date 


UNIVERSITY  of  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 
LIBRARY 


THE 

GARDEN    BEAUTIFUL 

IN    CALIFORNIA 


2 

A  PRACTICAL  MANUAL 

FOR  ALL  WHO  GARDEN 


ERNEST     BRAUNTON 

LANDSCAPE     DESIGNER 
AND       HORTICULTURIST 


CULTIVATOR    PUBLISHING   CO. 

LOS   ANGELES,    CAL. 

1915 


Copyright  1915 

by 
Cultivator  Publishing  Company 

and 
Ernest  Braunton 


S6 
453 


A  Poeft  Laureate's  AC&TO© 


T  IS  neither  wise,  nor  tender, 
nor  loving,  to  remit  to  others, 
however  expert,  the  supreme 
care  of  one's  garden.  You  will 
tend  yours  with  your  own 
hands,  and  discover  its  needs 
with  your  own  heart,  and  if,  in 
doing  so,  you  have  to  withdraw 
yourselves  sometimes,  more  than  accords 
with  modern  wont,  into  rural  seclusion,  your 
social  instincts  will  not  thereby  be  starved, 
nor  your  share  in  the  graces  and  charities 
of  life  thereby  be  curtailed.  You  will  find 
much  resemblance  between  flowers  and  hu- 
man beings,  for  they  too  grow  reserved  un- 
der coldness  or  mal-treatment,  and  respond 
with  almost  feminine  alacrity  to  every  sym- 
pathetic endeavor  to  apprehend  them." — 
Alfred  Austin. 


A    CALIFORNIA    GARDEN    SCENE 
Mission  Santa  Barbara 


T  HE 

GARDEN    BEAUTIFUL 

27^"3^ 

CHAPTER  I 

PLANNING  THE  PLACE 

Let  us  begin  our  garden  making  in  a  sympathetic 
spirit,  seeking  to  cultivate  contentment  and  peace  of 
mind  as  well  as  the  soil ;  to  love  plants  and  take  pleas- 
ure in  caring  for  them ;  to  find  relief  and  relaxation 
in  all  gardening  operations. 

Let  us  do  the  best  we  can  with  what  is  at  hand  or 
may  easily  be  found  nor  strive  for  the  spectacular 
nor  regard  our  work  as  a  task  or  as  a  weighty  prob- 
lem. In  short,  let  us  be  happy,  however  much  or  lit- 
tle we  may  do,  for  if  we  make  our  garden  beautiful 
we  shall  learn  to  love  it,  whether  our  efforts  be  con- 
fined to  the  care  of  a  window-box  or  lavished  upon 
broad  acres. 

Let  us  be  governed  by  a  desire  to  please  and  sat- 
isfy, not  alone  ourselves,  but  others ;  not  by  gaining 
unusual  or  unnatural  results,  but  by  making  all  so 
simple  and  homelike  that  every  visitor  will  enjoy 
the  quiet  restfulness  and  sufficiency  of  the  whole, 
the  charm  of  response  to  every  simple  and  natural 
desire.  Do  not  attempt  too  much.  Before  beginning 
the  plan — for  every  garden  should  have  a  plan  be- 
fore any  work  is  done — set  down  upon  paper  all  the 
things  you  feel  an  attractive  homelike  garden  should 
have. 

This  does  not  mean  a  list  of  the  plants  and  flowers 


8  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

you  wish — such  are  mere  incidentals — the  material 
with  which  you  build  and  finish  the  picture.  Begin 
with  fundamentals.  Lightly  sketch  where  paths  are 
needed,  and  have  none  you  do  not  need.  Provide 
for  comfort,  interest,  even  instruction.  Will  you 
have  an  arbor,  one  or  more  garden  seats,  a  gazing 
globe,  and  where?  Are  you  interested  in  sundials? 
If  so,  have  one  by  all  means,  for  there  is  no  place  on 
earth  where  the  sun  shines  more  than  in  California, 
and  therefore  we  may  make  more  use  of  them  than 
other  and  less  fortunate  peoples.  Our  mild  and 
equable  climate  allows  us  to  get  about  the  garden 
with  pleasure  nearly  every  day  throughout  the  year. 
Have  some  sort  of  a  water  garden,  even  if  no  more 
than  a  half-barrel  submerged  to  a  level  with  the 
garden  plane;  for  in  a  semiarid  land  having  few 
natural  streams,  ponds,  or  lakes,  an  aquatic  feature, 
however  tiny,  cannot  fail  to  attract  and  interest  and 
lend  strength  and  balance  to  the  landscape.  Uncon- 
sciously we  derive  a  certain  amount  of  comfort  from 
proximity  to  water,  for  of  all  natural  elements  it  is 
the  one  most  necessary  to  the  preservation  of  life 
and  health,  therefore  its  simple  presence  is  sooth- 
ing and  satisfying. 

WHAT  TO  AVOID 

Do  not  group  garden  accessories  and  conveniences 
too  closely  about  the  house,  for  every  house  has  at 
least  one  porch  built  for  use.  Therefore  place  seats, 
arbors,  etc.,  as  far  from  the  residence  as  is  conven- 
ient, for  then  you  avoid  any  suggestion  of  competi- 
tion. 

Likewise,  and  for  similar  reasons,  place  ponds, 
pools  and  rock  gardens  quite  remote.  The  house,  its 
interior  and  immediate  surroundings,  have,  or 
should  have,  charms  peculiarly  their  own,  and  each 


IN   CALIFORNIA  9 

part  of  the  garden  should  in  some  degree  rival  their 
attractions.  A  really  fundamental  or  basic  garden 
spirit  should  prevail  throughout  the  grounds  so  that 
visitors  as  well  as  yourself  will  feel  that  the  dwell- 


A  COVERED  GARDEN  SEAT 

ing  and  its  contents  are  not  the  only  permanent  at- 
tractions on  the  premises. 

Do  not  place  any  object  or  strive  for  an  effect 
merely  because  another  has  such  things.  Have  your 
garden  smack  of  originality.  If  you  have  elsewhere 
observed  something  you  desire  do  not  have  an  exact 
reproduction,  but  show  your  personal  taste  in  slight 
changes  and  modifications,  weaving  in  throughout 


10  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

the  whole  a  thread,  even  though  slight,  of  originality. 
In  all  phases  and  considerations,  even  in  the  choice 
of  trees,  shrubs,  vines,  etc.,  that  you  use,  please  your- 
self, yet  be  guided  by  the  experience  of  others  to  the 
extent  of  choosing  from  a  list  of  plants  known  to 
thrive  in  your  locality  or  under  similar  conditions. 
The  most  successful  garden  is  the  one  that  gives  its 
owner  the  greatest  pleasure  no  matter  what  he 
grows. 

WHAT  TO  GROW 

Begin  garden  planting  in  harmony  with  natural 
conditions  and  needs.  Grow  only  plants  that  are 
known  to  do  well  under  conditions  of  soil  and  climate 
comparable  with  those  obtaining  in  your  garden, 
more  particularly  trees  and  shrubs,  for  these  make 
the  foundation  and  framework  of  the  garden.  If 
you  indulge  in  a  few  novelties  or  tender  plants  in 
herbaceous  material,  they  are  but  incidentals,  and 
if  failure  results  the  garden  plan  is  not  interfered 
with,  for  the  fundamental  work  still  stands. 

Do  not  have  many  kinds  of  plants,  for  miscellane- 
ous mixtures  seriously  detract  from  the  restfulness, 
simplicity  and  dignity  of  the  garden.  If  you  have 
trial  grounds  for  experimental  planting  then  collec- 
tions of  many  kinds  are  desirable,  but  for  a  home 
garden  you  should  rather  have  many  of  a  kind.  In 
the  former  numerous  labels  are  a  necessity;  in  the 
home  garden  there  should  be  none.  Have  a  plan  of 
your  garden  on  paper;  note  thereon  the  position  of 
every  plant  by  number.  Jot  down  these  key  num- 
bers on  the  margin  of  the  plan,  on  a  separate  sheet, 
or,  better  still,  keep  a  garden  book  of  records.  After 
each  number  place  both  botanical  and  popular  name 
of  plant.  Then  labels  may  come  and  labels  may 
go,  but  the  records  remain  forever.  When  you  have 


IN   CALIFORNIA  11 

the  work  under  way  as  herein  outlined  and  have 
become  really  interested,  then  you  are  indeed  under 
the  magic  spell  of  the  true  garden  spirit,  the  per- 
fect peace  (for  the  time  being)  that  overcometh  all 
troubles  and  sorrows,  that  undefined  and  undefinable 
natural  charm  that  woos  and  wins  every  impres- 
sionable soul  seeking  to  build  the  garden  beautiful. 

LANDSCAPE  OR  NATURAL  GARDENING 
It  is  nearly  300  years  since  Francis  Bacon  said: 
"God  Almighty  first  planted  a  garden,  and  indeed  it 
is  the  purest  of  human  pleasures.  It  is  the  greatest 
refreshment  to  the  spirit  of  man,  without  which 
buildings  and  palaces  are  but  gross  handiworks ;  and 
a  man  shall  see  that  when  ages  grow  to  civility  and 
elegancy,  men  come  to  build  stately  sooner  than  to 
garden  finely,  as  if  gardening  were  the  greater  per- 
fection." 

There  are  but  three  styles  of  gardening  though 
there  are  many  types.  These  three  are :  Formal,  or 
architectural  gardening;  natural,  or  landscape  gar- 
dening; and  picturesque  gardening;  the  last  but  a 
blending  or  combination  of  the  other  two,  which  are 
after  all  the  only  distinct  styles  universally  recog- 
nized. It  is  the  natural  or  landscape  gardening  that 
we  deal  with  mainly,  incorporating  only  so  much  of 
the  formal  as  the  problem  under  consideration  seems 
to  require.  In  landscape  gardening  we  are  governed 
by  many  rules,  of  which  but  three  are  really  funda- 
mental, the  others  being  subsidiary,  though  all  are 
dictated  by  nature.  These  three  are  in  the  order  of 
importance :  Preserve  open  lawn  centers ;  plant  in 
masses  and  not  isolated;  avoid  straight  lines.  A 
brief  explanation  of  each  rule  is  here  given. 


12  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

PRESERVE  OPEN  LAWN  CENTERS 

A  front  yard  cluttered  up  with  trees  and  shrubs  is 
never  attractive.  The  simpler  picture  is  the  stronger 
one.  The  lawn  should  be  left  as  large  and  as  unob- 
structed as  possible.  Many  planters,  having  at  their 
disposal  but  a  small  front  lawn,  usually  (and  unfor- 
tunately) bisected  by  a  cement  walk  to  the  front 
door,  feel  it  incumbent  upon  them  to  completely  fill 
the  two  limited  areas  by  planting  some  large-grow- 
ing palms,  or  other  trees,  usually  two  Phoenix  Cana- 
riensis.  Having  thus  planted  it  is  quite  impossible 
to  stand  in  the  center  of  your  landscape  and  see 
about  you,  as  you  should  be  able  to  do,  a  fine  variety 
of  plant  life. 

Those  who  have  lived  in  the  Mississippi  Valley  or 
in  states  farther  east  will  doubtless  recall  seeing  lit- 
tle openings  or  natural  clearings  in  the  woods,  con- 
sisting of  one  or  many  acres.  Though  in  the  midst 
of  the  forest,  the  floor  or  greensward  remains  invio- 
late, not  a  tree  or  shrub  upon  it.  Grass  and  herba- 
ceous flowering  plants  form  the  cover  or  carpet; 
bushes  and  larger  shrubs  edge  it  about;  next  small 
trees;  and  then  the  forest  giants  frame  the  whole, 
making  a  perfect  amphitheater;  a  miniature  land- 
scape, perhaps,  yet  complete  in  every  detail.  Then 
may  the  joyous  discoverer  stand  in  the  center  and  see 
all  about  him  the  varied  wonders  of  the  local  native 
vegetation.  Many  a  time  and  oft,  in  boyhood's 
happy  days,  has  the  author  been  overjoyed  with  the 
finding  of  such  beauty  spots  and  stood  spellbound 
and  awed  by  the  overwhelming  attractiveness  of  the 
scene.  Would  that  puny  man  could  build  gardens  of 
equal  charm ! 

Allow  your  lawn  centers  to  remain  open  and  clear 
that  the  whole  yard  may  appear  as  large  as  possible ; 


IN   CALIFORNIA 


13 


AN  IDEAL  PLAN— FOOTPATH  ONLY 


14  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

generous,  yet  well  and  fittingly  framed  with  plants, 
shrubs,  and  trees  on  all  sides.  If  you  must  have  a 
large,  spreading  palm  on  a  small  lot,  place  it  at  the 
side  of  the  house,  well  toward  the  rear,  or,  better 
still,  in  the  back  yard  where  it  may  also  serve  as  a 
shade  tree.  Yet  even  there  the  same  rules  properly 
should  obtain  that  govern  the  planting  in  front. 
Better  to  use  fan  palms,  if  you  must  have  palms,  or 
plant  the  more  beautiful  Cocos  plumosa,  of  which 
we  have  some  hardy  varieties.  Avoid,  if  possible, 
cutting  your  front  lawn  in  two  equal  parts  unless 
a  purely  formal  effect  is  desired.  Rather  have  the 
front  walk  well  to  one  side  and  thus  gain  a  larger 
single  lawn.  This  procedure  will  also  allow  a  grace- 
ful, sweeping  curve  in  the  approach  to  the  front 
entrance,  a  pleasing  variation  from  the  usual  inar- 
tistic straight-from-gate-to-door  plan. 

PLANT  IN  MASSES 

Plant  in  masses  and  not  in  isolated  specimens 
dotted  about  here  and  there;  group  instead  of  scat- 
tering. Orchards  are  systematically  planted  for 
economic  reasons,  giving  each  tree  a  like  amount  of 
space.  This  insures  uniformity  of  growth  and  bear- 
ing and  ease  and  economy  in  cultivation,  irrigation 
and  harvesting.  No  such  considerations  govern  the 
planting  of  ornamentals.  On  the  contrary,  art,  with 
a  due  regard  for  utility,  is  the  inspiration  of  the 
landscape  designer.  Therefore,  have  tree  and  shrub- 
bery masses  irregular  in  outline,  in  gently-flowing 
curves,  not  abrupt,  nor  yet  in  straight  lines. 

Trees,  shrubs  and  lowly  plants  should  be  grouped, 
each  kind  by  itself,  for  nature  so  disposes  them,  and 
we  should  aim  to  copy  nature.  In  this  way  you  will 
not  only  get  artistic  and  natural  effects,  but  also 
decided  character,  for  planted  in  this  manner  every 


IN   CALIFORNIA 


15 


AN  IDEAL  PLAN   WITH  DRIVE 


16 


THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 


part  of  the  garden  stands  for  one  thing,  and  one 
only,  and  there  are  no  duplications  in  plan  or  plant- 
ing. There- 
fore, every 
step  forward 
marks  an  ad- 
vance into 
something 
new,  and 
from  one  end 
to  the  other 
"no  scene  is 
twice  seen," 
nor  anything 
either  in  ma- 
terial or  ef- 
fectmetwith 
a  second 
time.  It 
would  nei- 
ther be  prop- 
er, nor  pleas- 
ing, to  find 
roses  and 
carnations, 
or  pines  and 
acacias  scat- 
tered thr'gh- 
out  the  gar- 
den, for  all 
parts  would 
then  contain 
similar  ef- 

THIS  ILLUSTRATION  SHOWS  HOW  A  CITY          u 

LOT  MAY  BE  LAID  OUT  TO  CONFORM         character. 

WITH  ALL  THE  RULES  OF  LAND- 
SCAPE GARDENING 


IN   CALIFORNIA  17 

be  no  incentive  or  stimulus  for  a  walk  about  a  gar- 
den where  one  glance  at  any  part  would  suffice  to 
show  the  plants  and  their  disposition  obtaining  in 
all  parts.  Some  of  the  finest  examples  of  beauty  in 
arrangement  may  be  observed  in  the  shrubbery 
masses  on  shaded  hillsides  in  the  wilds. 

AVOID  STRAIGHT  LINES 

Nature  makes  no  straight  lines;  for  whether  it 
be  the  canopy  above,  the  horizon  about  us,  the  shore 
of  ocean  or  lake,  the  course  of  streams,  the  lines  of 
a  horse,  bird,  or  other  animal,  beautiful  curves,  in 
variety,  everywhere  abound.  Without  some  specific 
guide,  such  as  a  taut  cord  or  a  straight-edge,  man 
cannot  make  a  straight  line.  It  must  then  be  appar- 
ent that  nature  never  expected  he  should  try. 

Those  who  have  trampled  over  freshly  fallen  snow, 
though  intent  upon  going  in  a  straight  line  from  one 
point  to  another,  may  easily  descry,  by  looking  back- 
ward upon  their  course,  the  most  beautiful  and 
smoothly-flowing  curves  traced  upon  earth's  other- 
wise spotless  mantle.  Even  the  paths  of  wild  or 
domestic  animals  are  of  most  artistic  and  gentle 
departure  from  the  monotonous  straight  line. 

Nevertheless,  we  should  not  violate  the  dictates 
of  common  sense  by  instituting  a  curve  or  curves  in 
a  walk  but  a  few  paces  long.  Curves  should  not  be 
made  that  would  subject  the  maker  to  ridicule,  yet 
they  are,  otherwise,  always  permissible,  and  advis- 
able, if  it  is  possible  to  have  them  without  showing 
a  strained  effect  or  too  great  abruptness.  If  it  is 
found  advisable  or  necessary  to  make  a  short  or 
sharp  curve,  plant  in  the  "bay"  a  large  shrub  or 
tree,  or  a  group  or  object  of  a  large  and  permanent 
nature,  made  to  appear  as  though  present  before  the 
path  and  therefore  making  the  curve  a  necessity  in 


18  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

order  to  get  around  this  previously  occupied  point. 
GENERAL  ADVICE 

Assuming  that  the  garden  plat,  or  at  least  the  part 
immediately  about  the  residence,  is  fairly  level,  the 
surface  should  be  so  graded,  if  possible,  that  water 
will  drain  from  the  house  toward  all  points  of  the 
compass.  The  soil  for  this  purpose  may  usually  be 
taken  from  near  the  outer  boundaries,  or,  better  still, 
from  an  excavation  for  a  pond,  something  without 
which  no  large  orderly  garden  is  complete.  If  you 
have  plenty  of  soil  the  lawns  may  be  filled  up  in  and 
about  the  center  to  give  a  rounded  appearance,  for 
natural  lawns  are  seldom  or  never  smooth  and  flat. 
The  surface  should  also  drain  slightly  toward  the 
pond  site  so  that  the  presence  of  water  there  will 
appear  natural,  being  in  a  depression. 

In  rebuilding  a  garden  turn  under  a  liberal 
supply  of  stable  manure  over  the  entire  area.  If 
any  large  trees  or  shrubs  are  in  the  way,  leave  them 
if  it  can  be  done  without  too  great  a  sacrifice  and 
make  the  subsequent  or  new  planting  conform  so 
far  as  possible.  Place  the  pond,  if  you  are  to  have 
one,  so  it  will  not  be  shaded  by  buildings,  trees  or 
other  large  objects;  for  aquatic  life,  either  animal 
or  vegetable,  does  not  succeed  in  shade.  Planting 
at  the  waterside  should  be  confined  to  the  north  side 
and  northerly  corners.  At  all  other  points  keep 
large  plants  farther  away  to  allow  of  unobstructed 
sunshine  on  the  water  throughout  the  day. 

The  garden  should  be  enclosed  on  sides  and  back 
with  a  wall,  hedge,  or  vine-covered  fence.  Along 
the  front  it  is  more  a  matter  of  taste,  though  if  the 
property  belonged  to  the  author  the  fence  or  hedge 
should  inclose  it  on  all  sides ;  low  on  front  and  sides 
to  rear  of  house,  and  much  higher  around  the  back 


IN  CALIFORNIA  19 

yard.  Better  still  would  be  a  low  wall  along  the 
front  and  sides,  rising  to  a  greater  height  opposite 
the  rear  corners  of  the  residence. 

Aside  from  providing  privacy,  snugness,  and  se- 
clusion, such  inclosure  will  keep  out  would-be  in- 
truders, dogs,  paper,  leaves  and  other  wind-blown 
rubbish,  and  catch  and  hold  much  of  the  dust  which 
otherwise  would  reach  the  house.  It  also  allows  the 
garden  to  be  finished  right  out  to  the  edge,  which 
it  could  not  be  were  it  not  divided  from  surrounding 
property.  If  the  lot  is  deep  the  back  yard  may  be 
cut  off  by  a  hedge,  but  if  this  is  done  put  it  as  far 
back  as  possible  and  as  low  as  its  purpose  will 
allow,  for  a  large  yard  is  indicative  of  good  taste, 
liberal  ideas,  generosity  and  good-fellowship.  The 
landscape  possibilities,  too,  are  much  greater,  and 
the  general  effect  more  impressive,  without  division. 

FORMAL  GARDENS 

If  a  formal,  Italian,  Japanese  or  other  style  of 
garden  is  to  be  incorporated  in  the  plan  of  a  large 
landscape,  it  should  be  set  off  by  a  wall,  hedge,  or 
fence,  so  as  not  to  be  brought  into  contrast  with  the 
larger  and  more  natural  prospect  or  outlook.  For- 
mal or  architectural  gardens  should  be  built  close 
to  the  dwelling  so  that  all  architectural  effects  are 
kept  together. 

UTILITY  PLATS 

Utility  areas  should  also  be  screened  from  the 
main  prospect,  for  clotheslines,  ash  barrels,  wood- 
piles, compost  heaps  and  rubbish  piles  must  not  be 
in  view  of  visitors  to  the  pleasure  garden.  It  is 
often  possible  to  use  pergolas  to  connect  two  separate 
or  distinct  parts  of  a  garden  and  also  have  them  as 
a  shield  to  obscure  undesirable  features  or  acces- 


20 


THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 


series,  but  never  erect  a  pergola  unless  its  purpose 
is  apparent  to  even  the  casual  observer.  In  no  other 
way  do  Californians  so  often  violate  good  taste  in 


A  CLASSIC  PERGOLA 

garden  building  as  by  the  erection  of  purposeless 
pergolas. 

THE  BACK  YARD 

The  back  yard  should  be  attractive,  interesting, 
and  far  more  homelike  and  comfortable  than  the 
front  yard.  The  same  rules  of  planning  should 


IN   CALIFORNIA  21 

apply,  but  they  need  not  be  so  closely  observed.  The 
back  yard  should  be  largely  a  "family  affair."  If 
there  is  insufficient  room  at  the  side  of  the  house,  to- 
ward the  rear,  for  tennis  court  or  croquet  grounds, 
where  these  are  desired,  the  back  yard  is  the  proper 
place  for  them. 

Here  is  the  part  upon  which  to  lavish  your  homely 
affections.  Have  a  place  in  which  to  swing  a  ham- 
mock and  have  at  least  one  arbor  or  covered  seat  or 
a  playhouse  for  the  children,  and  if  there  is  sufficient 
room,  have  them  all,  and  more.  Here  arbors  may 
be  covered  with  grapes  or  other  vines  of  economic 
value.  The  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs  may  be  of 
orange,  loquat,  avocado,  guava,  carissa  and  others 
bearing  edible  crops.  The  herbs  may  be  artichoke, 
rhubarb  and  parsley.  In  the  borders  may  be  all 
sorts  of  vegetables  in  clumps  and  patches;  still  it 
may  conform  more  or  less  to  the  first  rule  of  land- 
scaping— preserve  open  centers. 

At  the  extreme  rear  should  be  the  chief  back- 
ground of  the  whole  picture,  a  background  of  some 
solidarity,  whether  of  fruit  trees  or  a  tangled  mass 
of  vines  over  a  tall  fence.  If  at  the  south  end  of 
the  premises  the  taller  shade  trees  may  be  used, 
planted  for  ornament,  yet  where  their  shade  may 
contribute  to  the  comfort  of  the  household.  It  may 
be  that  a  lawn  is  desirable  even  though  it  prove  a 
bleaching  ground  for  the  family  washing  and  is  cen- 
tered by  a  revolving  clothes  dryer.  If  grass  is 
thought  to  involve  too  much  labor  in  caretaking  or 
too  much  dampness  through  watering,  here  is  a 
chance  for  lippia,  which  needs  no  summer  watering, 
and  the  more  it  is  trod  upon  the  better  it  will  qualify 
as  a  mere  soil  cover  to  protect  all  from  either  dust 
or  mud,  or  both.  If  ash  and  garbage  cans,  compost 


22  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

heaps,  or  hotbeds  are  necessary  or  advisable,  screen 
them  off  from  the  general  view  by  means  of  shrubs 
or  vine-covered  trellises,  but  do  not  give  up  making 
the  back  yard  interesting  and  attractive  for  the  rea- 
son that  these  things  are  present.  Recognize  utility, 
but  do  not  banish  order,  comfort  and  all  display  of 
artistic  effects. 

UTILITY  SHOULD  GOVERN. 

So  far  as  regards  approaches  and  walks  to  and 
from  buildings,  the  object  of  their  introduction  is 
sufficiently  apparent;  but,  in  laying  out  pleasure 
grounds,  it  is  a  too  common  practice  to  introduce 
walks  for  the  mere  purpose  of  variety.  This  is  a 
very  questionable  reason  at  best,  and  not  always 
successfully  accomplished ;  but  even  in  cases  of  this 
kind,  they  should  appear  to  aim  for  some  definite 
object,  or  lead  to  points  of  sufficient  importance  to 
suggest  their  utility.  The  guiding  principle  in  de- 
signing the  position  of  roads  and  walks  should  be 
utility.  Nature  forms  no  roads.  They  are  the 
works  of  men  and  animals,  and  would  undoubtedly 
always  proceed  in  nearly  straight  lines  from  point 
to  point,  if  obstructions  of  various  kinds  did  not 
interfere  and  cause  deviations.  Necessity  will  there- 
fore suggest  where  and  how  they  should  be  intro- 
duced. 


1.     NATIVE  STRAWBERRY  LAWN,  Fragaria  Chiloensis 
2.     BACKYARD  LAWN,  Lippia  canescens 


CHAPTER  II 

LAWNS  AND  SOIL  COVERS 

The  work  of  making  a  fine  greensward  is  the  most 
particular  piece  of  handicraft  in  the  garden,  for  it 
is  the  actual  foundation  and  will  never  present  a 
smoother  or  more  even  surface  than  the  day  it  is 
sown. 

Slight  inequalities  of  surface  will  become  more 
pronounced  with  time;  soft  spots  will  settle,  while 
hard  places  will  always  remain  the  highest.  Lawn 
surfaces  should  therefore  be  made  as  smooth  and 
even  as  possible;  mistakes  can  be  remedied  only  by 
taking  up  the  sod  and  making  the  lawn  over.  In 
England  they  say  it  takes  a  hundred  years  to  make 
a  good  lawn,  and  one  eastern  coast  writer  says: 
"Four  things  are  required  to  make  a  good  lawn; 
time,  soil,  climate  and  intelligent  labor."  Neither 
expression  fits  California,  for  we  do  not  need  time, 
as  it  is  understood  east  of  the  Rockies. 

The  greensward  is  the  one  permanent  feature  of 
a  yard ;  therefore,  let  us  have  the  very  best  obtain- 
able. Our  flower  beds  may  be  moved  or  the  plants 
in  other  parts  of  the  garden  changed  every  year, 
but  we  expect  the  lawn  to  remain  ever  the  same. 
One  of  the  first  essentials  for  a  lawn  is  good  soil. 
Many  complain  that  they  have  black  adobe  and  "it 
is  so  hard  to  do  anything  with,"  but  it  is  the  best 
medium  in  which  to  grow  a  fine  lawn,  even  as  sand 
is  the  poorest.  In  enriching  the  soil  it  is  well  to 
understand  that  it  cannot  be  made  too  rich  for  blue 
grass.  After  one  gets  the  surface  in  proper  condi- 


24  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

tion,  the  sowing  and  after  care  cannot  be  too  care- 
fully attended  to ;  it  is  a  job  worthy  of  a  first-class 
lawnmaker,  and  no  one  who  can  afford  to  hire  help 
should  attempt  his  own  lawnmaking. 

MAKING  THE  LAWN 

Close  observation  for  a  score  of  years  has  con- 
vinced the  writer  that  for  California  in  general  soil 
prepared  in  March  and  sown  early  in  April  will 
result  in  giving  us  the  best  of  lawns,  varying  the 
time  according  to  season  and  prevailing  tempera- 
tures in  your  section.  Autumn  lawnmaking  is  usual- 
ly attended  with  an  equal  degree  of  success,  but  in 
cold  sections  the  young  grass  is  often  caught  "in 
the  milk"  stage  by  severe  frosts  and  sometimes 
killed,  though  to  offset  such  risk  the  season  offers 
the  welcome  rains, -for  spring-sown  lawns  necessi- 
tate careful  artificial  sprinkling. 

The  first  work  should  be  a  deep  and  thorough  stir- 
ring of  the  soil,  without  which  no  crop  will  grow, 
whether  it  be  grass  or  trees.  When  stirring  the 
soil  mix  in  a  liberal  amount  of  well-rotted  stable 
manure  (four  inches  is  not  too  much)  and  do  not 
be  content  with  merely  turning  it  under  where  it 
will  lie  in  chunks  for  years  to  come.  The  full  value 
of  fertilizers  comes  only  from  thorough  incorpora- 
tion with  the  soil.  Gardeners  too  often  turn  under 
raw  bone  meal  and  leave  it,  a  handful  in  a  place. 
Used  in  this  way  it  does  not  all  become  available 
to  plant  life  for  several  years.  It  should  be  evenly 
scattered  and  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  soil  and 
even  then  it  is  largely  fertilizing  for  future  years. 

Stable  manures,  while  more  readily  available  to 
the  plant  at  any  stage,  should  undergo  the  same 
thorough  incorporation,  for  after  a  lawn  is  once 
sown  you  cannot  get  under  it  to  stir  the  soil  except 


IN   CALIFORNIA  25 

at  the  added  expense  of  a  new  lawn.  Nearly  all 
fertilizer  works  make  a  special  fertilizer  for  this 
preliminary  use,  which  has  the  advantage  of  contain- 
ing no  seeds  of  weeds  or  Bermuda  grass,  which  often 
prove  before  eradicated  more  expensive  than  all 
other  work  connected  with  the  making  of  new  lawns. 

Superphosphate. 


Lime.  f^^^.S&IR^*11**^,-  Thomas  slag 


Ammonium  sulphate. ^^MT^.  X   X    X    XH*^3W.  Barnyard  manure 

and  guano. 


Lime  nitrogen  (qal- 
cium  cyanamtd). 


Potash  salts. 


Nitrateof  Wda.  ^J^=- -^CT Bone  mea, 

INCOMPATIBLES   IN   FERTILIZER   MIXTURES 

The  danger  of  indiscriminate  mixing  of  fertilizers  is  shown  in  the 
accompanying  diagram  taken  from  Farmers'  Bulletin  388.  Some 
materials  may  be  mixed  with  beneficial  results,  others  not.  The  dia- 
gram indicates  what  fertilizer  materials  may  not  be  safely  mixed.  The 
dark  lines  unite  materials  which  should  never  be  mixed,  the  double 
lines  those  which  should  be  applied  immediately  after  mixing,  and  the 
single  lines  those  which  may  be  mixed  at  any  time. 

Because  of  such  seeds  being  present,  all  stable  ma- 
nures should  be  thoroughly  rotted.  Never  use  fresh 
or  unseasoned  manure  in  lawn  work  if  avoidable 
either  before  or  after  sowing  or  for  fertilizing  old 
lawns. 

After  fertilizing  and  spading  let  the  soil  rest  until 
dry  enough  to  work,  then  tread  carefully  over  every 


26  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

foot  of  it  with  your  feet  close  together.  This  is  not 
much  of  a  job  on  small  lawns.  On  large  lawns  a 
roller  is  used,  but  this  does  not  find  the  small  soft 
spots  as  well  as  your  feet,  and  sufficient  time  may 
be  spent  on  a  small  lawn  to  do  the  work  properly. 
This  treading  will  insure  an  even  surface  and  no 
future  settling.  Next  rake  the  low  spots  full  of  soil 
and  make  firm,  leaving  the  surface  just  as  smooth 
as  a  floor  if  possible,  for  as  you  leave  it  so  will  it 
always  remain.  See  that  the  surface  soil  is  pul- 
verized as  finely  as  possible.  If  the  surface  is  dry 
when  you  wish  to  sow  the  seed,  give  it  a  very  light 
sprinkling  of  water  and  wait  an  hour  or  two  for  it 
to  get  past  the  sticky  stage  and  then  sow  the  seed. 
Sow  very  early  or  very  late  in  the  day,  if  in  a  windy 
section,  as  perfect  calm  is  needed  for  proper  dis- 
tribution of  the  light  grass  seed. 

Begin  sowing  at  the  rear,  using  boards  to  walk 
on  as  you  "retreat  forward,"  for  after  the  surface 
is  ready  for  sowing  you  must  not  set  foot  upon  it 
until  the  first  mowing,  and  even  this  is  best  done 
from  boards.  After  sowing  the  seed  and  raking  it 
in,  lightly  and  gently,  sow  over  the  surface  an  inch 
or  so  of  well-rotted  manure  which  has  been  sifted 
through  a  sieve  of  not  more  than  one  inch  mesh. 
Planing-mill  shavings  will  also  do,  but  they  should 
be  thoroughly  wetted  a  few  days  in  advance  of  use. 
After  this  give  the  lawn  a  good  but  very  careful 
watering. 

This  first  watering,  as  well  as  subsequent  ones, 
must  be  given  with  extreme  care  and  the  water  uni- 
formly distributed  in  a  fine  spray  so  seeds  will  not 
be  washed  about  or  little  channels  made  in  the  soil 
covering  or  in  the  surface  soil  itself.  As  soon  as 
weeds  are  large  enough  to  pull,  get  boards  to  kneel 


IN  CALIFORNIA  27 

on  and  weed  the  grass  or  whatever  soil  cover  you 
have  sown.  Better  use  two  wide  boards,  one  to  kneel 
on  and  the  other  for  your  feet,  or  the  toes  of  your 
shoes  will  spoil  much  new  lawn. 

When  the  young  grass  becomes  tall  enough  to 
make  the  least  cutting  possible,  get  at  it  with  a  sharp 
mower  and  cut  thereafter  as  often  as  growth  makes 
it  possible,  for  only  by  so  doing  will  you  quickly  get 
a  perfect  carpet  of  living  green.  Either  mow  the 
first  time  from  boards  or  tread  very  carefully  flat- 
footed  while  doing  the  work  or  you  will  either 
seriously  tear  up  the  surface  or  make  it  full  of  ugly 
indentations.  To  overcome  this  trouble  it  is  advis- 
able to  roll  the  new  lawn  several  times  with  a  light 
roller  just  as  soon  as  the  grass  is  well  up ;  certainly 
not  later  than  immediately  after  the  first  mowing. 
One  pound  of  blue  grass  seed  will  sow  200  square 
feet,  or  an  area  of  10x20  feet.  One  pound  of  white 
clover  seed  will  sow  300  square  feet,  or  an  area  of 
10x30  feet. 

CARE  OF  LAWNS 

During  even  the  hottest  weather  the  average 
lawn  is  injudiciously  watered.  Few  home  owners 
begin  the  care  of  lawns  properly  or  methodically. 
From  the  time  the  young  grass  appears  the  inch  or 
two  of  top  soil  is  given  light  sprinklings  daily,  with 
the  result  that  all  roots  remain  near  the  surface. 
If  such  a  lawn  goes  unsprinkled  for  even  one  day 
during  hot  weather,  it  shows  distress.  After  a  lawn 
is  well  established  water  only  when  the  grass  needs 
it  and  then  do  it  most  thoroughly.  Then,  when  the 
surface  supply  is  exhausted,  the  roots  will  go  down 
into  the  moist  subsoil  in  search  of  water.  So  treated 
the  grass  will  finally  reach  such  a  condition  that  if 


28  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

left  unwatered  for  a  few  days,  or  even  a  week,  it  will 
not  suffer  permanent  harm. 

Lawns  should  be  cut  frequently  during  hot  weath- 
er, about  once  a  week,  for  the  reason  that  it  is  advis- 
able to  make  the  least  possible  change  in  general 
exposure.  If  left  until  very  long  and  then  closely 
cut  it  will  suffer  from  sunburn  in  both  blade  and 
root.  Do  not  needlessly  expose  the  roots  to  the  sum- 
mer's sun;  therefore,  during  the  hottest  weather 
keep  the  cutter  high,  leaving  the  grass  rather  long 
throughout  the  season,  but  mow  frequently,  allowing 
the  short  clippings  to  fall  down  among  the  standing 
blades  to  form  a  mulch  for  the  roots.  If  the  cut 
grass  mildews  or  moulds,  as  it  may  during  cool  or 
cloudy  weather,  it  may  be  raked  off  and  subsequent 
cuttings  caught  in  a  hopper,  but  with  the  return  of 
sunshine  remove  the  hopper  and  allow  the  mulch  to 
re-form. 

LAWN  GRASSES 

All  keen  observers  will  agree  that  the  fine  tex- 
ture, rich  green  color  and  smooth  even  growth  of 
Poa  pratensis,  the  Kentucky  blue  grass,  prove  it  to 
be  more  desirable  as  a  ground  cover  than  any  other 
known,  and  it  should  be  used  wherever  conditions 
are  favorable  to  establishment  and  maintenance  of 
lawn  grass.  The  most  closely  similar  species 
is  P.  arachnifera,  a  Texan  species.  A  sub- 
stitute, used  in  cheap  mixtures,  is  P.  compressa, 
the  Canadian  blue  grass.  The  latter  is  flatter,  more 
wiry  and  bluer  than  Kentucky  grass  and  is  good  on 
dry  sand,  clay,  or  poor  soils  where  the  others  do  not 
thrive.  P.  nemoralis,  the  wood  meadow  grass,  is 
good  for  shady  places  in  woodlands,  yet  resistant  to 
heat.  In  the  Eastern  states  Agrostis  canina,  the 
Rhode  Island  bent  grass,  makes  a  fine  close  turf  of 


IN  CALIFORNIA  29 

good  color  on  sandy  seasides  and  should  thrive  in 
California.  Eastward  they  also  have  a  "beach" 
grass  known  to  dealers  and  botanists  as  Ammophila 
arenaria,  or  arundinacea,  that  is  successfully  used 
on  seacoast  embankments  to  hold  dry,  loose  soils  and 
drifting  sands.  In  California  the  Australian  rye 
grass  is  much  used  for  shady  places  and  for  lawns 
where  less  care  and  water  can  be  given — a  lazy 
man's  grass,  but  inferior  to  Kentucky  blue  grass. 

WHITE  OR  DUTCH  CLOVER 

White  or  Dutch  clover  is  often  used  to  mix  with 
blue  grass  in  lawns.  The  clover  seed,  being  much 
heavier,  should  be  sown  separately  and  in  quantity 
about  one-fourth.  Clover  is  also  excellent  for  con- 
trol of  Bermuda  grass.  Many  prefer  a  lawn  wholly 
of  white  clover,  and  if  so,  a  pound  of  seed  will  sow 
very  nearly  twice  the  area  that  a  pound  of  grass  seed 
will.  It  thrives  with  less  water  and  is  superior  to 
Kentucky  grass  for  sandy  soils  and  also  does  better 
close  to  the  ocean  where  it  requires  still  less  water 
than  it  does  inland. 

Prof.  E.  J.  Wickson  says  that  clover  is  favorably 
regarded  by  him  for  the  reason  that  it  is  more  ten- 
der than  grass  and  therefore  more  easily  cut  with  a 
dull  lawn  mower,  a  type  of  machine  he  claims  to 
have  constantly  and  permanently  on  hand,  though 
boasting  of  no  exclusiveness  in  the  ownership  of 
such  equipment. 

Clover  lawns  usually  need  inoculation  with  nitri- 
fying bacteria.  There  are  several  ways  of  getting 
this.  The  most  primitive,  most  troublesome,  yet 
most  effective  way  is  to  get  soil  from  a  very  healthy, 
vigorous  growth  of  clover  and  scatter  it  over  the 
new  or  sick  clover  lawn  and  wash  it  in  with  water. 
This  is  easy  if  you  know  such  a  lawn  that  you  can 


30  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

disturb  to  obtain  a  quart  or  so  of  surface  soil.  The 
easier  way  is  to  buy  a  small  amount  of  some  com- 
mercial preparation  from  a  seed  store.  These  are 
effective  and  simply  applied.  All  clover  lawns  should 
be  so  treated  if  the  growth  is  weakly  or  of  poor  color. 

LIPPIA  CANESCENS 

In  many  sections  Lippia  canescens,  distributed  in 
California  as  L.  repens,  is  rapidly  forcing  out  all 
other  plants  used  for  lawn  making,  yet  people  in 
semiarid  sections  or  where  the  water  supply  is 
limited  continue  to  struggle  with  blue  grass.  Lippia 
is  no  doubt  the  most  drouth  resistant  plant  we  have 
in  our  gardens  and  should  be  treated  accordingly. 
That  it  will  stand  any  California  conditions  is  evi- 
dent from  the  following  extract  from  the  annual 
report  of  the  Arizona  Experiment  Station : 

"The  fog-fruit  has  again  proved  its  superior  qual- 
ities as  a  lawn  plant,  since  during  the  past  summer 
it  was  able  to  endure  all  ordinary  drouth  conditions 
without  harm,  also  maintaining  itself  for  eight 
months  on  the  mesa  with  less  than  two  inches  of 
rainfall.  When  grown  side  by  side  with  Bermuda 
grass  it  proved  superior  in  every  respect.  To  secure 
the  quickest  as  well  as  the  most  satisfactory  results 
on  the  lawn,  the  soil  should  be  spaded,  mixed  with 
well-rotted  manure,  and  the  plants  freely  watered. 
During  the  present  summer  the  lawns  of  lippia  along 
Third  Street,  Tucson,  planted  in  ordinary  mesa  soil 
and  exposed  to  our  intense  conditions,  have  pre- 
served a  carpet  of  green  which  has  often  been  beau- 
tifully variegated  with  the  rose  purple  blossoms." 

Every  year  adds  to  the  reputation  of  lippia  for 
lawn  purposes  under  conditions  unfavorable  to 
grass,  for  it  may  be  found  thriving  in  almost  all 
soils  and  in  as  varied  locations.  For  those  who  wish 


IN   CALIFORNIA  31 

a  lawn  at  the  seaside  nothing  will  equal  it  as  a 
ground  cover.  No  one  who  has  taken  note  of  it  on 
the  Coronado  Hotel  grounds  would  bother  with  any 
other  plant  for  lawns  of  great  extent  near  the  ocean 
front  or  on  sands  of  this  nature.  It  is  the  only  plant 
that  could  be  used  to  effectively  hold  the  loose  soil 
there  and  preserve  a  perfect  carpet  over  the  whole. 
Intending  planters  should  remember  that  seeds  can- 
not be  procured,  cuttings  must  be  used  to  establish 
a  growth.  It  also  is  not  hardy  enough  to  endure 
freezing  weather,  being  native  to  the  tropics. 

TERRACE  COVERINGS 

A  great  diversity  of  opinion  prevails  as  to  what 
is  the  most  effective  covering  for  banks  and  terraces, 
both  as  regards  appearances  and  soil-staying  quali- 
ties. Some  prefer  roses  like  Wichuriana  or  Chero- 
kee, but  if  the  soil  be  friable,  too  much  of  it  is 
washed  away  before  the  vines  form  a  ground  cover. 
To  prevent  washing  from  excessive  watering  it  is 
best,  above  each  plant,  to  set  in  the  soil  an  ordinary 
fruit  or  tomato  can  with  several  nail  holes  punctur- 
ing the  bottom.  These  may  quickly  be  filled  from  a 
hose  and  allowed  to  remain  permanently,  for  in  time 
the  vines  will  cover  them  and  they  will  still  catch  a 
goodly  share  of  the  falling  water  and  allow  it  to 
slowly  percolate  into  the  soil  about  the  plant  roots. 
If  either  of  the  roses  mentioned  is  used,  it  is  best 
to  encourage  growth  in  all  directions  and  peg  down 
every  foot  or  two  feet  of  stem.  A  still  better  way 
perhaps  is  to  layer  it.  Scratch  out  narrow  slots  in 
the  earth  a  foot  or  more  apart  along  the  growing 
stem,  push  the  stem  down  into  these  places  and  pack 
soil  solidly  on  top.  In  time  the  points  of  contact 
with  the  ground  will  take  root  and  do  much  toward 
making  a  solid,  soil-staying  bank  covering. 


32  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

Others  prefer  the  fine-leafed  ice  plant,  Mesembry- 
anthemum  densum,  but  it  is  not  a  soil  binder,  merely 
a  cover  that  does  not  root  except  at  one  point,  the 
main  stem  of  the  plant.  The  stems  spread  out  in 
every  direction  for  several  feet,  so  that  a  bank  eight 
feet  high  may  easily  be  covered  by  plants  set  on  the 
top  level.  Unless  the  soil  beneath  is  very  solid,  al- 
most rock,  it  will  eventually  by  erosion  wash  into 
gutters  which  each  year  become  deeper  until  one  is 
surprised  by  an  extensive  and  wholly  unsuspected 
landslide.  This  ice  plant  blossoms  most  profusely, 
but  the  color  is  not  a  pleasing  one,  though  there  are 
several  larger  leaved  species  with  flowers  in  other 
shades  and  colors. 

Lippia  canescens  is  a  soil  binder  in  the  strictest 
sense  of  the  word,  rooting  at  every  node  or  joint,  and 
these  are  but  two  to  four  inches  apart.  Because  of 
this  frequent  rooting  lippia  makes  a  very  good  bank 
cover  and  is  each  year  receiving  wider  recognition 
for  this  purpose.  It  is  not  necessary  to  mow  or  cut 
it,  for  the  plant  is  of  prostrate  habit,  and  with  all 
the  encouragement  we  may  give  it  the  result  is  a 
thick  mat  but  three  inches  deep  which  will  overhang 
walls  for  several  feet  without  supporting  soil  as 
readily  as  will  the  ice  plant.  In  rather  cold  locali- 
ties the  color  becomes  very  dull  in  winter,  and  the 
plant  is  occasionally  somewhat  damaged  by  frost, 
often  dropping  its  leaves,  to  be  renewed  in  warmer 
weather. 

A  prostrate  juniper,  English  ivy,  the  "myrtle," 
or  vinca,  common  in  other  states,  a  native  beach 
strawberry,  a  creeping  buttercup  or  ranunculus,  and 
quite  a  host  of  plants  are  available  and  effective  as 
soil  covers  either  on  flat  surfaces  or  terrace  banks. 


IN   CALIFORNIA  33 

WEEDS  AND  FERTILIZERS 

Of  all  weeds  that  infest  the  lawn  no  other  is  so 
hard  to  control  or  eradicate  as  Bermuda  grass,  often 
given  such  uncomplimentary  names  as  "devil  grass," 
"witch  grass,"  etc.  After  once  becoming  established 
it  cannot  be  got  rid  of  except  through  making  a  new 
lawn  and  very  carefully  removing  every  little  piece 
of  the  grass,  but  there  are  easy  methods  of  control. 

With  a  steel  rake  go  over  the  lawn  in  late  autumn 
and  drag  forth  the  offending  grass.  All  that  is  torn 
up  and  not  removed  by  raking  may  be  cut  off  with  a 
mower.  When  you  have  repeated  this  performance 
until  it  ceases  to  be  a  pleasure,  sow  some  clover 
seed,  water  it  well  and  retire  until  spring.  The  Ber- 
muda grass,  being  native  to  the  tropics,  will  scarcely 
grow  at  all  during  winter,  and  it  will  be  late  in  sum- 
mer before  it  is  again  noticeable,  for  its  growth  is 
prostrate  and  will  be  somewhat  enfeebled  through 
smothering  under  the  rank,  thick  growth  of  clover. 
You  may  repeat  this  method  of  control  each  year  if 
so  desired,  but  once  in  three  years  will  suffice  to  pre- 
serve a  neat  appearance  and  effectively  control  the 
Bermuda  grass. 

Seeds  of  this  grass  are  often  introduced  through 
use  of  manures  from  low-lying  dairy  districts,  either 
by  spading  in  when  lawnmaking  or  in  top  dressing 
thereafter.  Bermuda  grass  infests  lowlands,  espe- 
cially rich  bottom  lands  along  streams  "where  kine 
are  wont  to  graze."  It  is  therefore  better  to  use  only 
well-rotted  manure  or  have  it  wetted  thoroughly  and 
turned  over  every  day  or  two  until  weed  seeds  have 
been  burned  out  or  started  into  active  growth.  It 
may  be  best  to  depend  upon  commercial  fertilizers, 
and  every  dealer  handles  one  or  more  brands  spe- 
cially prepared  for  lawn  use. 

Annual   weeds   may   be   controlled   by     frequent 


34  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

mowing,  and  many  will  be  killed  thereby.  The  re- 
mainder can  endure  but  to  the  end  of  summer  when 
death  naturally  ensues.  Dandelions  are  a  most  seri- 
ous pest  in  many  lawns,  and  there  seems  to  be  no 
better  means  of  eradication  than  cutting  off  each 
plant  a  couple  of  inches  below  the  surface  with  an 
old  table  knife  sharpened  to  a  square  on  the  end. 
Some  control  has  been  attained  through  spraying 
with  iron  sulphate  or  copper  sprays,  but  this  method 
is  neither  necessary  nor  feasible  except  on  acreage. 

Chickweed,  sorrel,  and  many  other  nearly  pros- 
trate or  lowly  plants  are  at  times  serious  pests  and 
yield  readily  to  no  treatment  except  pulling  by  hand. 
Like  moss  they  thrive  best  in  somewhat  shaded  loca- 
tions and  prefer  soils  more  or  less  acid.  A  liberal 
application  of  air-slaked  lime  or  wood  ashes  will 
often  aid  in  ridding  the  lawn  of  these  pests  and  also 
prove  of  benefit  to  grasses. 

To  return  to  fertilization,  do  not  perform  this  work 
in  autumn,  as  grass  grows  but  little  in  cold  weather 
and  calls  for  no  food,  and  if  the  temperature  is  low 
none  is  available  except  through  use  of  nitrate  of 
soda.  Nearly  all  plant  food  is  washed  away  by  winter 
rains,  either  off  the  land  or  down  into  the  soil  beyond 
reach  of  grass  roots.  March  is  early  enough  for  such 
work  in  California;  the  heavier  "carrying-off"  rains 
have  then  ceased,  and  the  grass  starts  into  active 
growth,  thereby  indicating  the  need  of  food  which  it 
could  not  use  while  lying  dormant. 


THE    AUSTRALIAN    BLUE    GUM 
Eucalyptus  globulus 


CHAPTER  III 

TREES  AND  SHRUBS 

The  beautifying  of  home  grounds  is  at  all  times 
an  important  consideration.  Inquiries  as  to  varieties 
to  plant  and  methods  of  planting  are  received  by  the 
author  every  month  in  the  year.  Nearly  all  these 
questions  are  about  trees  and  shrubs  suitable  for 
this  climate  and  their  proper  disposition  in  the  home 
grounds. 

Trees  and  shrubs  are  planted  about  the  dwelling 
for  shade,  for  shelter,  to  accentuate  the  beauty  of 
the  building,  to  hide  defects  impossible  of  removal 
or  for  general  landscape  effect.  To  secure  these 
ends  a  map  of  the  grounds  should  be  made  in  ad- 
vance of  planting  and  upon  it  should  be  marked  the 
parts  to  be  screened  from  view,  the  views  it  is  de- 
sired to  preserve  or  emphasize  and  the  location  of  all 
drives,  walks,  buildings  and  permanent  fixtures  and 
accessories.  The  nature  and  needs  of  the  soil  should 
then  be  carefully  determined,  proper  means  taken  to 
supply  deficiencies,  the  species  or  varieties  of  trees 
needed  studiously  selected  and  ordered  from  some 
reliable  nurseryman. 

Each  species  has  in  its  native  habitat  become 
adapted  to  certain  conditions  of  soil  and  climate, 
and  these  generally  are  definitely  known  to  every 
professional  plantsman  and  well  posted  nurseryman. 
Trees  planted  in  soils  and  climate  unsuitable  cannot 
but  fail  to  grow,  however  much  care  and  ceremony 
be  observed  in  the  planting.  Luckily  Californians 
have  an  almost  endless  list  from  which  to  choose. 


36  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

The  almost  universal  tendency  in  planting  trees  in 
home  grounds  is  to  place  them  too  closely  about  the 
house  and  to  plant  too  thickly,  shutting  out  views 
and  light  from  the  windows  and  cluttering  up  and 
appropriating  the  whole  yard,  to  the  destruction  of 
landscape  beauty.  The  better  plan  is  to  plant  the 


c 

DETERMINING  HEIGHT  OP  TREE 

The  height  of  a  tree,  a  stack,  or  other  object  may,  when  not  easily 
measured  directly,  be  found  as  follows : — Set  up  a  pole,  as  tall  a  one 
as  procurable,  truly  vertical ;  find  by  sighting  the  point  on  the  ground 
where  the  line  through  the  top  of  the  object  and  of  the  pole  cuts  it. 
Then  the  height  of  the  object  is  in  the  same  proportion  to  the  height  of 
the  pole  as  the  distance  from  the  object  to  the  cutting  point  is  to  that 
from  the  pole.  Using  the  letters  on  the  diagram,  the  height  AB  is  to 

CD,  the  height  of  the  pole,  as  AE  to  CE.     Thus  AB  =  (CD  X  AE)  ~- 

CE.  The  point  A  must  be  directly  below  B,  and  the  line  AE  must  be 
uniformly  sloping ;  it  need  not  be  horizontal. 

larger  trees  and  shrubs  along  the  borders  of  the 
place,  low  shrubs  and  herbaceous  plants  in  the  house 
border,  leaving  spaces  between  house  and  boundary 
border  treeless.  Plant  in  irregular  masses  rather 
than  in  straight  lines  or  as  single  specimens. 

Care  and  experience  are  required  to  so  plant  trees 
that  they  will  not  only  live  but  thrive.  It  will  prove 
more  satisfactory,  and  cheaper,  to  hire  such  work 
done  by  an  experienced  gardener.  In  planting  or 
transplanting  trees  choose  small  rather  than  large 
specimens.  Dig  large  holes  a  day  or  a  few  days  in 


IN   CALIFORNIA  37 

advance  of  planting.  If  for  deciduous  trees,  unless 
the  soil  is  well  saturated  with  rainwater,  fill  the 
holes  at  once  with  water  up  to  the  brim.  If  for  ev- 
ergreen trees  put  in  all  or  nearly  all  the  soil  before 
filling  with  water.  Then  after  the  soil  is  settled  dig 
out  the  small  hole  necessary  for  the  balled  or  potted 
plant.  Place  the  trees  a  little  deeper  in  the  soil  than 
they  were  in  pot  or  nursery  and  do  not  use  water  to 
firm  the  soil  but  water  most  thoroughly  after  plant- 
ing is  done.  Keep  the  soil  close  about  the  tree  free 
from  grass  or  weeds.  Remember  there  is  no  best 
tree  for  all  purposes;  every  street,  lawn  and  lot 
should  receive  special  study  as  to  its  requirements. 
The  condition  and  nature  of  the  soil,  the  size  of  lot  or 
width  of  street,  the  kind  of  buildings  and  style  of 
architecture,  also  the  style  of  gardening  are  all  im- 
portant considerations.  Therefore,  if  your  lot  or 
your  problem  be  of  any  considerable  size,  a  plan 
should  be  made  by  a  professional  designer. 

STREET  TREES,  UNIFORM  PLANTING 

In  nearly  all  cities  and  towns  the  streets  are 
planted  with  several  kinds  and  species  of  trees  to 
each  block,  of  every  conceivable  size,  form,  color  and 
degree  of  desirability  and  fitness.  Such  planting 
appears  as  irrational  as  a  large  orchard  composed 
of  several  sorts  of  fruit  trees  of  varying  sizes  and 
requirements,  all  hopelessly  mixed.  One  horticul- 
tural author  says  such  planting  reminds  him  of  "nine 
monstrously  different  buttons  down  the  front  of  a 
Prince  Albert  coat."  Another  says:  "The  planting 
of  a  jumble  of  sorts  upon  the  same  block  is  a  most 
reprehensible  practice." 

Little  can  be  done  toward  uniform  planting  with- 
out zealous  and  well-directed  cooperation.  There 
must  be  unity  and  intelligence  of  plan.  The  work 


38  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

should  be  carried  on  by  improvement  associations 
formed  to  control  either  a  street,  precinct,  ward  or 
town.  Better  still  would  it  be  if  the  city  or  town 
controlled  all  street  planting.  First  outline  a  plan 
on  which  people  of  diverse  tastes  and  interests  can 
either  agree  or  effect  a  compromise.  This  will  not 
be  found  impossible,  for  the  majority  of  people  de- 
sire that  their  neighborhood  shall  be  attractive  and 
will  yield  in  order  to  obtain  desirable  results.  We 
must  sacrifice  some  things  in  order  to  get  others  of 
different  tastes  to  cooperate  with  us.  After  a  thor- 
ough discussion  of  the  merits  of  the  different  trees 
desired,  put  the  selection  of  one  for  each  street  to 
a  vote  and  let  the  majority  rule,  not  forgetting  that 
this  is  a  matter  which  more  concerns  the  general 
public  than  the  individual.  Furthermore,  it  is  not 
so  essential  to  have  some  specific  tree  as  it  is  that 
but  one  kind  be  planted  to  each  block  or  street. 

TREES  FOR  STREET  AND  GARDEN 

The  following  lists  are  very  general  and  include 
nearly  all  those  suitable  for  street  planting  in  Cali- 
fornia. Of  course  all  are  equally  desirable  for  park 
or  garden.  A  few  of  them  thrive  in  all  sections, 
many  of  them  quite  generally  throughout  the  south 
end  of  the  state  and  the  San  Francisco-Oakland  dis- 
trict, and  a  few  in  restricted  districts  only.  In 
planting  a  considerable  number  of  species  a  thor- 
ough knowledge  of  trees  and  of  local  conditions  and 
requirements  is  necessary,  especially  in  choosing  a 
list  for  planting,  if  assurance  is  to  be  given  of  good 
permanent  results. 

ASSORTED  EVERGREENS 

Acacia  cyanophylla,  blue-leaved  wattle;  A.  deal- 
bata,  silver  wattle;  A.  decurrens,  green  wattle;  A. 


IN   CALIFORNIA  39 

floribunda;  A.  longifolia;  A.  melanoxylon,  black- 
wood;  Albizzia  lophanta,  crested  wattle;  Caloden- 
dron  capense,  cape  chestnut ;  Casuarina  stricta,  beef- 
wood  or  she-oak;  Ceratonia  siliqua,  carob  or  St. 
John's  bread;  Cinnamomum  camphora,  camphor 
tree;  Eucalyptus  amygdalina,  Messmate  gum;  E. 
calophylla,  white-flowering  gum ;  E.  ficif olia,  scarlet- 
flowering  gum;  E.  leucoxylon,  white  iron-bark;  E. 
platyphylla,  broad-leaved  gum;  E.  polyanthema,  red 
box;  E.  punctata,  hickory  gum;  E.  robusta,  swamp 
mahogany ;  E.  rudis,  desert  gum ;  E.  sideroxylon, 
red  iron-bark;  Ficus  macrophylla,  Moreton  Bay  fig; 
Grevillea  robusta,  silk  oak;  Jacaranda  ovalifolia, 
blue  trumpet-flower  tree;  Ligustrum  ovalifolium, 
Japan  privet;  Nerium  oleander,  oleander;  Pittos- 
porum  rhombif olium,  saw-leaved  box ;  P.  undulatum, 
Victoria  box;  Quercus  agrifolia,  live  oak;  Q.  suber, 
cork  oak;  Schinus  molle,  pepper  tree;  Sterculia  di- 
versifolia,  bottle  tree. 

CONIFERS,  OR  CONE  BEARERS 

Unless  conifers  may  be  planted  in  wide  parkways 
or  along  broad  highways  where  sufficient  space  is 
allowed  for  retention  of  the  lower  branches,  their 
use  for  such  positions  is  not  advised  but  on  the  con- 
trary is  condemned  by  all  recognized  authorities. 
While  it  is  better  that  planting  space  should  be 
broad  enough  to  allow  of  natural  pyramidal  growth, 
if  the  space  is  less  than  this,  the  tips  or  leaders  of 
branches  may  be  nipped  off  when  reaching  a  certain 
length  from  the  trunk,  resulting  in  a  cone-shaped 
tree  with  its  base  still  resting  securely  on  the  soil 
beneath. 

California  is  singularly  blessed  with  a  long  list 
of  native  conifers,  or  cone-bearing  trees,  which  are 
much  in  demand  where  the  climate  will  allow  of 


40  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

their  successful  outdoor  culture,  and  many  are  grown 
as  pot  plants,  either  because  of  their  extreme  beauty 
or  the  fame  or  sentiment  attached,  as  in  the  case 
of  our  big  tree  and  redwood. 

The  big  tree,  Sequoia  gigantea,  is  hardy  in  many 
parts  of  the  United  States,  Europe,  England,  etc., 
but  the  redwood  will  not  stand  much  cold  weather. 
Our  Douglas  spruce,  Pseudotsuga  Douglasi,  is  much 
in  demand  in  all  countries,  and  few  of  our  people  are 
aware  that  it  is  from  this  tree  that  we  get  the  far- 
famed  Oregon  pine.  This  tree  may  be  found  in  the 
lower  mountains.  Horticulturists  have  appreciated 
this  tree  to  the  extent  of  producing,  by  selection  and 
other  means,  at  least  ten  distinct  forms  which  have 
been  given  varietal  names. 

We  have  so  many  native  genera  in  the  cone  bear- 
ers that  all  could  hardly  be  covered  in  this  list,  but 
to  show  our  wealth  of  available  garden  material  we 
will  take  one  genus,  pinus,  or  the  true  pines.  These 
must  not  be  confounded  with  spruces,  firs,  cedars, 
cypresses,  junipers  and  the  great  host  of  other  na- 
tive conifers.  The  following  fifteen  California  spe- 
cies have  been  advertised  in  nursery  catalogues: 
Pinus  Balfouriana,  foxtail  pine;  P.  contorta,  scrub 
pine;  P.  Coulteri,  pitch  or  big  cone  pine;  P.  flexilis, 
limber  pine;  P.  Jeffreyi,  Jeffrey's  pine;  P.  Lamber- 
tiana,  sugar  pine;  P.  monophylla,  single-leaf  pine; 
P.  monticola,  mountain  white  pine;  P.  Muricata, 
prickle  cone  pine;  P.  Parryana  or  quadrifolia,  nut 
pine  or  pinon ;  P.  ponderosa,  yellow  pine ;  P.  radiata, 
Monterey  pine;  P.  Sabiniana,  digger  pine;  P.  Tor- 
reyana,  Soledad  pine ;  P.  tuberculata,  knob  cone  pine. 
Aside  from  these  are  many  either  of  late  introduc- 
tion to  the  nursery  trade  or  of  little  value  as  horticul- 
tural subjects. 


IN   CALIFORNIA  41 

CURIOUS  CONIFERS 

The  conifers  contain  both  the  largest  and  the 
smallest  trees  in  the  world,  as  well  as  those  enduring 
the  greatest  extremes  of  heat  and  cold.  Nearly  all 
are  evergreen  but  a  few  are  deciduous,  the  most 
common  of  the  latter  class  being  the  larches. 

Ginkgo  biloba,  the  maidenhair  tree  from  northern 
China,  is  a  deciduous  conifer  whose  botanical  affin- 
ities seem  to  be  with  the  conifers  on  one  side  and 
with  the  ferns  on  the  other,  though  but  little  like 
either.  The  leaves  are  fan-shaped  and  notched  just 
like  a  giant  maidenhair  fern,  and  unbranched  veins 
extend  in  radiating  lines  to  the  edge  of  the  leaf 
precisely  as  they  do  in  the  fern.  The  fruit  is  in  no 
wise  a  cone  as  we  know  cones,  but  is  a  fleshy  drupe 
not  unlike  the  fruit  of  the  yews,  which  by  some 
botanists  are  removed  from  the  conifers  though 
closely  related  to  the  maidenhair  tree. 

Another  curious  conifer  is  Agathis  robusta,  the 
dammar  or  kauri  pine,  native  to  Queensland  and 
many  islands  in  Australasia.  If  the  ginkgo  is  to  be 
called  a  fern  tree  by  reason  of  its  quaint  foliage, 
the  agathis  should  be  called  the  lily  tree  for  a  like 
reason.  The  leaves  of  the  kauri  pine  are,  however, 
much  handsomer  than  those  of  any  lily  and  also 
much  thicker  and  of  more  substantial  texture.  There 
is  no  other  conifer  and  scarcely  a  tree  of  any  kind 
that  rivals  this  tree  in  beauty  of  foliage,  and  very 
few  who  view  it  are  easily  convinced  of  its  botan- 
ical relationship. 

It  is  interesting  to  Californians  to  know  that  we 
have  a  conifer  which  is  curious  by  reason  of  its 
isolation  from  its  half  dozen  or  more  sister  species. 
The  incense  cedar,  Libocedrus  decurrens,  is  the  only 
representative  of  the  genus  in  North  America. 
Others  are  found  in  various  parts  of  the  world,  thus, 


42  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

Chile  to  Patagonia,  Island  of  Formosa,  China,  New 
Zealand  and  New  Guinea,  but  generally  in  the  south- 
ern hemisphere.  Junipers  are  curious  for  the  rea- 
son that  they  do  not  bear  true  cones,  but  berries; 
everybody  has  heard  of  juniper  berries.  Junipers 
also  bear  two  kinds  of  leaves. 

THE  ARAUCARIA  GROUP 

The  group  of  conifers  known  as  araucarias  are 
among  the  most  ornate  of  the  family,  and  a  collec- 
tion of  all  the  species  would  make  one  of  the  most 
interesting  groves  of  trees  that  could  be  planted  in 
a  large  park  or  extensive  country  home. 

We  have  six  species,  four  from  Australasia  and 
two  from  South  America.  Owing  to  the  dryness  of 
our  climate  the  latter  two,  A.  imbricata,  the  mon- 
key puzzle,  and  A.  Brasiliense,  do  not  thrive  in  our 
state,  though  specimens  are  not  uncommon.  By 
far  the  most  common  species  is  the  Norfolk  Island 
pine,  A.  excelsa.  This  tree  thrives  best  near  the 
seacoast.  A.  Bidwillii  will  do  well  in  the  hot  in- 
terior valleys.  A.  Cookii  is  the  most  rare  of  all  and 
the  writer  knows  of  but  two.  A.  Cunninghamii  is 
somewhat  more  common,  though  it  is  doubtful  if 
there  are  a  score  of  this  species  in  California.  All 
are  large  and  beautiful  trees. 

THE  ARBOR-VITAES 

The  golden  arbor-vitae,  Thuya  aurea,  is  a  dwarf 
Chinese  variety,  very  compact,  globular  in  form, 
and  with  foliage  tips  of  yellowish  green.  T.  com- 
pacta  is  quite  similar  but  is  bright  green  in  color 
and  attains  a  height  of  five  or  six  feet. 

The  giant  arbor-vitae,  T.  gigantea,  is  a  native  of 
California  and  is,  as  its  name  indicates,  the  largest 
of  the  family,  often  attaining  a  height  of  150  feet. 


IN   CALIFORNIA  43 

In  the  garden  it  is  noted  for  its  rapid,  vigorous 
growth  and  sturdy  form.  On  the  Atlantic  Coast 
there  is  a  native  species,  T.  occidentalis,  that  is 
known  as  the  American  arbor-vitae,  or  white  cedar, 
furnishing  the  lumber  known  under  the  latter  name, 
yet  not  a  true  cedar.  It  will  grow  to  fifty  feet  in 
height  and  is  widely  planted  in  parks  and  large 
gardens. 

Thuya  orientalis  is  the  name  of  the  Chinese  arbor- 
vitae,  a  compact,  bushy  tree  twenty  to  thirty  feet 
high  when  mature,  with  bright  green  foliage  which 
stands  edgewise  to  the  trunk.  Another  compact 
form  not  so  common  in  California  as  the  others 
listed,  a  later  introduction,  is  known  as  T.  tatarica, 
a  very  hardy  species  that  grows  rather  slowly  under 
great  extremes  of  temperature  and  treatment  until 
it  finally  reaches  twenty  feet  in  height. 

THE  TRUE  CEDARS 

There  are  but  three  species  of  cedars,  though  many 
trees  are  known  as  such.  The  one  most  commonly 
so-called,  the  red  cedar  of  the  Eastern  states,  is  a 
juniper. 

The  Mount  Atlas  cedar,  Cedrus  Atlantica,  is  the 
least  known  to  us  though  not  rare  in  California  gar- 
dens. It  is  a  rapid-growing  tree  of  loosely  formal, 
pyramidal  outline  and  silvery>-green  foliage,  and 
though  slow  of  growth  when  young  eventually  at- 
tains a  height  of  120  feet. 

The  most  popular  cedar  is  C.  deodara,  variously 
known  as  deodar,  Himalayan  cedar,  or  incense  cedar ; 
a  most  beautiful  and  stately  tree  of  towering  pyra- 
midal growth,  peculiarly  suited  to  all  parts  of  Cali- 
fornia. Its  foliage  is  bluish-green,  silvery  on  the 
under  side,  at  all  times  attractive.  In  the  opinion  of 
the  author  this  is  the  most  beautiful  of  all  trees. 


44  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

C.  Libani  is  the  cedar  of  Lebanon  mentioned  in 
the  bible  and  writings  of  travelers  in  the  Far  East, 
being  native  to  the  land  known  as  the  Cradle  of 
the  Human  Race  and  for  that  reason  alone  in  great 
demand  for  planting  everywhere.  It  is  darker  in 
foliage  than  the  Himalayan  cedar  and  less  hand- 
some. 

THE  CYPRESSES 

The  Arizona  cypress,  Cupressus  Arizonica,  is  com- 
paratively a  newcomer  to  California,  native  to  the 
mountains  of  Arizona  and  New  Mexico.  It  grows 
somewhat  columnar  in  form  but  is  a  handsome  tree 
of  the  type  known  as  blue  cypress.  C.  funebris  is  a 
smaller,  rather  slender  tree  of  loose  foliage  with 
drooping  tips  and  dark  green  in  color.  Gowen's 
cypress,  C.  Goveniana,  is  a  native  of  California  and 
will  prove  satisfactory  wherever  cypresses  are 
needed. 

Cupressus  Guadalupensis  is  a  blue  form  of  the 
better  known  Monterey  cypress,  native  to  Lower  Cal- 
ifornia and  the  near-by  island  of  Guadalupe.  In 
color  its  foliage  ranges  from  a  grayish  or  bluish 
green  to  silvery  blue,  the  latter  being  the  most  at- 
tractive foliage  color  found  in  the  conifers. 

C.  macrocarpa  is  the  Monterey  cypress  common 
over  all  of  California  and  extensively  used  for 
hedges,  windbreaks  and  all  purposes  where  a  quick- 
growing,  thick-foliaged  evergreen  is  wanted,  but  it 
is  rather  a  short-lived  tree  of  somber  appearance. 
The  tall,  very  slender  cypress  to  which  we  attach  the 
name  Italian  is  native  to  both  Southern  Europe  and 
Asia  and  is  the  classical  cypress  of  Greek  and  Roman 
writers.  With  us  it  is  popular  for  making  living 
arches,  gateways  and  for  formal  gardens  and  near 
dwellings  of  severe  architecture. 


IN   CALIFORNIA  45 

THE  PINE  FAMILY 

No  more  handsome  pine  may  be  found  in  western 
gardens  than  Pinus  Canariensis,  named  for  its  na- 
tive habitat  the  Canary  Island  pine.  It  has  long 
needles  or  leaves  of  silvery-blue  and  an  upright, 
stately  growth  that  peculiarly  fits  it  for  highway 
planting. 

P.  halepensis,  the  Aleppo  pine,  is  better  suited 
for  planting  over  all  of  California  than  any  species 
yet  tried.  It  soon  grows  to  large  size,  is  of  a  clean 
and  pleasing  shade  of  light  green  and  succeeds  under 
a  considerable  range  in  temperature,  soil  and  gen- 
eral condition. 

The  Corsican  pine,  P.  laricio,  is  a  tree  with  stout, 
spreading  branches  and  grows  to  a  height  of  150 
feet.  In  general  outline  at  maturity  it  forms  a 
stately  pyramid  of  rugged  beauty.  P.  maritima,  the 
cluster  pine,  is  a  handsome  tree  bearing  needles  a 
foot  long,  curiously  twisted  in  clusters  of  bright 
green.  The  parasol  pine,  P.  pinea,  differs  from  most 
pines  in  having  a  round  head  and  in  age  makes  a 
large  tree  with  a  wide-spreading  top  suggestive  of 
a  gigantic  parasol. 

MIXED  CONIFERS 

Agathis  robusta,  the  dammar  pine  from  northern 
Australia,  is  unique  among  cone-bearing  trees  in 
that  it  is  the  only  one  bearing  broad  leaves,  similar 
to  those  of  laurels  in  outline,  thick  and  leathery  in 
texture  and  truly  handsome. 

Chamaecyparis  Lawsoniana  is  the  name  of  the 
tree  known  to  Californians  as  Lawson  cypress  and 
to  Oregonians  as  Port  Orford  cedar,  being  native  to 
both  states  indicated.  It  is  a  grand  tree,  a  forest 
giant  of  rapid  growth  and  pyramidal  form  with 
bluish-green  foliage,  retaining  its  lower  branches 


46  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

close  to  the  ground.  One  of  the  best  garden  coni- 
fers. 

The  Japanese  cedar,  Cryptomeria  Japonica,  is 
the  dominant  avenue  tree  in  its  native  country  and 
popular  for  planting  in  coastal  California  but  it 
will  not  endure  the  heat  of  our  interior  valleys.  It 
grows  rapidly  near  the  coast  but  is  of  loose  habit. 

A  horticultural  variety  of  the  Japanese  cedar,  a 
smaller  but  handsomer  tree,  is  known  as  C.  elegans 
and  is  not  surpassed  in  fitness  for  California  gar- 
dens in  general  by  any  small  evergreen  tree.  It 
seldom  grows  to  twenty  feet. 

Juniperus  Bermudiana  is  the  only  one  of  many 
species  that  grows  well  in  California.  It  grows 
rapidly  from  the  very  first  though  its  ultimate  height 
is  not  more  than  forty  feet.  For  a  spreading  ever- 
green of  medium  growth  the  Bermuda  juniper  ranks 
well  in  all  of  California.  A  dwarf  species  is  J. 
Sabina,  known  as  the  Sabine  juniper,  and  is  a 
spreading  shrub  of  value  for  planting  in  poor  soils, 
rockeries,  etc.  There  is  also  a  prostrate  variety 
that  grows  flat  on  the  ground,  a  fine  rough  covering 
for  terrace  banks  and  places  of  similar  needs. 

Two  so-called  cedars  are  general  favorites,  one, 
Libocedrus  Chilensis,  is  known  as  the  Chilean  cedar 
and  the  other,  L.  decurrens,  as  the  incense  cedar. 
Both  are  large  spreading  trees  of  handsome  appear- 
ance, but  the  incense  cedar,  native  to  California  and 
Oregon  is  one  of  our  most  stately  evergreens  and 
one  of  the  best  for  park  or  garden. 

One  of  the  Japanese  yews,  Podocarpus  macro- 
phylla,  has  foliage  somewhat  like  the  oleander, 
though  narrower.  It  is  a  small,  spreading  tree  of 
fine  appearance  and  worthy  of  extensive  garden 
use,  somewhat  of  an  oddity  among  coniferous  trees. 

Taxus  baccata  is  the  English  yew  so  extensively 


IN   CALIFORNIA  47 

planted  in  its  native  country  and  often  clipped  into 
formal  and  fantastic  shapes.  With  us  it  is  but  a 
large  spreading  shrub  though  with  age  it  will  come 
to  arborescent  growth.  It  bears  a  somber  hue  ex- 
cept when  the  wind  upturns  the  branches  and  shows 
the  silvery  sheen  on  the  under  side  of  the  foliage. 

The  so-called  Irish  yew  is  a  f  astigiate  or  narrowly 
columnar  form  of  the  English  yew  and  would  scarce- 
ly be  suspected  of  being  closely  related.  In  color  it 
is  a  very  dark  green  and  the  general  appearance  is 
that  of  a  huge  bundle  of  closely  packed  perpendicu- 
lar branches ;  a  favorite  for  formal  gardens. 

DECIDUOUS  TREES 

In  places  where  summer  shade  and  winter  sun- 
shine is  desired,  deciduous  trees  may  be  planted, 
but  with  the  splendid  roads  we  now  have  in  all 
parts  of  California  the  old  cry  of  "muddy  roads 
during  the  rainy  season"  cannot  longer  be  offered 
as  a  reason  for  planting  deciduous  trees  along 
streets  and  highways  in  a  state  having  almost  per- 
petual sunshine  and  summer. 

On  public  or  private  playgrounds,  picnic  grounds, 
to  provide  shade  for  summer  only  over  certain  parts 
of  the  house  or  other  buildings  or  over  arbors,  seats, 
resting-places  or  plant  groups  or  collections,  de- 
ciduous trees  may  not  only  be  permissible,  but  ad- 
visable. In  botanic  gardens  and  for  collections  of 
deciduous  plants  in  parks  and  large  gardens  they 
are  necessary.  But  for  mere  ornament  they  have 
no  place  in  the  southern  two-thirds  of  California. 

It  may  interest  the  reader  to  know  that  in  Amer- 
ica we  have  but  three  families  of  deciduous  native 
trees  possessing  opposite  leaves,  and  all  have  repre- 
sentatives in  California  and  will  be  found  fairly 
close  to  streams.  It  is  not  necessary  to  find  them 


48  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

in  leaf  to  know  them — look  to  see  if  leaf  scars  and 
buds  are  opposite,  and  if  so  the  tree  is  either  ash, 
maple  or  horse  chestnut.  If  they  are  not  opposite 
they  as  clearly  belong  to  some  other  family  or  are 
native  to  some  other  country,  or  both. 

There  is  little  doubt  but  Platanus  orientalis,  the 
oriental  plane,  is  the  one  best  deciduous  tree  for  all 
purposes,  but  other  good  species  for  either  street  or 
garden  planting  are:  Acer  dasycarpum,  soft  or  sil- 
ver maple;  Acer  platanoides,  Norway  maple;  Acer 
negundo,  box  elder;  Albizzia  julibrissin,  pink  acacia; 
Broussonetia  papyrifera,  paper  mulberry;  Castanea 
vesca,  Spanish  chestnut;  Celtis  australis,  European 
hackberry;  Fraxinus  Americana,  white  ash;  Frax- 
inus  lanceolata,  green  ash;  Ginkgo  biloba,  maiden- 
hair tree ;  Hicoria  pecan,  pecan ;  Liriodendron  tulip- 
if era,  tulip  tree ;  Melia  azerdarach  umbraculif ormis, 
Texas  umbrella  tree;  Populus  balsamifera  candi- 
cans,  balm  of  Gilead ;  Populus  Carolinensis,  Carolina 
poplar;  Quercus  lobata,  California  white  oak; 
Quercus  palustris,  pin  oak;  Quercus  pedunculata, 
English  oak;  Quercus  rubra,  red  oak;  Sterculia 
platanif olia,  parasol  tree ;  Ulmus  Americana,  Amer- 
ican white  elm;  Ulmus  suberosa,  cork-barked  elm; 
Ulmus  glabra  vegata,  Huntingdon  elm. 

PALMS  AND  ASSOCIATES 

Of  the  great  number  of  plants  available  none  are 
better  suited  to  California  gardens  than  palms,  the 
kings  and  princes  of  the  vegetable  kingdom;  none 
give  us  more  of  tropical  grace  and  luxuriance.  "Land 
of  the  palm  and  banana"  has  a  most  alluring  sound 
that  draws  to  us  each  winter  tens  of  thousands  from 
less  favored  states  who  love  to  bask  in  our  winter 
sunshine  and  watch  the  gentle  swaying  to  the  breeze 
of  our  wonderful  tropical  vegetation. 


THE    SOUTH    AMERICAN    ORANGE    TRUMPET    FLOWER 
Bignonia  venusta 


IN  CALIFORNIA  49 

Luxuriant  as  is  the  average  palm  in  our  gardens, 
none  of  them  find  ideal  conditions  for  proper  de- 
velopment, so  that  all  fall  short  of  the  beauty  of 
the  same  species  when  seen  under  strictly  tropical 
skies.  All  palms  need  an  abundance  of  water  and 
unless  it  is  given  them  a  wealth  of  growth  should 
not  be  expected.  During  the  winter  months  palms 
need  but  little  water  other  than  that  from  the  sea- 
sonal rainfall,  for  they  are  at  this  time  practically 
dormant.  It  is  during  the  hottest  weather  that 
copious  and  frequent  irrigations  should  be  given, 
for  under  the  stimulus  of  our  extremes  of  heat 
coupled  with  a  wealth  of  water  the  development  of 
palms  and  their  associates  nearest  approaches  the 
ideal. 

Few  plants  lend  such  a  delicate  tropical  grace  to 
the  house  surroundings  as  bamboo,  nor  are  such 
plantations  at  all  out  of  place  in  more  remote  sit- 
uations. The  richest  and  most  tropical  vegetation 
should  always  be  nearest  the  dwelling,  especially 
plants  of  dignified  and  formal  growth  like  the  palms, 
but  as  we  wander  through  extensive  grounds  one 
occasionally  is  charmed  by  finding  a  tropical  nook 
filled  with  rank,  graceful,  yet  careless  growth  of 
bamboo,  banana,  and  similar  plants. 

Palms  and  dracenas  suitable  for  both  street  and 
garden  are :  Trachycarpus  excelsus,  windmill  palm ; 
Washingtonia  robusta,  Mexican  fan  palm ;  Washing- 
tonia  filifera,  California  fan  palm;  Livistona  aus- 
tralis,  Australian  fan  palm;  Erythea  edulis,  Guada- 
lupe  palm;  Cordyline  indivisa,  dracena,  or  palm 
lily;  Cordyline  australis,  dracena,  or  palm  lily; 
Cocos  plumosa,  queen  palm. 

Some  of  the  best  bamboos  are:  Arundinaria  Fal- 
coneri,  a  most  graceful  kind,  not  much  over  fifteen 
feet  high,  with  very  thin  stems  and  a  mass  of 


50  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

feathery  foliage,  admirably  suited  for  lawns  and 
for  decoration.  Grows  in  clumps  and  never  sends 
out  runners. 

Bambusa  vulgaris  is  tall,  arching  and  hardy 
everywhere.  This  beautiful,  tall  and  quick-grow- 
ing bamboo  is  really  invaluable  for  scenic,  tropical 
effect.  A  magnificent  group  can  be  made  by  plac- 
ing the  upright  growing  Dendrocalamus  latifolia 
in  the  center,  massing  Bambusa  vulgaris  around  it, 
and  bordering  with  a  dwarf  species. 

Dendrocalamus  latifolia  is  the  most  desirable 
and  most  impressive  bamboo  so  far  introduced. 
Stems  are  four  to  five  inches  thick;  up  to  fifty  feet 
in  height,  straight,  and  heavily  clothed  with  broad, 
long  leaves  which  keep  their  color  better  than  those 
of  any  other  giant  bamboo. 

Phyllostachys  viridi  glaucescens,  from  Northern 
China,  the  true  "fish-pole  bamboo,"  is  one  of  the 
hardiest,  quickest-growing,  most  effective  bamboos 
ever  introduced  to  our  state.  It  grows  like  a  weed, 
and  one  shoot  planted  in  spring  will  multiply  to  six 
or  eight  before  fall. 

ORNAMENTAL  FRUIT  TREES 

In  many  sections  of  California,  owing  to  the  mild- 
ness of  winter,  we  are  enabled  to  grow  a  score  or 
more  of  tropical  and  semitropical  fruit  trees,  nearly 
all  of  which  are  evergreens  having  a  decided  orna- 
mental as  well  as  economic  value.  In  the  city  or 
suburban  garden  of  restricted  area  it  is  often  pos- 
sible to  use  fruiting  trees  and  shrubs  of  this  nature 
as  a  feature  of  landscape  ornamentation. 

The  golden  glow  of  our  citrus  fruits  is  the  most 
welcome  sight  that  greets  the  eye  of  our  first-time 
visitor,  and  even  the  returning  Californian  gazes 
upon  these  familiar  objects  with  a  love  akin  to  ven- 


IN   CALIFORNIA  51 

eration.  Every  home  owner  should  find  a  place  for 
a  few  citrus  trees. 

The  avocado,  Persea  gratissima,  is  one  of  the 
most  ornamental  of  all  fruit  trees,  handsome  in 
form  and  foliage  and  producing  a  most  abundant 
crop  of  fruits  of  the  highest  food  value.  This  tree 
is  worthy  of  extensive  planting  throughout  the 
warmer  sections  of  the  state,  and  of  late  years  has 
become  quite  well  known  and  its  value  recognized. 

During  the  past  score  of  years  the  cherimoya  or 
custard  apple,  Anona  cherimolia  and  A.  reticulata, 
has  been  planted  quite  extensively  and  fruits  well 
in  scores  of  localities  varying  in  soil  and  climatic 
conditions. 

Carissa  is  a  particularly  showy  shrub  well  worthy 
of  a  place  in  any  garden  for  its  ornamental  value. 
It  bears  fair-sized  fruits,  very  nice  to  eat,  but  very 
few  Californians  seem  to  grow  them. 

The  white  sapota  from  Mexico,  Casimiroa  edulis, 
is  a  fine  tree  of  good  size  that  yields  a  most  delicious 
fruit  and  has  been  sparingly  planted  for  many  years, 
and  the  same  may  be  said  of  the  mango,  more  tender 
still,  claimed  by  those  who  have  eaten  it  in  India  to 
be  the  finest  of  all  tropical  fruits. 

Among  the  many  fruit-bearing  trees  and  shrubs 
of  ornamental  value  none  have  been  more  exten- 
sively planted  in  California  or  have  proven  them- 
selves better  adapted  to  soil  and  climate  than  the 
eugenias.  Unfortunately,  we  have  not  grown  those 
of  specific  economic  value,  though  these  species  are 
fully  as  ornate  as  those  more  common  with  us. 

The  kai  apple  from  Natal,  Aberia  caffra,  and  a 
still  better  species  from  Ceylon,  A.  Gardneri,  may  be 
grown  either  as  small  trees  or  as  a  large  hedge, 
much  as  limes  are  usually  planted.  The  first-named 
species  has  been  fruited  here  for  many  years,  and 


52  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

furnishes  an  acid  fruit  prized  for  jams  and  jellies. 
The  tree  is  somewhat  thorny  and  naturally  grows 
in  a  neat,  compact  form. 

The  zapote  or  sapodilla,  Achras  sapota,  is  a  fine 
broad-leafed  evergreen  tree  bearing  a  fruit  not  un- 
like a  russet  apple  in  appearance,  but  having  flesh 
more  like  a  pear  in  texture  and  flavor. 

Feijoa  Sellowiana,  the  Paraguay  guava,  though 
closely  allied  to  the  guavas,  is  much  preferred  by  all 
who  have  eaten  it  to  any  true  guava.  In  size  and 
shape  it  resembles  a  large  plum  from  one  to  two 
inches  in  diameter  and  an  inch  greater  in  length. 

The  strawlberry  guava,  Psidium  cattleianum,  is  a 
fine  glossy-leaved  shrub  or  small  tree  which  pro- 
duces an  abundance  of  luscious  fruit  about  the  size 
of  a  large  strawberry,  round  and  of  a  deep  reddish- 
brown  color.  The  fruit  is  highly  prized  for  table  use 
when  fresh,  and  for  jams  and  jellies  has  few  equals. 

The  loquat  is  highly  esteemed  for  its  agreeable 
acidulous,  aromatic  flavor  and  on  account  of  its 
ripening  in  early  spring.  The  tree  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  among  fruit  trees. 

HARDY  EUCALYPTS 

Though  many  eucalypts  for  special  uses  are 
listed  in  these  pages  it  may  be  well  to  again  call 
attention  to  the  unquestioned  adaptability  of  these 
trees  to  any  and  all  parts  of  California,  for  no  other 
vegetation  has  wrought  such  a  wonderful  transfor- 
mation in  our  landscapes. 

As  showing  the  extremes  under  which  these  trees 
will  thrive,  there  are  several  species  hardy  in  the 
southern  parts  of  England  and  Ireland,  even  to  some 
distance  north  of  London.  The  hardiest  of  these  is 
E.  coriacea,  a  dwarf  species  from  snow-covered 
mountain  tops  in  Australia,  but  not  useful  to  us  ex- 


IN   CALIFORNIA  53 

cept  under  similar  conditions  in  forest  reserves. 
The  hardiest  species  that  grows  to  the  dignity  of  a 
tree  is  E.  Gunnii,  but  its  growth  is  too  slow  for  pop- 
ular use.  E.  coccifera,  cordata,  urnigera,  saligna, 
resinif  era,  and  viminalis  grow  in  Cornwall,  England, 
but  only  one,  viminalis,  thrives  well  in  the  colder 
parts  of  California. 

Under  the  stress  of  great  heat  other  species  thrive 
equally  as  well  as  do  those  of  the  former  list  in  lands 
of  heavy  frosts  and  snow.  At  Thermal,  California, 
on  our  so-called  Colorado  Desert,  twenty-five  species 
were  tried  out,  about  one  hundred  plants  of  each 
being  used  for  the  test.  Of  these  five  species  success- 
fully withstood  the  heat  with  a  continuation  of  vig- 
orous annual  growth.  These  were:  E.  leucoxylon, 
the  Victoria  iron  bark;  E.  polyanthema,  the  red  box; 
E.  rostrata,  the  red  gum;  E.  rudis,  and  E.  viminalis, 
the  manna  gum.  Of  these  five  the  last-named  grew 
more  rapidly  and  straighter  than  the  others,  and 
during  the  first  year  many  attained  a  height  of 
fifteen  feet.  For  extremes  of  both  heat  and  cold  it 
is  the  best  species  of  all,  a  truly  wonderful  tree  in 
its  climatic  adaptation. 

TREES  FOR  ARID  REGIONS 

There  are  many  trees  quite  common,  which  will 
endure  the  heat  of  these  sections,  but  not  all  will 
withstand  the  cold,  and  in  the  appended  list  care 
must  be  taken  that  frosts  are  not  too  severe  for  some 
of  those  named. 

Among  the  best  trees  are :  Beef -wood  or  she-oak, 
casuarina;  pepper,  Schinus  molle;  Texas  umbrella, 
melia;  black  locust,  Robinia  pseudacacia;  honey  lo- 
cust, Gleditschia  triacanthos ;  several  willows ;  box 
elder,  Acer  negundo;  cotton  woods,  several  species; 
at  least  five  eucalypts — rostrata,  rudis,  tereticornis, 


54  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

polyanthema,  and  viminalis;  palo  verde  and  mes- 
quite,  both  from  the  desert;  the  Chinese  tree  of 
heaven,  Ailanthus  glandulosa;  ash,  several  species; 
Kentucky  coffee  tree,  Gymnocladus  Canadensis; 
Russian  mulberry,  Morus  alba  tatarica;  osage 
orange,  Toxylon  pomiferum;  poplars,  both  Lom- 
bardy  and  Carolina ;  purple  plum,  Prunus  cerasifera 
atropurpurea ;  soft  maple,  Acer  saccharinum ;  syca- 
more, either  of  the  western  species  of  platanus; 
black  walnut,  any  species;  arbor-vitae,  Thuya  occi- 
dentalis;  spindle  tree,  Evonymus  Japonicus;  Indian 
cedar,  Cedrus  deodara;  Japanese  cedars,  species  of 
chamaecyparis ;  red  cedar,  Juniperus  Virginiana; 
our  native  fan  palm,  Washingtonia  filif era ;  and  the 
dates,  Phoenix  dactylifera,  P.  Canariensis  and  P. 
reclinata. 

In  shrubs  use  tamarisk,  myoporums,  Althaea  offi- 
cinalis,  poinsettia,  Euphorbia  pulcherrima;  bottle 
brushes,  melaleucas,  callistemons,  etc.,  pomegranate, 
and  privet,  Ligustrum  Japonicum.  For  dry  places 
try  native  pines  in  the  order  named  (for  drouth 
resistant  qualities)  :  P.  tuberculata  the  knob-cone 
pine,  P.  Sabiniana,  the  digger  or  bull  pine,  and  P. 
monticola,  the  mountain  white  pine.  Other  good 
natives  are  P.  ponderosa,  the  yellow  pine,  P.  Torrey- 
ana,  the  Soledad  Pine,  P.  Parryana  or  quadrifolia, 
the  nut  pine,  P.  Lambertiana,  the  sugar  pine,  P. 
Coulteri,  the  big  cone  pine,  and  P.  monophylla,  the 
single-leaved  pine. 

TREES  FOR  ALKALINE  SOILS 

Nearly  all  the  eucalypts  and  the  single-leaved 
acacias  are  very  tolerant  of  alkali.  Especially  are 
the  following  excellent:  Acacias;  armata,  shrub, 
cyanophylla,  longifolia,  pycnantha,  saligna.  Euca- 
lypts: amygdalina,  cornuta,  rostrata  and  robusta, 
are  well  suited  to  all  saline  soils. 


IN   CALIFORNIA 


55 


In  conifers  we  have  the  following  pines :  balsamea, 
halepensis,  laricio,  maritima,  radiata;  also  red 
cedar,  Juniperus  Virginica;  Monterey  cypress, 
Cupressus  macrocarpa ;  all  melaleucas ;  M.  leucaden- 

dron  is  per- 
haps  the 
most  toler- 
ant of  alka- 
line or  sa- 
line soils  of 
any  tree; 
St.  John's 
bread,  Cera- 
tonia  sili- 
qua ;  and  the 
common 
date  palm, 
Phoenix  dac- 
tylifera. 

In  decidu- 
ous trees  you 
may  plant 
all  willows 
and  poplars ; 
the  swamp 
locust,  Gle- 

ditschia  monosperma;  a  swamp-loving  ash,  Alnus 
glutinosus;  the  European  sycamore  maple,  Acer 
pseudo-platanus ;  and  the  Chinese  tree  of  heaven, 
Ailanthus  glandulosa.  In  shrubs  use:  Melaleucas, 
metrosideros,  callistemons,  tamarisk,  plumbago,  lep- 
tospermum,  myoporum,  genistas  or  cytisus,  and 
willows. 

SHRUBBY  HARBINGERS  OF  SPRING 
Among  the  many  excellent  deciduous  shrubs  suit- 


PROPER  PRUNING 


56 


THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 


able  to  California,  none  is  lovelier  than  the  common 
bridal  wreath,  Spirea  Cantonensis,  also  known  by 
the  trade  name  of  S.  Reevesiana.  For  the  large  gar- 
den a  few  scarlet-flowering  quinces,  grown  in  a  mass 
or  thicket,  are  almost  indispensable.  In  favorable 
locations  lilacs  and  snowballs  are  in  order,  but  not 
everywhere  do  they  thrive,  and  the  same  is  true  of 
the  syringa  or  mock  orange,  philadelphus.  Crataea- 
gus,  berberis,  cotoneaster,  weigelia,  deutzia,  snow- 
berry,  sweet  shrub,  dogwood,  althea  and  a  host  of 
others  might  be  listed  that  will  thrive  here. 

As  a  rule  all 
deciduous  shrubs 
(also  trees)  grow 
much  more  lux- 
uriantly in  the 
country  than  city. 
Owners  of  coun- 
try homes  will 
find  northern 
slopes  very  fav- 
o  r  a  b  1  e  to  the 
growth  of  nearly 
all  deciduous 
shrubs  and  some, 
as  the  hardy  hy- 
drangea, H.  pani- 
c  u  1  a  t  a  grandi- 
flora,  are  quickly 

burned  up  by  our  dry,  continuous  spring  heat.  The 
Japanese  snowball  is  another  subject  for  cooler 
slopes,  and  is  seldom  happy  in  the  city  garden.  The 
proper  time  to -prune  deciduous  shrubs  is  immedi- 
ately after  flowering,  giving  them  a  chance  to  make 
growth  of  flowering  wood  for  another  season. 


THE    RIGHT   AND   THE    AVRONG    WAY 

The  bolt  above  shows  proper  treatment  for 
a  splitting  fork.  The  lower  part  shows 
what  will  happen  if  a  band  is  used. 


CHAPTER  IV 

CLIMBERS  AND  TRAILERS 

In  nature  the  mission  of  the  vine  is  to  cover 
for  obscurity  or  for  protection  or  shelter  and  in  the 
garden  it  is  often  put  to  similar  uses.  But  the  vine 
has  other  and  nobler  uses.  Its  delicate  tracery  upon 
classic  or  other  pretentious  architecture  is  a  thing  of 
extreme  beauty  and  should  be  kept  with  this  end  in 
view,  under  complete  control.  It  is  sometimes  per- 
missible to  hide,  or  at  least  to  soften,  the  more  harsh 
and  monotonous  lines  of  architecture  by  the  judicious 
use  of  delicate  vines,  not  of  the  kinds,  however,  used 
to  obscure  unsightly  objects  or  cover  arbors.  Not  all 
vines  were  intended  for  the  same  mission  in  life,  and 
man  should  choose,  with  judgment  born  of  experi- 
ence and  based  on  observation,  where  each  should  go 

or  what  vines  to  use  for  specific  purposes. 

Whenever  that  stage  is  reached  where  vines  look 
heavy  and  cumbersome  they  should  be  thinned  out; 
the  necessity  of  this  in  connection  with  the  desira- 
bility of  light,  graceful  effects,  goes  far  to  prove  the 
claim  that  climbing  roses  are  unfitted  for  house  deco- 
ration. It  is  far  better  to  grow  them  on  fences,  over 
arbors,  pergolas,  or  outbuildings  of  little  importance 
to  the  landscape.  One  most  important  point  is  that 
the  house  must  be  first  considered.  It  is  the  one  im- 
portant object,  not  the  vine  or  vines;  they  should 
decorate  the  house  with  a  fitting  drapery  and  not 
make  a  vinery  with  patches  of  building  peeping  out. 
The  lines  of  architecture  should  be  softened  but  not 
obscured. 


58  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

EVERGREEN  CLIMBERS 

Akebia  lobata  and  A.  quinata  are  climbing  bar- 
berries bearing  short  racemes  of  small  brownish  pur- 
ple flowers,  natives  to  China  and  Japan. 

Asparagus  plumosus  is  a  very  popular  climber  for 
shady  places,  and  for  a  low-growing  vine  or  a  hanger 
for  vases  or  window  boxes  A.  decumbens  or  A.  de- 
flexus  are  very  good.  These  are  natives  of  Africa. 

Beaumontia  grandiflora,  a  tropical  climber,  suited 
only  to  frostless  localities,  has  very  large  white,  bell- 
shaped  flowers  that  are  of  such  size  that  they  have 
been  likened  to  lilies. 

The  bignonias  are  very  close  to  the  tecomas  and 
all  are  known  as  trumpet  flowers.  B.  venusta,  the 
one  with  orange-yellow  flowers,  is  one  of  the  most 
gorgeous  flowering  vines  known  to  California.  B. 
Tweediana  has  large  yellow  flowers  and  easily  clings 
to  walls.  B.  violacea  has  violet  flowers,  and  B. 
Cherere  has  blossoms  of  blood-red. 

The  bougainvilleas,  though  having  insignificant 
yellow  flowers,  bear  floral  bracts  of  most  brilliant 
hue.  All  save  one  species  have  bracts  of  magenta  or 
a  closely  allied  shade.  The  variety  known  as  B. 
lateritia  has  brick-red  floral  bracts,  and  while  the 
showiest  of  all  is  also  the  most  tender. 

Cissus  discolor  and  C.  rhombifolia  are  for  the 
house  and  warm  locations  only,  such  as  window 
boxes,  hanging  baskets,  etc.  Foliage  resembles  be- 
gonia leaves. 

Clianthus  puniceus  is  an  Australian  vine,  bearing 
showy  red  flowers  that  have  given  it  the  popular 
name  of  parrot's  bill.  C.  Dampieri  is  a  beautiful 
trailer,  hard  to  grow,  from  the  desert  regions  of  New 
Zealand  and  is  called  New  Zealand  glory  pea. 

Cobea  scandens  and  its  white  variety  hail  from 


IN   CALIFORNIA  59 

Mexico  and  have  flowers  closely  resembling  the  com- 
mon Canterbury  bells.  The  type  has  purple  flowers. 
A  "rough"  climber. 

Dioclea  glycinoides  has  flowers  much  like  the  clian- 
thus  but  smaller  and  of  darker  red ;  really  a  crimson. 
It  does  not  grow  so  large  nor  so  rapidly  as  the  par- 
rot's bill. 

Dolichos  lignosus,  the  Australian  pea,  also  its 
white  variety,  is  a  small-leaved,  quick-growing  vine 
that  makes  a  fine  close  cover  where  frosts  are  not 
too  heavy.  The  former  bears  pink  and  white 
flowers. 

Evonymus  radicans  is  a  climbing  or  trailing  shrub 
with  very  small  leaves  and  will  cling  by  aerial  root- 
lets to  walls  of  brick,  stone,  or  concrete.  There  is 
also  a  variety  with  variegated  foliage. 

Ficus  pumila,  better  known  as  F.  repens,  is  the 
most  popular  of  all  evergreen  vines  for  covering 
walls  as  it  will  attach  itself  to  anything  that  is  slight- 
ly roughter  than  a  pane  of  glass.  It  bears  no  visible 
flowers  as  it  is  a  climbing  fig. 

Hardenbergias,  sometimes  known  as  Kennedyas, 
have  pea-shaped  blossoms  of  white,  pink,  or  purple. 
The  plants  being  very  much  alike  in  general  appear- 
ance, one  chooses  the  color  wished  for  in  the  flower 
and  orders  the  species  bearing  it. 

Hedera  helix  and  its  many  varieties  are  known  as 
English  ivy,  Irish  ivy,  etc.,  being  the  only  true  ivies. 
They  cling  tenaciously  to  any  wall  and  grow  well  in 
sun  or  shade ;  perhaps  the  most  popular  of  all  vines 
for  shady  places. 

The  wax  plant,  Hoya  carnosa,  is  a  handsome 
climber  which  does  best  in  shady  places,  or  it  may 
be  used  as  a  trellised  pot  plant  for  porch  or  house. 


60  THE   GARDEN    BEAUTIFUL 

The  flowers  come  in  numerous  umbels  of  delicate 
pink  and  are  wax-like  in  texture. 

Loniceras  are  the  honeysuckles,  of  which  we  have 
several  species  and  varieties.  All  are  fairly  hardy, 
will  thrive  in  any  soil  or  position  and  produce  a  fra- 
grance when  in  bloom  that  makes  their  presence 
known  at  a  very  considerable  distance.  They  are 
splendid  all-purpose  vines. 

Muehlenbeckia  complexa,  the  wire  vine,  is  a  native 
of  New  Zealand,  where  it  climbs  over  and  obtains  a 
foothold  in  the  rocks  where  no  soil  is  in  evidence, 
right  on  the  bare  sea-wall  and  within  the  spray  of 
salt  water.  It  will  therefore  thrive  on  the  misty 
beach  or  in  the  driest  situations. 

Jasmines  are  common  in  all  parts  of  California 
and  we  grow  at  least  a  half  dozen  hardy  species  hav- 
ing mostly  white  flowers,  though  Jasminum  primu- 
linum,  having  primrose-yellow  flowers,  is  the  jewel 
of  the  lot,  and  J.  humile,  known  as  J.  revolutum,  is 
a  half-shrubby  species  also  having  yellow  flowers. 
There  are  no  poor  species  of  jasmines. 

Passion  vines  are  not  so  popular  as  they  were  a 
score  of  years  ago  for  they  are  usually  attacked  by 
hordes  of  caterpillars  which  quickly  and  completely 
defoliate  them.  They  have  white,  blue,  or  purple 
flowers ;  and  one,  the  best  of  the  lot,  Passiflora  prin- 
ceps,  has  half -closed,  drooping  bells  of  dull  red. 

We  usually  grow  but  one  phaseolus  as  an  orna- 
mental, P.  caracalla,  the  snail  vine,  bearing  curious, 
large,  snail-like  flowers  of  purple  and  yellow. 

Pithecoctenium  muricatum  has  a  name  all  out  of 
proportion  to  its  small  white  and  yellow  trumpet 
flowers.  It  is,  however,  a  free  bloomer  and  is  closely 
allied  to  the  bignonias. 

Everyone   knows   the   lovely   blue   of   Plumbago 


IN   CALIFORNIA  61 

capensis,  one  of  the  most  drouth-resistant  of  all 
vines  or  shrubs.  The  less  water  it  has  the  more  will 
it  bloom.  There  is  also  a  white  variety. 

Solandra  guttata,  the  copa  de  oro,  has  the  largest 
flowers  of  any  climbing  shrub,  but  alas,  it  will  grow 
only  in  situations  well  protected  from  frosts.  Its 
giant  cups  of  old-gold  are  several  inches  across  the 
mouth  and  strikingly  handsome,  while  their  great 
size  attracts  the  attention  of  every  beholder. 

In  the  solanums  we  have  several  species  bearing 
white  or  blue  flowers  and  ranging  in  size  from  those 
of  the  small  S.  jasminoides  (potato  vine)  up  to  the 
azure-blue  giants  of  Solanum  Wendlandi. 

Sollya  heterophylla,  the  Australian  blue  bell,  is 
as  much  of  a  shrub  as  a  climber,  but  it  has  the 
bluest  of  flowers  and  though  they  are  small  they 
never  fail  to  attract  attention. 

A  lovely,  somewhat  tender  plant  is  Stigmaphyllon 
ciliatum,  the  orchid  vine,  with  golden  yellow  flowers 
in  pendulous  bunches  or  corymbs,  each  flower  an 
inch  across  and  delicately  fringed. 

The  tacsonias  are  closely  allied  to  the  passion 
vines  but  differ  most  distinctly  in  the  color  of  the 
flowers,  those  of  passion  vines  being  white,  blue, 
or  purple,  while  the  tacsonias  bear  pink,  scarlet,  or 
red  blossoms. 

In  the  trumpet  flowers,  so-called,  which  comprise 
the  bignonias  and  tecomas,  we  have  many  colors, 
and  some  of  the  tecomas  are  deciduous.  The  flowers 
are  pink,  orange-red,  and  red.  See  also  bignonias 
and  list  of  deciduous  vines  for  there  is  much  confu- 
sion of  names. 

There  is  a  vine  that  by  reason  of  its  provocatively 
long  name  should  be  ruled  out  of  popular  lists  except 
that  it  is  a  beautiful  climbing  plant  belonging  to  the 


62  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

popular  jasmine  family.  It  is  called  the  star  jasmine 
and  has  creamy-white  star-shaped  blossoms,  borne  in 
great  profusion.  Its  botanical  name  is  Trachelos- 
permum  jasminoides,  but  the  dealers  usually  call  it 
rhyncospermum,  which  is  no  easier  for  the  average 
layman's  tongue. 

Of  late  years  two  or  three  species,  or  varieties  of 
one  species,  of  evergreen  grape  from  South  Africa, 
have  been  added  to  the  list  of  desirable  climbers.  At 
first  we  had  but  one  form,  under  the  name  of  Vitis 
capensis,  but  later  others  have  appeared,  quite  simi- 
lar in  general  appearance,  and  all  good.  They  are 
listed  as :  V.  Baudiana,  V.  hyper-glauca,  V.  rhombi- 
folia,  and  V.  rupestris. 

DECIDUOUS  CLIMBERS 

Ampelopsis  quinquefolia  is  known  as  Virginia 
creeper  or  woodbine,  while  A.  tricuspidata, 
Veitchi,  is  called  Japan  ivy,  and  occasionally  Bos- 
ton ivy,  though  why  the  latter  name  we  cannot  tell 
for  it  is  native  to  Japan  and  China  and  came  to  this 
country  from  England. 

Antigonon  leptopus,  the  rosa  de  montana,  or 
mountain  rose,  is  a  quick-growing  vine  that  during 
summer  bears  a  mass  of  pink  flowers  that  one 
grower  of  it  likens  to  "small  pink  hops." 

Aristolochia  in  several  species,  one  of  which  is 
called  Dutchman's  pipe,  are  climbers  with  curious 
rather  than  beautiful  blossoms. 

Asparagus  medioloides  is  the  smilax  of  florists,  a 
bulbous  plant  with  a  beautiful  vine  growth  produced 
annually.  A  splendid  plant  for  shaded  positions. 

Clematis  are  so  well  known  as  scarcely  to  need 
mention.  The  small-flowering  sorts  make  dense 
vines,  while  the  large-flowered  section  run  all  to 


IN   CALIFORNIA  63 

blossoms,  some  of  the  latter  being  as  much  as  ten 
inches  in  diameter.  In  color  they  range  from  white 
to  deepest  purple,  with  every  possible  intervening 
shade. 

Decumaria  is  a  little  known  climber,  clinging  by 
aerial  rootlets,  hardy,  fragrant  in  blossom  and 
known  as  the  climbing  snowball. 

Humulus,  the  hop  vine,  is  a  splendid  plant  for 
quick  summer  covering  and  provides  a  dense  shade. 
Although  normally  green  there  is  a  handsome  varie- 
gated variety.  Both  send  forth  each  spring  from 
perennial  roots. 

Mandevilla  is  known  as  the  Chilean  jasmine  for 
the  reason  that  the  flowers  are  quite  similar  to  those 
of  the  jasmines,  but  are  larger  and  more  fragrant. 

Pueraria  Thunbergiana  is  the  Japanese  kuzu  vine 
(erroneously  spelled  kudzu),  remarkable  for  the 
vigor  of  its  growth,  often  attaining  50  or  more  feet 
in  length  each  season  and  bearing  immense  leaves. 

Tecoma  radicans  and  its  varieties  are  hardy  de- 
ciduous trumpet  vines,  native  to  the  eastern  part  of 
the  United  States  and  popular  everywhere. 

All  are  familiar  with  the  Chinese  wistaria 
(named  for  Dr.  Wistar,  an  American),  which  is  pop- 
ular the  world  over.  It  may  be  had  with  white,  lilac, 
or  purple  flowers,  and  one  variety  has  double  flowers. 

Heat-resistant  vines  are :  Virginia  creeper,  Am- 
pelopsis  quinquef olia ;  Boston  or  Japan  ivy,  A.  tri- 
cuspidata;  and  the  Japanese  honeysuckle,  Lonicera 
Japonica.  The  plumbago  may  be  used  for  either 
climber  or  shrub  according  to  the  way  it  is  trained. 

PRODUCTIVE  SUMMER  ARBORS 

There  are  many  gardens  where  vines  of  pumpkins, 
squashes,  gourds,  etc.,  have  been  used  to  good  effect 
for  summer  arbors.  In  one  yard,  without  a  tree, 


64  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

there  was  a  space  of  six  feet  between  a  fence  three 
feet  high  and  the  house.  A  few  light  battens  were 
run  from  top  of  fence  to  bottom  of  windows  on  the 
house  at  a  height  of  about  six  or  seven  feet.  On 
these  battens  was  fastened  two-inch  mesh  chicken 
wire  and  squash  vines  allowed  to  clamber  over  all 
in  early  spring.  All  summer  this  arbor  proved  a 
cool,  shady  and  wholesome  retreat  for  children  from 
all  over  that  neighborhood.  A  load  of  river  sand 
on  the  ground  beneath  keeps  it  a  popular  resort 
throughout  the  year. 

MISUSE  OF  VINES 

Many  of  our  home  owners  have  the  "vine  habit" 
in  chronic  form;  everything  possible  is  weighted 
down  with  an  excess  of  overgrown  and  often  inap- 
propriate climbers.  When  they  are  used  to  cover 
bare,  unsightly  walls  and  ugly  buildings  a  justifica- 
tion exists  for  allowing  them  to  grow  rampant  and 
riotous,  but  where  used  for  ornament  alone  they 
must  be  kept  in  check.  Their  delicate  tracery  upon 
buildings  is  decidedly  one  of  greatest  beauty,  but 
they  should  never  be  allowed  to  grow  so  as  to  ob- 
scure good  architecture. 

There  are  buildings  so  inexpressibly  ugly  that 
anything  that  would  cover  would  be  pardonable,  but 
such  examples  are  rare,  and  generally  he  who  has 
such  poor  staste  in  building  lacks  sufficient  love 
for  plant  life  to  use  vines  at  all.  The  greatest 
abuse  of  vines  really  comes  from  those  who 
have  more  or  less  love  for  them,  coupled  with  a 
faulty  judgment  regarding  the  standard  of  beauty 
as  exemplified  in  plant  life.  Nearly  all  vines  get 
bare  and  ugly  below  with  years  of  growth  and  nearly 
all  need  to  be  replaced  every  few  years. 


THREE    CALIFORNIA    ROCK    GARDENS 
1.     Red    Sandstone.     2.     Gray    Granite.     3.     Boulders. 


CHAPTER  V 
ROCKERIES  AND  FERNERIES 

Who  that  has  wandered  up  canyons  and  over  hills 
doubts  for  a  moment  that  we  may  have  beautiful 
rock  gardens.  Those  time-toned  rocks  covered  with 
moss  and  lichens  provide  in  themselves  a  foundation 
of  unusual  beauty  and  interest  and  the  plants  which 
may  be  used  for  further  embellishment  are  so  num- 
erous as  to  defeat  a  desire  to  list  them  in  a  brief 
treatise  for  the  amateur.  Sunny  rock  gardens  may 
very  fittingly  be  combined  with  cactus  or  desert  gar- 
dens and  prove  as  great  an  attraction  and  evoke  as 
much  interest  as  any  feature  in  the  home  grounds. 

Every  possessor  of  a  garden,  however  limited  in 
area,  can  spare  a  shaded  corner  for  a  collection  of 
ferns  and  their  allies.  With  the  natives  may  be 
mixed  some  of  the  hardy  sorts  on  sale  at  nurseries, 
for  as  a  state  California  leads  the  nation  on  ferns, 
Florida  being  a  close  second.  Their  chief  require- 
ment is  shade,  more  particularly  from  the  afternoon 
sun,  so  that  the  east  or  north  side  of  the  house  is  best. 
In  this  state  where  they  have  to  be  watered  artifi- 
cially they  may  be  planted  under  trees,  though  they 
must  be  kept  well  watered  or  the  tree  will  draw 
all  the  moisture  away  from  them.  Our  native  kinds 
range  from  the  little  "golden-backs"  only  two  inches 
high,  up  to  the  woodwardia  of  deep  canyons  which 
often  exceed  six  feet  in  height.  All  are  easy  to  grow. 

BUILDING  THE  ROCKERY 

Lay  out  the  shape  of  your  rockery  on  the  ground 
and  use  your  largest  stones  first.  Don't  have  the  de- 


66  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

sign  round,  square,  triangular,  or  any  particular 
shape,  but  as  irregular  as  possible,  just  as  though 
it  happened  to  be  where  you  wanted  it.  Let  the  stones 
touch  each  other  and  put  your  plants  just  back  of 
the  place  where  two  stones  meet. 

Now  fill  up  the  inside  or  core  with  soil  until  it  is 
level  with  the  top  of  the  rockwork,  and  do  this  with 
each  tier  of  stones  as  you  build  up.  In  placing  the 
second  and  subsequent  tiers,  draw  each  one  in  slight- 
ly, yet  not  too  evenly,  neither  too  fast,  or  your  rock- 
ery will  be  finished  too  soon  and  also  be  too  flat  and 
smooth.  Be  careful  that  the  shape  is  not  too  regular 
as  you  go  up,  but  have  it  full  of  little  canyons  and 
mesas  with  the  top  as  irregular  as  possible.  Also 
allow  some  of  the  roughest  and  most  picturesque 
rocks  to  stand  out  boldly  above  the  rest. 

Be  sure  to  keep  the  soil  well  watered  all  the  time 
you  are  at  the  job,  for  it  is  a  very  difficult  matter 
to  get  it  wet  all  through  when  finished  in  case  it  be- 
comes dry  during  construction.  Soil  for  such  work 
should  be  of  a  light  and  porous  nature,  very  friable, 
yet  without  much  sand,  as  sand  washes  away  too 
easily.  Better  have  plenty  of  leaf  mold  if  obtainable, 
for  it  contains  plant  food  agreeable  to  all  vegetable 
life.  If  you  have  a  large  place  and  can  get  plenty  of 
rocks  the  effect  will  be  greatly  improved  by  the  free 
use  of  dwarf  or  prostrate-growing  shrubs. 

WHERE  TO  BUILD 

A  rockery  properly  located  and  tastefully  arranged 
is  capable  of  affording  much  interest  and  pleasure 
to  those  who  can  appreciate  the  beauties  of  nature. 
The  simplest  form  of  rockwork  may  be  described  as 
an  irregular  mound  of  soil  covered  with  stones,  and 
a  secluded  spot  or  corner  of  the  pleasure  grounds, 
shaded  by  trees,  but  not  necessarily  directly  under 


IN   CALIFORNIA  67 

them,  is  the  position  for  a  rockwork  of  the  kind  in 
question.  Here,  concealed  from  all  points  by  an  in- 
closure  of  shrubbery,  or  by  an  evergreen  hedge,  and 
approached  by  a  rustic  pathway  through  a  leafy 
thicket,  the  rockery  may  be  located  without  any  vio- 
lation of  good  taste  or  interference  with  other 
and  more  ambitious  features  of  a  large  and  varied 
garden. 

Border  rockeries  to  fill  up  large  or  unsightly  angles 
of  the  residence  or  other  buildings  are  somewhat 
rare,  owing  largely  to  the  fact  that  a  majority  of  all 
California  houses  are  built  of  wood.  Even  in  such 
cases  we  may  cheaply  and  safely  provide  against  de- 
cay and  dampness.  Build  a  background  of  rough 
redwood,  place  narrow  strips,  for  "furring"  between 
it  and  the  house  sides,  and  the  clear  and  clean  air- 
space will  keep  the  house  dry  and  the  paint  un- 
spoiled. Such  provision  was  made  in  the  case  of 
some  of  the  border  rockeries  shown  in  our  chapter 
frontispiece,  all  of  which  were  built  by  the  author's 
hands. 

WILD  GARDENS 

If  the  author  had  a  large  suburban  garden  he 
would  have  a  natural  or  wild  rock  garden  that  would 
be  just  a  riot  of  rocks  and  dry  garden  plants  that 
would  not  be  figuratively  calling  for  water  and  care 
during  our  hot  summer.  Rocks  should  be  large, 
small,  on  hills,  banks,  and  flat  ground,  in  holes,  cor- 
ners, nooks — everywhere — no  orderliness  or  design 
but  just  careless  disposition — no  strained  effects  but 
as  near  as  possible  to  what  nature  would  do  with 
them.  One  should  get  all  the  rocks  he  can  use 
and  still  have  soil  enough  to  give  the  scene  a  good 
touch  of  plant  life. 

For  plants  use  any  that  will  grow.     Vile  weeds 


68  THE  GARDEN  BEAUTIFUL 

should  be  rooted  out,  but  wild  tobacco,  bush  lotus, 
humming-bird  flower,  the  tiny  flat  milkweed,  or 
euphorbia,  or  any  natives  bearing  well  the  summer 
drouth  should  be  encouraged.  Visits  to  the  neigh- 
boring hills,  mountains  and  canyons  would  disclose 
a  wealth  of  plants  for  rocky  situations  in  both  shade 
and  sun  where  little  soil  or  water  is  available.  Plants 
for  rockeries  may  be  of  any  and  all  kinds,  for  in  a 
large  rockery  may  be  found  every  situation  pre- 
sented in  a  garden.  Ferns  and  shade  plants  should 
go  on  the  north  or  shaded  sides,  angles,  or  nooks, 
while  sedums  and  stone-crops,  with  cacti  and  other 
heat-loving  succulents,  may  occupy  the  sunnier  ex- 
posures. 

CACTUS  GARDENS 

One  of  the  chief  charms  of  a  cactus  garden  is  the 
great  number  of  similar  plants  which  not  only  thrive 
under  like  treatment,  but  are  often  so  near  the  cacti 
in  appearance  as  to  be  mistaken  for  them  when  not 
in  bloom.  A  full  collection  of  succulents,  as  this  class 
of  plants  is  called,  affords  a  richer  and  more  inter- 
esting field  for  study  than  any  other  branch  or  phase 
of  plant  life.  They  are  splendid  subjects  for  ele- 
vated rockeries,  for  drainage  should  be  of  the  best 
in  order  to  maintain  cacti  in  good  health. 

No  family  of  plants  recommends  itself  to  the  ama- 
teur gardener  more  highly  than  the  cactus  group.  At 
no  time  do  cacti  need  more  than  ordinary  care,  and 
after  once  established  they  may  almost  as  well  be 
left  alone  except  for  an  occasional  weeding.  Most 
of  them  have  to  endure  in  their  native  habitat  great 
extremes  of  heat,  and  in  some  places  on  our  Amer- 
ican deserts  the  snowfall  is  considerable,  so  that  the 
question  of  climate  need  not  perplex  the  prospective 
grower.  In  all  cases  the  soil  should  be  well  drained, 


IN   CALIFORNIA  69 

yet  some  of  our  California  species  grow  in  heavy 
adobe. 

The  cactus  family  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most 
varied  of  any  in  the  vegetable  kingdom  and  has 
in  combination  more  grotesque  and  curious  forms 
with  beautiful  flowers  than  any  other  group  of  culti- 
vated plants.  In  size  they  vary  from  little  gems 
less  than  an  inch  in  height  and  diameter  to  giants 
of  sixty  feet,  three  feet  through  the  trunk,  with  so 
many  curious  forms  as  to  completely  baffle  descrip- 
tion. In  size  the  flowers  have  no  such  range,  but 
several  are  more  than  a  foot  long  and,  when  in  full 
bloom,  of  the  same  diameter  across  the  mouth.  No 
family  of  plants  can  surpass  the  exquisite  shades 
of  color  to  be  found  in  cacti,  ranging  from  white  to 
crimson,  all  with  a  beautiful  satiny  finish. 

WALL  GARDENS 

This  phase  of  gardening  is  a  success  in  any  cli- 
mate, but  is  especially  easy  of  finished  luxuriance 
in  a  humid  atmosphere.  Near  the  coast  should  prove 
ideal,  and  a  rough  rock  wall  fronting  the  ocean 
would  serve  splendidly  to  protect  the  garden,  and 
the  stones  could  be  covered  on  both  sides.  Muehlen- 
beckia  complexa,  the  wire  vine  from  New  Zealand, 
could  be  grown  on  the  ocean  side,  right  next  to  the 
wave-washed  sands,  and  in  a  short  while  would  so 
cover  and  bind  the  rocks  together  as  to  make  a 
permanent  protection.  On  the  seawall  in  its  native 
country  this  vine  flourishes  right  in  the  ocean  spray. 

It  would  be  preferable  to  have  this  wall  widest  at 
bottom  and  batter  or  slope  from  each  side  to  a  nar- 
rower top.  If  a  core  of  good  soil  could  be  provided 
and  flat  or  broken  rocks  "rip-rapped"  up  the  sides 
success  would  be  assured.  On  the  inside  of  the  wall 
could  be  planted,  with  assurance  of  vigorous  growth, 


70  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

many  sorts  of  plants  needing  but  little  water.  Care 
should  be  taken  in  watering  until  the  plants  are 
firmly  established  or  the  soil  will  be  washed  away. 
A  light  but  very  frequent  spraying  should  be  the 
program.  While  building,  the  soil  should  be  kept 
rather  wet  and  packed,  and  after  each  watering  look 
over  the  wall  and  fill  all  chinks  and  cracks  where 
soil  has  washed  away  or  settled  from  surface.  The 
common  cobbles  or  boulders  are  the  very  poorest  of 
all  material  for  such  work.  Quarried  or  slab  stone 
is  best,  and  if  it  is  soft  and  porous  so  it  will  hold 
water  and  grow  mossy,  the  effect  will  be  much  more 
pleasing  than  with  hard,  impervious  rock.  This 
class  of  work  would  add  a  pleasing  variety  to  many 
gardens. 

A  FINE  WALL  PLANT 

Growers  of  cacti  and  other  succulents  suitable  for 
rock  gardens  admire  one  of  the  large  stone  crops 
(Sedum  spectabile)  which  is  handsome  in  foliage 
and  produces  large  trusses  of  fine  pink  flowers 
throughout  a  very  considerable  portion  of  the  year. 
For  the  driest  situations  and  poorest  soils  it  has 
much  to  commend  it,  for  under  circumstances  and 
conditions  necessarily  fatal  to  most  plants  it  thrives 
marvelously.  Given  heavy,  rich  soil  with  plenty  of 
water,  it  runs  all  to  vegetative  growth,  produces  no 
flowers  and  often  rots  away  in  the  roots.  Even  then 
the  tops  readily  root  and  soon  blossom  if  left  lying 
on  dry  soil. 


THE    AMERICAN    CONE-FLOWER,    GO.LDEN    GLOW 
Rudbeckia   laciniata   flore- plena 


CHAPTER  VI 
ANNUALS  AND  PERENNIALS 

Let  us  grow  flowers  everywhere,  for  aside  from 
our  own  pleasure  they  may  perchance  brighten  the 
life  and  awaken  a  love  of  flowers  in  many  now  wholly 
or  partially  indifferent  to  their  existence.  How  in- 
consistent to  heap  flowers  upon  the  casket  of  one 
who  in  life  cared  no  more  for  them  than  did  the  dog 
who  followed  at  his  heels,  if  we  make  no  effort  to  in- 
terest and  attract  those  now  living.  Eyes  that  see 
not,  figuratively,  may  often  be  made  to  see  literally 
the  beauties  of  nature.  We  owe  it  to  our  kind  of 
every  race  to  clothe  the  earth  with  beauty  so  far  as 
it  lies  within  our  power.  There  are  few  so  unfor- 
tunately situated  that  they  may  not  gladden  the  sight 
of  all  by  making  one  or  more  flowers  blossom  where 
none  grew  or  blossomed  before. 

SUCCESSION  OF  BLOOM 

In  arranging  your  garden  try  to  so  plant  that  you 
will  have  a  succession  of  bloom  throughout  the  year. 
It  is  comparatively  easy  to  accomplish  this  with  the 
long  lists  of  annuals  and  perennials  at  hand,  but  it 
may  be  done  with  annuals  alone,  especially  if  care 
is  taken  to  cut  back  some  of  those  that  grew  straggly 
and  top-heavy  after  the  first  flush  of  blossoming. 

When  planting  annuals  select  some  that  are  cap- 
able of  rejuvenation  in  midsummer,  otherwise  there 
will  be  few  flowers  in  late  summer  just  before  the 
autumn  crop  is  available.  This  neglect  is  a  mistake 
common  with  gardeners,  so  that  about  August  and 


72  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

September  the  places  under  their  charge  become 
ragged,  colorless  and  unsightly.  Annuals  common 
everywhere  that  may  be  cut  back  and  rejuvenated 
in  midsummer  are:  Achillea,  alyssum,  calliopsis, 
marigold,  pinks,  nasturtium  and  Phlox  Drummondi. 
After  cutting  back  give  them  a  light  feed  of  bone- 
meal,  keep  free  from  weeds  and  stir  the  soil  lightly 
wherever  it  is  possible.  There  are  many  other  an- 
nuals which  may  be  cut  back  and  a  fresh  crop  of 
flowers  brought  out. 

NATIVE  CALIFORNIA  ANNUALS 

No  wild  flowers  in  the  world  are  superior  to  those 
native  to  California,  and  to  visitors  from  other  states 
and  other  countries  they  prove  most  attractive  and 
interesting.  The  following  list  is  especially  recom- 
mended as  one  of  native  annuals  that  are  low  in 
price,  requiring  no  care  after  planting  except  weed- 
ing, and  successive  crops  of  seeds  may  easily  be  har- 
vested from  them  by  any  intelligent  child,  thus  plac- 
ing them  within  reach  of  all  classes  for  all  time.  The 
first  five  are  especially  recommended  for  parkway  or 
garden,  and  all  are  desirable  for  either  purpose. 
None  requiring  special  care,  position  or  exposure 
have  been  included,  but  all  are  the  hardiest  of  the 
hardy. 

Eschscholtzia  Calif ornica,  California  poppy;  too 
well  known  to  need  description.  In  reality  a  peren- 
nial, but  usually  treated  as  an  annual. 

Lupinus  nanus,  the  dwarf  blue  lupine.  An  annual 
ten  to  fifteen  inches  high;  a  very  showy  plant, 
branching  from  the  base;  stems  and  leaves  hairy. 
Flowers  in  small  racemes,  rich  blue  and  white,  fra- 
grant. Very  effective  for  sowing  in  masses. 

Layia  elegans,  tidy  tips.  Annual,  one  to  two  feet 
high.  A  yellow  daisy  edged  with  white  or  cream 


IN  CALIFORNIA  73 

color.  Leaves  narrow  with  gracefully-toothed  mar- 
gins. One  of  our  most  common  and  most  popular 
wild  flowers. 

Any  one  or  all  three  of  the  following  species  of 
gilia:  Gilia  achillaefolia,  blue  gilia,  annual  one 
to  one  and  a  half  feet  high,  with  small  lavender-blue 
flowers  in  dense  heads  on  graceful  slender  stems,  and 
light  feathery  leaves.  Gilia  capitata,  another  blue 
gilia;  also  annual,  one  and  a  half  to  two  and  a  half 
feet  high,  a  slender-growing,  somewhat  branched 
plant,  with  finely-cut  foliage  and  compact  heads  of 
light  blue  flowers.  Gilia  tri-color,  bird's  eyes.  An 
annual  nine  inches  to  one  foot  high;  flowers  pale 
lilac,  yellow  toward  the  center,  with  five  purple  spots, 
a  charming  combination  of  colors. 

Mentzelia  Lindleyi,  blazing  star.  Annual,  two  to 
three  feet  high,  yellowish  stems;  deeply-toothed 
green  leaves.  Flowers  large,  of  delicate  silken  tex- 
ture, color  a  rich  golden  yellow.  One  of  the  most 
brilliant  of  all  native  flowers,  especially  valuable  for 
sowing  in  dry,  sandy  or  rocky  places,  continuing  in 
flower  until  midsummer. 

Other  desirable  sorts  are:  Lupinus  affinis,  blue 
lupine,  one  to  two  feet  high ;  Clarkia  elegans,  purple, 
two  to  three  feet  high;  Coreopsis  Stillmani,  or  C. 
Douglasi,  both  yellow,  six  to  twelve  inches ;  Godetia 
amoena,  bottae,  or  grandiflora,  all  pink  or  pink  with 
crimson  spots,  one  to  two  feet  high;  Collinsia  bi- 
color,  white,  lilac,  and  purple,  one  to  two  feet  high ; 
Linanthus  densiflorus,  rose  pink  or  lilac,  one  to  two 
feet  high ;  Nemophila  insignis  and  N.  maculata,  blue, 
four  to  eight  inches ;  Phacelia  Whitlavia,  purple,  one 
foot  high;  Salvia  carduacea,  light  blue,  one  to  two 
feet  high. 


74  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

EXOTIC  AND  HYBRID  ANNUALS 

In  annuals  not  native  to  California,  I  would  rec- 
ommend the  following  list,  also  beginning  with  the 
five  best  in  the  order  given. 

Calendula,  Prince  of  Orange.  Annual,  one  foot 
high.  Flowers  large  and  double  and  of  rich  orange 
color.  The  best  of  the  so-called  marigolds. 

Linum  rubrum,  the  scarlet  flax.  One  to  two  feet 
high,  of  a  most  brilliant  scarlet;  seed  self-sowing 
very  freely. 

Mixed  annual  larkspurs,  one  to  two  feet  high,  in 
blue  and  white. 

Poppies,  especially  the  Shirley.  A  splendid  effect 
may  be  gained  by  sowing  with  them  either  oats  or 
canary  grass.  Colors  range  from  white  to  crimson 
with  black  blotches. 

Mixed  candytuft  in  white,  pinks,  lilac  and  car- 
mine, one  foot  high. 

Other  good  sorts  are :  Sweet  alyssum,  white,  six 
to  ten  inches ;  Calliopsis,  mixed,  one  to  two  feet  high, 
yellow  and  brown;  centaurea,  the  corn  flower,  one 
to  two  feet  high,  white,  lilac,  and  shades  of  blue; 
cosmos,  mixed,  sown  in  October  or  early  in  Novem- 
ber will  grow  but  one  to  three  feet,  in  white,  pink 
and  red;  French  marigold,  for  summer  flowering, 
one  to  two  feet,  yellows,  browns  and  reds;  nastur- 
tiums, great  range  of  colors ;  Phlox  Drummondi ;  one 
foot  high,  white,  pinks,  yellows,  scarlet  and  crim- 
son ;  portulaca,  all  colors,  for  summer  flowering ;  zin- 
nias, all  colors,  for  summer  flowering. 

THE  TRUE  POPPIES 

Owing  to  the  great  range  and  brilliancy  of  their 
colors,  the  true  poppies  are  favorites  in  nearly  every 
garden.  Added  to  this  the  ease  with  which  they 
grow  has  made  a  place  for  them  with  nearly  all  flow- 


IN   CALIFORNIA  75 

er  lovers.  Of  garden  poppies,  there  are  usually  culti- 
vated but  four  species :  The  opium  poppy,  the  corn 
poppy,  the  Iceland  poppy,  and  the  oriental  poppy. 
Of  these  the  opium  poppy  is  by  far  the  greatest 
favorite  and  has  the  largest  flowers  of  any  annual 
species.  Though  useless  for  cut  flowers,  the  plants 
are  tall  and  stately  and  bear  an  abundance  of  blos- 
soms in  brilliant  colors  so  that  people  are  content  to 
leave  the  flowers  unpicked. 

The  corn  poppy  is  more  dwarf  than  the  opium 
poppy*  with  finer-cut  leaves.  The  well-known  Shir- 
ley poppy  is  the  best  and  most  popular  strain  of  this 
species.  The  Iceland  poppy  is  a  perennial  species 
with  shades  of  red,  yellow,  and  white,  and  is  not 
much  grown  in  California.  With  many  garden  own- 
ers the  oriental  poppy  is  the  favorite  because  it  has 
the  largest  flowers  of  all  the  family.  In  the  East 
it  is  the  easiest  of  all  to  grow  either  from  seeds  or 
by  root  division,  but  in  our  state  the  air  seems  too 
dry.  Still,  it  grows  fairly  well  if  never  allowed  to 
suffer  for  moisture.  All  these  poppies  are  easy  of 
cultivation ;  all  like  rich  soil  and  a  generous  supply 
of  water.  Poppies  are  best  sown  broadcast  and 
should  be  weeded  until  they  get  a  good  start,  and 
then,  if  sown  thickly  enough,  they  will  care  for  them- 
selves, except  for  watering. 

SWEET  PEAS 

In  the  growing  of  sweet  peas  too  much  stress  can- 
not be  placed  upon  the  necessity  for  early  and  deep 
planting  if  vigorous  growth  and  luxuriant  bloom  are 
desired.  The  bed  should  be  prepared  some  time  in 
advance  of  planting  and  spaded  at  least  one  foot  in 
depth,  all  the  better  if  two  feet,  with  a  dressing  of 
three  inches  of  well  rotted  manure  spaded  in  and 
thoroughly  incorporated,  to  insure  the  roots  plenty 


76  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

of  protection  from  the  heat  later  on  and  deep  soil  to 
draw  upon,  for  they  are  gross  feeders.  Plant  the 
seed  at  least  two  inches  deep. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  show  the  slightest  tendency 
to  vine  they  should  be  provided  with  a  support  to 
which  the  tendrils  may  attach  themselves.  Nothing 
is  better  or  more  convenient  for  this  purpose  than 
wire  netting  which  may  be  purchased  by  the  yard. 
It  should  be  six  feet  high  for  the  winter  flowering 
varieties  and  eight  feet  for  the  Spencer  sorts. 

The  sweet  pea  is  one  of  the  thirstiest  of  plants, 
and  when  the  earth  and  atmosphere  give  forth  little 
moisture  should  daily  receive  a  generous  allowance 
of  water,  not  a  mere  sprinkling  but  a  drenching. 
This  neglect  to  water  regularly  and  thoroughly  ac- 
counts for  many  failures  in  sweet  pea  culture.  An- 
other essential  to  satisfactory  sweet  pea  growing  is 
a  sunny  exposure.  Those  grown  in  the  shade  are 
neither  so  thrifty  nor  is  the  bloom  so  rich  in  color 
or  so  abundant  as  when  grown  in  the  sun.  The  sweet 
pea  grower  should  remember  that  to  be  prodigal  in 
the  cutting  of  the  bloom  is  the  surest  way  to  secure 
an  increase.  The  seed  may  be  planted  early  in  the 
fall  of  the  year  with  excellent  results. 

HERBACEOUS  PERENNIALS 

Nothing  adds  more  of  quiet  charm  and  homelike- 
ness  to  a  garden  than  the  herbaceous  perennial  bor- 
der. It  is  adapted  to  gardens  of  any  style  or  any 
amount  of  care,  but  in  gardens  where  only  a  limited 
care  can  be  given,  those  that  are  occasionally  neg- 
lected for  a  time,  the  use  of  perennials  will  give 
much  more  satisfaction  than  annuals. 

Perennials  root  deeply  in  the  soil  and  most  of  them 
make  a  fine  fibrous  system,  often  running  into  thou- 
sands of  hair-like  roots  on  a  single  clump  of  plants. 


IN  CALIFORNIA  77 

Such  an  arrangement  well  fits  them  for  successfully 
enduring  drouths  and  periods  of  neglect.  Good  care 
must  of  necessity  be  given  the  first  summer  to  in- 
sure the  proper  development  of  a  feeding  system. 
Most  of  these  plants  will  grow  where  any  plant  will. 
Good  garden  soil,  warm  and  light,  rather  than  cold 
and  heavy,  is  preferable.  They  do  not  do  well  in 
wet  undrained  soil.  Fine  manure,  carefully  forked 
in  each  spring,  pays  in  better  plants  and  more 
flowers. 

There  is  no  part  of  a  garden  where  so  much  in 
the  way  of  good  flowers  may  be  cut  without  in  any 
manner  marring  the  general  effect,  for  it  is  neces- 
sary in  order  to  keep  up  the  floral  supply  that  the 
plants  be  freely  cut  away  in  the  flower-bearing 
spikes.  Some  lovely  effects  may  be  obtained  by  a 
judicious  arrangement  of  them  either  on  a  large  or 
small  scale.  An  ideal  position  for  such  borders  is 
where  the  background  of  a  hedge  or  fence  is  ob- 
tainable ;  in  front  of  this  in  beds  of  suitable  breadth 
and  length  with  preferably  irregular  outline  on  the 
outer  margin  arrange  the  various  plants,  grouping 
the  taller  specimens  in  the  background  and  the 
dwarf er  sorts  in  the  front. 

OLD  FASHIONED  FLOWERS 

They  ain't  no  style  about  'em, 

And  they're  sort  of  pale  and  faded; 

Yet  the  doorway  here,  without  'em, 

Would  be  lonesomer,  and  shaded 

With  a  good  deal  blacker  shadder 

Than  the  mornin'-glory  makes, 

And  the  sunshine  would  look  sadder, 

For  their  good  old-fashioned  sakes. — Riley. 

If  more  of  these  old-fashioned  perennials  were 
used  we  would  hear  far  less  about  having  "no  flow- 


78  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

ers  in  summer,"  and  "our  garden  is  so  bare  of  plants 
during  hot  weather."  The  perennials  among  the 
asters,  sunflowers,  and  some  others  are  not  so  large 
and  showy  as  the  annual  species,  but  are  much  easier 
to  grow,  and  their  permanence  makes  them  ex- 
tremely desirable  as  compared  with  the  annual 
species. 

There  is  here  appended  a  list  of  fifty  as  they  oc- 
cur to  the  author,  but  this  list  has  not  touched  upon 
some  classes  of  plants  and  could  be  extended  into 
the  hundreds:  ageratum,  anemone,  aster,  begonia, 
boltonia,  candytuft,  canna,  Canterbury  bell,  chrys- 
anthemum, coreopsis,  cuphea,  daisy,  dahlia,  day  lily, 
-  evening  primrose,  foxglove,  forget-me-not,  fuchsia, 
gaillardia,  geranium,  goldenrod,  grasses,  heliotrope, 
heuchera,  hibiscus,  hollyhock,  hunnemannia,  iris, 
larkspur,  lavender,  linum,  lobelia,  lupine,  nierem- 
bergia,  pansy,  petunia,  phlox,  pink,  poppy,  prim- 
rose, rudbeckia,  salvia,  snapdragon,  statice,  stevia, 
stocks,  sweet  alyssum,  sweet  william,  verbena,  violet, 
wallflower. 

PERENNIAL  PHLOX 

These  old-fashioned  plants,  in  their  newer  and 
improved  types,  make  one  of  the  most  imposing  dis- 
plays of  color  that  it  is  possible  to  obtain  in  the  gar- 
den. It  is  not  many  years  since  there  were  but  two 
or  three  colors  grown.  The  phloxes  of  our  grand- 
mother's garden  were  the  small-flowered  white, 
pink,  and  purple  varieties.  Today  we  have  them  in 
every  color  from  pure  white  to  darkest  crimson, 
with  all  the  intervening  shades  of  salmon,  scarlet, 
rose,  pink  striped,  etc.,  with  enormous  individual 
blooms  carried  in  large,  beautifully  formed  trusses. 

Phloxes  do  remarkably  well  in  California,  fur- 
nishing a  constant  display  from  early  spring  to  the 


IN   CALIFORNIA  79 

advent  of  winter  frosts.  They  are  true  perennials 
and  increase  in  vigor  and  beauty  each  succeeding 
year.  For  massing  or  planting  at  intervals  in  mixed 
borders  they  are  beautiful  subjects.  Their  charm- 
ing bright  colors  are  pleasing  to  the  eye  and  the 
delicious  wild-flower-like  scent  of  the  blooms  is  un- 
like that  of  any  other  garden  plants.  Phloxes  thrive 
in  an  open,  fully  exposed,  sunny  border,  either  plant- 
ed by  themselves  or  mixed  with  other  herbaceous 
plants.  They  are  not  particular  as  to  soil  so  long 
as  it  has  been  well  enriched  previous  to  planting  and 
is  given  an  occasional  mulch  of  rotted  manure. 

PELARGONIUMS 

Pelargoniums,  or  Lady  Washington  geraniums, 
are  among  the  most  beautiful  of  our  summer  and 
fall  flowering  plants.  They  offer  a  rich  and  varied 
assortment  of  colors  or  combination  of  colors,  and 
the  ease  with  which  they  may  be  grown  should  rec- 
ommend them  to  all. 

To  do  well  they  require  a  sunny  position  and  a 
perfectly  drained  soil  which  is  not  too  rich.  They 
are  at  home  against  a  south  wall  where  the  reflected 
rays  of  a  summer  sun  would  destroy  the  bloom  on 
almost  any  other  plant.  To  keep  them  in  shape  they 
should  be  pinched  back  from  time  to  time  previous 
to  the  blooming  season.  By  stopping  the  growth  in 
this  manner,  many  flowering  lateral  growths  are 
produced. 

FUCHSIAS 

Fuchsias  do  well  in  any  well  protected  north  bor- 
der and  bloom  in  great  profusion  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  year.  Give  them  a  well  prepared  soil 
which  has  been  thoroughly  enriched  with  decom- 
posed manure  and  a  copious  supply  of  water  during 
hot  weather. 


80  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

They  require  a  partially  shaded  position;  a  rich, 
well-drained  soil  with  abundance  of  moisture  during 
hot  weather.  They  make  a  beautiful  background 
plant  in  shady  borders  and  may  be  grown  in  various 
shapes  to  suit  the  requirements  of  the  bed.  A  good 
plan  is  to  grow  them  on  fan-shaped  trellises  four 
or  five  feet  high ;  as  the  growths  develop  spread  them 
out  and  tie  neatly.  When  they  reach  the  top,  pinch 
off  the  shoots;  this  induces  a  heavy  growth  below, 
and  the  trellis  will  soon  be  covered  with  a  heavy 
leafy  growth,  and  in  season  with  plenty  of  flowers. 

CANNAS 

Cannas  grow  so  easily  that  they  are  too  often  neg- 
lected, with  the  result  that  half  of  the  beauty  they 
are  capable  of  developing  is  lost.  If  liberal  treat- 
ment is  afforded  them  they  will  produce  a  dazzling 
blaze  of  color. 

For  subtropical  garden  effects,  used  with  various 
grasses  such  as  cyperus,  papyrus,  eulalias,  crimson 
fountain  grass  or  caladiums,  they  are  unexcelled.  In 
planting  them  for  landscape  effect  it  must  be  remem- 
bered that  they  are  a  background  flower,  and  the 
best  display  is  obtained  by  massing  them.  In  this 
favored  clime  cannas  bloom  almost  throughout  the 
year. 

MODERN  PERENNIAL  LARKSPURS 

Hybrids  of  Delphinium  belladonna  contain  not 
only  the  sky-blue  of  the  parent  type,  but  all  tints 
from  palest  to  darkest  blue.  The  various  interven- 
ing shades  of  sapphire,  turquoise,  indigo,  etc.,  are 
rich  and  beautiful.  They  branch  freely  from  the 
crown  and  bloom  without  intermission  from  early 
spring  to  late  autumn,  with  an  increasing  vigor  to 
the  plants  each  succeeding  season.  The  blossoms 
are  much  larger  than  those  of  the  older  variety. 


IN   CALIFORNIA  81 

They  should  be  planted  in  full  sun,  two  feet  apart 
each  way,  in  any  good  loamy  soil  to  which  has  been 
added  and  thoroughly  dug  in  a  liberal  dressing  of 
well  rotted  manure.  An  occasional  mulch  of  the 
same  material  during  the  hot  months  will  greatly 
increase  the  quality  of  the  bloom.  Arrange  the 
beds  so  that  the  plants  may  be  irrigated  either  by 
the  trench  method  or  by  flooding.  Sprinkling  over- 
head, as  with  numerous  other  plants  is  detrimental 
in  many  ways  and  should  not  be  practiced. 

FOR  SANDY  OR  ALKALINE  SOILS 

Use  should  be  made  of  desert  vegetation  so  far 
as  possible.  Most  California  wild  flowers  that  grow 
on  our  open  plains  will  thrive  in  arid  sections.  Ger- 
aniums and  petunias  are  two  splendid  drouth  resis- 
tant plants,  and  chrysanthemums,  German  iris,  can- 
nas,  elephants'  ears  and  Himalayan  bamboos  may  all 
be  seen  in  the  Coachella  Valley. 

In  alkaline  soils  try:  The  giant  reed,  Arundo 
donax ;  New  Zealand  flax,  Phormium  tenax ;  pampas 
grass,  Cortaderia  argenta;  aloes,  asparagus,  lav- 
ender, lupin,  ice  plant,  yucca,  chrysanthemum 
and  all  nearly  related  plants  of  the  composite  family 
seem  to  like  alkali. 

CARNATION  PROPAGATION 

Propagating  carnations  by  cuttings  is  quicker  and 
easier  than  layering ;  in  fact,  except  in  the  case  of  a 
variety  that  requires  special  attention  and  is  diffi- 
cult to  root,  it  is  the  best  for  all  purposes.  The 
shoots  at  the  base  of  the  plant  are  the  best  to  put 
into  the  cutting  bed.  Those  that  appear  on  the  flow- 
er stems  are  of  inferior  quality  and  will  in  time  show 
signs  of  degeneration.  The  same  will  be  the  case  if 
cuttings  are  taken  from  exhausted  blooming  plants ; 


82  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

for  this  reason  the  flower  stems  should  be  removed 
as  soon  as  the  flowers  on  them  are  faded. 

Some  growers  do  not  allow  the  plants  from  which 
they  intend  to  take  cuttings  to  bloom  at  all,  so  as  to 
send  all  the  strength  into  the  plant.  Cuttings  must 
be  taken  only  from  healthiest  stock  and  should  have 
an  average  length  of  four  inches  with  at  least  one 
inch  of  clean  stem.  When  taken  off  close  to  the 
branch  or  stem  out  of  the  joint  of  a  leaf  no  further 
trimming  of  the  heel  is  necessary.  When  the  shoot 
is  long  and  requires  a  cut  with  the  knife  the  cut 
should  be  made  at  a  joint  so  that  the  two  leaves  can 
be  peeled  off  and  leave  a  clean  heel.  If  cut  too  far 
back  of  a  joint  the  wood  is  hard  and  difficult  to  root; 
if  cutting  is  too  young  and  tender  the  epidermis  or 
skin  is  damaged,  and  the  part  below  the  joint  is 
robbed  of  its  outer  covering  and  is  very  liable  to 
rot  off. 

The  best  material  in  which  to  root  them  is  clean 
river  sand  or  very  fine  gravel,  three  or  four  inches 
deep,  with  good  drainage.  The  cuttings  may  be 
planted  one  inch  apart  in  the  rows  and  two  to  three 
inches  between  rows.  Insert  them  about  one  inch 
deep,  and  if  there  are  any  leaves  that  would  be  bur- 
ied in  the  sand,  cut  them  off.  In  putting  in  the  cut- 
tings use  a  pointed  stick  called  a  dibble,  or  dibber.  It 
can  be  made  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick  and  pointed 
like  a  lead  pencil.  Make  the  hole  with  the  dibble 
and  put  in  the  cutting,  and  then  make  the  sand  firm 
at  the  base  of  the  cutting.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  let 
the  cuttings  stand  in  water  twelve  hours  after  pick- 
ing and  before  planting.  Never  let  a  cutting  wilt. 

After  the  cuttings  are  in  they  should  be  shaded. 
The  best  thing  to  use  is  newspapers.  Lay  them  on 
top  of  the  box  of  cuttings,  keeping  them  away  from 
foliage  by  sticking  in  the  sand  a  few  little  splinters 


IN  CALIFORNIA  83 

of  wood  to  bear  weight  of  papers.  One  thickness 
is  enough.  Cuttings  should  be  kept  from  drafts  so 
as  to  avoid  evaporation  in  the  foliage  and  should  also 
be  sprayed  two  or  three  times  a  day  for  the  first 
week  or  ten  days  in  bright  weather,  and  the  sand 
should  never  be  allowed  to  get  dry.  After  ten  days 
they  can  be  given  some  sun.  It  will  take  six  weeks 
for  them  to  root,  and  they  should  never  be  allowed 
to  remain  in  the  sand  any  considerable  length  of  time 
after  they  are  fairly  rooted. 

Carnations  prefer  a  deep  loamy  soil  which  has 
been  well  enriched  with  rotted  manure.  The  posi- 
tions for  the  beds  should  be  in  full  sun.  Plant  in 
rows  two  and  one-half  feet  apart,  with  the  plants 
fifteen  inches  apart  in  the  row.  This  arrangement 
allows  for  liberal  cultivation  and  irrigation  by  small 
trenches  along  both  sides  of  the  row.  They  do  far 
better  under  this  system  of  watering  than  when 
sprinkled.  To  obtain  the  largest  sized  blooms,  re- 
move when  quite  small  all  the  lateral  buds,  leaving 
only  the  terminal,  as  is  done  in  disbudding  chrysan- 
themums. 

WILD  GARDENS 

When  copious  rains  have  fallen  and  the  soil  is 
wetted  to  considerable  depth,  it  is  time  to  sow  gar- 
dens where  the  seeds  are  to  be  broadcast  and  no 
subsequent  cultivation  is  contemplated.  If  such 
areas  have  been  worked  over,  weed  seeds  started 
and  the  plantlets  destroyed,  they  are  ready  for  plant- 
ing. If  the  area  is  still  in  a  raw  state  allow  the 
weed  seeds  time  to  start,  then  thoroughly  hoe  over 
the  surface,  allow  time  for  weeds  to  die  and  the  lag- 
gard ones  to  spring  into  life,  then  hoe  over  again, 
sow  your  seeds,  rake  over  and  pulverize  the  surface 
and  let  nature  do  the  rest,  for  this  latter  is  some- 


84  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

thing  in  which  you  cannot  render  much  aid.  If  one 
pulling  of  weeds  can  be  given  while  plants  are  very 
small,  from  the  vantage  point  of  boards  laid  on  the 
surface,  much  better  results  will  ensue. 

HOUSE  BORDERS 

Every  building  should  have  a  space  for  plants 
left  close  to  the  foundation.  No  cement  or  other 
walks  should  be  built  within  three  feet  if  conditions 
will  allow  such  space  to  be  left,  and  in  new  places 
this  is  always  possible.  The  angle  formed  by  ground 
and  building  should  be  filled  with  plants  and  an  occa- 
sional vine  should  clamber  over  a  corner  or  along  a 
porch.  The  house  should  appear  to  rise  out  of  a 
mass  of  shrubs  and  plants,  as  a  gem  rises  above  its 
setting.  No  place  has  a  proper  finish  without  such 
provision  for  embellishment. 

BRIGHT  COLORS  NEEDED 

Too  many  home  places  suffer  from  a  lack  of  tone 
or  color.  Many  plants  with  light-colored  flowers, 
vast  stretches  of  cement  or  gravel  walks,  faded  and 
undecided  shade  in  the  house  paint,  all  tend  to  a 
wishy-washy  effect  that  is  sadly  in  need  of  brighten- 
ing. Such  conditions  call  for  not  a  mere  touch  of 
color,  but  a  dominance  of  some  strong-growing  ef- 
fective plant.  Scarlet  geraniums  or  Ragged  Robin 
roses  in  masses  or  hedges  will  bring  the  desired 
effect  and  produce  a  really  wonderful  transforma- 
tion in  what  was  formerly  a  very  uninteresting 
prospect. 


A    CALIFORNIA    WATER    GARDEN 

Floating  on  a  Victoria  Leaf 


CHAPTER  VII 

WATER  GARDENS  AND  AQUATICS 

In  a  country  like  ours  where  there  is  a  scarcity 
of  rivers,  lakes,  ponds,  etc.,  yet  where  ice  seldom 
forms,  artificial  bodies  of  water,  however  small,  are 
much  appreciated.  Here  we  may  have  some  sort 
of  a  water  garden  throughout  the  year.  Many  peo- 
ple hesitate  to  incorporate  a  lily  pond  in  plans  for 
the  home  grounds  because  of  the  general,  but  erron- 
eous, impression  that  such  features  are  quite  costly. 
The  expense  of  water  gardening  is  almost  entirely 
that  of  first  cost,  the  subsequent  expense  as  com- 
pared with  any  other  like  garden  area  being  small 
indeed. 

No  garden,  however  large  or  small,  is  complete 
without  an  aquatic  department.  Water,  with  its 
attendant  vegetable  and  animal  life,  lends  a  more 
varied  and  varying  charm  to  the  landscape,  near  or 
distant,  than  any  other  garden  accessory.  The  great 
range  in  form  of  aquatic  plants  and  flowers  simply 
baffles  description  or  intelligent  comparison,  and  in 
the  long  list  of  possibilities  are  plants  adapted  to  or- 
dinary damp  soil  and  on  down  the  line  to  those  which 
will  grow  only  when  wholly  beneath  the  water  at  all 
times,  like  the  wonderful  water  fern  and  several 
other  denizens  of  the  cerulean  depths. 

Add  to  all  this  the  animal  life,  from  the  sluggish 
water  snail  to  the  never-resting  paradise  fish,  the 
graceful  sweep  and  beauteous  colors  of  the  f antailed 
goldfish,  and  one  has  a  world  in  miniature  though 
his  garden  contain  but  a  small  pond  for  aquatics — 


86  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

a  never-ending  and  ever-changing  source  of  enjoy- 
ment. Even  in  lands  of  much  natural  water  the 
chief  charm  of  the  garden  is  a  well-stocked  pond  or 
lake,  but  in  a  country  like  California,  with  few 
streams  of  size  or  inland  bodies  of  note,  water  in 
a  garden  adds  a  wealth  and  variety  impossible  to 
produce  with  any  other  agency. 

Many  are  deterred  from  acquiring  a  water  garden 
through  fear  of  cost  and  care,  but  this  phase  of  gar- 
dening is  only  costly  when  one  builds  on  a  large 
scale.  You  may  have  your  goldfish  and  water  lilies 
in  one  or  more  half-barrels — if  but  one,  a  pair  of 
fan-tailed  goldfish  costs  but  a  dollar  and  a  plant  of 
the  more  common  kinds  of  water  lilies  the  same,  so 
that  all  you  need  is  a  half-barrel  and  two  dollars. 
Care  there  is  not,  for  this  proper  balance  of  animal 
and  vegetable  life  keeps  the  water  pure  and  clear  at 
all  times. 

AQUATIC  FLOWERS 

In  the  great  family  of  nymphea  alone  the  range 
of  color  starts  with  the  purest  white  and  ranges  by 
an  almost  imperceptible  gradation  to  three  strik- 
ingly deep  and  beautiful  extremes  of  color — orange, 
crimson  and  blue,  the  two  latter  being  really  maroon 
and  indigo,  respectively,  so  intensely  deep  and  sub- 
stantial are  these  wonderful  colorings.  Only  one 
other  class  of  plants  yields  flowers  of  such  exquisite 
color  and  texture — the  tropical  orchids,  and  then 
only  when  grown  under  glass  with  tropical  heat  and 
moisture  and  in  no  wise  rivalling  the  aquatics  in 
size  of  bloom. 

The  greatest  charm  of  the  water  garden  lies  in 
the  ability  of  every  one  to  grow  these  blossoms  of 
richest  hue  in  the  open  garden  with  nothing  to  be 
done  but  watch  them  unfold  their  magnificence  under 


IN  CALIFORNIA  87 

the  magic  influence  of  our  almost  tropic  summer  sun. 
The  range  in  the  size  of  aquatic  flowers  is  fully  as 
striking  as  that  in  color;  the  little  white  lily  from 
Siberia  has  flowers  no  larger  than  a  half-dollar,  yet 
as  perfect  in  all  its  parts  and  as  full  of  series  of 
petals  as  the  giant  lily  of  the  Amazon,  victoria,  over 
a  foot  across.  Still  smaller  than  the  Siberian  is  the 
dainty  little  frosted  snowflake  flower. 

All  flowering  aquatics  should  be  planted  so  that 
they  will  be  exposed  to  full  sunlight. 

MAKING  THE  POND 

Every  one  may  have  at  least  a  half  barrel  sunk  in 
the  ground  for  a  good  water  lily  plant.  In  a  country 
of  vineyards  it  should  be  easy  to  get  a  large  wine 
barrel.  Sink  one  or  both  halves  in  the  soil  to  within 
three  inches  of  the  top  of  staves.  Put  in  just  a  foot 
of  pond  muck,  leaf-mold  soil  or  even  a  good  garden 
loam,  and  in  this  plant  your  lily  bulbs.  After  plant- 
ing, pour  in  water  very  carefully  so  as  not  to  dis- 
turb the  soil,  until  a  few  inches  above  surface  of 
soil.  After  the  leaves  begin  to  grow  gradually  fill 
with  water.  These  miniature  water  gardens  are  in- 
expensive and  a  source  of  much  pleasure. 

In  making  a  pond  the  excavated  soil  can  be  used 
in  forming  the  banks  of  varied  heights  and  config- 
urations. The  outline  of  the  pond,  like  that  of  a  belt 
of  trees  or  shrubbery  border  skirting  a  lawn,  should 
be  varied  and  irregular,  with  bold  points  and  deep 
indentations,  and  these  should  be  few  and  bold 
rather  than  frequent  and  tame.  The  resemblance 
between  a  level  lawn,  surrounded  by  curved  outlines 
of  shrubbery,  and  that  of  a  smooth  sheet  of  water 
in  a  pond  or  small  lake,  with  jutting  banks  and  retir- 
ing bays,  is  very  close,  so  far  as  relates  to  their 
artistic  treatment  in  ornamental  planting.  The  most 


88  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

natural  position  for  a  sheet  of  water  is  in  a  hollow 
or  low  spot  in  the  grounds.  The  total  depth  of  the 
pond  should  be  two  feet  and  four  inches. 

KEEPING  THE  WATER  PURE 

Ponds  need  a  renewal  of  water  only  when  they 
get  their  annual  cleaning  out,  and  a  little  occasion- 
ally to  replace  that  lost  by  evaporation,  etc.  If  the 
proper  balance  of  animal  and  vegetable  life  is  main- 
tained it  naturally  follows  that  all  the  inmates  are 
living  under  perfectly  natural  conditions.  Who  has 
not  noticed  that  natural  ponds  containing  animal 
and  vegetable  life  have  clear,  pure  water  throughout 
the  year?  Aquatic  animal  life  abstracts  oxygen  gas 
from  the  water  and  gives  off  carbonic  acid  gas ;  this 
latter  vegetable  life  absorbs  and  sets  free  the  oxygen. 
The  author  has  kept  a  pair  of  golden  carp,  or  "gold- 
fish," in  one  gallon  of  water  without  changing  it 
for  several  months.  The  only  other  contents  were 
a  few  pebbles  and  a  single  water  plant.  If  this  can 
be  done  it  should  prove  an  easy  matter  to  preserve 
the  proper  balance  in  a  pond.  A  few  healthy  fish 
will  also  keep  the  pond  clear  of  mosquitoes,  as  all  of 
them  will  be  greedily  devoured  while  in  the  "wrig- 
gler" stage. 

All  tanks,  ponds  or  lakes  should  have  submerged 
plants  growing  in  them  to  aerify  the  water,  thereby 
keeping  it  pure  and  sweet.  The  best  plants  for  this 
purpose  are  Anacharis  Canadensis  gigantea,  Ca- 
bomba  viridifolia,  Sagittaria  natans  and  Vallisneria 
spiralis.  These  can  be  planted  in  water  from  six 
inches  to  two  feet  deep. 

WHAT  TO  PLANT 

Forty  varieties  of  water  lilies,  besides  many  small 
water  plants,  as  also  ten  varieties  of  Egyptian  lotus, 


IN   CALIFORNIA  89 

growing  luxuriantly  and  sending  forth  many  blos- 
soms give  witness  that  our  climate  is  certainly  suit- 
able to  the  cultivation  of  the  tenderest  of  aquatic 
plants.  Before  selection  for  color,  etc.,  it  is  best  to 
send  for  the  catalogue  of  a  dealer  in  aquatics. 

HARDY  WATER  LILIES 

Nympheas :  Aurora,  candidissima,  Gladstoniana, 
gloriosa,  lucida,  Marliacea  carnea,  M.  chromatella, 
M.  Robinsoni,  M.  rosea,  odorata  Caroliniana,  pyg- 
maea  and  pygmaea  helvola. 

TROPICAL  DAY-BLOOMING 

Nymphea  Pennsylvania,  Zanzibarensis,  Z.  azurea, 
and  Z.  rosea. 

TROPICAL  NIGHT-BLOOMING 

Nymphea  dentata  grandiflora,  dentata  superba, 
Devoniensis,  and  George  Huster. 

Old  plants  of  tropical  lilies  often  succumb  to  the 
chill  of  water  during  winter.  Small  nut-like  tubers 
produced  by  keeping  seedling  plants  in  four-inch 
pots  during  summer,  are  more  hardy  and  responsive 
than  old  crowns  that  have  flowered. 

FINE  CALIFORNIA  HYBRIDS 

Several  years  ago  a  new  series  of  hybrids  ap- 
peared in  a  commercial  water  garden  in  Los  An- 
geles, produced  by  the  crossing  of  N.  gracilis  with 
N.  Zanzibarensis  and  its  varieties.  They  are  strong 
and  vigorous  growers,  producing  very  freely  flowers 
much  larger  than  N.  gracilis,  being  eight  to  ten 
inches  across,  on  stems  standing  fifteen  inches  or 
more  out  of  the  water.  They  increase  freely  by 
offsets,  producing  large  tubers  which  are  perfectly 
hardy  in  the  citrus  belts  of  California.  The  flowers 
are  very  useful  for  cutting  as  they  can  be  placed  in 


90  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

vases    in   the    same   manner   as    ordinary   garden 
flowers. 

THE  GIANT  VICTORIA 

Victoria  Cruziana  is  the  best  variety  of  Victoria 
for  growing  in  the  open  in  California.  Seeds  should 
be  started  in  January  in  water  at  eighty  degrees, 


EGYPTIAN  LOTUS 


IN  CALIFORNIA  91 

and  the  plants  kept  in  a  warm  greenhouse  until 
June  1st,  when  they  may  be  planted  out  in  the  pond. 
This  is  the  grandest  of  all  aquatic  plants.  Leaves 
are  not  infrequently  six  feet  across  and  flowers  are 
one  foot,  of  purest  white,  later  turning  to  pink.  As 
the  plant  is  an  annual,  hard  to  grow  from  seeds, 
it  will  be  better  to  buy  young  plants  from  a  dealer 
in  aquatics. 

EGYPTIAN  LOTUS 

Nelumbiums,  popularly  known  as  Egyptian  lotus, 
attain  the  greatest  perfection  if  planted  in  the  heav- 
iest adobe  soil,  fertilized  soon  after  planting  out 
and  each  spring  thereafter  with  dried  blood  at  the 
rate  of  one  pound  to  each  ten  square  feet  of  surface. 

There  are  many  varieties,  but  those  found  to  do 
best  in  California  and  now  accepted  as  standards 
are :  Nelumbium  album  grandiflora,  album  striatum, 
Osiris,  Pekinensis  rubrum  plenum,  roseum  plenum, 
Shiroman,  and  speciosum. 

SUITABLE  SOIL 

The  most  suitable  soil  for  water  plants  in  general, 
with  the  exception  of  nelumbiums,  is  a  rich  loam 
and  the  best  rotted  horse  or  cow  manure  mixed  to- 
gether in  equal  parts,  with  the  addition  of  one  or 
one  and  a  half  pounds  of  bone  meal  to  each  wheel- 
barrow load  of  soil,  and  we  must  not  omit  seeing 
that  the  mixing  is  done  thoroughly.  Nelumbiums 
love  heavy  loam  or  heavy,  greasy  clay,  well  enriched, 
as  do  all  other  water  plants.  They  do  not  thrive 
and  seldom  or  never  blossom  in  sand  or  in  soil 
strongly  mixed  with  sand. 

Lilies  which  are  grown  in  beds  of  soil  or  in  natural 
ponds  will  be  much  benefited  by  an  application  in 
spring  of  dried  blood  manure,  broadcasted  on  the 
surface  of  the  water  at  the  rate  of  one  pound  to 


92  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

every  ten  square  feet  of  surface.     Those  in  boxes 
and  tubs  need  the  same  fertilizing. 

When  tanks,  half  barrels,  or  tubs  are  used,  and 
after  the  soil  has  been  filled  in,  a  layer  of  pure  sand 
to  the  thickness  of  two  inches  should  be  put  on  top, 
to  prevent  the  fertilizing  substances  which  have  been 
mixed  with  the  soil  from  rising  to  the  surface.  When 
using  tanks  or  tubs  it  is  necessary  to  see  that  they 
are  exposed  or  built  in  places  where  they  will  re- 
ceive a  large  amount  of  sunshine  during  the  day,  as 
this  is  one  of  the  main  points  in  successful  cultiva- 
tion. 

BUILDING  AN  AQUARIUM 

After  trying  to  make  a  wooden  one  hold  water  and 
wasting  two  month's  patience  and  hard  work,  I  built 


two  of  one  inch  angle  iron,  13x16x26  inches,  and 
they  did  not  leak  a  drop  and  look  as  well  as  though 
I  had  paid  a  fancy  price  for  them.  I  gave  them  a 
coating  of  red  lead  inside  before  putting  in  the  glass 
and  painted  outside  with  black  iron  varnish. 

Use  the  following  mixture  for  cement ;  it  is  an  old 


IN   CALIFORNIA  93 

receipt,  but  as  reliable  as  can  be  made:  Take  3 
parts  litharge;  3  parts  fine  white  sand,  perfectly 
dry;  3  parts  plaster  of  Paris;  1  part  finely  pulver- 
ized resin.  Mix  thoroughly  and  make  into  a  soft 
putty  with  linseed  oil  to  which  some  dryer  has  been 
added.  You  may  use  the  cement  in  two  hours  after 
mixing  and  put  water  in  tanks  in  less  than  twelve 
hours  after  setting  the  glass.  Use  second-hand  plate 
glass  for  sides  and  ends  and  one-fourth  inch  sky- 
light glass,  corrugated  on  one  side  for  bottom. 

CARE  OF  AQUARIUM 

When  the  aquarium  is  to  be  thoroughly  cleaned 
and  rearranged,  which  should  be  done  once  or  twice 
every  year,  the  water  is  carefully  dipped  out  or 
drawn  off  with  a  rubber  syphon  to  within  about  six 
inches  from  the  bottom.  This  water,  if  practicable, 
is  saved  and  used  again  when  the  tank  is  refilled. 
The  older  the  water  the  better.  The  author  has 
used  water  for  years  in  this  way.  Next  take  out  the 
rockwork,  then  all  the  plants,  also  the  larger  pebbles, 
and  now  carefully  catch  and  remove  the  fish,  etc., 
placing  them  in  a  clean  tin  vessel  with  plenty  of 
water  of  suitable  temperature.  Take  out  the  re- 
mainder of  the  water  now  and  also  the  sand,  but  do 
not  move  the  tank,  if  a  heavy  one,  from  its  position. 
After  washing  the  sand  particles  off  the  inside  of 
the  glass  to  prevent  scratching,  clean  the  entire  in- 
side of  the  tank  by  rubbing  it  with  ordinary  table 
salt,  using  the  fingers  instead  of  a  brush.  All  the 
brownish  or  green  matter  being  taken  off  the  tank 
is  once  more  washed  with  clean  water  and  is  then 
ready  for  replanting. 

WATER-GARDEN  PESTS 

Innumerable  kinds  of  aquatic  insects  breed  in  the 
water,  and  some  of  their  larvae  prey  upon  the  leaves 


94  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

of  the  lilies,  but  the  common  water  snail  is  the  great- 
est enemy  of  aquatic  plants.  The  goldfish  assist  very 
materially  in  destroying  these  larvae  and  snails,  but 
we  have  found  a  complete  preventive  of  injury  to 
the  foliage  from  this  source  by  keeping  in  the  tank, 
in  addition  to  the  goldfish,  some  of  the  common  spot- 
ted sunfish.  They  are  carnivorous  in  habit  and  very 
alert  and  active.  Moreover,  it  is  impossible  for  mos- 
quitoes to  breed  in  a  water  lily  basin  in  which  an 
abundance  of  the  above  named  fish,  or  those  of  sim- 
ilar habit,  are  kept.  Thus  one  objection  to  locating 
these  tanks  or  ponds  in  the  vicinity  of  the  dwelling- 
house  is  removed. 

WATER-SIDE  IRIS 

The  apogon,  or  beardless  iris,  is  a  very  interesting 
section  and  contains  some  very  beautiful  species  and 
varieties.  Some  of  these  are  as  easy  of  culture  as 
those  in  the  bearded  section,  while  some  require  more 
moisture  and  different  treatment.  Many  are  excel- 
lent for  planting  around  lily  ponds,  in  tubs,  etc.,  par- 
ticularly the  taller  growing  varieties,  where  the 
roots  receive  plenty  of  moisture  during  the  grow- 
ing and  blooming  period.  Like  nearly  all  of  the 
genus,  when  the  plants  are  established  they  can 
be  allowed  to  dry  out  for  a  time  during  the  sum- 
mer months — in  fact,  most  of  them  are  the  better 
for  it — which  is  an  excellent  feature,  as  it  is  a  time 
when  our  gardening  enthusiasm  wanes.  A  few  in 
this  section  do  remarkably  well  with  no  more  mois- 
ture than  our  bearded  irises  receive. 


THE    TROPIC-AMERICAN    CERIMAN 
Monstera  deliciosa 


CHAPTER  VIII 
HOUSE  AND  PORCH  PLANTS 

Henry  Ward  Beecher  declared  that  he  always 
found  house  plants  an  infallible  test  in  selecting  ac- 
quaintances, neatness,  cleanliness,  and  innumerable 
virtues  being  the  usual  accompaniments  of  a  love  of 
flowers.  It  is  an  unquestionable  fact  that  the  culti- 
vation and  care  of  plants  instills  love  of  nature 
and  has  an  uplifting  and  ennobling  influence  on  man- 
kind. Go  where  you  will  you  meet  with  the  best 
reception  in  every  way  at  such  places  where  the 
greatest  love  is  manifest  for  the  beauties  of  nature. 
When  the  traveler  comes  upon  a  home  where  there 
is  a  roomy,  well-planned,  well-kept  garden  he  at  once 
feels  a  desire  to  know  the  inmates  personally,  for 
he  is  certain  to  find  there  more  or  less  generosity, 
intelligence  and  refinement. 

HOUSE  PLANTS 

Many  people  are  thoroughly  discouraged  with  try- 
ing to  grow  house  plants,  when  they  might  enjoy 
healthy  and  beautiful  specimens  by  observing  a  few 
simple  rules.  You  cannot  take  any  plant  you  have 
and  keep  it  just  where  you  would  most  like  it  for 
effect  without  regard  to  what  it  needs.  Many  can- 
not thrive  without  sunshine,  while  others  require  lit- 
tle or  none. 

Every  plant  needs  plenty  of  light,  and  nearly  all 
a  little  sun,  and  if  they  do  not  get  it  ill-health  and 
death  will  ensue.  Scarcely  a  single  pot  plant  re- 
quires or  will  endure  the  same  exposure  or  aspect 


96  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

throughout  the  year ;  some  will  survive  the  sunshine 
of  winter  but  quickly  succumb  to  the  uninterrupted 
summer  sun.  Give  them  plenty  of  fresh  air,  every 
day,  even  in  winter,  leave  the  doors  and  windows 
open  as  much  as  possible,  but  do  not  allow  a  strong, 
cold  draft  to  strike  across  tender  plants. 

Exercise  great  care  in  watering;  hundreds  of  fine 
plants  are  ruined  by  daily  waterings.  Water  thor- 
oughly, a  generous  soaking,  filling  up  the  pot  three 
or  four  times,  about  five  minutes  apart.  Then  let 
them  rest  for  several  days,  or  until  the  earth  gets 
dry  on  top.  A  better  plan  for  watering  is  to  stand 
the  pots  in  a  vessel  of  water  for  from  ten  to  twenty 
minutes.  Air  is  as  necessary  to  the  roots  of  a  plant 
as  it  is  to  the  top,  and  when  confined  in  a  pot  soon 
loses  its  life-giving  properties  and  must  be  changed. 
You  may  drive  out  the  foul  air  by  a  thorough  water- 
ing and  then  when  the  water  dries  out  it  will  be  re- 
placed by  fresh  air,  thus  giving  perfect  ventilation 
to  the  soil. 

POTTING  AND  REPOTTING 

Need  of  repotting  is  shown  when  the  pot  is  fairly 
well  filled  with  roots  so  that  when  the  pot  is  removed 
the  ball  of  soil  is  held  together  and  netted  over  with 
good  live  roots.  Some  few  plants  need  repotting 
before  this  stage  is  reached ;  still  fewer  should  remain 
unpotted  longer,  but  both  of  these  classes  are  marked 
exceptions  to  the  rule  and  need  not  be  treated  in 
general  advice  on  potting.  Generally  a  shift  to  a 
pot  one  size  larger  is  enough  and  this  but  once  a  year, 
preferably  in  the  spring.  Sometimes  it  is  not  neces- 
sary to  entirely  repot.  A  considerable  quantity  of 
the  old  soil  can  be  dug  out  without  seriously  dis- 
turbing the  roots,  and  fresh  soil  given  in  its  place. 
This  is  an  easier  and  quicker  operation  than  entire 


IN  CALIFORNIA  97 

repotting  and  interferes  less  with  the  roots  and  their 
functions  and  is  advised  in  cases  where  it  would  seem 
to  be  sufficient  to  meet  the  demands  of  the  plant,  as 
may  easily  be  the  case  if  the  potting  soil  is  very  rich. 
The  use  of  liquid  fertilizer  or  concentrated  forms  of 
dry  commercial  chemical  fertilizers  that  are  nearly 
odorless  is  becoming  so  common  that  we  find  it  safe 
to  do  away  with  repotting  for  a  long  time,  depend- 
ing on  the  concentrated  food  furnished  by  these  fer- 
tilizers rather  than  fresh  soil  as  heretofore.  Re- 
liable fertilizers  are  prepared  on  scientific  formulas 
and  contain  all  the  elements  necessary  for  plant 
growth  in  the  most  convenient  and  available  form. 
Repotting  should  generally  be  done  in  the  spring  and 
before  the  plant  makes  its  annual  growth.  There 
will  come  to  most  plants  a  time  when  they  seem 
almost  dormant,  but  after  they  have  had  a  good 
resting  spell  there  will  be  signs  of  renewed  growth 
quite  apparent  to  the  observant  grower.  This  is  the 
time  to  repot  them.  It  is  well  to  keep  all  freshly 
potted  or  repotted  plants  from  both  wind,  sun,  or 
rapid  changes  of  temperature  for  several  days  and 
sprinkle  them  lightly  two  or  more  times  each  day 
for  the  first  week.  This  treatment  will  aid  mate- 
rially in  overcoming  any  shock  the  plant  may  have 
received  through  injury  or  disturbance  of  its  roots. 

WINDOW  BOXES 

Buildings  whose  lines  of  architecture  are  unus- 
ually stiff  and  conventional  and  whose  colors  are 
quiet,  like  the  Quaker  drab  of  many  plastered  resi- 
dences, need  the  vine  and  window  garden  more  than 
others.  Delicate  growth  of  vines  takes  away  the 
harsh  effect  of  too  many  straight  lines,  softening 
them  into  harmony  with  the  surroundings.  They 
also  relieve  the  glaring  effect  of  plain  walls  of  brick, 


98  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

cement,  or  stone.  Window  boxes  are  equally  useful 
and  not  less  ornamental. 

The  plain  neutral  gray  of  Florentine  mission 
houses  needs  a  touch  of  color  to  brighten  their  other- 
wise somber  appearance.  It  is  also  true  that  window 
boxes  do  much  to  lighten  the  paint  and  stain  effects 
on  wooden  buildings.  For  the  purpose  nothing  seems 
more-  suitable  than  ivy  geraniums,  and  these  may 
be  had  in  a  great  variety  of  colors  or  shades.  For 
dark  buildings  any  shade  from  pure  white  to  pink 
will  prove  harmonious,  but  those  having  a  touch  of 
magenta  or  purple  should  be  avoided  either  in  win- 
dow box  or  garden.  For  the  Quaker  gray  above 
noted  the  pinks  only  should  be  used  and  the  deeper 
the  gray  or  cream  of  plastered  houses,  the  deeper 
should  be  the  shade  of  the  flowers  used.  This  class 
of  geraniums  has  been  much  improved  of  late,  and 
you  may  easily  obtain  any  shade  of  pink  desired. 

While  plants  in  window  boxes  should  have  plenty 
of  room  to  grow,  it  is  also  necessary  to  have  them 
somewhat  effective  at  once,  so  that  fair-sized  plants 
must  be  used.  Therefore  get  large  plants  in  small 
pots  and  you  will  have  them  fairly  showy  from  the 
start  and  yet  be  able  to  plant  them  in  small  compass. 
In  nearly  all  cases  window  boxes  are  wholly  insuf- 
ficient in  capacity,  especially  as  regards  depth,  so 
that  care  must  be  taken  to  have  them  filled  with 
none  but  the  richest  soil.  For  the  same  reason  it  is 
best  to  remove  from  the  roots  of  the  plants  used  as 
much  soil  as  is  possible  safely,  so  that  it  may  be 
replaced  by  the  fresh  and  stronger. 

Owing  to  root  disturbance  it  will  be  found  advis- 
able to  keep  the  boxes  cool  and  shaded  for  a  few 
days  after  planting,  or  until  the  plants  have  resumed 
root  action  and  former  functions.  In  filling  in  the 
soil  it  is  best  to  put  on  the  bottom,  before  setting 


IN   CALIFORNIA  99 

any  plants,  two  or  more  inches  of  well-rotted  manure 
for  future  plant  food ;  in  reserve,  as  it  were.  Econ- 
omize in  room  as  much  as  possible  when  planting; 
no  harm  will  result  from  pressing  the  balls  of  soil 
about  the  roots  quite  flat  if  they  are  to  lie  against 
the  sides  of  the  box.  Plant  the  sides  first  and  the 
middle  last,  and  get  enough  vines  to  fairly  hide  the 
box.  Care  must  be  taken  to  see  that  all  interstices 
between  plant  balls  are  filled  with  soil,  so  that  the 
soil  used  should  be  finely  sifted  and  not  too  wet. 

After  careful  planting  settle  with  thorough  water- 
ings, and  then  before  putting  in  permanent  position 
fill  up  to  within  one  to  two  inches  of  the  top,  using 
finely-sifted,  well-rotted  manure  for  the  top  half -inch 
to  provide  a  mulch  which  will  largely  overcome  the 
evaporation  of  soil  moisture.  More  window-box 
plants  during  summer  are  ruined  by  too  little  than 
by  too  much  watering.  The  crimson-flowered  lotus 
(Lotus  peliorensis)  would  prove  just  the  plant  for 
such  places.  Do  not  confuse  the  botanical  name, 
lotus,  which  belongs  to  members  of  the  pea  family 
(Leguminosae) ,  with  the  popular  name,  lotus,  which 
is  often  given  to  water  plants  of  the  genus  nelumbo. 
Our  plant  is  a  trailer  with  finely  cut,  grayish-green 
foliage  and  crimson  flowers  of  parrot-bill  form ;  flow- 
ers closely  resembling  those  of  clianthus.  It  will 
stand  great  heat  and  much  drouth. 

HANGING  BASKETS 

There  is  no  class  of  plants  so  neglected  as  those  in 
hanging  baskets.  In  their  exposed  position  they 
dry  out  very  rapidly,  and  are  often  given  only  a  lit- 
tle water  on  top.  The  roots  that  need  moisture  so 
much  seldom  receive  any,  and  these  baskets  are  any- 
thing but  ornaments.  They  should  be  taken  down 
at  least  once  a  week,  placed  in  a  tub  of  water  and 


100  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

left  there  for  half  an  hour.  All  of  the  plants  should 
be  submerged.  In  very  dry  weather  this  should  be 
done  twice  a  week,  then  they  will  be  things  of  living 
green,  instead  of  withered,  sickly  plants.  A  little 
liquid  fertilizer  given  while  they  are  wet  will  cause 
them  to  make  more  rapid  growth,  and  if  of  bloom- 
ing kinds  will  cause  more  buds  to  appear. 

One  of  the  most  useful  plants  for  large  hanging 
baskets  or  shaded  window  boxes  is  the  English  ivy. 
This  old  favorite  can  stand  more  rough  usage  and 
neglect  than  any  drooping  plant  or  vine  used  for  the 
purpose.  The  climbing  vinca  or  periwinkle,  often 
called  climbing  myrtle,  is  another  rank-growing  vine 
for  large  baskets,  but  it  is  a  gross  feeder  and  will 
not  endure  neglect  like  the  ivy.  The  variegated  gle- 
choma  is  a  neat,  hardy  little  vine  and  even  the  maur- 
andya  is  excellent  for  baskets. 

Instead  of  allowing  all  vines  to  hang  as  they  will, 
pin  or  tie  part  of  them  to  the  moss  or  the  basket  so 
as  to  hide  the  bareness  of  the  latter.  The  Kenil- 
worth  ivy  is  a  good  plant  for  this  purpose.  Abutilon 
vexillarium,  nierembergia,  ivy-leaved  geranium  are 
all  good  for  basket  edges,  or  plant  a  border  of  lobelia. 
While  flowering  plants  should  be  used  to  give  change 
and  pleasing  variety,  many  prefer  the  plain  green 
of  asparagus  or  ferns.  Asparagus  plumosus,  often 
called  asparagus  fern,  does  not  require  the  amount 
of  soil  or  feeding  that  Asparagus  Sprengeri  does,  nor 
is  it  so  hardy  or  tough,  but  it  may  be  kept  longer  in 
pot  or  basket. 

Nephrolepis  davallioides  and  its  variety,  furcans, 
are  two  good  sword  ferns  for  baskets  where  plenty 
of  soil  is  present.  N.  exaltata,  the  common  sword 
fern,  is  a  good  "standing"  plant  and  will  endure 
much  abuse  and  neglect,  but  is  seldom  graceful 
enough  for  baskets.  N.  tuberosa  is  a  handsomer 


IN   CALIFORNIA  101 

species  of  dwarf er  habit.  Onychium,  or  carrot  ferns, 
are  good  subjects;  O.  auratum  has  a  yellow  tint  on 
the  under  side  of  leaf,  and  0.  Japonicum  is  green, 
though  in  other  respects  quite  like  the  first  named 
species.  The  platyceriums,  or  staghorn  ferns,  are 
the  most  attractive  of  all  for  hanging  or  wall  bas- 
kets or  on  blocks  of  wood  and  when  once  well  estab- 
lished make  good  house  plants. 

All  ferns  or  other  plants  with  thick,  leathery  foli- 
age endure  the  dust  and  dry  air  of  living  rooms 
though  they  need  liberal  quantities  of  water.  All  of 
the  pteris  or  winged  ferns  are  suitable  for  planting 
in  baskets,  more  especially  the  dwarfer  sorts,  for 
they  are  of  hardy  constitution.  Among  other  plants 
for  central  positions,  Begonia  Erfordii  and  all  of 
that  type  are  most  excellent.  A  prime  favorite  with 
all  who  know  it  is  Farfugium  grande,  var.  punctata, 
the  leopard  leaf,  a  composite  with  nearly  round 
leaves  of  dark  green  thickly  spotted  with  yellow 
"polka  dots."  As  these  plants  are  all  good  material 
for  hanging  baskets,  they  are  also  equally  good  for 
pot  culture  and  thrive  splendidly  in  the  house  if 
given  a  reasonable  amount  of  care. 

POPULAR  HOUSE  PLANTS 

Flowering  pot  plants  need  not  be  pot-bound  in 
order  to  bloom,  but  they  blossom  much  more  freely 
when  the  pot  is  fairly  filled  with  roots.  While  a 
plant  is  making  a  heavy  root  growth  it  rarely  ever 
flowers,  but  only  when  the  season's  growth  is  fin- 
ished. This  action  suggests  that  a  plant  should  fin- 
ish blooming  and  also  have  a  rest  before  it  is  re- 
potted and  called  upon  for  another  supreme  effort. 

HOUSE  FERNS 

Only  a  few  of  the  many  varieties  of  ferns  will  do 
well  under  ordinary  house  conditions.  Most  vari- 


102  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

eties  are  too  sensitive  to  the  extremes  of  tempera- 
ture and  the  dry  air  commonly  found  in  living  rooms, 
and  even  the  hardiest  should  occasionally  be  left  out 
of  doors  for  a  few  days  in  order  to  recuperate  dissi- 
pated vigor.  If  house  ferns  could  be  put  outside 
every  night  their  house  life  would  be  lengthened  al- 
most indefinitely.  Occasionally  they  should  be 
sprayed,  and  to  leave  them  outside  for  a  time  when 
the  rain  is  falling  cannot  fail  of  benefit. 

One  who  has  a  fine  collection  of  house  ferns  and 
a  few  palms  has  found  a  very  novel  and  successful 
way  of  keeping  them  in  first-class  condition.  About 
once  a  week  she  places  them  in  the  bathroom,  fills 
the  tub  with  water  made  as  hot  as  possible,  closes  all 
doors  and  windows  and  leaves  the  plants  in  this 
steam  bath  for  three  or  four  hours.  Then  the  win- 
dows are  gradually  opened  so  as  not  to  cool  the 
plants  too  quickly,  and  when  the  bathroom  has  come 
down  to  normal  temperature  the  plants  are  removed. 
This  treatment  renders  washing  of  the  leaves  un- 
necessary, nor  have  any  of  these  plants  been  attacked 
by  scale  or  other  pests. 

For  a  house  fern  the  maidenhair  most  common  in 
our  nurseries  and  florists'  establishments,  Adiantum 
cuneatum,  easily  holds  first  place,  though  not  so 
hardy  for  the  house  as  are  the  sword  ferns  and  a 
few  others. 

Asplenium  nidus  avis,  bird's  nest  fern,  is  a  very 
handsome  species  with  broad  leaves.  The  mid-rib 
is  black  in  color,  with  a  foliage  otherwise  of  a  golden 
cast;  a  very  desirable  species  for  conservatories  or 
indoor  decoration,  being  quite  distinct  from  all  other 
ferns. 

Cyrtomium  falcatum,  the  holly  fern,  is  an  elegant 
hardy  species,  with  broad  palmate  fronds  of  a  deep 


IN   CALIFORNIA  103 

glossy  green.     It  grows  readily  in  pots  or  may  be 
planted  outside. 

Nephrolepis  exaltata,  variety  Bostoniensis,  is  but 
a  sport  from  the  common  sword  fern  which  is  native 
to  Florida  and  many  other  parts  of  the  world.  Dur- 
ing the  past  few  years  we  have  seen  a  most  remark- 
able development  of  house  ferns  among  sports  from 
the  Boston  fern  until  at  present  we  have  a  half- 
dozen  forms  more  ornate :  Nephrolepis  Whitmani, 
Witteboldii,  Washingtoniensis,  Piersoni,  Alice  Fos- 
ter and  elegantisssima.  While  all  have  merit,  none 
are  so  hardy  in  every  way  as  the  Boston  fern. 

Another  neat  sword  fern  is  N.  cordata  compacta, 
and  for  a  small  pot  plant  is  to  be  preferred  to  the 
Boston.  Two  plants  closely  related  to  the  common 
sword  fern  and  representing  the  extremes  in  size, 
are  N.  Philippinense,  quite  a  dwarf,  and  N.  Wash- 
ingtoniensis which  grows  to  a  height  of  five  or  more 
feet. 

The  platyceriums  are  a  group  of  ferns  that  are 
not  sufficiently  grown  by  the  amateur  plant  fancier. 
Fastened  on  a  block  of  wood  or  the  bark  of  a  tree 
and  given  a  shady,  moist  situation,  with  an  occa- 
sional shower  of  water,  they  thrive  abundantly.  To 
prevent  them  from  requiring  too  frequent  spraying 
some  florist's  moss  may  be  fastened  on  the  block 
under  the  plant.  These  plants  may  also  be  grown 
in  pots  of  soil.  There  are  now  several  horticultural 
forms,  but  the  two  species  common  are  from  Aus- 
tralia, and  in  their  native  home  they  are  known  as 
"elkhorn  fern,"  Platycerium  alcicorne,  and  "stag- 
horn  fern,"  P.  grande. 

For  a  large  pot  plant  Pteris  tremula,  one  of  the 
so-called  brake  ferns,  will  give  the  best  satisfaction. 
In  cut-leaved  ferns  Onychium  Japonicum,  the  Japa- 


104  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

nese  parsley  fern,  and  Polystichum  angulare,  var. 
proliferum,  are  the  most  easily  grown. 

A  fern  ball  of  Davallia  bullata  needs  an  annual 
rest.  Gradually  dry  it  off  and  allow  it  to  remain  dor- 
mant for  a  time.  This  should  be  done  once  each  year 
at  the  season  when  you  can  best  spare  it  or  when 
you  can  give  it  the  least  attention.  When  you  again 
start  it  into  life  do  not  let  it  get  dry  at  any  time  but 
keep  it  soaked  by  immersion  in  a  pail  of  water  when- 
ever necessary.  When  the  growth  is  strong  and 
healthy  soak  it  about  once  each  month  in  weak 
manure  water. 

PALMS 

The  most  popular  house  plants  are  the  kentias,  so 
called,  and  they  will  doubtless  never  be  superseded, 
for  they  very  closely  approach  the  ideal.  Next  to 
the  aspidistra  and  rubber  plant  they  will  stand  more 
neglect  and  abuse  than  any  others  and  far  surpass 
in  graceful  beauty  either  of  the  plants  mentioned. 
There  are  but  two  species,  K.  Belmoreana  and  K. 
Fosteriana,  both  properly  Howeas,  though  Hedescepe 
Canterburyana  is  also  called  a  Kentia. 

The  owner  of  house  palms  should  see  that  they 
get  frequent  baths  and  that  the  fronds  are  properly 
sponged  off.  The  leaves  of  a  plant  are  its  lungs  and 
are  full  of  pores  much  the  same  in  size  and  construc- 
tion as  those  in  the  human  skin,  and  if  these  are 
allowed  to  remain  clogged  with  dirt  and  dust  an  un- 
healthy condition  must  eventually  ensue. 

Phoenix  Roebelenii,  the  dwarf  phoenix,  a  new 
and  beautiful  species  introduced  a  few  years  ago, 
has  taken  a  leading  position  in  the  none  too  long 
list  of  palms  suitable  for  interior  decoration.  It  is 
an  extremely  slow  grower,  much  the  same  shape 
as  other  phoenix,  but  miniature  in  size.  This  species 


IN   CALIFORNIA  105 

appears  to  be  as  tough  and  durable  as  any  of  the 
more  common  ones  so  familiar  to  us,  yet  at  maturity 
reaches  a  total  height  of  but  six  feet,  and  this  only 
after  a  great  many  years. 

A  GENERAL  LIST 

Many  people  include  among  the  ferns  the  several 
species  of  asparagus,  and  one  of  them,  Asparagus 
plumosus,  known  as  the  asparagus  fern,  requires 
similar  treatment.  A.  scandens  deflexus,  a  rare  and 
but  little  known  species,  is  the  most  beautiful  of  all. 
It  is  of  compact  trailing  habit  like  Asparagus  Spren- 
geri,  but  with  very  fine,  dense,  pale  green  foliage. 
Asparagus  Sprengeri,  the  most  enduring  of  all,  is  a 
gross  feeder  and  is  perennially  thirsty.  It  may  be 
grown  either  in  pots  or  hanging  baskets,  and  will 
stand  either  full  sun  or  partial  shade. 

The  aralias,  with  the  exception  of  A.  papyrifera, 
are  adapted  for  house  or  conservatory  culture.  They 
are  very  pretty  decorative  plants  and  do  remarkably 
well  indoors.  A.  Sieboldii  and  A.  Sieboldii  variegata 
are  very  tropical  looking  small  shrubs  with  very 
large,  deeply  lobed  glossy  palmate  leaves,  those  of 
the  latter  broadly  marked  with  creamy  white. 

Aucuba  Japonica,  the  gold  dust  plant,  is  a  very 
handsome  shrub  and  one  of  the  best  of  the  colored- 
leaved  foliage  plants.  With  large  glossy  leaves, 
spotted  with  golden-yellow,  followed  by  bright  scar- 
let berries  in  the  fall,  it  is  a  fine  decorative  house 
plant  and  well  adapted  to  pot  or  tub  culture. 

For  hardiness,  beauty  and  general  utility  as  a 
decorative  specimen  Aspidistra  lurida  may  well  be 
regarded  as  one  of  the  best.  It  will  thrive  for 
months  in  a  room  where  little  light  reaches  it  and 
does  equally  well  as  a  shady  porch  plant  or  in  a  gar- 
den fernery. 


106  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

BEGONIAS 

Begonias  are  divided  into  three  general  classes, 
the  fibrous-rooted,  the  rex  begonia,  grown  for  its 
foliage,  and  the  tuberous-rooted.  There  are  scores 
of  varieties  and  all  thrive  in  the  house  under  pot  cul- 
ture. 

Begonia  manicata  aurea  has  large,  beautifully 
mottled  leaves  of  yellow  and  green  and  fine  pink 
flowers.  It  will  endure  the  dry  heat  of  the  ordinary 
living  room  as  well  as  any  plant' we  have  and  will 
stand  an  unusual  amount  of  neglect  and  ill  usage. 
Those  who  have  grown  it  as  a  house  plant  prefer  it 
to  other  begonias. 

Plant  begonias  in  a  very  loose  soil.  There  is  noth- 
ing better  than  pure  leaf  mold  or  rotted  sod  with  the 
addition  of  coarse  sand.  If  this  is  not  easily  ob- 
tained add  a  portion  of  chopped  sphagnum  moss  to 
any  rich  garden  soil  with  a  little  coarse  soil.  If 
fertilizer  be  used,  let  it  be  old  and  thoroughly  rot- 
ted, like  rich  black  earth,  and  easily  crumbled.  Be- 
gonias are  comparatively  free  from  insect  pests  but 
sometimes  become  infested  with  scale. 

Farfugium  grande  is  a  fine  ornamental,  shade-lov- 
ing plant  with  large  roundish  leaves,  dark  green,  with 
yellow  blotches  or  "polka-dots."  It  makes  a  fine  plant 
for  porch  decoration  when  grown  in  tubs,  or  may 
be  treated  as  an  open  ground  plant  in  shady  places. 

Ficus  elastica  is  commonly  referred  to  as  the  rub- 
ber plant  and  is  a  splendid  plant  of  highly  decorative 
nature.  The  leaves  are  long,  broad,  and  a  deep  shin- 
ing green.  Small  specimens  are  unsurpassed  as 
choice  table  or  parlor  plants,  standing  much  neg- 
lect and  rough  usage. 

Monstera  deliciosa  is  one  of  the  handsomest  of 
tropical  foliage  plants,  with  dark  green  leaves, 


IN  CALIFORNIA  107 

deeply  lobed  and  notched  at  the  edges  and  curiously 
punctured  with  round  and  oval  holes.  The  leaves 
attain  a  width  of  two  feet  by  three  and  a  half  in 
length.  The  plant  is  of  climbing  habit  and  sends 
out  long  aerial  roots  along  the  stem;  these  soon 
reach  the  ground,  take  root  in  the  soil  and  furnish 
the  plant  with  needed  moisture.  There  is  nothing 
more  decorative  for  house  culture.  It  also  does  well 
against  a  wall  in  any  position  where  there  is  plenty 
of  shade,  but  will  not  endure  freezing  temperatures. 

The  idea,  once  so  prevalent,  about  orchids  being 
difficult  subjects  to  grow  and  flower,  is  now  tolerably 
well  exploded.  Some  species  certainly  need  lots  of 
fussing  over,  but  many  kinds  will  succeed  well  in 
any  ordinary  greenhouse,  and  we  have  seen  on  more 
than  one  occasion  nicely  flowered  specimens  grown 
in  dwelling  houses.  Such  sorts  as  Dendrobium  no- 
bile,  Cypripedium  insigne  and  other  terrestrials,  Ly- 
caste  Skinneri,  and  Coelogyne  cristata  will  flower 
satisfactorily  in  an  ordinary  shady  bay  window  if  a 
little  judgment  is  used  in  watering  and  other  essen- 
tial details. 

Pandanus,  Vietchii,  a  dracena-like  plant,  having 
leaves  marked  longitudinally  with  creamy  white 
bands,  in  a  young  state  is  very  effective  as  a  decora- 
tive plant.  Some  people  object  to  P.  Veitchii  on 
account  of  its  fancied  resemblance  to  the  ribbon 
grasses ;  others  have  the  idea  that  it  won't  stand  well 
as  a  house  plant,  that  it  is  harmed  by  being  kept  out 
of  a  high  temperature,  which  is  not  the  case.  It  will 
thrive  equally  as  well  as  "Ficus  elastica,  provided 
root  conditions  are  favorable — that  is,  good  drainage 
and  porous  soil.  It  will  not  permanently  stand  a  low 
temperature,  however,  and  requires  a  warm,  sunny 
room  for  best  development. 


108  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

KEEP  PLANTS  CLEAN 

Keep  your  plants  free  from  dust  and  vermin  at 
all  times.  Dust  closes  the  pores  and  thereby  stops 
circulation  in  plants  as  surely  as  it  does  in  the  hu- 
man body.  Half  a  dozen  scale  insects,  if  neglected 
today,  mean  several  times  the  number  in  a  few 
weeks,  though  such  a  caution  in  this  volume  is  hardly 
necessary,  for  nearly  everyone  owning  plants  is 
painfully  aware  of  the  rapid  increase  of  all  scales. 
If  plants  have  light  from  but  one  or  two  sides,  turn 
them  around  every  few  days  to  keep  them  sym- 
metrical. Keep  the  surface  of  the  soil  pulverized 
and  loose,  so  that  it  can  get  water  and  air  readily. 
If  the  soil  is  moldy  on  top  or  shows  on  the  outside 
of  the  pot,  the  drainage  is  at  fault. 

CARE  OF  CUT  FLOWERS 

Cut  flowers  when  properly  treated  can  be  kept 
fresh  for  two  to  three  weeks.  Every  night  take  them 
out  of  the  water  and  thoroughly  rinse  the  stalks, 
removing  decomposed  matter.  Put  them  into  a  basin 
of  strong  soapsuds,  but  do  not  allow  any  water  to 
touch  the  flowers.  In  the  morning  rinse  the  stalks 
in  the  water  again,  and,  as  each  blossom  is  arranged 
in  a  vase  of  fresh  water,  cut  off  a  small  portion  of 
the  stem,  for  each  day  the  pores  are  closed  by  con- 
gealing sap  and  a  fresh  cut  allows  water  free  access 
to  the  stem. 


GERMAN    IRIS,    LORELEI 


CHAPTER  IX 
BULBS  AND  TUBERS 

Bulbous  plants  are  among  the  most  beautiful  orna- 
ments of  gardens  and  when  well  selected  some  kinds 
may  be  seen  in  bloom  every  day  in  the  year.  It  is 
important  to  plant  nearly  all  imported  bulbs,  espe- 
cially narcissi  and  lilies,  as  soon  as  they  can  be  ob- 
tained, generally  in  September.  Iris  and  gladioli  can 
be  planted  at  different  times,  even  as  late  as  June, 
to  secure  a  succession  of  blooms.  No  fertilizers  ex- 
cept bone  meal  need  be  used,  ammonia  in  any  form 
being  injurious  to  them. 

—  To  get  good  effects  and  pleasing  groups  with  this 
class  of  plants  one  ought  to  be  well  acquainted  with 
their  habits,  likes  and  dislikes,  and  success  can  be 
attained  only  by  selecting  types  that  will  succeed  in 
the  different  places  where  they  can  be  planted.  When 
making  plantations  the  main  object  should  be  to  get 
as  natural  an  effect  as  possible.  Care  should  be 
taken  not  to  plant  the  bulbs  in  straight  lines,  curves 
or  circles.  Most  of  the  common  bulbs  are  so  cheap 
they  should  be  planted  in  large  masses,  the  aim  be- 
ing to  obtain  color  in  such  quantity  as  to  prove  effec- 
tive when  seen  from  a  distance. 

Bulbous  plants  store  up  plant  food  which  enables 
them  to  pass  a  season  in  a  dormant  state  in  the  arid 
regions  of  the  world  or  else  pass  a  season  of  rest 
buried  in  the  ground  where  the  winters  are  long  and 
severe.  The  majority  of  bulbous  plants  have  their 
origin  in  South  Africa,  Japan  and  America.  We 
grow  more  from  South  Africa,  known  as  "Cape 


110  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

bulbs,"  than  from  any  other  one  place.  We  also  have 
a  considerable  number  of  natives  that  are  worthy  of 
a  place  in  any  garden,  especially  in  those  of  all  loyal 
Californians. 

In  arranging  our  bulbous  border  it  will  be  very 
satisfactory  to  arrange  them  by  themselves,  select- 
ing varieties  which  give  a  continuity  of  bloom 
throughout  the  year.  A  well  selected  collection  of 
bulbous  plants  will  give  us  a  great  deal  of  satisfac- 
tion, and  though  the  original  cost  is  greater  than 
that  of  seeds,  when  we  take  into  consideration  the 
increase  in  number  and  value  each  year,  it  will  read- 
ily be  seen  that  the  cost  is  more  apparent  than  real. 
It  is  far  better  to  select  a  considerable  number  of  one 
species  which  are  known  to  do  well  than  to  select  a 
single  specimen  of  a  large  number  of  sorts. 

WHAT  To  GROW 

Agapanthus  umbellatus  from  South  Africa  with 
large  umbels  of  blue  flowers  is  most  desirable  and 
flowers  during  summer.  Good  companions  to  the 
agapanthus  are  the  tritomas,  or  kniphofias,  known 
as  the  red-hot  pokers ;  a  mass  of  these  brilliant  torch- 
like  blooms  is  very  striking,  and  they  are  good,  per- 
sistent bloomers.  Of  late  years  we  have  had  some 
fine  horticultural  varieties  of  red-hot  pokers  sent  to 
us  from  Europe. 

The  amaryllis  and  hippeastrums  should  be  used 
in  considerable  quantity  as  they  do  remarkably  well 
with  us.  The  varieties  of  Amaryllis  belladonna,  both 
major  and  minor,  Hippeastrum  vittata  with  its  hy- 
brids, and  the  nearly  allied  Sprekelia  formosissima, 
do  well.  In  planting  them  barely  cover  the  bulbs 
with  soil  and  do  not  disturb. 

Everyone  having  a  shady  corner  in  the  garden, 
with  a  light,  well-drained  soil,  should  grow  a  few 


IN   CALIFORNIA  111 

cyclamen,  "shooting  stars,"  or  "Persian  violets,"  as 
they  are  variously  called.  Except  for  a  short  season 
during  the  heated  spell  they  bloom  more  continu- 
ously than  other  bulbous  plants. 

The  freesia  is  a  good  dwarf  bulb  doing  well  in 
clumps  or  borders.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  dig  them 
after  they  have  ripened,  six  weeks  or  two  months 
after  last  rain,  and  plant  out  again  in  September  or 
October.  Care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  you  get 
pure  whites  rather  than  the  gray,  washy  whites. 

A  most  interesting  and  satisfactory  group  of 
plants  are  the  day  lilies,  hemerocallis,  and  splendidly 
do  they  thrive  in  California;  indeed  no  garden  of 
any  pretentions  is  complete  without  them.  Few 
plants  we  grow  have  such  a  long  blooming  season, 
and  none  in  the  family  are  more  easily  grown.  It 
is  regrettable  that  the  range  of  color  is  not  greater, 
running  from  a  pale  yellow  to  a  deep  bronze-orange. 

Tritonias,  or  montbretias,  are  good  summer  flow- 
ering bulbs  and  very  effective  when  arranged  in 
clumps  of  six  or  eight  bulbs  a  few  inches  apart  or 
planted  in  large  masses.  When  they  get  too  thick, 
which  is  generally  about  every  third  year,  the  bulbs 
should  be  thinned  out,  as  they  do  not  flower  so  well 
when  crowded.  They  come  in  all  shades  from  pale 
yellow  to  crimson. 

Every  year  adds  to  the  list  many  devotees  of  the 
tuberous  begonia.  This  section  of  begonias  should 
really  be  called  the  flowering  begonias  for  the  reasoi? 
that  the  flowers  surpass  in  size  any  other  section  of 
the  family.  They  come  in  every  color  and  shade 
except  the  blues  and  are  in  many  forms,  single, 
semi-double  and  double. 

The  canna  is  another  very  satisfactory  plant  and 
with  good  cultivation  and  thinning  out  it  can  be 
left  in  the  ground.  Clumps  should  be  divided  and 


112  THE   GARDEN  BEAUTIFUL 

reset  occasionally  as  they  deteriorate  when  too  much 
crowded.  No  class  of  plants  in  late  years  has  been 
so  much  improved  as  has  the  canna. 

One  of  the  most  effective  plants  that  go  to  make 
up  the  tropical  garden  is  the  crinum,  often  dubbed 
"spider  lily"  because  in  many  species  the  petals  are 
long  and  slender,  giving  the  flower  a  slight  resem- 
blance to  a  huge  spider.  Not  all,  however,  have 
these  attenuated  blossoms;  some  species  have 
flowers  of  a  shape  similar  to  those  of  the  amaryllis 
or  belladonna  lily. 

The  oxalis,  found  in  several  colors,  makes  a  fine 
carpet  and  winter  blooming  plant  which  is  exceed- 
ingly easy  to  grow.  In  fact,  it  prefers  neglect. 
Oxalis  varies  greatly,  both  in  foliage  and  color  of 
flower,  and  is  not  sufficiently  appreciated  in  Cali- 
fornia. 

The  aroids,  or  order  Aroideae,  is  represented  here 
by  callas,  elephant's  ears,  Jack-in-the-pulpit,  mon- 
steras,  philodendrons  and  many  other  plants  both 
tropical  and  hardy.  The  callas  comprise  several 
genera  and  are  generally  known  as  white,  yellow, 
pink,  green,  black,  or  spotted  callas.  They  are  in 
botany,  richardias,  arums,  dracunculus,  amorpho- 
phallus,  sauratum,  etc.  One  who  has  a  full  collec- 
tion of  aroids  has  a  group  of  plants  nearly  as  curi- 
ous as  the  tribe  of  cactus. 

Our  native  California  bulbs  should  not  be  over- 
looked ;  we  have  many  species  of  fine  lilies,  Mariposa, 
or  butterfly  lilies,  brodiaeas,  or  wild  hyacinths. 

DAHLIAS  AND  THEIR  CULTURE 

Few  cultivated  plants  have  such  a  wide  range  of 
colors  as  the  dahlia.  It  is  one  of  the  old-fashioned, 
practical  flowers  that  has  been  improved  much  of 
late  years.  Those  who  have  seen  only  the  round, 


IN   CALIFORNIA  113 

stiff  blooms  of  the  old  form  will  hardly  recognize  it 
in  the  unique,  artistic  and  showy  blooms  of  the 
"cactus"  and  decorative  types.  They  are  both  sin- 
gle and  double  and  in  all  shades.  The  old  stiff  forms 
have  given  way  to  loose,  fantastic  shapes.  New  ir- 
regular and  esthetic  varieties  now  originated  and 
being  introduced  have  redeemed  the  dahlia  and 
made  it  one  of  the  most  popular  garden  flowers. 
Every  conceivable  color  and  shade  of  color  from 
pure  white  to  almost  black  is  now  represented. 

Not  all  dahlias  require  like  treatment,  and  in 
some  situations  and  soils  a  few  will  be  found  to 
behave  rather  indifferently.  It  is  best  to  grow  a 
wide  range  for  the  first  two  years  and  at  the  end 
of  that  time  discard  those  that  do  not  produce  abun- 
dantly and  satisfactorily.  It  is  well  to  make  two 
or  three  plantings  of  dahlias  if  you  succeed  in  hold- 
ing the  roots  dormant  until  quite  late  in  the  spring. 
Often  the  season  has  much  to  do  with  excellence 
of  blossom,  and  if  you  have  planted  all  at  once,  the 
whole  lot  may  turn  out  poorly.  Dahlias  are  gross 
feeders  and  should  be  well  supplied  with  food  and 
drink,  more  especially  from  the  time  the  buds  show. 
From  this  time  until  blooming  season  is  over  they 
must  never  suffer  for  water.  Planted  in  March 
they  will  bloom  profusely  and  continuously  from 
June  till  November.  Any  kind  of  soil  suits  them 
provided  it  is  moist  and  rich.  Plant  the  roots  about 
six  inches  deep.  When  the  shoots  appear  break  off 
all  but  the  strongest  one.  When  this  has  grown  four 
or  five  inches  high  pinch  out  the  top  or  end — it  will 
soon  branch  out — after  which  fill  in  around  the  plant 
with  well-rotted  manure.  Treated  in  this  way  they 
will  grow  strong  and  sturdy  and  resist  high  winds. 
If  you  wish  the  finest  flowers  disbud  freely,  pinching 
out  all  the  buds  except  one  on  each  stem.  The  im- 


114  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

provement  in  size  and  beauty  of  the  blossoms  more 
than  repays  the  extra  trouble.  If  you  wish  ordinary 
dahlias  only,  water  and  feed  freely  and  let  them 
grow  as  they  will,  staking  and  tying  them  if  they 
are  in  danger  of  breaking  down. 

HlPPEASTRUMS 

These  gorgeous  flowers,  usually  called  amaryllis, 
are  unsurpassed  among  bulbous  plants  either  for 
size  or  richness  of  color.  California  hybridizers 
have  produced  the  finest  in  the  world  and  have 
received  the  congratulations  and  plaudits  of  the 
leading  growers  both  at  home  and  in  foreign  lands. 

The  flowers  range  in  color  from  a  pure  white 
ground  color  with  light  or  heavy  markings  of  blush, 
rose,  pink  and  red,  to  striped  and  mottled  combina- 
tions of  white  with  red,  scarlet,  crimson  and  ma- 
roon; also  in  the  latter  colors  in  "selfs"  or  but  a 
single  color  in  each  flower.  The  newer  sorts  have 
no  tinge  of  green  either  in  the  throat  or  on  the  re- 
verse side  and  all  are  overlaid  with  a  satiny  sheen  or 
luster  that  grows  brighter  as  the  colors  deepen. 

The  shape  of  the  flower  is  a  spreading,  blunt- 
pointed  star,  with  overlapping  petals,  in  some  cases 
revolute,  or  rolling  backward  at  the  tips,  vastly  su- 
perior to  the  old  type.  The  flowers  are  also  of 
enormous  size,  occasionally  attaining  ten  inches  in 
diameter,  with  a  half-dozen  blossoms  on  one  giant 
stem  three  feet  in  height.  They  are  of  the  easiest 
possible  culture  and  thrive  in  any  rich  soil  in  a 
sunny  exposure  or  are  splendid  subjects  for  pot 
culture,  vigor  and  number  of  blooms  increasing  with 
age. 

For  these  bulbs  the  soil  should  be  enriched  with 
a  liberal  quantity  of  decomposed  manure  most  thor- 
oughly mixed  with  the  soil  by  spading,  respading 


IN  CALIFORNIA  115 

and  raking  until  the  surface  is  well  pulverized. 
Such  work  will  repay  for  time  and  trouble  in  blos- 
soms of  superior  size  and  color.  Plant  in  a  sunny 
position,  so  that  the  top  of  the  bulb  just  shows 
through  the  soil.  When  growth  begins  irrigate 
heavily  and  frequently  and  keep  the  soil  moist  at 
all  times  until  the  flowers  have  been  cut  or  have 
died.  When  the  buds  appear  the  color  of  the  flowers 
may  be  maintained  in  richest  hues  by  a  slight  shad- 
ing from  the  sun.  Cheesecloth  or  even  thin  burlap, 
if  not  too  close  to  the  flowers,  will  insure  sufficient 
protection  and  brilliant  colors.  In  California  the 
better  practice  is  to  leave  the  bulbs  three  years 
undisturbed,  after  which  they  may  be  divided  and 
replanted,  giving  one  an  ever-increasing  stock  of 
the  most  showy  garden  flowers  grown. 

LILIES 

Among  flowering  bulbs  the  lily  has  no  rival,  and 
it  is  a  question  if  its  beauty  is  surpassed  by  any 
family  of  flowers.  A  majority  of  our  best  garden 
sorts  come  from  western  Asia,  China  and  Burma, 
while  Japan  and  other  islands  furnish  a  great  many. 
There  are  about  2000  species  known  and  about  one- 
half  of  them  have  been  in  cultivation.  All  seem  to 
be  natives  of  the  north  temperate  zone.  South  Af- 
rica, which  might  aptly  be  called  "the  land  of  bulbs," 
contains  no  members  of  the  genus  lilium. 

Lilies  always  look  best  when  massed  or  planted 
in  clumps  and  are  quite  in  their  natural  position 
if  planted  along  a  shrub  border  with  a  background 
of  other  vegetation.  Plant  in  a  deeply-worked  soil, 
and  if  this  is  heavy  it  would  be  better  to  lighten  it 
with  sand  and  well-rotted  manure.  While  lilies  need 
plenty  of  water  the  drainage  should  be  good.  The 
bulbs  should  be  five  inches  below  the  ground  line. 
Avoid  fresh  manures. 


116  THE  GARDEN  BEAUTIFUL 

A  variety  of  soils  is  necessary  to  success  if  a  large 
general  collection  is  to  be  cultivated,  though  a  light 
soil  is  better  than  heavy  for  the  sorts  most  commonly 
grown,  even  if  it  contains  some  gravel.  No  general 
culture  can  be  given  to  fit  all  kinds,  but  the  directions 
for  care  which  we  give  will  strike  a  good  average 
treatment. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  put  a  handful  of  fine  sharp 
sand  under  all  bulbs  planted  in  the  fall,  for  it  les- 
sens the  chances  of  decay  and  allows  the  roots  a 
better  start.  In  the  case  of  lily  bulbs  it  is  also  a 
good  plan  to  drop  some  sand  on  top  of  the  bulb;  it 
is  much  better  to  fill  the  interstices  between  the 
scales  with  sand  than  to  have  them  full  of  soil  con- 
taining decaying  vegetable  matter. 

Lilium  superbum  will  thrive  in  a  very  heavy  soil ; 
L.  tigrinum  will  do  in  any,  while  the  following  are 
adapted  to  light  soils:  auratum,  chalcedonicum, 
candidum,  longiflorum  and  the  varieties  of  specio- 
sum.  Among  the  best  sorts  to  grow  are :  auratum, 
the  gold-banded  lily  of  Japan,  white  with  bands  of 
yellow  and  spots  of  purple ;  candidum,  the  Madonna 
lily  from  southern  Europe ;  longiflorum  variety  exim- 
ium;  Lilium  Harrisii,  the  Bermuda  or  Easter  lily, 
from  China  and  Japan;  speciosum  variety  rubrum 
from  Japan;  tigrinum  from  China  and  Japan,  the 
tiger  lily  of  old-fashioned  gardens,  though  the  vari- 
ety splendens  of  the  tiger  lily  is  far  better  than  the 
old  type,  having  large,  nodding,  bright  red  flowers 
freely  spotted  with  large  purplish  spots ;  superbum, 
the  American  Turk's  cap,  which  grows  wild  in  the 
eastern  half  of  this  country;  and  many  of  our  na- 
tives are  well  worthy  of  cultivation.  The  most  pop- 
ular Californian  lily  in  the  eastern  states  is  L. 
Washingtonianum,  and  the  one  common  throughout 


IN  CALIFORNIA  117 

the  state,  Lilium  Humboldtii,  would  prove  a  valuable 
addition  to  any  collection. 

GLADIOLI 

None  of  the  old  garden  favorites  have  stood  the 
test  of  time  better  or  have  kept  up  to  a  more  satis- 
factory standard  than  the  gladioli,  and  today  they 
are  more  popular  than  at  the  time  of  their  introduc- 
tion. In  all  parts  of  the  earth  specialists  are  striv- 
ing for  new  colors,  forms,  habits,  etc.,  but  in  the 
meantime  the  good  old  garden  strains  have  not  been 
forgotten,  and  we  have  today  a  really  gorgeous  col- 
lection of  color  easily  within  the  reach  of  all. 

Gladioli  are  not  particular  as  to  soil,  thriving 
fairly  well  in  any,  and  they  are  just  as  cosmopolitan 
regarding  climate.  In  general  they  seem  to  thrive 
best  in  light,  friable,  sandy  loam,  though  in  such  a 
soil  frequent  cultivation  and  irrigation  will  insure 
success.  The  incorporation  of  well-rotted  stable 
manure  and  wood  ashes  will  go  far  toward  making 
a  strong  growth  with  flowers  of  good  size  and  tex- 
ture. The  application  of  a  fertilizer  strong  in  nitro- 
gen caused  the  author's  gladioli  to  run  up  to  six 
feet  in  height,  making  staking  necessary,  and  pro- 
duced a  succulent  growth  quite  lacking  in  firmness. 
A  lot  planted  two  weeks  later,  with  vegetable  ashes 
only  applied,  produced  a  fine  dark  green  growth, 
very  sturdy  in  habit  and  less  than  half  as  tall  as 
the  first  lot.  Plant  your  bulbs  early  as  possible  for 
the  main  crop — January  is  best — and  for  later  plant- 
ings choose  each  time  those  farthest  started  into 
new  growth,  though  best  results  are  obtained  by 
planting  a  month  before  the  shoots  will  start.  Put 
bulbs  at  least  four  inches  deep  in  soil.  Copious 
waterings  at  regular  intervals  are  necessary. 

Everybody  loves  to  have  plants  that  originated, 


118  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

after  a  fashion,  in  their  own  garden,  and  also  to 
have  those  unlike  any  to  be  found  elsewhere.  Here 
is  where  the  charm  of  crossing  comes  in.  Get  the 
best  bulbs  you  can  buy ;  no  use  fooling  with  inferior 
parents  if  you  desire  high-grade  offspring.  Pull  up 
and  throw  away  any  coming  into  flower  that  are 
off  in  color,  size,  form  or  vigor.  Plant  breeding 
answers  to  the  same  rules  as  animal  breeding,  so 
pick  none  but  the  best  parents.  When  you  have 
spikes  coming  into  bloom  and  wish  to  cross,  you 
had  best  proceed  in  the  following  manner:  Take 
off,  simply  by  picking  with  the  fingers,  the  three 
stamens  every  blossom  has,  being  sure  that  no  part 
of  them  remains  on  the  slender  stem  on  which  they 
hang.  This  emasculation  should  be  rigidly  followed 
out  as  early  as  possible  every  morning.  The  sta- 
mens of  your  choicest  should  be  saved,  as  they  con- 
tain the  all-necessary  pollen ;  the  remainder  may  be 
thrown  away. 

Every  stamen  has  two  long,  narrow  pollen  sacs 
which  may  easily  be  found  by  examination.  Take 
a  little  of  the  pollen  on  the  end  of  a  toothpick  and 
put  in  the  "throat"  and  "troughs"  of  the  three- 
pronged  pistil,  using  enough  to  completely  choke  the 
mouth  of  the  small  tube  which  runs  down  to  the 
ovaries  at  base  of  blossom.  We  who  are  looking  for 
scientific  determinations  only  fertilize  our  blossoms 
somewhat  differently;  the  author  pollenizes  each 
floret  three  mornings  in  succession  and  covers  each 
spike  with  a  paper  sack,  tying  it  about  the  stem  to 
prevent  insects  entering  the  blossom.  Commercial 
growers  do  not  take  these  precautions  except  in 
case  of  a  few  "pets,"  and  it  is  not  strictly  necessary, 
for  a  pistil  well  choked  with  pollen  is  not  very  liable 
to  contamination  by  other  pollen.  Small  sacks  or 
boxes  should  be  provided  for  the  seeds  on  which  is 


IN   CALIFORNIA  119 

written  the  cross,  the  seed-bearing  parent,  the  plant 
the  pod  is  taken  from,  always  appearing  first,  as: 
"America  x  Aphrodite"  if  pods  are  from  the  first- 
named  or  "Aphrodite  x  America"  if  the  former 
was  fertilized  by  pollen  from  America.  In  case 
named  sorts  are  not  used  they  may'  be  numbered 
thus:  46xAmerica  or  22x46.  It  is  better  to  pick 
seed  pods  from  each  stem  as  they  ripen,  and  this 
just  before  they  begin  to  split  open.  Six  pods  are 
enough  for  any  stem  to  mature.  In  our  climate  we 
may  sow  these  seeds  at  almost  any  time,  though  the 
spring  and  early  summer  is  preferable. 

THE  IRIS 

This  flower  was  named  from  Iris,  a  radiant  god- 
dess arrayed  in  garments  of  surpassing  splendor,  a 
personification  of  the  rainbow  which  is  a  concen- 
tration of  all  tints,  rays  and  coloring  of,  beauty. 
The  German  iris,  sometimes  called  the  poor  man's 
orchid,  for  the  reason  that  it  is  so  easily  cultivated, 
is  especially  desirable  for  many  locations  and  is 
very  happy  in  low,  wet  ground,  but  will  bloom  freely 
in  the  common  border.  The  varieties  are  almost 
numberless,  and  the  grace  and  coloring  of  flowers 
exquisitely  beautiful. 

Nearly  200  species  of  the  iris  family  are  known 
to  botanists,  and  many  of  these  are  not  yet  known 
to  commerce.  This  accounts  for  frequent  announce- 
ments by  dealers  of  "an  entirely  new  iris."  We 
have  a  considerable  number  of  splendid  types,  and 
were  the  iris  alone  taken  out  of  our  gardens  it 
would  be  sorely  missed.  The  fact  is  that  it  is  not 
nearly  so  much  grown  as  it  should  be,  for  there  is 
no  member  of  the  family  but  is  desirable  for  even 
the  best  of  gardens.  Of  late  years  so  many  new 
species  have  been  introduced  and  such  a  great  num- 


120  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

ber  of  hybrids  and  crosses  obtained  by  the  plant 
breeder  that  today  a  large  and  varied  collection  of 
iris  will  rival  in  beauty  and  interest  that  of  any 
family  in  the  plant  kingdom.  In  German  iris  al- 
most every  color  but  a  pure,  deep  yellow  may  be 
obtained  in  the  local  market.  We  have  iris  known 
as  English,  German,  Spanish,  Japanese,  alpine,  and 
numbers  of  others  with  less  comprehensive  geo- 
graphical names,  yet  not  less  beautiful  or  desirable. 
All  are  happily  very  cosmopolitan  in  their  require- 
ments, so  that  no  one  need  fear  failure  in  their 
culture. 

Moraea  iridioides  is  the  name  of  a  beautiful  flower 
of  the  iris  family,  close  to  the  true  irises,  from 
which  it  differs  but  in  floral  organs.  The  ground 
color  is  pure  white,  and  the  narrow  petals  have  a 
midrib  of  deep  yellow,  while  the  broader  set  are 
delicately  etched  through  the  middle  with  chocolate 
brown.  Unlike  the  true  irises  this  plant  blooms  at 
any  season. 

DUTCH  OR  HOLLAND  BULBS 

The  principal  Dutch  bulbs  grown  in  California 
are  hyacinths,  narcissi,  and  tulips.  This  class  is 
called  Dutch  bulbs,  not  because  they  are  natives  of 
Holland,  but  because  nearly  all  these  bulbs  are  prop- 
agated and  grown  in  Holland.  Both  the  climate 
and  soil  in  Holland  appear  to  be  remarkably  favor- 
able to  the  growth  of  this  class  of  bulbs.  The  soil 
where  they  are  grown  is  sandy,  with  water  a  short 
distance  below  the  surface,  so  that  the  plants  are 
practically  secure  from  drouth.  Shipments  of  bulbs 
are  made  in  autumn  from  Holland  to  all  parts  of 
the  world.  We  usually  receive  them  about  October, 
and  they  are  ready  to  be  started  for  blooming  as 
soon  as  received.  The  planting  should  not  be  long 
delayed,  that  is,  it  must  be  done  during  the  fall 


IN   CALIFORNIA  121 

months.  Many  people  see  flowers  of  bulbous  plants 
in  the  spring  and  send  to  dealers  to  purchase  the 
bulbs,  only  to  be  disappointed,  not  understanding 
that  they  must  be  planted  in  the  fall. 

The  soil  for  bulbs  should  be  in  good  condition, 
enriched  with  well-rotted  stable  manure,  or,  in  ab- 
sence of  that,  with  some  good  commercial  fertilizer. 
The  bulbs  will  bloom  even  in  poor  soil,  and  hya- 
cinths and  narcissus  are  frequently  bloomed  in 
water,  but  in  good  soil  there  is  better  growth  of 
foliage,  and  this  is  favorable  to  finer  flowers. 

Pot  single  bulbs  of  hyacinth  in  four-inch  pots,  or 
three  or  four  in  a  six-inch  pot.  Set  the  bulb  so  that 
when  the  soil  is  filled  in  the  top  will  be  just  at  the 
surface.  Pot  the  narcissi  in  the  same  manner. 
After  the  bulbs  are  potted,  water  and  set  away  in 
a  cool,  dark  place  for  some  weeks,  where  they  will 
make  roots,  before  bringing  them  into  the  light  and 
warmth  where  they  will  rapidly  develop  blooming 
spikes.  Potted  bulbs  that  have  been  set  away  in 
the  dark  should  be  looked  over  every  few  days,  and 
any  pots  that  need  it  watered,  as  the  soil  should  not 
be  allowed  to  get  quite  dry.  When  the  plants  are 
brought  to  the  light  and  begin  to  grow  vigorously 
they  may  be  watered  freely. 

For  growing  in  water  they  are  usually  put  in  a 
shallow  bowl  and  kept  in  place  with  pebbles  packed 
about  them.  A  six-inch  glass  dish  or  bowl  will 
easily  hold  three  bulbs.  It  is  better  to  keep  the  base 
of  the  bulb  just  above  the  surface  rather  than  in  it, 
as  in  the  latter  case  the  bulbs  will  sometimes  decay. 
Narcissi  are  greedy  for  water,  and  this  is  one  rea- 
son this  method  is  adopted,  though  more  easily 
grown  in  soil  if  abundance  of  water  is  supplied. 
FERTILIZER  FOR  BULBS 

It  is  usually  conceded  that  of  all  special  fertilizers 


122  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

those  found  best  for  potatoes  will  do  best  for  a 
general  mixed  stock  of  what  is  usually  termed 
"bulbs."  One  carrying  four  per  cent  of  nitrogen, 
eight  per  cent  of  phosphoric  acid  and  ten  per  cent 
of  potash  is  made  as  follows :  nitrate  of  soda,  thirty 
pounds ;  sulphate  of  ammonia,  twenty  pounds ;  tank- 
age, 100  pounds;  acid  phosphate,  250  pounds;  muri- 
ate of  potash,  100  pounds;  making  a  total  of  500 
pounds.  Small  gardens  may  easily  use  this  formula 
by  cutting  off  one  cypher  from  each  figure  and  re- 
ducing the  total  weight  to  fifty  pounds.  Use  little 
but  often. 


THE    CHINESE    ROSE,    WHITE    BANKSIA 
Rosa  Banksiae   var,   alba-plena 


CHAPTER  X 
THE  ROSE  GARDEN 

The  rose  is  the  most  universally  beloved  of  flowers 
and  for  all  time  has  been  the  chief  floral  embellish- 
ment in  the  gardens  of  both  castle  and  cottage,  shed- 
ding its  delightful  fragrance  impartially  over  prince 
and  pauper  and  commanding  the  admiration  of 
every  enlightened  people.  It  is  found  in  a  wild 
state  in  all  parts  of  the  earth,  and  cultivated  varie- 
ties are  given  an  equally  wide  dissemination. 

TYPES  OF  ROSES 

The  mosses  are  not  much  grown  in  California, 
and  in  the  southern  end  of  the  state  are  seldom 
seen,  being  chiefly  noted  for  their  scarcity  of  flowers. 
The  varieties  are  usually  known  by  their  names 
specifying  the  type,  as :  Pink  Moss,  Glory  of  Mosses, 
etc. 

The  noisettes  are  better  known  to  us,  though  only 
in  climbing  sorts.  They  are  abundant  bloomers, 
bearing  flowers  in  clusters.  The  better-known  sorts 
are :  Cloth  of  Gold,  Lamarque,  Madam  Alfred  Car- 
riere,  Marechal  Niel,  and  Reve  d'Or. 

The  Bourbons  and  Bengals  are  not  universally 
popular.  The  former  is  extremely  variable  in  type, 
generally  bearing  light-colored  flowers,  while  the 
latter,  often  called  Chinas,  are  small,  compact  grow- 
ers, bearing  myriads  of  fragrant  crimson  flowers, 
and  make  good  hedge  plants.  Examples  are :  Agrip- 
pina,  Grus  an  Teplitz,  Souvenir  de  Malmaison 
(pink  Bourbon) ,  and  James  Sprunt,  a  good  climbing 
sort. 


124  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

The  polyanthas  or  "buttonhole"  roses  are  small, 
very  free  bloomers,  bearing  flowers  of  most  exqui- 
site form.  The  ones  best  known  are  Cecile  Brunner 
and  its  climbing  variety,  Baby  Rambler,  Crimson 
Rambler,  and  Yellow  Rambler. 

The  teas  are  an  old-time,  free-blooming,  "cranky" 
type,  their  luxuriance  of  flowers,  delicate  tints,  and 
fine  forms  making  them  very  popular.  They  grow 
less  vigorously  than  the  hybrid  teas,  but  many  of 
them  will  thrive  in  soils  too  light  and  sandy  for 
hybrid  perpetuals.  Some  of  the  better-known  and 
time-proven  are :  Bride,  Bridesmaid,  Dean  Hole, 
Duchesse  de  Brabant,  General  McArthur,  Laurette, 
Papa  Gontier,  Peace,  Reine  Marie  Henriette,  and 
Maman  Cochet. 

The  hybrid  teas  are  much  stronger  in  growth  than 
the  teas,  occupying  in  this  respect  a  position  mid- 
way 'twixt  the  teas  and  the  hybrid  perpetuals,  hav- 
ing the  free-flowering  habit  of  the  former,  combined 
with  the  rich  colors  and  general  vigor  of  the  latter. 
Among  them  are:  Caroline  Testout,  Kaiserin  Au- 
gusta Victoria,  Killarney,  La  France,  the  first  of 
this  type,  1867,  and  Madam  Abel  Chatenay. 

Hybrid  perpetuals  or  remontants  are  easily  dis- 
tinguished by  luxuriance  of  foliage,  vigor  of  growth 
and  large  size  of  flowers.  They  are  not  so  exacting 
as  other  types,  thriving  with  less  care,  yet  equally 
responsive  to  good  treatment.  Their  range  in  color 
is  great,  comprising  all  the  shades  and  tints  found 
in  the  other  classes.  They  also  need  more  summer 
rest  and  may  be  more  heavily  pruned.  They  are 
the  best  for  those  who  can  bestow  but  little  care 
on  their  gardens.  Some  of  the  more  common  are: 
American  Beauty,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Magna 
Charta,  Paul  Neyron  and  Ulrich  Brunner.  We  have 
a  few  of  other  types,  such  as  briar,  prairie,  rugosa, 


IN  CALIFORNIA  125 

wichuriana,   but  they   are   little   known   and   less 
grown. 

SOILS  FOR  ROSES 

The  hybrid  teas  or  the  hybrid  perpetuals  thrive 
best  in  heavy  soils,  the  Bourbon  class  do  well  in  any, 
but  the  teas  and  noisettes  seem  to  produce  best  if 
the  soil  is  light  or  somewhat  sandy.  It  is  essential 
in  all  cases  that  drainage  be  good,  and  for  this  rea- 
son some  rosarians  of  experience  remove  all  soil 
from  the  beds  to  the  depth  of  two  feet,  pick  up  the 
bottom  of  the  pit  as  deeply  as  possible,  scatter  a 
little  manure  and  sand  over  the  surface  and  replace 
the  soil,  mixing  it  as  it  goes  back  with  sand  and 
thoroughly  rotted  stable  manure,  being  careful  to 
make  a  good  job  of  the  mixing  process.  A_great 
deal  of  such  work  is  done  in  England,  some  in  the 
eastern  part  of  our  country,  and  but  little"  by  our 
impatient  Californians. 

In  light  soils  there  is  little  doubt  but  own-root 
roses  give  best  satisfaction  over  a  long  term  of 
years,  the  necessity  for  budding  keeping  pace  with 
the  increasing  heaviness,  but,  when  one  reaches 
adobe  or  clay,  it  is  better  either  to  give  up  pure  teas 
and  plant  hybrids  only,  or  convert  the  soil  for  these 
into  one  of  much  lighter  texture.  It  therefore  must 
be  apparent  that  if  you  grow  many  roses  it  will  be 
found  better  to  keep  the  classes  separated.  When 
purchasing  mixed  sorts  of  roses  for  heavy  soils  it 
is  doubtless  better  to  get  them  budded,  for  few 
have  enough  in  number  to  sharply  discriminate  be- 
tween the  classes  as  to  their  specific  needs.  It  is 
well  to  reiterate  that  all  roses  do  best  in  soils  that 
have  been  deeply  stirred  and  well  worked  over. 
SUMMER  TREATMENT 

In  California  roses  need  the  same  amount  of  rest 
that  nature  gives  them  where  winter's  cold  renders 


126  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

all  plant  life  dormant  for  several  months  each  year. 
We  seldom  get  good  roses  in  summer  for  the  reason 
that  the  atmosphere  is  too  hot  and  too  dry,  and  after 
the  heavy  flower  crop  of  winter  and  spring  the 
plants  need  a  period  of  rest  in  which  to  recuperate 
their  vitality. 

In  the  warmer  parts  of  the  state  one  may  have 
autumn  and  holiday  roses  if  water  is  not  given  at 
all  from  the  last  day  of  June  to  not  later  than  the 
first  day  of  October,  preferably  pruning  and  water- 
ing for  the  first  time  during  the  closing  days  of 
September.  If  autumn  roses  are  preferred  it  mat- 
ters not  if  leaves  turn  yellow  or  fall  and  bark  on 
the  smaller  and  younger  growth  becomes  shriveled; 
the  plants  are  not  necessarily  distressed  by  such 
treatment,  for  the  growth  manifesting  such  change 
must  all  be  cut  away  in  any  event.  If  rest  is  the 
only  end  in  view,  the  plants  need  not  for  so  long  be 
deprived  of  water,  or  rest  may  be  begun  later,  or  a 
little  water  be  given  every  month.  In  this  case 
pruning  is  delayed  until  winter. 

All  this  presupposes  that  the  rose  beds  are  where 
they  may  be  kept  under  proper  control.  If  the 
plants  are  in  the  lawn,  either  singly  or  in  beds,  good 
roses  in  large  numbers  will  not  result.  Why  anyone 
will  consider  rose  plants  for  fundamental  landscape 
embellishment  is  very  hard  to  understand,  for  rose 
bushes  severely  pruned  and  soil  in  constant  cultiva- 
tion or  heavily  mulched  do  not  add  to  the  finish 
of  the  landscape.  There  are  other  and  more  fitting 
places  for  growing  rose  bushes  than  may  be  found 
in  any  lawn.  After  being  driven  through  a  couple 
of  years  by  almost  daily  watering  of  the  surround- 
ing grass,  and  allowed  no  periods  of  rest,  that  rose 
plant  is  indeed  hardy  that  will  still  return  a  boun- 
tiful crop  of  flowers.  If  you  need  shrubs  for  the 


IN   CALIFORNIA  127 

lawn  the  markets  contain  a  goodly  variety  of  suit- 
able material,  coming  as  many  of  them  do  from 
lands  where  ordinary  lawn  conditions  largely 
prevail. 

WINTER  TREATMENT 

In  the  last  section  the  reader  was  told  that  if  he 
lived  in  a  practically  frostless  locality  he  might 
have  early  winter  or  holiday  roses,  and  how  best  to 
get  them.  It  was  also  stated  that  if  conditions  were 
less  favorable  severe  pruning  should  be  left  until 
winter.  The  latter  treatment  will  be  found  better 
for  California  in  general. 

In  the  colder  sections,  where  very  sharp  frosts 
prevail  for  a  time,  roses  may  be  pruned  in  Decem- 
ber, for  low  temperatures  stagnate  the  flow  of  sap 
and  ripen  the  wood  so  that  early  pruning  is  admis- 
sible, but  as  dormancy  under  such  conditions  is  pro- 
longed there  is  no  necessity  for  pruning  until  early 
in  the  new  year. 

In  the  warmer  sections,  as  in  the  southern  third 
of  the  state,  the  bay  region  about  San  Francisco 
and  Oakland,  and  in  various  circumscribed  citrus 
belts,  the  pruning  process  is  better  left  until  Janu- 
ary. You  will  then  get  a  crop  of  fine  blossoms  from 
early  spring  until  the  middle  of  summer,  for  roses 
so  treated  will  begin  blooming  in  February  or 
March,  according  to  the  weather,  and  continue  till 
July  unless  spells  of  very  hot  weather  curtail  the 
bloom. 

MILDEW  ON  ROSES 

The  most  serious  trouble  prevalent  with  roses  dur- 
ing winter,  and  somewhat  at  other  times,  is  mildew ; 
and  this  may  be  present  from  one  or  several  causes. 
It  is  sometimes  due  entirely  to  unfavorable  weather 
conditions,  but  in  such  cases  it  attacks  only  sorts 


128  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

unsuited  to  the  climate,  weakly  varieties,  or  those 
in  a  poor  state  of  health.  It  is  usually  present  as 
the  result  of  extreme  conditions — too  wet — too  dry 
— too  hot — too  cold,  etc.  As  an  example,  many 
roses,  especially  the  teas,  will  be  attacked  by  mildew 
whenever  there  is  a  stagnation  of  water  at  the  roots ; 
that  is,  more  water  than  the  plant  can  immediately 
appropriate  or  make  use  of. 

The  more  common  way  in  which  mildew  is  en- 
couraged in  California  is  about  as  follows:  Roses 
are  planted  in  a  bed  fully  exposed  to  the  sun,  or,  if 
climbers,  are  planted  on  the  south  side  of  a  build- 
ing. All  day  the  air  is  hot  and  dry.  In  the  evening 
when  "the  boss"  comes  home  from  work  they  are 
watered,  which  treatment  but  increases  the  chilli- 
ness of  the  night  air,  making  conditions  precisely 
the  reverse  from  those  which  obtain  throughout  the 
day.  These  utmost  extremes — hot  and  dry  by  day, 
cold  and  wet  by  night — are  too  great  to  expect  any 
but  the  hardiest  rose  to  withstand. 

The  proper  treatment  would  tend  to  equalize 
rather  than  accentuate  these  extremes.  Water  in 
the  morning,  early ;  you  will  then  find  the  surround- 
ing atmosphere  to  be  somewhat  moist  all  day,  but 
before  the  chill  of  night  creeps  in  the  plant  and  the 
sun  and  air  will  have  absorbed  nearly  or  quite  all 
of  the  moisture  and  the  air  during  the  night  will  in 
consequence  be  comparatively  warm  and  dry.  This 
latter  treatment,  if  the  surface  soil  is  kept  stirred 
and  the  drainage  is  good,  will  in  a  majority  of  cases 
ward  off  attacks  of  mildew  which,  but  for  such  pre- 
cautions, might  seriously  injure  the  roses. 

PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

There  are  three  methods  of  propagating  or  in- 
creasing the  number  of  roses ;  by  seeds,  by  cuttings, 


IN  CALIFORNIA  129 

and  by  budding  or  grafting.  To  all  who  are  in  any 
wise  grounded  in  knowledge  of  plants  it  is  evident 
that  growing  from  seeds  is  but  a  harmless  pastime 
and  is  not  indulged  in  by  the  amateur  with  any  hope 
of  profit,  for  out  of  a  thousand  seedlings  there  may 
not  be  one  of  any  commercial  value. 

Own-root  roses,  or  those  grown  from  cuttings,  are 
in  the  very  strong-growing  sorts  the  most  glorious 
and  permanently  satisfactory  of  all.  But  there  are 
so  many  fine  sorts  that  are  either  weakly  or  very 
ordinary  on  their  own  roots  that  the  amateur  who 
purchases  had  better  procure  budded  roses,  unless 
he  be  well  posted  on  the  specific  needs  of  the  varie- 
ties he  most  desires.  Grafting  in  effect  is  similar 
to  budding.  If  skillfully  done  it  may  be  slightly 
superior,  but  for  reasons  not  necessary  to  state  it 
is  not  so  practical  for  commercial  purposes. 

PROPAGATION   BY   CUTTINGS 

From  November  1  to  January  is  the  proper  sea- 
son for  propagating  roses  from  cuttings,  for  the 
reason  that  during  the  cool  weather  of  the  rainy 
season  the  cuttings  will  callous,  continue  the  proc- 
ess, and  root  throughout  the  winter,  starting  top 
growth  in  late  winter.  Cuttings  taken  later  do  not 
have  time  to  get  calloused  and  rooted  before  active 
top  growth  is  induced  by  warm  weather,  and  the 
result  is  comparatively  weakly  plants. 

Use  well-cured  wood,  full  of  dormant  eyes,  from 
the  diameter  of  a  lead  pencil  up  to  a  half -inch,  con- 
taining three  or  four  eyes  or  buds  which  will  make 
them  four  to  six  inches  in  length.  Cut  the  lower 
end  from  a  quarter-inch  below  a  bud,  through  the 
cane  on  about  a  forty-five  degree  angle,  using  a  very 
sharp  knife  having  a  thin  blade.  Cut  the  top  end 
a  half -inch  above  a  bud;  there  is  no  need  of  super- 


130  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

fluous  wood  at  either  end.  Select  clean,  straight 
wood  only,  from  vigorous,  healthy  plants. 

Insert  these  cuttings,  all  but  the  top  inch  or  so, 
in  a  bed  of  sharp  washed  river  sand  of  at  least 
four  inches  depth.  Do  not  force  cuttings  down  into 
this  damp,  firm  sand  or  you  will  bruise  the  smoothly- 
cut  end.  Either  make  a  narrow  channel  across  the 
bed  with  an  old  table  knife  turned  slightly  to  open 
sand  to  width  of  cutting,  or  with  a  piece  of  lath  or 
wood  properly  fashioned  or  a  sharpened  stick  of 
greater  diameter  make  a  hole  for  each  cutting. 

Press  the  sand  firmly  about  cuttings  and  wet  down 
well  to  thoroughly  firm  the  sand,  and  never  after- 
ward allow  it  to  become  dry.  If  sand  is  not  avail- 
able, use  the  lightest  and  sandiest  soil  you  can  get 
and  as  free  from  decaying  vegetable  matter  as  pos- 
sible. A  cold  frame  with  a  cloth  or  burlap  cover 
is  ideal,  as  cuttings  should  at  first  be  kept  from 
sun,  and  until  well  started  in  roots,  from  strong 
winds.  Later  in  the  season  when  a  vigorous  young 
root  system  is  assured  the  cuttings  may  be  grad- 
ually exposed  until  full  sunshine  is  given  them.  The 
average  amateur  would  better  use  a  box  in  the 
shade  and  protection  of  a  building,  keeping  it  at 
first  in  the  coolest,  darkest  place  available,  and  well 
protected,  dragging  it  into  light  and  warmth  as  the 
rooting  process  develops.  Dry  off  box  in  late  fall 
until  roses  are  semi-dormant  and  plant  out.  Spring 
propagation,  practiced  by  some,  is  accomplished  by 
same  process. 

BUDDING  AND  GRAFTING 

In  budding  and  grafting  the  work  is  usually  done 
in  growths  of  the  same  diameter  and  condition  as 
that  recommended  for  cuttings.  Grafting  is  so  un- 
common that  the  process  need  not  be  described.  It 


IN   CALIFORNIA 


131 


132  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

should  be  accomplished  in  the  spring.  Budding  may 
be  done  either  in  spring  or  fall,  or  even  in  summer,  if 
plants  are  where  temperature  and  general  conditions 
may  be  controlled. 

When  the  bud  has  been  cut,  very  carefully  pull  out 
the  woody  chip  inside.  Quickly  place  this  in  a  T- 
shape  (or  inverted  T)  cut,  made  previously,  bark- 
deep  only,  in  the  stock  plant  to  be  budded.  Raise  the 
bark  on  one  side  of  the  incision  with  the  wedge- 
shaped  end  of  the  budding  knife,  put  in  one  side  of 
your  bud  shield  and  then  do  likewise  for  the  other 
side.  Bind  the  stem  both  above  and  below  the  bud 
with  raffia,  narrow  strips  of  stout  muslin  or  very 
soft,  coarse  twine  or  candlewick.  When  the  bud 
shows  signs  of  starting,  an  average  time  of  about 
three  weeks,  loosen  the  binding  and  retie.  If  prop- 
erly loosened  and  tied  no  other  restrictive  measures 
need  be  used  and  the  binding  may  be  taken  off  when 
the  bud  has  grown  so  that  the  stem  of  the  stock  above 
the  bud  may  be  cut  off  and  the  full  sap  supply  be 
allowed  to  flow  into  the  new  bud. 

ROSES  FROM  SEEDS 

If  the  rose  hips  or  apples  are  fresh  the  pulp  will 
need  to  be  washed  from  the  seeds.  The  latter  may 
then  be  sown  in  a  mixture  of  sand,  leaf  mold  and 
loam,  covering  about  a  half  inch.  After  sowing  keep 
cool  and  moist.  The  soil  must  have  good  drainage 
yet  not  be  allowed  to  dry.  As  the  seedlings  come 
up,  pot  them  off  or  transplant  to  other  boxes.  Do 
not  be  impatient  if  none  appear  for  weeks,  and  after 
waiting  a  reasonable  time  prepare  a  new  seed  bed, 
put  the  soil  and  seeds  in  a  sieve,  wash  the  former 
through  and  sow  the  latter  again  before  they  dry 
and  cover  with  clean  sand.  Usually  a  good  crop  of 
seedlings  will  result. 


IN  CALIFORNIA  133 

PRUNING  THE  ROSES 

It  is  difficult  to  lay  down  hard  and  fast  rules  for 
pruning  rose  bushes  for  the  reason  that  each  bush 
presents  a  distinct  and  individual  problem,  and  much 
study  and  experience  are  necessary  before  one  is 
fully  competent  to  prune  all  classes  and  kinds  of 
roses  intelligently.  However,  a  few  general  rules 
may  be  given. 

First  cut  the  whole  top  off  at  not  less  than  two 
feet  high  on  good  strong  bushes  established  for  a 
few  years.  This  allows  you  to  get  at  all  parts  of  the 
bush.  Cut  out  small  twiggy  growth  that  is  of  less 
diameter  than  a  lead  pencil.  Next  remove  all  canes 
which  grow  crosswise,  that  would  tend  to  chafe  up- 
right canes  or  interfere  with  their  free  development. 
Do  not  leave  a  group  of  canes  congested  in  the 
center,  but  aim  to  leave  center  of  bushes  free  and 
open.  Do  not  prune  young  roses  severely;  the  first 
year  take  out  weak,  thin  growth  only. 

The  aim  should  be  to  leave  a  strong,  healthy 
framework  of  large,  vigorous  canes,  few  in  number 
and  standing  well  apart,  the  larger  ones  left  longer 
than  the  lesser  ones  by  a  few  inches,  but  seldom  is  it 
well  to  leave  even  the  strongest  more  than  two  feet 
high.  It  matters  little  if  no  foliage  is  left,  for  none 
is  needed.  When  finally  cutting  back  the  few  big 
canes  left  (which  may  number  from  two  to  seven) 
it  is  better  to  cut  a  half  inch  above  an  outside  eye 
or  bud.  This  will  tend  to  spread  the  plant  and  avoid 
crowded  centers  where  neither  light  nor  air  may 
enter. 

As  a  rule  climbers  need  but  little  pruning,  and 
annual  bloomers  such  as  the  Banksias,  Cherokees, 
Glazenwood,  etc.,  should  be  cut  back  immediately 
after  blooming,  if  any  pruning  is  necessary,  for 


134  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

they  then  make  the  wood  that  bears  the  next  season's 
flowers,  and  if  pruning  is  too  long  deferred  the  next 
flower  crop  will  be  indeed  light. 

Those  who  persist  in  pruning  without  protection 
to  the  hands  or  without  the  heaviest  of  gloves  will 
receive  many  painful  punctures  and  lacerations  of 
the  skin.  Get  a  few  corrosive  sublimate  tablets  from 
a  drug  store,  dissolve  one  in  a  pint  of  water  and 
bathe  the  hands  therein  for  several  minutes  and  all 
pain  will  cease  at  once.  This  is  an  excellent  anti- 
septic but  deadly  if  taken  internally,  so  be  careful 
of  both  bath  and  tablets. 

FERTILIZERS  FOR  ROSES 

Immediately  following  pruning,  if  you  have  wood 
ashes,  apply  a  liberal  amount  and  turn  them  lightly 
under  the  soil  or  give  a  good  deep  raking  to  thor- 
oughly incorporate  them  with  the  surface  soil.  Good 
hardwood  ashes  carry  one-fifth  lime,  besides  a  con- 
siderable amount  of  potash.  Coal  ashes  have  no 
nutritive  value.  If  ashes  are  not  available  give  a 
light  sprinkling  of  air-slaked  lime  and  rake  in.  This 
application  should  precede  manuring  by  a  month  if 
possible,  but  is  beneficial  if  foremost  by  but  one  day. 
In  small  gardens  some  put  ten  pounds  of  lime  in  a 
tub,  fill  it  with  water,  allow  lime  to  settle  until  water 
is  clear  and  then  apply  the  latter  to  the  plants.  It 
will  not  prove  too  strong  for  any  rose.  The  settled 
lime  may  be  scattered  elsewhere  in  the  garden. 

There  is  no  question  but  that  thoroughly  decayed 
horse  manure  is  the  best  garden  fertilizer  for  roses 
or  other  plants.  Next  comes  cow  manure.  In  light 
sandy  soils  it  is  of  greater  physical  value  than  in 
heavy  soils.  Fresh  sheep  manure  should  be  used 
with  caution,  as  it  is  strong,  and  poultry  manure  is 


IN   CALIFORNIA  135 

still  stronger  and  must  be  used  sparingly,  though 
one  of  the  best  rose  stimulants  known. 

Commercial  fertilizers,  when  properly  used,  an- 
swer every  requirement  of  the  rose  so  far  as  food 
is  concerned,  but  do  not  aid  the  physical  texture  of 
the  soil.  Pure  bone  meal,  either  raw  or  acidulated, 
is  highly  beneficial  and  may  be  used  heavily  without 
harm  to  the  plants.  It  is  best  used  with  nitrate  of 
soda.  Two  or  three  applications  of  potash  through- 
out the  season  are  better  than  a  single  one,  and 
muriate  is  a  good  form  in  which  to  apply  it. 

One  expert  rose  grower  sows  the  following  mix- 
ture at  the  rate  of  a  pound  and  a  half  to  every  ten 
feet  square  (not  ten  square  feet,  but  ten  by  ten)  : 
Mix  superphosphate  of  lime,  twelve  parts;  nitrate 
of  potash,  ten  parts;  sulphate  of  magnesia,  two 
parts ;  sulphate  of  iron,  one  part ;  sulphate  of  potash, 
eight  parts.  The  author  has  never  tried  this  chem- 
ical recipe. 

Whatever  else  is  fed  to  the  roses,  stable  manure 
should  be  spaded  in  deeply  once  a  year  before 
growth  commences  in  winter.  Then  pulverize  the 
surface  soil,  rake  smooth  and  apply  a  very  heavy 
mulch  of  strawy  horse  manure  when  active  growth 
commences,  and  water  through  this,  being  sure  that 
each  watering  is  sufficient  to  wet  down  below  the 
roots,  and  apply  only  as  often  as  required.  The 
heavy  mulch  will  prevent  weeds  growing,  keep  the 
soil  cool  during  the  heat  of  summer,  and  materially 
prolong  the  flowering  period. 

THE  BEST  SORTS 

Owing  to  the  wide  diversity  of  personal  taste,  and 
the  variations  of  climate,  soils,  temperature,  etc., 
throughout  the  state,  it  would  hardly  do  to  recom- 
mend any  restricted  list  of  roses  as  the  very  best 


136  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

sorts  for  any  or  all  to  grow.  Therefore,  the  lists 
herein  given  consist  of  one  dozen  each  of  the  four 
recognized  standards  of  color ;  roses  that  the  author 
has  either  grown  in  his  own  garden  or  closely 
studied  in  the  gardens  of  others,  and  believed  by 
him  to  be  the  best  of  those  commonly  for  sale 
throughout  California.  They  are  listed  alphabet- 
ically; no  preferences  shown.  The  letters  following 
the  names  indicate  the  class  to  which  each  belongs, 
thus :  T.,  tea ;  H.  T.,  hybrid  tea ;  H.  P.,  hybrid  per- 
petual ;  B.  or  C.,  Bengal  or  China ;  N.,  noisette ;  Poly., 
polyantha. 

WHITES 

The  White  La  France,  properly  Augustine  Gui- 
noisseau,  is  a  nearly  white  hybrid  tea,  carrying  a 
slight  tint  of  fawn  color.  The  latest  first-class  white, 
the  finest  of  all,  is  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  H.  P.  Ivory, 
a  tea,  is  pure  white  and  therein  somewhat  belies  its 
name,  for  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  H.  P.,  is  the 
best  ivory-white.  Mabel  Morrison,  H.  P.,  is  a  fine 
old  rose  of  snow-white,  sometimes  faintly  tinged 
with  pink.  Molly  Sharman-Crawford,  H.  T.,  is  one 
of  the  newer  roses  which  proves  pure  white  at  all 
times,  and  this  is  likewise  true  of  Niphetos,  a  tea 
rose,  doing  well  in  shaded  positions.  Perle  von 
Godesburg,  H.  T.,  is  creamy  white,  tinted  with  yel- 
low, in  all  other  ways  closely  resembling  the  Kais- 
erin. The  Bride,  a  pure  white  tea,  is  of  somewhat 
weakly  habit  except  under  ideal  conditions,  and  will 
thrive  in  partial  shade.  The  Queen  is  another  pure 
white  tea  and  more  robust  than  The  Bride,  as  a 
queen  should  be.  White  Killarney,  H.  T.,  a  pure 
white  sport  from  Killarney,  is  equally  as  good  as 
its  distinguished  parent.  White  Maman  Cochet,  T., 
is  always  suffused  with  pink  in  the  outer  petals. 


IN  CALIFORNIA  137 

PINKS 

Belle  Siebrecht,  H.  T.,  is  a  long-pointed  rosy-pink ; 
Betty,  H.  T.,  is  a  large,  less  double,  coppery  rose, 
while  still  another  shade,  shell-pink,  is  shown  in 
Clara  Watson,  also  a  hybrid  tea.  Killarney,  H.  T., 
is  flesh-pink,  slightly  suffused  with  shell-pink  or 
silvery-pink.  Madam  Abel  Chatenay,  H.  T.,  is  called 
a  shell-pink,  tinged  on  the  outer  petals  with  salmon ; 
a  splendid  robust  producer  of  perfect  blossoms ;  the 
author's  better  half  considers  it  the  best  rose  in  her 
garden  of  a  hundred  sorts.  Madam  Leon  Pain  is 
another  shell-pink,  salmon-tinted,  that  is  a  close 
rival  of  the  last-named.  Mile.  Cecile  Brunner,  the 
famous  pink  buttonhole  rose  of  the  polyantha  class, 
scarcely  needs  an  introduction,  and  even  the  small- 
est garden  should  contain  one.  Paul  Neyron,  H.  P., 
an  old-time  favorite  of  deep  rose  color,  is  known  as 
our  largest  rose.  Maman  Cqchet,  a  tea,  is  a  very 
free-flowering,  deep  rosy-pink^nodding  because  of  a 
slender  stem.  Souv.  dti  President  Carnot,  H.  T.,  is 
salmon-pink,  shading  to  rose  on  the  outer  petals,  a 
delicate,  soft  shade  of  color.  The  Lyon,  H.  T.,  a 
rosy-flesh,  shaded  with  salmon  and  yellow,  is  a  won- 
der in  color  but  thrives  better  in  the  bay  region  of 
San  Francisco  than  in  the  drier  air  of  Los  Angeles, 
therefore  a  superb  coast  rose  in  the  south.  One  of 
the  later  claimants  for  popular  favor  is  William 
Shean,  H.  T.,  deep  pink  in  color  and  one  of  the  larg- 
est of  roses. 

REDS 

One  of  the  old  China  roses,  Agrippina,  has  re- 
mained a  favorite  through  a  half-century  of  pub- 
licity, a  rather  small  flower  of  deep  crimson;  while 
American  Beauty  relies  on  its  name  for  a  place  in 
southern  gardens;  in  the  San  Francisco  region  and 


138  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

nortward  it  grows  superbly.  Those  wishing  a  tiny 
crimson  rose  on  a  dwarf  bush  should  plant  a  Baby 
Rambler,  Poly.  Edward  Mawley,  H.  T.,  is  a  popular 
velvety  crimson,  still  rare  in  California  gardens. 
Gen.  Jacqueminot,  H.  P.,  is  an  old-time,  annual- 
flowering  favorite  of  bright  crimson,  but  a  superior 
rose  in  all  ways,  of  a  fiery-red  is  Gen.  MacArthur, 
at  present  the  very  best  red  rose.  Hugh  Dickson  and 
J.  B.  Clark  are  two  red  hybrid  perpetuals  that  in  the 
south  are  excellent  for  mid- winter  blooms ;  of  large 
size  and  deep  color.  J.  L.  Mock,  H.  T.,  a  rather  late 
introduction  of  bright  salmony  red,  has  rapidly  at- 
tained a  deserved  popularity.  Lady  Battersea,  H. 
T.,  is  without  a  rival  in  the  shade  known  as  cherry- 
red.  Magna  Charta,  H.  P.,  is  one  of  the  old  favor- 
ites, of  one  long  annual  season  of  bloom,  a  rose  that 
in  its  class  will  doubtless  never  be  surpassed ;  a  deep, 
real  rosy-red.  Papa  Gontier,  a  tea,  is  a  large,  not 
very  double  rose  of  large  size,  superb  as  a  bud  of 
deep  crimson,  opening  as  a  loose  flower  of  deep  rosy- 
pink.  Ulrich  Brunner,  H.  P.,  is  another  of  the  old- 
fashioned  rosy-reds,  with  a  cherry  tint,  that  will 
ever  remain  a  popular  favorite. 

YELLOWS 

The  Duchess  of  Wellington,  H.  T.,  though  new  in 
the  field,  is  already  a  prime  favorite,  for  in  color  it  is 
rare,  a  saffron  yellow,  tinted  with  crimson.  Franz 
Deegen,  H.  T.,  is  a  fine  yellow  tinted  with  orange 
and  has  been  called  the  Yellow  Kaiserin.  George  C. 
Waud,  H.  T.,  is  another  new  rose  of  grand  color, 
orange  tinged  with  scarlet.  Harry  Kirk  is  still 
scarce,  being  recently  introduced,  but  has  become  a 
standard  yellow,  shading  to  deeper  in  the  center, 
Lady  Hillingdon,  a  new  tea,  is  very  fine,  in  color  an 
orange-tinted  yellow.  In  the  old  lists  of  yellow  teas 


IN   CALIFORNIA  139 

Marie  Von  Houtte  was  always  given  and  is  still 
much  in  demand.  Mrs.  Aaron  Ward,  H.  T.,  is  a 
strikingly  handsome  rose  of  an  orange  shade  fading 
to  cream  at  the  tips.  Mrs.  A.  R.  Waddell,  another 
late  hybrid  tea,  has  the  most  attractive  apricot 
shades  of  any  rose  grown.  Perle  des  Jardins  is  an 
old  favorite  tea  of  bright  straw  color  but  is  seldom  a 
pronounced  success  in  the  southern  end  of  the  state. 
The  yellowest  rose  is  a  title  that  has  been  bestowed 
upon  Rayon  d'Or,  a  comparative  newcomer  to  Cali- 
fornia but  one  that  has  well  sustained  its  reputation 
for  color.  Soliel  d'Or,  a  hybrid  briar,  is  a  deep  gold 
shaded  with  pink,  marvelous  in  color  and  showy  in 
the  garden  but  not  a  rose  for  cutting.  Sunburst,  H. 
T.,  is  a  rather  new  rose  having  a  combination  of 
orange-yellow  tinged  with  copper,  shades  now  the 
most  popular. 

CLIMBING  ROSES 
WHITES 

Climbing  Devoniensis,  a  creamy  white  tea  rose, 
tinged  with  blush,  is  more  popular  in  the  central  and 
northern  parts  of  the  state  than  in  the  south.  Climb- 
ing Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  is  but  an  ambitious 
sport  from  the  bush  rose  bearing  the  same  name. 
Climbing  White  Cochet  is  a  new  rose,  tinted  pink 
outside,  that  has  satisfied  all  who  have  grown  it. 
Mme.  Alfred  Carriere  is  an  old-time  noisette  of 
creamy  white,  a  fairly  good  rose  everywhere.  The 
White  Banksia  is  nearly  thornless,  a  rampant  grower 
that  will  stretch  away  up  a  tree  for  sixty  feet,  bear- 
ing clusters  of  tiny,  semi-double  flowers.  All  who 
know  roses  are  familiar  with  the  white  Cherokee, 
without  which  no  garden  is  complete,  its  large  single 
blossoms  being  borne  in  profusion  early  in  spring. 


140  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

PINKS 

Climbing  Belle  Siebrecht  is  but  a  variety  of  the 
bush  sort  aspiring  to  higher  levels;  a  good  rose. 
Climbing  Cecile  Brunner's  story  may  be  told  in  the 
same  words,  as  is  also  true  of  Climbing  Caroline 
Testout.  Dorothy  Perkins  is  a  shell-pink  hybrid  of 
the  wichuriana  class  that  does  not  mildew  in  places 
where  this  fungus  seriously  interferes  with  other 
small-flowering  sorts,  all  of  which  belong  to  the 
polyanthas.  Gainsborough  is  a  satiny-blush  hybrid 
tea  that  climbs  vigorously  and  flowers  fairly  freely 
with  blossoms  of  good  size.  The  Pink  Cherokee,  as 
its  name  implies,  is  but  a  colored  sport  from  the  old- 
time  favored  white.  A  fairly  good  mass  bloomer  of 
rather  weakly  light  pink,  bearing  an  abundance  of 
small  flowers,  is  the  German  Tausenshon,  meaning  in 
English,  thousand  beauties. 

REDS 

A  description  of  Climbing  Papa  Gontier  may  be 
found  under  the  bush  Gontier,  but  Climbing  Souv. 
de  Wootton,  H.  T.,  is  far  superior  to  the  bush  sort,  a 
free-flowering  magenta-crimson.  Crimson  Rambler, 
Poly.,  bears  clusters  of  small  flowers  and  is  a  general 
favorite  where  roses  are  not  attacked  by  mildew. 
Francois  Crousse,  H.  T.,  is  the  deepest  in  color  of  all 
red  climbers  and  a  most  excellent  sort.  In  the  Red 
Cherokee,  or  Ramona,  we  have  the  jewel  of  the 
group.  Reine  Marie  Henriette,  H.  T.,  is  that  deep 
rose  climbing  sort  seen  over  all  of  California ;  a  gen- 
eral favorite.  Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemburg  is  a  half- 
double  hybrid  tea  that  has  been  happily  described  as 
the  climbing  Ragged  Robin. 


IN   CALIFORNIA  141 

YELLOWS 

The  Beauty  of  Glazenwood,  sometimes  called  Gold 
of  Ophir,  or  Fortune's  Double  Yellow,  is  an  annual 
bloomer  that  is  a  marvel  of  color,  and  we  will  ven- 
ture to  describe  the  shades  as  yellow,  copper  and 
rose.  Celine  Forestier  is  a  light  yellow  noisette  with 
real  yellow  in  the  central  petals.  Duchess  de  Auer- 
stadt  is  the  yellowest  of  climbers,  a  tea  rose  of  great 
beauty  popular  forty  years  ago  and  still  in  strong 
demand.  As  for  Marechal  Niel,  the  old  favorite 
lemon-yellow  of  strong  tea-like  fragrance,  who  does 
not  know  it  and  love  it?  It  grows  but  indifferently 
in  dry  atmospheres,  but  an  occasional  plant  does 
well  in  all  parts  of  the  state.  Reve  d'Or  (French  for 
dream  of  gold),  like  the  last,  is  a  noisette,  rather  a 
yellowish  buff  in  color  and  may  be  depended  upon 
to  thrive  in  all  the  Pacific  Coast  states.  William 
Allen  Richardson,  of  the  same  class,  is  yellow  with 
an  orange  center.  The  Yellow  Banksia  is,  except  in 
color,  similar  in  every  respect  to  the  White  Banksia 
and  is  the  more  freely  planted  for  the  color  is  clearer 
and  brighter  than  in  the  white. 

SUNSET  AND  COPPER  TINTS 

During  the  past  few  years  the  range  in  color  of 
roses  has  enjoyed  some  beautiful  additions  in  flowers 
of  sunset  and  copper  tints.  Each  year  finds  new 
and  desirable  sorts  in  the  market,  but  at  present  the 
leaders  are:  Mrs.  A.  R.  Waddell,  Lady  Hillingdon, 
Duchess  of  Wellington,  Juliet,  Sunburst,  and  Mrs. 
Edward  Herriott.  Under  widely  varying  conditions 
these  novelties  would  appear  to  have  become  stand- 
ard sorts. 

ROSE  HISTORY 

The  history  of  the  rose  family  is  an  interesting 
one,  extending  back  a  long  period  of  years,  though 


142  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

the  modern  up-to-date  rose  is  of  comparatively  re- 
cent origin.  As  an  example,  La  France  was  the  first 
of  its  type  and  was  produced  in  1867.  The  rose 
primarily  consisted  of  native  species  less  than  a 
hundred  in  number  and  conceded  by  conservative 
botanists  as  comprising  less  than  half  a  hundred 
species.  But  from  these  hundred  or  less  species 
have  sprung  more  than  a  thousand  horticultural  va- 
rieties. This  large  number  of  garden  varieties  rep- 
resents roses  which  vary  most  remarkably  in  cli- 
matic requirements  so  that  some  may  be  found  for 
every  quarter  of  the  globe. 

It  is  in  the  temperate  zones,  however,  that  roses 
flourish,  and  still  better  in  the  northern  hemisphere. 
It  is  in  the  same  region,  too,  that  most  of  the  native 
species  are  found.  Roses  do  not  like  extreme  heat, 
and  in  the  tropics  few  native  species  are  found  ex- 
cept well  up  in  the  cool  atmosphere  of  the  moun- 
tains. We  have  ample  evidence  that  cool  climates 
are  preferred  by  the  rose  from  the  fact  that  England 
and  the  coast  region  of  Oregon  both  grow  finer  roses 
than  California,  though  we  may  pick  some  every 
month  in  the  year,  whereas  they  cannot.  All  the 
parents  of  the  modern  race  of  roses  were  single, 
though  seldom  are  they  seen  in  commerce  today,  and 
less  in  California  than  elsewhere.  Rosa  rugosa  and 
R.  centifolia  are  the  wild  species  most  commonly 
known,  though  occasionally  an  American  species  is 
cultivated. 


A    GARDEN    GAZING    GLOBE 
Landscapes  in  Miniature 


CHAPTER  XI 

CHRYSANTHEMUM  CULTURE 

No  flower  has  ever  taken  a  firmer  hold  on  the  affec- 
tions of  all  peoples  than  the  chrysanthemum,  for 
whether  one  travels  in  the  Orient,  Europe,  our  own 
country,  or  in  the  out-of-way  corners  of  the  earth, 
the  all-popular  'mum  is  present  in  the  gardens  of 
both  rich  and  poor,  and  no  park  or  public  garden  is 
considered  complete  without  it.  Every  year  brings 
forth  new  forms,  shades  of  color,  habits  of  growth  or 
other  evidences  of  progressive  development,  so  that 
interest  in  them  is  never  allowed  to  wane.  Never 
were  such  satisfactory  sorts  to  be  had  as  at  present, 
and  never  was  enthusiasm  among  the  'mum  fanciers 
at  a  higher  pitch. 

No  other  garden  plant  is  accorded  such  varying 
treatment  as  the  chrysanthemum,  and  our  amateur 
gardeners  grow  them  ranging  in  size  from  the  diam- 
eter of  a  half-dollar  to  that  of  a  large  tea  saucer. 
This  development  is  wholly  a  matter  of  care;  not 
throughout  the  year,  but  for  a  small  portion  thereof. 
If  new  plants  are  started  every  spring  and  given 
ordinary  garden  care,  such  as  all  plants  usually  re- 
ceive, until  within  sixty  days  of  blooming,  and  are 
then  given  special  treatment,  the  amateur  may  pro- 
duce just  as  good  blooms  as  the  professional.  While 
proper  treatment  is  not  difficult,  eternal  vigilance  is 
the  price  of  good  'mums. 

PROPAGATION 

Chrysanthemums  may  be  propagated  either  by  di- 
viding old  clumps  into  small  clumps,  single  shoots,  or 


144  THE  GARDEN  BEAUTIFUL 

by  rooting  the  tips  in  sand.  Nearly  all  amateur 
growers  use  the  old  clumps  year  after  year,  or  at 
most  divide  them  and  replant,  though  no  first-class 
flowers  can  be  produced  from  any  except  plants 
propagated  from  cuttings  rooted  early  in  the  same 
year.  Many  continue  with  the  old  roots  for  the  rea- 
son that  they  do  not  know  how  easily  young  plants 
may  be  propagated.  Clumps  that  have  already  flow- 
ered for  one  or  more  years  will,  if  undisturbed,  send 
up  vigorous  young  shoots,  and  from  these  should  be 
propagated  a  stock  of  plants  to  supply  the  autumn 
crop  of  flowers. 

The  latter  half  of  March  is  the  golden  time  for 
propagation,  though  good  results  may  be  had  from 
cuttings  taken  from  January  to  April.  Get  a  box 
of  six  or  more  inches  in  depth,  bore  a  few  small  holes 
through  the  bottom  to  insure  drainage  and  scatter 
an  inch  or  two  of  gravel,  small  stones,  or  broken  pots 
over  the  bottom  so  that  excess  of  water  may  easily 
percolate  and  escape  through  the  numerous  drainage 
holes.  On  top  of  this  put  four  or  five  inches  of  clean 
sharp  sand  and  water  until  it  is  soaked  through.  The 
young  shoots  of  'mums  are  so  tender  you  may  break 
them  off  if  you  wish,  for  this  method  is  fully  as  good 
as  any,  and  few  but  trained  gardeners  will  cut  them 
properly;  for  unless  this  is  done  with  a  very  sharp 
knife,  frequently  wiped  clean,  the  cuttings  may  be 
so  injured  that  they  will  not  root  ere  they  die.  Pinch 
off  with  thumbnail  and  finger,  or  cut  with  knife  all 
the  leaves  from  each  slip  except  the  tuft  on  the  end 
and  cut  off  the  outer  half  of  these  if  they  are  inclined 
to  droop.  These  slips  or  cuttings  should  be  three  or 
four  inches  long  and  planted  two  inches  deep  in  the 
sand. 

When  you  have  broken  off  your  slips,  if  you  are 
an  amateur,  allow  them  to  stand  in  fresh  water  until 


IN   CALIFORNIA 


145 


next  morning  to  prevent  wilting  during  the  first 
day — the  most  important  of  all  days  in  propagation. 
Use  a  piece  of  lath  or  other  straight  edge  to  lay 
across  the  top  of  the  box  to  mark  lines  for  cuttings. 
Use  an  old  table  knife  or  a  small  thin  paddle  to  make 
a  sharp  cut  or  groove  in  the  sand  along  the  straight 
edge.  Insert  the  cuttings  in  this  cut;  never  force 
them  into  the  sand,  for  this  will  bruise  the  tender 
ends  and  induce  decay.  After  pressing  the  sand 
against  the  cuttings,  make  another  cut  about  two 
inches  from  the  first  and  proceed  as  before. 

Use  boxes  small  enough  so  that  you  may  cover 
them  with  panes  of  glass  (unless  you  have  a  glass 


GLASS-COVERED  PROPAGATING  BOX 

house,)  and  these  must  be  painted  or  shaded  slightly 
to  keep  out  too  much  light  and  heat  for  the  first 
two  weeks.  Never  allow  the  glass  to  fit  down  closely 
upon  the  top  of  box,  but  put  under  the  edge  little 
chips  of  wood  a  quarter  or  half  inch  thick  so  that  a 
free  circulation  of  air  may  be  had  above  the  cuttings. 
TT  ep  the  boxes  in  a  sunny  position  and  never  allow 
the  sand  to  get  dry.  In  from  three  to  four  weeks  all 
1  be  rooted,  though  they  need  not  be  taken  out 
until  a  couple  of  weeks  later.  As  soon  as  they  are 


146  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

well  rooted,  put  them  into  three-inch  pots  and  allow 
them  to  remain  there  as  long  as  possible  without 
becoming  potbound,  or  about  a  month. 

PLANTING  OUT 

Plant  in  rows  in  their  permanent  positions,  about 
eighteen  inches  apart,  leaving  sufficient  space  be- 
tween the  rows  to  give  the  necessary  attention.  Set 
out  in  rich,  mellow,  very  heavy  soil,  but  one  con- 
taining no  fresh  manure.  A  few  should  be  potted 
or  replanted  in  the  box  at  some  distance  apart  so 
they  may  replace  any  in  the  field  that  may  perish. 
If  the  soil  is  sandy  it  needs  a  liberal  supply  of  cow 
manure  which  must  be  quite  rotten  or  it  will  burn 
the  roots  of  the  plants  as  soon  as  the  hot  weather 
commences.  Professional  growers  plant  from  early 
in  May  to  the  last  of  July. 

Do  not  start  young  plants  off  with  a  rush.  Avoid 
stunting  them,  but  just  keep  them  from  "standing 
still."  Too  much  food  and  drink  will  result  in  a 
luxuriant,  top-heavy  growth  that  will  have  to  be  cut 
away  at  least  twice  before  allowed  to  head.  Feeding 
heavily  with  manures  or  commercial  fertilizers  is 
not  in  order  for  months  yet,  or  until  buds  are  select- 
ed. One  more  don't  is  in  order — don't  plant  young 
stock  too  shallowly.  Unlike  carnations,  'mums  are 
seldom  planted  too  deeply.  Stem  hardening  and  wilt- 
ing of  young  plants  are  caused  by  the  roots  being  left 
too  near  the  surface. 

TRAINING  AND  TOPPING 

When  young  plants  are  eight  inches  high  their 
training  should  begin  by  pinching  out  the  terminal 
growth,  or  if  they  are  much  higher  cut  them  off  to 
eight  inches,  and  then  they  should  be  allowed  three 
or  four  branches  from  the  upper  part,  and  these  in 


IN   CALIFORNIA  147 

turn  must  be  pinched  or  cut  until  a  perfect  bush,  well 
balanced,  is  built  up.  Never  do  any  topping  after 
July,  for  this  is  the  last  month  for  restriction  of 
growth.  Of  course  if  plants  are  to  be  trained  to  sin- 
gle stems  for  one  to  five  flowers,  they  should  not  be 
made  to  branch  into  bushes. 

During  July  all  chrysanthemums  should  be  cut 
back.  If  your  plants  are  not  so  treated  you  will 
probably  get  flowers  before  the  hot  weather  is  over 
and  they  will  be  small.  If  cut  back  in  time  and  given 
plenty  of  food  and  drink,  they  will  produce  flowers  in 
October  or  November.  After  the  last  topping  water 
copiously.  It  is  well  to  wash  with  the  sprinkler 
the  dust  from  the  leaves  about  once  a  week;  do  this 
at  the  close  of  the  day.  Adobe  soil  will  not  need  so 
much  watering  as  the  loamy  soil.  Judgment  must 
here  be  used,  though  water  should  not  be  withheld 
at  any  time — too  much  can  scarcely  be  given  if 
drainage  is  good. 

STAKING  AND  TYING 

As  the  plants  grow  up  they  should  be  staked  and 
tied,  one  stalk  or  stem  to  a  stake.  Some  sorts,  with 
some  growers,  often  run  up  to  eight  feet,  but  this  is 
not  general  and  is  most  inexcusable.  Plants  should 
be  tied  with  raffia,  procurable  at  any  seed  store,  or 
with  strips  of  cloth  torn  into  quarter-inch  widths, 
or  with  some  very  large  soft  twine-like  candle  wick- 
ing. 

Split  shakes  make  very  good  stakes;  for  the 
dwarf er  sorts  one  length  is  enough,  and  for  the  taller 
ones  they  may  be  spliced.  It  is  all  a  question, 
though,  of  how  they  are  grown.  In  some  cases  a 
few  longer  and  stronger  stakes  would  be  necessary, 
and  some  use  very  large  ones  and  group  the  stems. 
The  better  method  is  to  stake  every  stalk,  and  then 


148  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

but  very  light,  slender  stakes  are  needed.  For  this 
purpose  the  best  material  is  a  bundle  of  shakes  (split, 
not  sawed.)  These  will  prove  generally  useful  for 
garden  work. 

FERTILIZING 

After  staking  comes  fertilizing,  and  this  must 
begin  as  soon  as  buds  show  and  be  kept  up  until  the 
buds  show  the  color  of  the  flower,  when  it  must 
absolutely  stop,  but  great  quantities  of  water  must 
be  given  daily.  Manure  water,  commercial  fertiliz- 
ers or  whatever  is  given  should  be  used  sparingly  at 
first — once  every  ten  days  or  two  weeks — for  about 
three  times,  and  then  once  each  week  until  the  color- 
ing buds  tell  you  to  stop. 

Usually  you  may  get  plenty  of  good  stable  manure, 
and  nothing  is  better  for  general  feeding.  As  growth 
continues  feed  more  and  more.  If  you  wish  to  get 
unusual  results  feed  a  small  quantity  of  bone  meal 
twice  a  week,  worked  into  the  soil  around  base  of 
plant.  This  feeding  must  stop  when  the  buds  show 
color  or  you  will  "burn"  the  buds,  and  they  will  turn 
black  and  soon  fall  off  the  stem.  When  feeding  stops 
and  color  appears  in  the  bud,  no  further  note  need 
be  taken  of  disbudding,  for  after  this  stage  of  growth 
such  adventitious  growths  can  no  longer  affect  the 
general  crop.  The  plants  require  a  great  deal  of 
water  as  long  as  any  flowers  remain.  Do  not  culti- 
vate the  soil  about  the  plants  later  than  the  first  of 
August,  but  mulch  heavily  to  keep  down  weeds. 

DISBUDDING 

Special  attention  must  be  given  to  disbudding,  and 
all  buds  below  the  top  ones  should  be  rubbed  out  as 
soon  as  they  appear.  This  is  easily  acomplished  as 
soon  as  the  lower  buds  show  by  "rubbing"  them  out 
with  the  finger  tips  as  they  are  very  brittle.  On 


IN   CALIFORNIA  149 

some  sorts  a  goodly  crop  of  attenuated  side  branches 
break  out  well  down  on  the  main  stem,  and  these 
should  be  kept  off,  or  they  will  take  part  of  the  food 
and  thereby  weaken  the  main  crop ;  for  these,  being 
nearer  the  food  supply,  will  rob  all  the  terminals  of 
a  good  share  of  nutriment,  and  those  are  the  ones 
from  which  you  may  expect  the  best  flowers. 

Much  care  must  be  taken  in  top  or  flower  disbud- 
ding. The  stems  to  these  buds  are  very  brittle  and 
break  very  easily.  Hold  the  buds  with  one  hand  and 
take  a  small  stick  like  a  toothpick  and  crowd  off  the 
buds  which  you  wish  to  dispose  of.  You  will  make 
some  mistakes  here.  If  you  should  leave  a  leaf  bud 
instead  of  a  flower  bud  all  is  not  lost.  The  leaf  bud 
will  make  a  branch  which  will  in  a  short  time  present 
a  terminal  cluster  like  the  one  with  which  you  have 
just  dealt;  then  try  again.  This  breaking  out  of 
buds  must  not  be  neglected  for  even  a  few  days,  but 
must  be  attended  to  at  the  proper  time.  Disbudding 
for  the  earliest  sorts  begins  about  August  5th  and 
for  the  very  latest  sorts  about  September  15th. 

CROWN  AND  TERMINAL  BUDS 

Growers  recognize  two  kinds  of  buds,  terminal, 
and  crown.  These  terms  are  easily  understood,  the 
one  large  bud  which  first  comes  at  the  end  of  each 
shoot  is  the  crown  bud;  the  secondary  ones  are  the 
terminal  buds,  of  which  several  surround  the  crown. 
In  the  early  sorts  it  is  best  to  use  the  crown  buds. 

The  crown  buds  will  begin  to  show  in  August, 
though  in  fact  on  some  varieties  they  are  formed 
at  any  time  during  the  summer,  but  if  surrounding 
buds  are  taken  off  before  late  in  August  the  crown 
buds  are  liable  to  produce  imperfect  flowers.  Other 
phases  of  disbudding  may  begin  earlier  if  plants  are 
sufficiently  advanced.  A  crown  bud  may  be  distin- 


150  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

guished  when  young  by  the  buds  directly  below  or 
surounding  it  being  growth  buds.  If  these  growth 
buds  are  not  taken  off  they  will  finally  produce  new 
shoots,  and  the  crown  bud  will  dry  up,  it  being 
really  an  abortive  flower  bud  and  would  never  pro- 
duce a  flower  without  the  aid  of  the  grower.  These 
crown  buds,  being  produced  fully  two  weeks  before 
the  terminal  buds  begin  to  appear,  will  produce 
flowers  two  weeks  earlier  than  if  terminals  had  been 
chosen. 

For  midseason  and  late  varieties  it  is  just  as  well 
to  take  the  terminal  buds.  They  appear  in  a  cluster 
and  are  all  flower  buds.  These  are  the  buds  that  are 
usually  chosen  for  general  purpose  flowers.  It  is 
more  work  to  disbud  these,  as  new  buds  are  contin- 
ually forming,  and  the  plants  have  to  be  gone  over 
several  times.  When  the  crown  bud  is  reserved  no 
buds  are  subsequently  formed  under  it,  and  if  all 
side  shoots  are  brushed  off  they  will  require  but  one 
disbudding.  Then  the  leaves  begin  to  assume  a  dark, 
leathery  appearance,  and  you  may  know  all  the 
strength  of  the  plant  is  being  concentrated  in  the 
flower,  and  it  is  likely  to  be  a  good  one. 

POT  CULTURE 

As  soon  as  the  plants  have  filled  the  three-inch 
pots  with  roots,  shift  again  into  six-inch  pots.  Give 
a  good  drainage  of  broken  crocks  and  two-thirds 
fibrous  soil  and  one-third  good  rotten  manure,  water 
thoroughly  and  spray  occasionally.  From  this  time 
the  plants  need  no  other  shift  till  the  final  one  which 
is  about  the  first  of  June.  Care  should  be  taken  in 
pinching  the  plants,  pinch  either  ten  days  before 
potting  or  ten  days  after — as  it  is  liable  to  check  the 
plants.  This  is  done  only  to  keep  the  plants  from 
maturing  too  soon. 


IN   CALIFORNIA  151 

When  transplanting  to  their  final  pots  give  good 
drainage  and  use  good  soil  and'  well  rotted  manure. 
For  pots  the  best  size  is  ten  or  twelve-inch,  well 
drained,  and  have  the  soil  in  a  good  friable  condition. 
Pot  firmly  by  means  of  a  stick,  leaving  about  two 
inches  from  the  top  of  the  pot  to  the  soil  for  water- 
ing and  mulching.  The  plants  should  then  be  thor- 
oughly watered  and  placed  in  a  good  position  and 
sprayed  overhead  for  a  few  days,  great  care  being 
taken  in  watering  till  they  get  well  established  in  the 
pots. 

SORTS  TO  GROW 

There  are  so  many  named  varieties  of  chrysanthe- 
mums, all  of  which  will  make  grand  blooms  if  well 
cared  for,  that  it  is  impossible  to  give  a  list  of  the 
better  sorts.  Excellence  in  flowers  is  more  a  matter 
of  care  than  of  kind. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM  HISTORY 

Marco  Polo,  the  Venetian  traveler  who  visited 
China  about  the  year  1300,  mentions  having  seen 
the  chrysanthemum  in  that  country,  and  it  is  be- 
lieved to  be  native  there,  but  not  to  Japan.  To  the 
Chinese  belongs  the  credit  of  raising  it  to  the  pres- 
ent large  size  and  to  the  Japanese  of  perfecting  its 
varied  forms  and  colors.  It  reached  Europe  about 
1450  and  England  about  1700. 

A  chrysanthemum  with  small  yellow  flowers  grew 
in  the  Apothecaries'  Botanical  Garden  at  Chelsea  in 
England  in  1764,  but  the  first  of  the  large-flowered 
varieties  was  received  at  the  Royal  Gardens  at  Kew 
and  blossomed  in  1764.  It  is  from  the  latter  that  the 
centennial  introduction  of  the  flower  into  England 
dates.  The  first  English  seedlings  of  the  chrysan- 
themum were  raised  in  1835;  the  first  chrysanthe- 
mum exhibition  in  England  was  held  in  1843  at 


152  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

Norwich,  and  this  was  soon  followed  by  the  organi- 
zation of  the  society  at  Stoke  Newington,  now  known 
as  the  National  Chrysanthemum  Society. 

A  new  era  in  the  history  of  the  plant  opened  in 
England  in  1847  by  the  introduction  of  the  Pompon. 
In  1843,  at  the  close  of  the  war  with  China,  Mr. 
Robert  Fortune  was  sent  out  to  that  country  by  the 
London  Horticultural  Society  to  collect  rare  plants, 
and  one  of  the  curiosities  he  discovered  was  the 
Chusan  daisy.  This  and  another  small  flower  from 
the  same  source  were  the  parents  of  the  tribe  known, 
from  their  resemblance  to  a  rosette,  as  pompon 
chrysanthemums.  Still  later,  in  1860-62,  Mr.  For- 
tune made  more  discoveries  at  the  town  of  Ak-sax- 
saw  in  Japan.  He  describes  this  town  of  Ak-sax-saw 
as  the  most  famous  place  near  Yedo  for  the  variety 
and  beauty  of  its  chrysanthemums,  some  of  which 
were  in  form  and  coloring  quite  distinct  from  any 
then  known  in  Europe.  "If,"  he  said,  "I  can  succeed 
in  introducing  these  varieties  into  Europe,  they  may 
create  as  great  change  among  chrysanthemums  as 
my  Chusan  daisy  did  when  it  became  the  parent  of 
the  present  race  of  Pompons."  They  were  taken  up 
in  England,  proved  successful,  and  from  them  sprang 
those  marvelous  flowers  which  are  the  pride  of  our 
gardens. 


THE    AUSTRALIAN    BUNYA-BUNYA 
Araucaria  Bidwillii 


CHAPTER  XII 
PESTS  AND  DISEASES 

Among  the  worst  garden  pests  we  have  to  deal 
with  are  the  millipedes,  or,  as  some  call  them,  wire- 
worms.  There  seems  to  be  no  way  of  ridding  the 
soil  of  these  pests  except  by  trapping,  a  very  slow 
and  unsatisfactory  method.  Lime  and  wood  ashes 
bother  them  a  little,  but  only  a  little,  and  anything 
strong  enough  to  kill  them  will  also  kill  the  plants. 
They  are  especially  fond  of  the  bulbs  of  callas,  lilies, 
gladioli,  begonias  and  anemones,  and  the  roots  of 
stocks,  snapdragons,  pansies  and  many  other  plants. 
The  easiest  way  to  trap  them  is  by  laying  pieces  of 
boards  on  the  ground,  stepping  on  each  piece  to  see 
that  they  are  firm.  Once  a  day  these  should  be 
taken  up  and  the  millipedes  underneath  killed,  after 
which  replace  the  boards  and  repeat  each  day  until 
no  more  are  found. 

THE  INDUSTRIOUS  ANT 

The  most  persistent  garden  pest  for  a  great  part 
of  the  year,  and  one  that  multiplies  rapidly  unless 
checked,  is  the  industrious  ant.  One  of  our  agricul- 
tural colleges  states  that  greatest  success  in  exter- 
mination of  ants  has  come  through  use  of  an  arsenic 
solution.  For  instant  death  of  invading  ants  a  one 
per  cent  solution  with  enough  syrup  to  sweeten  it  is 
used. 

Prof.  Woodworth  of  Berkeley  states  that  he  has 
found  that  a  solution  of  between  one-eighth  and  one- 
fourth  per  cent  is  best  for  the  reason  that  it  acts 


154  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

more  slowly  and  the  adults  carry  it  to  the  nests  and 
feed  it  to  the  young,  and  the  whole  nest  is  thereby 
killed  through  slow  poisoning.  He  recommends  that 
a  sponge  saturated  with  the  fluid  be  placed  in  a  closed 
jar  with  a  perforated  cover  so  ants  only  may  go  and 
come.  These  jars  may  then  be  safely  left  about  the 
garden  or  carried  into  kitchen  or  pantry. 

A  solution  of  potassium  cyanide  at  the  rate  of  one 
ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water,  when  poured  into  a  small 
pit  at  the  exit  of  a  burrow,  destroys  ants  to  a  depth 
of  one  and  a  half  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  soil. 
This  solution  can  be  prepared  at  a  cost  of  from  one 
and  one-half  to  two  cents  per  gallon.  It  appears, 
however,  to  be  injurious  to  plant  life. 

A  very  effective,  but  more  expensive  method,  and 
one  that  has  been  used  with  great  success  for  a  num- 
ber of  years,  is  to  pour  one  or  more  teaspoons  of 
bisulphide  of  carbon  into  the  opening  of  each  nest, 
preferably  while  the  soil  is  wet,  closing  the  holes 
promptly  afterward  with  the  foot.  This  insecticide 
has  the  advantage  of  being  more  penetrating  than 
the  others  mentioned;  it  is  heavier  than  air  and 
descends  as  a  gas  into  all  the  subterranean  tunnels 
of  the  ants,  destroying  them  as  well  as  all  other  liv- 
ing creatures  which  may  be  present.  When  liberally 
applied  this  chemical  will  destroy  entire  colonies  of 
ants. 

A  very  good  poison  for  ants  in  the  greenhouse 
is  a  mixture  of  Paris  green  and  sugar,  adding  just 
enough  of  the  poison  to  white  granulated  sugar  to 
turn  it  a  light  green  color.  This  should  be  dusted 
lightly  among  the  pots  on  and  under  the  benches. 
Be  careful  not  to  put  any  in  the  pots  or  on  a  bench 
containing  soil,  as  the  Paris  green  is  liable  to  damage 
the  plants. 


IN   CALIFORNIA  155 

ANTS  AND  PLANT  LICE 

Plant  lice  are  familiar  objects  to  all.  The  general 
farmer  and  the  casual  observer  of  these  creatures 
on  cabbage  and  other  vegetable  crops  simply  recog- 
nizes them  as  lice,  but  to  the  florist  they  are  better 
known  under  the  names  of  green  fly  and  aphis.  An 
interesting  fact  in  regard  to  them  is  that  most  com- 
mon species  exude  from  two  tubes  near  the  ends  of 
the  abdominal  segments  a  transparent  fluid  having  a 
sweetish  taste.  It  is  frequently  excreted  in  great 
quantity,  and  this  is  the  secret  of  the  attraction  of 
ants  to  these  creatures.  The  liquid  is  known  as 
honey-dew,  and  it  attracts,  besides  ants,  wasps,  bees, 
flies  and  some  other  insects. 

PLANT  LICE,  GREEN  FLY,  OR  APHIS 

Fifty-eight  persons  competed  for  a  prize  offered  at 
Frankfort,  Germany,  for  the  best  method  of  de- 
stroying plant  lice.  The  winner's  preparation  is  as 
follows :  Quassia  wood,  two  and  one-half  pounds,  to 
be  soaked  overnight  in  ten  quarts  of  water  and  well 
boiled,  then  strained  through  a  cloth  and  placed,  with 
100  quarts  of  water,  in  a  petroleum  barrel  with  five 
pounds  of  soft  soap ;  to  be  used  as  a  spray. 

In  wet  or  cool  weather  they  are  hard  to  extermi- 
nate, but  during  hot  days  the  fumes  of  both  sulphur 
and  of  tobacco  dust  will  sufficiently  keep  the  pests  in 
check.  Sprinkle  both  over  the  damp  foliage,  spar- 
ingly but  evenly,  in  the  morning  of  what  promises  to 
be  a  hot  day.  The  sulphur  fumes  also  destroy  the 
fungus  known  as  mildew. 

One  way  to  get  rid  of  plant  lice  is  to  use  tobacco 
water  made  by  pouring  boiling  water  over  tobacco 
stems,  or  by  boiling  the  stems.  After  cooling  pour 
off  the  liquid  and  add  more  water.  This  tobacco  tea 


156  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

should  be  used  as  soon  after  making  as  possible  and 
is  of  little  value  if  allowed  to  stand  two  or  three 
days,  for  it  will  start  to  ferment  and  it  then  loses  its 
strength.  The  most  convenient  form  to  use  is  the 
nicotine  extract.  A  pint  of  the  nicotine  is  extracted 
from  150  pounds  of  tobacco.  It  comes  in  pint  bottles 
and  is  sold  to  nurserymen  for  about  $1.50  a  bottle. 
Use  one  tablespoon  of  the  nicotine  to  five  gallons  of 
water.  If  you  use  the  tea  or  nicotine  it  should  be 
sprayed  on  the  plants  each  morning  for  three  days, 
and  all  the  aphis  will  be  exterminated. 

WORMS  IN  FLOWER  POTS 

Wireworms  or  millipedes  often  bother  pot  plants, 
and  occasionally  other  worms  are  present.  The  most 
effective  way  to  drive  out  these  pests  is  to  use  lime 
water.  Dissolve  lime  in  water,  one  pound  of  lime  to 
about  ten  gallons  of  water,  though  it  does  not  matter 
how  much  you  use,  as  only  a  certain  amount  will  be 
held  in  solution.  Allow  it  to  settle  until  water  is 
clear  and  then  water  the  plants  with  it.  Bottles  of 
this,  tightly  corked,  may  be  kept  on  hand,  though 
worms  in  potting  soil  are  not  a  very  common  trouble. 
The  settled  lime  should  be  put  in  the  garden  as  it 
will  benefit  both  soil  and  plants. 

CUTWORMS,  Sow  BUGS,  ETC. 

Thoroughly  mix  one  peck,  eight  quarts  or  two  gal- 
lons, of  wheat  bran  with  one  tablespoon  of  Paris 
green,  then  add  a  quart  of  strong  molasses.  Rub  all 
the  ingredients  together  thoroughly  until  the  mass 
becomes  of  the  same  consistency  throughout  and 
crumbles  easily.  Scatter  lightly  among  the  plants 
where  the  cutworms  are  feeding,  and  you  will  have 
no  further  trouble  there.  This  poison  also  destrops 


IN   CALIFORNIA  157 

snails,  sow  bugs,  etc. ;  it  never  fails  and  is  the  sim- 
plest treatment  for  this  class  of  pests. 

One  competent  authority  states  that  the  following 
formula  for  a  poisoned  bran  is  the  most  effective  he 
has  used :  Take  of  bran  eight  pounds,  Paris  green 
four  ounces,  common  salt  two  ounces,  syrup  or  mo- 
lasses one  pint.  Add  sufficient  water  to  make  a 
crumbly  or  dryish  mash.  Avoid  placing  it  where 
chickens  or  domestic  animals  will  be  poisoned.  It 
may  be  thinly  scattered  among  garden  plants  that 
are  attacked. 

Probably  the  most  economically  applied  spray 
consists  of  Paris  green  mixed  in  the  following  pro- 
portions : 

Paris  green,  pure,  or  to  contain  at  least  fifty  per 
cent  arsenious  acid,  two  ounces;  fresh  lime,  one 
pound;  water,  25  gallons. 

Use  no  ammonia  or  soap.  Make  the  Paris  green 
into  a  paste  before  placing  it  in  a  spray  tank  and 
keep  constantly  stirred  while  spraying.  To  make 
the  Paris  green  more  insoluble,  and  thereby  prevent 
injury  to  the  leaves,  dissolve  six  pounds  of  fresh 
lime  in  water  and  when  the  lime  has  settled  add 
the  water  to  the  solution  and  keep  it  constantly 
stirred. 

SCALE  INSECTS,  RED  SPIDER,  ETC. 

One  pound  of  Gold  Dust  dissolved  in  five  gallons 
of  water  works  wonders  in  cleaning  trees  and  plants 
of  insect  life  and  the  smut  resultant  from  their  excre- 
tions. This  formula  is  only  for  such  things  as  have 
hard  foliage,  like  citrus  trees.  A  gallon  or  two  more 
water  added  to  every  pound  of  "dust'  will  permit  its 
use  on  soft  plants. 

Kerosene  emulsion  is  also  good  where  an  insecti- 
cide is  needed.  Dissolve  one  pound  of  soft  soap  in 


158  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

a  gallon  of  boiling  water,  keeping  it  well  agitated 
with  a  syringe  or  pump  until  the  soap  is  quite  melted. 
Then  while  still  boiling,  or  nearly  so,  add  one  pint 
of  kerosene  and  continue  to  agitate  the  mixture  for 
about  five  minutes,  which  will  thoroughly  mix  the 
soap  and  oil.  Dilute  with  another  two  gallons  of 
water  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  The  mixture  may  be 
still  weaker  and  used  frequently  if  preferred.  It 
should  always  be  carefully  sprayed,  using  a  very 
fine  nozzle,  and  applied  particularly  to  the  under 
sides  of  the  leaves. 

RATS/   RATS/ 

One  wholesale  florist  says :  "Take  slaked  lime  and 
alum  and  put  the  mixture  under  or  on  benches, 
around  poultry  yards  or  greenhouses,  and  you  will 
get  rid  of  all  rats.  I  had  them  so  bad  that  they  de- 
stroyed my  geraniums  and  carnations.  The  rat  is 
very  fond  of  water,  and  when  it  goes  along  on  this 
preparation  it  gets  its  claws  full,  rubs  its  nose,  then 
runs  for  water ;  and  as  soon  as  it  gets  water  the  ani- 
mal is  destroyed. 

"For  ants  and  slugs  the  mixture  named  cannot  be 
beaten  by  anything  on  the  market.  I  have  nine 
greenhouses  and  have  not  a  slug  or  an  ant  in  the 
place." 

OAK  CATERPILLARS 

The  oak  trees  in  some  counties  of  the  state  are 
defoliated  by  the  caterpillar  of  the  oak  moth,  Phry- 
ganidia  Californica,  and  people  who  value  these 
beautiful  landmarks  are  much  concerned  about  it. 
Frequently  whole  districts  are  to  be  seen  in  which 
every  tree  is  stripped  of  its  leaves.  The  remedy 
against  the  worm,  and  one  that  should  be  frequently 
applied,  is  a  Paris  green  spray,  one  pound  to  200  gal- 


IN  CALIFORNIA  159 

Ions  of  water.    If  this  is  freely  used  the  worms  will 
soon  disappear. 

GOPHERS  AND  SQUIRRELS 

Some  prefer  to  use  bisulphide  of  carbon  to  kill 
gophers  and  squirrels.  It  must  be  used  when  the 
ground  is  damp,  or  the  fumes  will  not  be  confined 
enough  to  destroy  the  rodents.  After  turning  about 
a  gill  of  the  liquid  in  the  hole  quickly  cover  with  soil 
and  press  down  to  confine  the  poisonous  vapors. 
Poison,  a  good  cat  or  trap,  will  prove  equally  effect- 
ive in  killing  the  gophers. 

A  good  formula  for  poisoning  squirrels  is:  One 
ounce  strychnine,  one  ounce  cyanide  of  potassium, 
one-half  gallon  molasses,  and  enough  wheat  to  take 
up  the  liquid.  It  takes  about  fifty  pounds.  Enough 
water  is  added  to  moisten  it.  It  is  of  little  use  to  put 
out  poison  when  grass  and  weeds  are  near  by;  an- 
other reason  for  cleaning  the  roadways  of  disfiguring 
weeds.  The  strychnine  should  be  dissolved  in  vine- 
gar, and  the  cyanide  in  warm  water,  before  they  are 
mixed  with  the  molasses  and  the  wheat. 

MILDEW  ON  ROSES,  ETC. 

Mildew  is  a  fungus  plant  which  is  parasitic  on  the 
rose  and  other  plants  and  appears  as  a  gray,  pow- 
dery substance  on  the  young  growth,  attacking  both 
foliage  and  stem.  It  can  be  checked  by  the  use  of  sul- 
phur as  it  is  used  to  stop  mildew  on  grape  vines.  Be 
sure  you  treat  your  plants  generously  with  manure 
and  water  to  keep  them  in  good  health. 

On  the  first  appearance  of  the  disease  it  is  advis- 
able to  dust  the  foliage  with  sulphur.  This  is  best 
done  in  the  evening  when  there  is  no  wind  to  blow 
it  off,  or  in  early  morning  after  spraying  with  water. 
At  this  stage  some  spray  with  a  light  solution  of  sul- 


160  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

phide  of  potassium,  but  if  a  spray  is  found  necessary 
it  will  be  better  to  use  the  Bordeaux  mixture,  which 
for  our  purpose  should  be  made  as  follows :  Copper 
sulphate,  five  pounds ;  lime,  five  pounds ;  water,  forty 
gallons.  A  very  weak  solution  of  soft  soap  used  as  a 
spray  is  also  beneficial. 

We  give  below  the  two  latest  approved  sprays,  the 
first  recipe  comes  from  England  and  is  vouched  for 
by  William  Payne,  F.  L.  S.,  Honorable  Secretary  of 
the  National  Rose  Society,  and  a  famous  rosarian; 
the  second  from  a  skillful  rose  grower  of  the 
United  States.  Both  are  good. 

"Boil  two  pounds  of  soft  soap  in  two  gallons  of 
water;  while  still  boiling  and  immediately  after  it 
has  been  removed  from  the  fire  add  half  a  pint  of 
paraffine  oil  and  a  quarter  pound  of  sulphur.  When 
using  add  half  a  pint  of  this  solution  to  a  gallon  of 
water,  soft  water  is  best,  and  apply  as  a  spray." 

"Shave  up  a  bar  of  ivory  soap,  or  any  kind  which 
contains  no  free  alkali,  and  dissolve  in  a  pail  of  boil- 
ing water.  When  dissolved,  dilute  with  five  pails 
of  cold  water.  This  does  not  need  washing  off  again 
as  the  thin  coating  is  a  preventive  as  well  as  a  cura- 
tive. It  will  also  kill  all  kinds  of  aphids,  or  green 
fly,  as  well  as  red  spider  on  violets." 


CHILEAN   WINE   OR    HONEY   PALM 
Jubeae   spectabilis 


CHAPTER  XIII 
THE  GARDEN  CALENDAR 

JANUARY 

The  planting  season  for  all  but  tender  growths  is 
at  hand  and  new  gardening  operations  should  be 
under  full  sway.  Do  not  send  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  for  either  seeds  or  plants.  None  are  so 
well  adapted  to  local  conditions  as  home-grown  stock, 
and  our  seeds  are  famous  the  world  over.  Conditions 
are  so  entirely  different  with  us  that  vegetation  cul- 
tivated under  other  methods  and  environment  is  not 
so  well  suited  to  our  gardens  as  that  grown  here. 
There  is  also  another  good  business  reason  for 
patronizing  local  dealers ;  they  are  get-at-able  in  case 
you  receive  unsatisfactory  stock. 

GENERAL  WORK 

Now  is  the  time  to  attend  to  manuring  and  spad- 
ing vacant  beds  and  borders.  After  spading  leave 
the  ground  in  a  rough  state;  don't  rake  it  down,  as 
the  sun  and  air  will  do  more  good  and  it  will  leave 
the  ground  in  a  more  friable  condition  than  if  raked 
smooth.  Don't  be  afraid  to  enrich  abundantly  as 
the  ground  will  be  in  better  condition  for  spring 
planting. 

Get  rid  of  all  rubbish,  dead  weeds,  etc.,  so  that 
when  the  spring  crop  of  garden  pests  hatches  it 
will  find  less  shelter.  Such  a  cleaning  up  removes 
many  insects  in  a  dormant  state,  or  their  eggs,  and 
very  often  both  insects  and  eggs.  This  garden  rub- 
bish should  always  be  burned  or  deeply  composted. 


162  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

When  taken  from  a  garden  full  of  pests  it  should  be 
carried,  not  dragged,  over  the  ground,  thereby  avoid- 
ing scattering  insects  and  diseases. 

SEED   SOWING 

Do  not  fail  to  plant  a  few  native  wild  flowers.  Our 
California  seeds,  plants,  and  bulbs  are  in  heavy  de- 
mand the  world  over,  more  so  in  every  European 
country  than  is  the  case  here  at  home.  We  have  a 
long  list  of  beauties  that  thrive  splendidly  in  the  gar- 
den and  range  through  all  shades  and  colors  in  the 
flowers. 

For  summer  and  fall  flowers  an  early  sowing  of 
antirrhinum,  arctotis,  aster,  calliopsis,  celosia,  cen- 
taurea,  chrysanthemum,  dianthus,  Phlox  Drum- 
mondi,  summer  flowering  stocks,  salvia,  etc.,  may 
be  made  now.  The  seedsman  can  give  you  an  idea  of 
what  will  be  the  better  seeds  to  sow  for  seasons 
vary  according  to  amount,  time  of  rainfall,  etc., 
and  no  hard  and  fast  rule  may  be  laid  down.  The 
more  tender  annuals  would  be  risky  at  present  if  you 
have  no  greenhouse  or  protection  for  them.  Hardy 
varieties  may  be  sown  at  any  time. 

No  better  time  could  be  found  than  January  for 
the  sowing  of  sweet  peas  for  spring  blossoms.  The 
plants  like  to  grow  in  the  cool  earth,  and  if  sown 
now  the  vines  will  be  shading  the  roots  before  the 
soil  gets  overheated.  It  matters  little  how  warm  the 
atmosphere  is  if  the  soil  below  is  cool  and  moist,  and 
this  it  must  be  if  success  comes.  The  modern  sweet 
pea  is  a  wonderful  improvement  over  the  old  types 
and  may  be  obtained  in  nearly  every  shade  from 
white  to  black.  Of  late  the  orchid-flowered  Spencer 
strain  is  much  in  demand  and  far  more  beautiful 
than  the  plain,  unruffled  flowers. 


IN   CALIFORNIA  163 

DIVIDING  ROOTS  AND  TUBERS 

If  you  are  going  to  propagate  a  stock  of  chrysan- 
themums for  the  present  year,  either  by  dividing 
them  to  single  shoots  or  by  rooting  the  tips  in  sand, 
you  should  find  proper  material  on  the  old  clumps; 
water  and  cultivate  so  that  you  may  get  cuttings  in 
thirty  or  forty  days.  A  box  of  clean,  sharp  sand  in  a 
shaded  position  will  give  you  good  results  if  not  neg- 
lected. 

Where  large  beds  and  borders  of  canna,  cyperus, 
papyrus  and  elephant  ear  have  not  been  disturbed 
for  three  or  more  years,  it  will  be  found  advisable 
to  dig  up  the  cannas  and  caladiums  and  store  them 
away  until  March  or  April,  and  the  large  clumps  of 
papyrus  and  cyperus  can  be  divided  and  replanted  in 
the  border  when  it  is  spaded  up,  or  divided  in  spring. 
These  can  stand  any  amount  of  fertilizer.  Dig  up 
the  beds  as  deeply  as  possible  and  turn  under  several 
inches  of  well-rotted  manure ;  leave  the  beds  rough, 
and  later  in  planting  time  they  will  be  in  a  good 
friable  condition  to  replant. 

BULBS 

Gladiolus  may  be  planted  now,  using  rich  ground, 
and  plant  them  at  intervals  of  two  or  three  weeks 
for  the  next  four  months,  to  get  a  succession  of 
blooms  throughout  the  summer.  Also  plant  calla, 
dahlia  and  Easter  lily. 

Those  who  have  not  planted  bulbs  of  anemone, 
hyacinth,  ixia,  lily,  narcissus,  ranunculus,  sparaxis 
and  tulip  should  put  them  in  the  ground  at  once,  if 
any  of  these  flowers  are  desired.  If  a  handful  of 
sharp  sand  is  placed  in  the  hole  for  each  bulb  to  set 
on,  it  will  insure  success  in  many  cases  where  failure 
would  otherwise  result.  Soak  bulbs  of  anemone  and 
ranunculus  a  couple  of  hours  before  planting. 


164  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

TREES,  SHRUBS  AND  HERBS 

Roses  are  dormant  and  if  planted  now  will  at  once 
start  into  growth  and  produce  a  bountiful  crop  of 
blooms  early  in  the  season. 

This  is  a  golden  time  for  the  planting  of  all  de- 
ciduous trees  and  shrubs,  also  hardy  evergreens ;  but 
citrus  trees  and  the  more  tender  sorts,  both  fruiting 
and  ornamental,  are  better  left  until  February  or 
March.  The  latter  class  will  start  only  when  the  soil 
gets  warm  in  spring  from  the  increasing  heat  of  the 
sun;  in  the  meantime  they  remain  dormant. 

Roses  may  be  pruned  and  manure  spaded  in  about 
them  any  time  during  the  month ;  in  March  they  will 
begin  to  sprout  for  the  spring  crop  of  blooms.  Do 
not  prune  such  climbers  at  the  present  time  as 
Cherokee,  Banksia,  Beauty  of  Glazenwood,  Gold  of 
Ophir,  etc.,  as  their  bloom  is  produced  all  along  the 
branches.  The  best  time  to  prune  these  is  after  their 
spring  crop  of  flowers ;  then  they  will  have  time  dur- 
ing summer  to  grow  long  branches  for  next  season's 
flowers. 

Pansy  plants  are  ready  to  plant  out,  and  care 
should  be  taken  in  preparing  the  ground.  Many 
people  complain  they  bought  the  best  seeds  or  the 
finest  plants,  and  they  are  no  better,  in  flowers,  than 
common  ones.  The  cause  of  such  failures  is  poor  soil 
or  lack  of  preparation.  To  prepare  the  ground  for 
pansies:  Choose  your  location,  which  should  be 
sunny  at  least  two-thirds  of  the  day ;  manure  it  well ; 
get  some  charcoal,  pulverize  it  and  spade  it  in  with 
the  manure.  After  spading  sow  some  soot  on  top 
of  the  ground  and  rake  it  in  thoroughly.  The  char- 
coal and  soot  are  to  sweeten  the  soil,  the  soot  also 
keeps  away  snails  and  other  injurious  insects; 
together  they  give  a  rich  dark  color  to  the  plants  and 


IN   CALIFORNIA  165 

also  serve  to  bring  out  richness  of  color  in  the 
flowers. 

Other  seasonable  flowering  plants  which  may  be 
planted  now,  include  the  antirrhinum,  calendula, 
carnation,  delphinium,  dianthus,  hollyhock,  pansy, 
pelargonium  or  Lady  Washington  geranium  (if  you 
have  a  hot  south  front  where  other  plants  burn 
up  during  summer  try  a  few),  pentstemon,  phlox, 
stock,  Shasta  daisy,  verbena  (all  colors  make  a 
splendid  display  in  April  if  planted  now) ,  and  wall- 
flower. 

A  TIMELY  WARNING 

Do  not  be  in  a  hurry  to  fertilize  your  lawn;  the 
present  cold  weather  is  good  for  the  grass,  it  gives  it 
a  resting  period.  The  disadvantage  of  fertilizing  too 
early  is  that  it  will  force  a  new  growth  at  the  time 
we  are  getting  our  coldest  weather,  and  the  conse- 
quence is  the  tender  young  grass  gets  nipped  by  the 
frost  when  "in  the  milk."  When  it  should  look  nice 
in  the  early  spring  it  stops  growing  and  looks  brown. 
It  is  forced  from  its  natural  resting  time,  the  tender 
growth  is  frozen,  and  it  takes  its  rest  toward  spring 
when  the  fertilizer  has  exhausted  its  forcing  quali- 
ties or  has  been  washed  away.  Grass  should  rest 
during  the  coldest  weather.  February  and  March  or 
even  April  will  be  found  the  best  months  to  manure 
the  lawns,  and  from  that  time  there  will  be  a  luxu- 
riant growth  until  the  cold  weather  of  autumn  comes 
again. 

FEBRUARY 

The  present  should  be  the  season  of  greatest  activ- 
ity in  gardening.  Bear  in  mind  spring  is  fully  on  us 
and  perfection  of  bloom  next  summer  demands  early 
attention  to  the  garden  this  month.  Plants  of  all 
kinds  are  pushing  forth  new  growths,  swelling  buds 


166  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

on  deciduous  trees  denote  the  rising  sap,  all  nature 
feels  the  pulse  of  spring. 

GENERAL  WORK 

Nearly  all  plants  should  be  pruned  and  fertilized 
at  this  time,  soil  stirred,  rubbish  cleared  away  and 
plants  and  seeds  put  in  the  ground.  A  month  or  so 
later  the  value  of  such  work  is  much  less  than  if  done 
at  present.  The  only  plants  which  should  not  be  set 
out  until  later  are  those  of  a  strictly  tropical  nature, 
most  of  which  are  foliage  plants  like  cyperus,  canna, 
elephant's  ear,  etc.  Another  tropical  root  or  bulb 
which  should  wait  for  a  month  is  the  dahlia.  Fer- 
tilize all  growing  plants,  but  not  dormant  ones. 

After  a  rain  time  should  elapse  sufficient  to  dry 
the  soil  into  a  workable  condition,  for  soil  worked 
when  unfit  becomes  still  more  unfit  for  planting.  In 
the  meantime,  if  soaking  rain  has  not  come,  put  your 
soil  in  a  condition  to  receive  all  that  falls.  There 
is  always  considerable  doubt  as  to  our  rainfall,  in 
time  and  quantity,  but  it  is  far  better  for  plant  life 
than  the  water  pipe  supply,  so  that  we  should  aim 
both  to  catch  and  to  hold  it.  For  this  purpose  leave 
your  soil  in  the  rough,  well  spaded  up,  until  you  need 
to  use  it.  After  each  rain,  for  fear  no  more  will 
come,  hoe  and  rake  the  surface  as  deeply  as  you  may 
easily  go,  to  conserve  what  has  already  fallen. 

SEED  SOWING 

Begonias  of  the  tuberous  rooted  section  may  be 
grown  from  the  seeds  indoors,  and  it  is  also  time  to 
plant  seeds  of  torrenias  which  are  of  a  like  delicate 
nature  and  suitable  for  the  same  positions,  whole 
or  partial  shade. 

Sow  seeds  for  fall  and  summer  flowers:  Antir- 
rhinum, aster,  calliopsis,  celosia,  chrysanthemum, 


IN   CALIFORNIA  167 

salvia,  stock,  sweet  pea,  sweet  William ;  your  seeds- 
man will  tell  you  of  the  kinds  that  are  timely. 
Hardy  annuals  may  of  course  be  sown  at  any  time. 

CUTTINGS  AND  DIVISIONS 

Carnation  cuttings  may  be  rooted  in  precisely  the 
same  manner  prescribed  in  another  chapter  for 
chrysanthemums.  Hardwood  cuttings  of  deciduous 
shrubs  such  as  crepe  myrtle,  deutzia,  hydrangea, 
lemon  verbena,  lilac  and  weigelia  should  now  be 
made  and  put  in  sand  or  soil. 

With  the  first  warm  weather  after  a  heavy  rain  it 
will  do  to  divide  herbaceous  perennials  like  golden- 
rod,  golden  glow,  Shasta  daisy,  and  even  chrysan- 
themum. The  latter  are  best  if  propagated  each 
season  by  rooting  tips  in  a  box  of  sand.  It  is  rather 
early,  although  the  first  of  March  should  see  them 
started.  By  planting  the  cuttings  in  sand,  keeping 
moist  but  not  too  wet,  you  can  easily  perpetuate  a 
stock  of  your  favorite  'mums. 

BULBS 

Finish  planting  lily,  anemone  and  ranunculus. 
Plant  agapanthus,  amaryllis,  canna,  calla,  caladium, 
elephant's  ear,  dahlia,  iris,  gladiolus,  tuberose  and  all 
that  class  of  bulbs,  corms  and  roots.  Do  not  plant  all 
gladioli  at  once,  though  earlier  plantings  give  the 
better  flowers. 

Tuberous  begonias  may  be  started  in  pots  during 
this  month  and  planted  out  in  April.  A  soil  of  one- 
third  each  of  sand,  leaf  mold,  and  good  garden  loam 
is  ideal  for  this  or  any  other  class  of  begonias,  and 
this  should  always  be  the  composition  for  pot  cul- 
ture. Remember  in  placing  the  dormant  bulb  on 
soil  that  the  hollow  side  should  be  up.  Set  pots  away 
in  cool  shady  spot  until  tops  show  through  soil,  and 


168  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

then  gradually  inure  to  sun.  Every  year  marks  an 
improvement  in  this  class  of  begonia,  and  no  garden 
is  complete  without  them.  They  range  from  white 
to  deep  orange  and  crimson,  both  single  and  double, 
also  plain  and  fringed. 

GENERAL  PLANTING 

During  February  you  may  plant  bare  root,  dor- 
mant roses  if  a  good  rain  has  fallen.  It  is  also  timely 
to  prune  and  fertilize  those  now  in  the  garden.  De- 
ciduous trees  and  shrubs  should  be  planted  at  once, 
and  all  hardy  seeds  and  plants  should  be  rushed  into 
the  soil  for  growing  weather  is  with  us  and  only 
those  plants  that  get  a  good  start  in  spring  come  to 
greatest  perfection.  Carnation,  petunia,  pansy, 
stock,  verbena,  and  salvia  can  be  transplanted  from 
seed  boxes  to  the  open  beds. 

February  is  a  good  month  for  planting  golden 
glow,  or  summer  chrysanthemum  (a  rudbeckia). 
Few  of  the  seedsmen  or  nurserymen  handling  orna- 
mentals catalogue  it,  and  few  people  seem  to  know 
it,  though  it  is  by  no  means  a  novelty.  It  is  a  large, 
showy  plant  attaining  in  good  soil  a  height  of  six  or 
eight  feet  the  same  season  planted;  flowers  three 
and  one-half  inches  in  diameter,  double,  well  formed, 
deep  golden  color,  and  borne  on  long  stems  which 
render  them  suitable  for  cutting.  They  are  magnifi- 
cent for  indoor  decoration.  Plants  bloom  profusely 
from  June  to  October. 

TRANSPLANTING  EVERGREENS 

The  best  time  to  transplant  an  evergreen  is  when 
the  growth  is  about  to  start.  This  is  usually  in  the 
spring  when  moisture  and  heat  are  adequate  to  stim- 
ulate new  growth.  The  best  season  is  from  February 
to  May,  according  to  the  region  in  which  you  are 


IN   CALIFORNIA  169 

working.  Heat  is  then  sufficient  and  not  excessive, 
and  moisture  is  usually  plentiful.  Everything  feels 
like  growing  under  these  conditions  and  the  tree 
quickly  establishes  itself. 

The  deciduous  tree  can  safely  be  transplanted  dur- 
ing the  whole  of  its  dormant  period  unless  the  ground 
is  cold  and  water  soaked;  the  evergreen  does  best 
near  the  close  of  its  period  of  dormancy.  The  tree 
.does  not  need  manure  in  the  hole ;  if  you  wish  to  push 
it,  use  manure  on  top  when  you  are  sure  that  it  has 
reestablished  itself.  All  evergreens  should  be  taken 
up  with  a  ball  of  dirt  if  possible.  It  is  a  great  deal 
better  to  get  a  part  of  the  roots  in  natural  position 
and  condition  than  to  get  all  the  roots  with  their 
natural  connections  with  the  soil  destroyed. 

LAWN  WORK 

February  is  usually  a  good  month  for  lawn  fertil- 
ization, though  in  a  backward  season  March  is  pre- 
ferable. The  lawn  may  be  covered  with  well  rotted 
manure.  Wet  down  well  to  wash  manure  into  soil  as 
much  as  possible.  Rake  over  every  day  or  two  so  the 
grass  roots  will  not  be  smothered  and  killed  out. 
After  a  week  or  two  of  this  treatment,  lightly  rake 
off  the  manure  which  may  remain  on  top. 

See  that  natural  fertilizers,  if  used,  are  well  rotted 
for  they  may  be  full  of  unsprouted  seeds  of  Bermuda 
grass,  dandelion  and  other  pernicious  weeds  and 
bring  to  your  lawn  more  harm  than  good.  A  safer 
plan,  unless  absolutely  sure  of  your  material,  is  to 
buy  a  commercial  lawn  fertilizer,  of  which  there  are 
numerous  good  brands  in  the  market. 

Bone  meal  is  fine  for  a  lawn.  True  up  the  edges 
and  seed  with  blue  grass  or  clover  where  the  soil  is 
bare  or  where  weeds  have  choked  out  the  grass.  If 
Bermuda  grass  is  crowding  into  the  lawn  sow  a  lib- 


170  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

eral  supply  of  white  clover  as  advised  in  the  chapter 
on  lawns. 

MARCH 

The  month  of  March  should  be  a  very  active  one 
so  far  as  general  garden  work  is  concerned,  and 
planting,  pruning  and  propagation  should  be  the 
active  program,  followed  by  irrigation,  cultivation 
and  fertilization. 

GENERAL  WORK 

Ground  should  be  spaded  up  and  aired  for  two  or 
three  weeks  for  the  tropical  perennials.  After  thor- 
ough exposure  for  a  time  scatter  some  well  rotted 
manure  over  the  surface,  roughly  break  up  the  lumps 
and  smooth  it  somewhat  and  respade  to  mix  the  fer- 
tilizer thoroughly  into  the  soil.  Not  until  April  will 
the  ground  be  warm  enough  to  induce  a  quick,  vigor- 
ous growth  of  these  plants. 

Don't  continually  stir  the  soil  around  shallow 
rooted  plants.  Get  some  well  rotted  manure  and 
mulch  the  surface  of  your  beds,  being  careful  not  to 
cover  the  crown  of  the  plants.  You  will  lighten  your 
work  and  get  infinitely  better  results.  A  mulch 
keeps  the  soil  cool  and  moist;  it  checks  evaporation 
and  prevents  the  soil  from  cracking  and  drying  out. 
It  eliminates  a  lot  of  useless  labor  and  will  insure 
you  a  fine  crop  of  perfect  blooms. 

SEED  SOWING 

In  the  sowing  of  all  seeds  mentioned  care  must  be 
exercised  to  keep  them  constantly  moist  and  to  sow 
them  in  a  rather  light  compost;  this  is  particularly 
applicable  to  asters,  which  if  allowed  to  become  dry 
at  any  time  during  the  germinating  period  will  sure- 
ly perish. 


IN   CALIFORNIA  171 

Be  careful  not  to  cover  seeds  too  deeply;  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  is  sufficient  for  asters,  and  in  the 
case  of  very  small  seeds  not  to  exceed  one-sixteenth 
of  an  inch.  Sweet  peas  planted  now  will  not  flower 
before  the  weather  is  too  warm  to  allow  a  normal 
development.  Small,  puny  flowers  will  result. 

March  is  the  ideal  month  for  the  sowing  of  a  host 
of  summer  annuals.  In  a  month  or  two  beds  which 
you  devoted  to  bulbs  for  winter  and  spring  bloom- 
ing will  be  empty,  so  make  preparations  for  succes- 
sional  plantings.  A  few  of  the  more  important  an- 
nuals for  summer  are :  Antirrhinum,  aster,  balsam, 
celosia,  cockscomb,  calliopsis,  centaurea,  cosmos, 
dianthus,  larkspur,  African  and  French  marigolds, 
nasturtium,  Phlox  Drummondi,  salpiglossis,  scabio- 
sa,  zinnia,  etc.  The  foregoing  are  but  a  few  lead- 
ers. There  are  dozens  of  others. 

PROPAGATION  BY  CUTTINGS 

Bottom  heat  either  in  greenhouse  or  in  a  hotbed 
made  with  stable  manure  will  prove  a  great  aid,  in 
all  cases  bringing  a  much  greater  proportion  of  the 
cuttings  to  root.  However,  bottom  heat  is  not 
needed,  though  better  results  can  be  obtained  with 
such  a  convenience.  The  average  garden  owner 
would  better  rely  on  the  nurseryman  for  needed 
plants.  For  those  who  wish  to  experiment  the  fol- 
lowing is  recommended. 

Make  all  cuttings  with  a  sharp  knife,  occasionally 
wiped  clean,  cutting  through  at  an  angle  of  about  45 
degrees,  just  below  a  bud  or  eye.  Insert  these  cut- 
tings in  a  box  of  clean,  sharp  sand  in  rows.  Do  not 
force  them  down  but  use  a  lath  or  other  straight 
edge  by  laying  on  sand  and  making  a  cut  in  the  wet 
sand  with  a  piece  of  shingle,  old  table  knife  or  simi- 
lar utensil,  and  after  insertion  of  cuttings  press  the 


172  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

sand  back  against  them  and  water  well.  After  this 
keep  damp,  not  wet,  yet  never  allow  to  dry,  and  see 
that  drainage  is  good  by  first  boring  a  few  small 
holes  through  bottom  of  box. 

All  bedding  plants  may  now  be  propagated,  such 
as  ageratum,  alternanthera,  begonia,  carnation, 
coleus,  fuchsia,  heliotrope,  iresine,  marguerite,  salvia 
and  santolina.  Select  young  brittle  tips.  Propagate 
violets  from  cuttings  so  that  you  may  have  flowering 
plants  for  next  winter. 

While  some  prefer  the  earlier  winter  months  for 
the  propagation  of  roses  from  hardwood  cuttings, 
there  are  many  gardeners  who  have  splendid  success 
with  March  cuttings.  All  deciduous  shrubs  and  trees 
that  have  not  yet  started  into  leaf  or  bloom,  such  as 
crepe  myrtle,  deutzia,  hydrangea,  lilac  and  weigelia, 
will  grow  very  readily  from  cuttings  during  this 
month,  and  any  of  these  sorts  to  be  moved  or  planted 
should  be  handled  at  once.  The  cuttings  should  be 
made  long  enough  to  have  three  or  more  eyes  and  be 
set  firmly  and  deeply  in  a  sand  box  or  the  ground, 
leaving  one  or  two  eyes  above  the  surface.  A  par- 
tially shaded  position  is  best. 

PROPAGATION  BY  DIVISION 

All  perennials  may  now  be  divided  and  replanted 
except  the  strictly  tropical  plants,  and  these  had  best 
be  left  for  a  while:  Delphinium,  or  larkspur; 
solidago,  or  goldenrod ;  helianthus,  sunflower,  peren- 
nial ;  pentstemon ;  phlox ;  rudbeckia,  or  golden  glow, 
and  Shasta  daisy  are  just  right  for  division,  and 
nearly  all  are  much  improved  by  the  process  being 
repeated  each  year. 

Old  roots  of  chrysanthemum  should  be  cultivated 
and  watered  imediately  to  provide  young  and  tender 
shoots  for  slips  or  cuttings  to  be  taken  during  April 


IN   CALIFORNIA  173 

or  May.  If  you  cannot  propagate  them  from  the 
cuttings,  divide  the  clumps  into  the  smallest  rooted 
pieces  you  can. 

Florists  and  gardeners  start  all  'mums  from  cut- 
tings each  year,  throwing  the  old  clumps  away  as 
soon  as  cuttings  are  rooted.  Clumps  of  all  the  oth- 
ers noted  may  be  divided  and  planted  according  to 
the  taste  of  the  planter.  The  latter  end  of  the  month 
is  early  enough  to  plant  your  broken  up  clumps  of 
canna,  caladium  or  elephant's  ear,  cyperus,  dahlia, 
ginger,  etc. 

BULBS 

Plant  out  summer  flowering  bulbs,  especially  more 
gladiolus,  reserving  a  few  for  later  planting,  though 
the  early  plantings  usually  give  best  results.  Trito- 
nia,  or  montbretia,  closely  allied  to  the  gladiolus,  may 
be  had  in  a  variety  of  shades  from  yellow  to  red ;  try 
a  few  of  the  better  sorts ;  they  need  no  care  but  being 
kept  free  from  weeds.  Calla,  canna,  dahlia,  tube- 
rose, and  tigridia  are  also  in  order  for  planting. 

Amaryllis  which  have  been  left  in  the  ground 
should  have  the  surrounding  soil  loosened  up  and 
pulverized,  and  they  should  be  given  a  good  mulching 
with  well  rotted  manure,  preferably  from  the  horse 
stable.  Tuberous  begonias,  if  started  now,  should  be 
planted  in  pots  and  later  placed  in  their  permanent 
home.  They  should  always  be  grown  in  the  shade 
and  have  a  rich,  loose,  well  drained  soil.  If  you  in- 
tend planting  the  bulbs  directly  in  the  soil,  hold  for  a 
month  yet.  Tritonias  may  be  treated  the  same  as 
gladiolus.  If  they  have  been  left  in  the  ground  for 
years  and  are  very  thick,  pull  out  three-fourths  of 
them ;  you  will  get  more  blooms  and  better  ones  than 
you  could  obtain  by  keeping  all. 


174  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

GENERAL  PLANTING 

March  is  the  month  in  which  to  look  after  plants 
for  next  winter's  flowers.  Especially  is  this  true  of 
carnation,  chrysanthemum  and  violet.  Carnations 
should  not  be  grown  longer  than  three  years  and 
should  then  be  replaced  by  younger  plants.  Now  is 
the  time  to  plant  aster,  celosia,  centaurea,  calliopsis, 
salvia,  Shasta  daisy  and  verbena. 

If  you  have  planted  no  pansy  seeds,  you  had  best 
buy  plants  now  for  it  is  rather  too  late  to  get  the  best 
results  from  seeds.  If  your  plants  are  already  grow- 
ing see  that  the  surface  soil  is  kept  well  stirred  and 
pulverized.  Pansies  are  gross  feeders  and  the  beds 
should  be  well  mulched  with  manure.  For  spring 
flowers  plant  in  sunny  place,  for  summer  flowering 
plant  in  a  somewhat  shady  place. 

Now  is  the  time  to  plant  violets,  either  in  young 
plants  or  cuttings,  to  get  the  best  results,  next  fall 
and  winter,  in  blooms.  Violets  like  a  rich,  loose  soil, 
with  a  top  mulch  of  light  manure  during  the  heated 
term,  and  don't  forget  to  give  them  a  generous  sup- 
ply of  water  at  frequent  intervals.  Put  your  plants 
in  several  exposures,  not  all  in  the  shade,  so  that  you 
may  be  able  to  gather  violets  over  a  considerable 
period  of  time. 

PRUNING  SHRUBS  AND  VINES 

Prune  hydrangea  now,  as  it  flowers  on  the  current 
season's  growth.  Also  cut  poinsettia  back  to  three 
eyes  of  last  season's  growth.  Do  not  prune  deutzia, 
spirea,  syringa,  and  weigelia  at  this  time.  If  you 
do  you  will  lose  most  of  your  blooming  wood.  They 
should  be  pruned  immediately  after  they  are  through 
blooming. 

Bignonia  and  bougainvillea  should  be  pruned  now. 
On  bignonia  leave  as  many  of  the  stronger  growths 


IN   CALIFORNIA  175 

as  are  needed  to  cover  the  object  on  Which  it  is  to 
grow,  and  cut  out  all  other  main  shoots  back  to  the 
root.  All  laterals  on  the  shoots  left  should  be  cut 
back  to  two  or  three  eyes,  not  more.  Cut  out  all  the 
coarse  suckers  that  came  from  the  roots  of  the  bou- 
gainvillea  last  year,  for  they  will  produce  but  few 
flowers,  and  thin  out  the  vine  to  suit  yourself,  though 
the  main  stems  should  not  be  trimmed  clean  at  the 
bottom.  These  vines  look  best  when  well  furnished 
with  foliage  to  the  ground.  No  danger  will  result 
from  heavy  pruning ;  it  is  needed. 

PRUNE  AND  FEED  ROSES 

Be  careful  not  to  trim  spring  and  early  summer 
blooming  climbers  now  or  you  will  get  few  flowers. 
These  roses:  Banksias,  Beauty  of  Glazenwood, 
Cherokees,  Gold  of  Ophir,  etc.,  should  be  given  only 
such  pruning  as  is  necessary  to  keep  them  within 
proper  bounds  immediately  after  their  annual  crop 
of  flowers.  After  this  period  they  bend  all  their  en- 
ergies toward  making  flower  bearing  wood  for  next 
year.  This  in  itself  is  enough  to  suggest  the  proper 
pruning  season. 

During  this  month  roses  push  out  their  new 
growths.  New  canes  will  break  from  the  eyes  both 
above  and  below  the  surface  of  the  soil.  Assist  this 
growth  in  every  manner  possible.  Give  the  beds  a 
good  forking  over,  dress  the  surface  with  a  liberal 
coat  of  air  slacked  lime  to  sweeten  it,  following  some 
time  later  with  a  heavy  mulch  of  any  good  fibrous 
manure.  Subsequent  rains  or  waterings  will  leach 
the  plant  food  from  this  dressing  and  give  a  sur- 
passing vigor  to  the  new  growths.  In  proportion  as 
you  treat  roses  now  will  they  repay  you  in  bloom 
production  during  April,  May  and  June. 


176  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

LAWN  WORK 

There  is  no  better  time  than  the  present  for  lawn 
work  of  all  kinds,  whether  it  be  the  planting  of  new 
ones  or  the  renovation,  rolling  or  fertilization  of  old 
ones.  From  now  until  the  cold  weather  of  next  win- 
ter comes  the  grass  will  make  a  steady  luxurious 
growth,  receiving  no  check,  such  as  is  often  noticed 
on  lawns  which  were  fertilized  too  early. 

Be  sure  to  fertilize  your  lawn  this  month  for  the 
increasing  power  of  the  sun  will  soon  start  it  into 
vigorous  growth.  A  commercial  fertilizer  is  much 
to  be  preferred  to  stable  manure  full  of  weed  seeds. 
Also  seed  the  places  now  bare  or  where  weeds  are 
so  thick  that  no  grass  remains  after  their  removal. 

APRIL 

The  warm  sunshine  is  peculiarly  severe  on  plants 
at  this  season  when  the  growth  is  young  and  tender, 
and  the  need  for  water  to  keep  up  this  new  growth 
is  great.  A  light  sprinkling  each  morning  before 
the  sun  shines  too  fiercely  (better  still  before  sun- 
rise) is  an  excellent  invigorator,  but  will  not  take 
the  place  of  the  necessary  copious  irrigation  at  the 
roots  that  the  plants  should  have  about  twice  each 
week.  This  prescription  is  for  herbaceous  plants; 
once  each  week  is  enough  for  shrubs  of  normal 
growth. 

GENERAL  WORK 

This  is  a  busy  month  in  the  garden;  there  is  all 
kinds  of  work  to  keep  one  busy.  It  is  the  last  month 
in  which  spring  planting  should  be  done.  Now  the 
ground  is  warm  enough  to  induce  a  quick,  vigorous 
growth,  and  all  plants  will  give  satisfaction.  When 
watering,  do  it  thoroughly ;  sprinkling  the  top  of  the 
ground  does  little  good.  Get  all  spraying  for  plant 


IN   CALIFORNIA  177 

pests  and  diseases  done  before  it  gets  too  hot.  Watch 
rose  bushes  for  green  aphis  and  if  troubled  use  to- 
bacco dust  freely. 

In  this  warm  weather  pansy  roots  must  be  kept 
cool  and  moist  or  the  blossoming  will  be  checked; 
loosen  the  soil  about  the  plants  without  disturbing 
the  roots,  and  then  give  a  good  mulch  of  fine  stable 
manure.  Perform  the  same  office  for  the  amaryllis 
and  hippeastrum  bulbs,  but  stir  the  soil  more  deeply. 
Thin  out  plants  sown  from  seeds,  if  in  their  proper 
place,  or  transplant  at  once.  Do  not  try  to  save 
sickly  ones ;  they  never  recuperate  satisfactorily. 

SEED  SOWING 

Sow  in  seed  boxes  perennials  like  campanula,  col- 
umbine, foxglove,  daisy,  hollyhock,  larkspur,  pent- 
stemon,  gaillardia,  coreopsis,  also  snapdragon. 

Sow  in  the  garden  all  annuals,  especially  agera- 
tum,  balsam,  centaurea,  cockscomb,  marigold,  cos- 
mos, nasturtium,  phlox,  poppy,  portulaca,  scabiosa, 
salpiglossis,  zinnia;  also  vines  such  as  Australian 
pea  vine,  morning  glory,  cypress  vine. 

DIVISION  OF  PERENNIALS 

If  you  have  not  yet  divided  clumps  of  goldenrod, 
golden  glow,  or  rudbeckia,  etc.,  by  all  means  do  so  at 
once  before  the  new  growth  gets  too  large.  All  per- 
ennials should  be  divided  or  replanted  as  quickly  as 
possible,  for  the  best  growing  weather  is  now  with 
us. 

During  the  present  month  all  canna,  caladium, 
cyclamen,  banana  and  dahlia  plants  still  out  of  the 
soil  should  be  placed  in  the  garden,  and  as  they  are 
what  is  known  as  tropical  bedders,  they  will  be  most 
effective  if  massed,  with  the  tallest  at  the  back; 


178  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

planted  in  "bank"  effect.     Water  often  and  most 
thoroughly. 

BULBS 

Spring  bulb  flowers  will  be  nearly  past  now ;  gar- 
deners who  have  been  very  successful  still  plant: 
amaryllis,  canna,  dahlia,  gladiolus  and  tuberose. 

If  you  wish  good  tuberous  begonias  in  the  open 
ground,  plant  them  now,  having  a  good,  rich  soil,  as 
near  to  that  recommended  for  pot  culture  as  is  pos- 
sible to  obtain.  In  addition  to  the  ordinary  single 
and  double  strains,  there  are  superb  varieties  that 
should  be  grown  in  every  garden.  These  are  a  great 
improvement  on  those  ordinarily  seen  in  California 
gardens. 

A  good  compost  for  potting  these  begonias  con- 
sists of  one-third  garden  loam,  one-third  leaf  mold, 
and  the  remaining  one-third  of  equal  parts  of  sharp 
sand  and  well  rotted  manure.  Be  sure  to  place  the 
tubers  with  the  hollow  sides  upward,  as  all  the  plant 
growth  starts  from  within  this  hollow.  If  in  pots, 
put  them  in  a  shady  place  until  growth  shows 
through  the  soil,  when  they  may  be  moved  into  the 
light  and  gradually  exposed  to  the  forenoon's  sun. 
The  advantage  of  starting  them  in  pots  is  that  you 
may  use  the  ground  intended  for  them  for  spring 
blooming  plants  and  bulbs  whose  season  will  be  past 
by  the  time  your  begonias  demand  planting  out. 

HERBACEOUS  PLANTS 

It  is  not  too  late  to  put  out  bedding  plants  such  as 
salvia,  marigold,  alternanthera,  etc.,  and  they  do  as 
well  as  those  planted  in  early  spring. 

This  is  a  good  time  to  bed  out  for  permanent  ef- 
fect, the  very  best  for  geraniums  and  herbaceous 
plants  of  their  class.  Set  out :  Aster,  antirrhinum, 
centaurea,  calliopsis,  chrysanthemum  and  celosia. 


IN   CALIFORNIA  179 

CARE  OF  LAWNS 

Lawns  will  need  to  be  watered  often  as  lawn  grass 
does  not  root  over  two  or  three  inches  deep,  but 
water  thoroughly  and  induce  deep  rooting. 

Some  may  not  have  fertilized  their  lawns  as  yet, 
though  the  time  is  ripe.  Try  some  commercial  fer- 
tilizer this  spring  and  note  the  season's  growth  of 
grass;  these  balanced  mixtures  should  prove  much 
superior  to  weed-bearing  stable  manures.  From  now 
until  winter  the  grass  should  make  a  steady,  luxu- 
rious growth,  receiving  no  check. 

MAY 

During  the  summer  it  is  not  best  to  water  many 
plants  during  the  heat  of  the  day.  Water  in  the 
evening  so  that  the  plants  may  absorb  the  moisture 
during  the  night  and  they  will  be  the  better  able  to 
stand  the  evaporation  occurring  during  the  day ;  or 
do  the  sprinkling  very  early  in  the  morning. 

Throughout  the  summer  the  air  is  generally  hot 
and  dry  and  dissipates  much  of  the  moisture  in- 
tended for  plants  to  consume;  consequently  it  is 
during  the  prevalence  of  hot  weather  and  rapid 
growth  that  plants  require  food  in  soluble  form. 
Liquid  fertilizers  are  readily  absorbed  by  the  feed- 
ing roots  and  at  once  assimilated  by  the  tissues  of 
plants.  The  excess  of  moisture  lost  through  evapo- 
ration is  compensated  for  by  the  plant  food  con- 
tained in  the  part  that  is  absorbed. 

In  the  case  of  house  and  porch  plants,  small,  neat 
beds  against  the  house,  etc.,  it  is  often  impracticable 
to  use  stable  manure,  especially  if  none  but  the 
coarser  kinds  are  obtainable,  but  every  one,  espe- 
cially in  the  suburbs  or  country,  may  keep  a  supply 
of  liquid  manure.  Fill  a  common  grain  sack  with 


180  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

any  kind  of  manure,  though  the  older  the  better. 
Put  it  in  a  barrel  and  fill  with  water.  After  stand- 
ing 24  hours  it  is  ready  for  use.  The  barrel  can  be 
refilled  with  water  several  times  without  replenish- 
ishing  the  supply  of  manure,  but  with  each  filling 
the  water  must  be  allowed  to  stand  a  longer  time 
before  using. 

SEED  SOWING 

For  later  planting  in  the  garden  sow  seeds  of 
primula  and  calceolaria  or  set  out  plants  of  the  same 
raised  from  former  sowings.  Seeds  of  many  annuals 
and  perennials  may  still  be  sown,  though  nearly  all 
seed  sowing  should  be  completed  this  month. 

It  is  not  too  late  to  sow,  either  in  boxes  or  in  seed 
beds  or  permanent  places,  seeds  of  carnation,  cos- 
mos, coreopsis,  candytuft,  centaurea,  daisies,  digi- 
talis, forget-me-not,  gaillardia,  marigold,  nasturtium, 
phlox,  petunia,  poppies,  salpiglossis  and  scabiosa. 

BULBS 

If  they  have  been  kept  in  a  cool,  dark  place  you 
may  still  procure  and  plant  dormant  bulbs  of  amaryl- 
lis,  allium,  begonia,  canna,  cyclamen,  dahlia,  freesia, 
gladiolus,  iris,  scilla,  tigridia  and  tuberose. 

Hyacinths,  narcissi  and  other  Holland  bulbs  will 
now  be  ripening  their  tops.  If  the  area  they  occupy 
is  not  to  be  used  for  other  plants  they  may  as  well 
remain  in  present  position,  but  if  not  they  had  bet- 
ter be  taken  up  and  stored  till  next  season  in  a  cool, 
dry,  dark  place.  Place  them  in  a  box  of  damp  sand 
and  they  will  cure  as  the  sand  dries.  If  sand  is  not 
easily  obtainable,  well-pulverized  soil  will  do,  or  take 
up  each  bulb  with  some  of  the  surrounding  soil  still 
adhering  to  it  and  let  it  so  remain  for  a  few  weeks, 
after  which  the  bulbs  may  be  taken  out  and  kept 
cool  and  dry  until  planting  season. 


IN   CALIFORNIA  181 

HERBACEOUS  PLANTS 

Chrysanthemum  plants  should  now  be  well  estab- 
lished in  pots  and  may  be  put  in  the  garden  at  once. 
Also  set  out  in  the  garden  plants  of  antirrhinum, 
aster,  balsam,  centaurea,  dianthus,  marigold  and 
zinnia. 

Young  plants  of  carnation  are  now  growing  vigor- 
ously and  are  usually  too  slender.  They  should  have 
the  leaders  cut  or  pinched  off  to  induce  stocky  plants. 
If  they  are  allowed  their  natural  growth  they  will 
run  up  in  tall,  spindly  flower  stalks,  bloom  too  early 
and  produce  flowers  inferior  to  those  of  headed 
plants. 

JUNE 

Little  new  work  or  planting  should  be  done  at  this 
late  period,  and  work  during  June  will  consist  mainly 
in  keeping  the  garden  watered  and  taking  care  of  it 
in  a  general  way. 

Garden  owners  of  limited  experience  are  too  apt 
to  neglect  their  gardens  during  the  early  part  of 
summer.  Having  planted,  cultivated  and  watched 
the  unfolding  of  leaf  and  blossom  of  spring  growth, 
they  rest  from  their  labors  in  the  belief  that  the  sea- 
son's gardening  operations  are  practically  over. 

Weeds  grow  under  the  stimulus  of  water  and  sun- 
shine just  as  luxuriantly  now  as  in  the  springtime, 
and  the  ripening  seeds  of  summer  are  just  as  potent 
and  productive  as  those  of  early  harvest  days.  The 
summer's  sun  is  just  now  stronger  and  shines  longer 
upon  the  garden  than  at  any  other  time  of  the  year ; 
the  evaporation  and  drain  upon  the  soil  moisture  are 
therefore  correspondingly  greater. 

Frequent  and  copious  irrigations,  followed  by  thor- 
ough cultivations,  must  be  rigidly  practiced,  and  the 
morning  spraying,  just  before  the  heat  of  the  sun 


182  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

strikes  the  plants,  should  not  be  forgotten.  Do  not 
water  and  spray  in  the  evening  except  for  special 
plants,  as  it  leaves  both  soil  and  air  cold  and  damp 
throughout  the  night,  and  the  following  day  with  its 
dry  heat  brings  too  great  a  contrast  'twixt  night  and 
day;  this  is  one  of  the  chief  causes  of  mildew  on 
roses,  sweet  peas,  etc.,  and  other  fungous  diseases. 

In  your  garden  operations  aim  to  equalize  condi- 
tions of  night  and  day  so  far  as  possible.  Spray  and 
water  in  the  morning  and  the  plants  will  have  cool, 
moist  soil  and  atmosphere  to  help  withstand  the 
desiccating  influence  of  our  summer's  sun  and  heat. 
Before  nightfall  air  and  plants  have  taken  up  the 
moisture,  and  both  atmosphere  and  soil  are  dry  and 
warm  for  the  night.  Aim  to  equalize  the  temper- 
ature throughout  each  twenty-four  hours  by  making 
the  night  air  warmer  and  the  day  air  cooler. 

If  a  study  is  made  of  atmospheric  and  soil  condi- 
tions we  need  not  have  so  much  of  mildew  or  weak- 
ened plants.  Only  the  sharp  contrast  in  temper- 
ature between  day  and  night  prevents  us  from  hav- 
ing perfect  roses.  Too  many  think  that  mildew  and 
similar  troubles  are  due  to  the  winter's  rains,  but 
they  are  just  as  prevalent  and  destructive  in  the  gar- 
den at  present  as  during  the  rainy  season.  Then, 
too,  England,  a  country  of  fog  and  drizzle,  grows  the 
finest  roses  in  the  world,  and  the  "web-foot"  Ore- 
gonians  produce  the  finest  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  so 
that  mere  rain  supply  would  appear  to  be  an  ad- 
vantage rather  than  a  detriment. 

SOWING  AND  PLANTING 

Sow  stock  for  early  winter  flowers  and  start  euca- 
lyptus and  cypress  from  seed  for  winter  planting. 
Seeds  of  many  annuals  and  perennials  may  be 
planted  if  your  gardening  is  late:  Carnation,  cos- 


IN   CALIFORNIA  183 

mos,  coreopsis,  candytuft,  cineraria,  centaurea,  digi- 
talis, daisy,  forget-me-not,  gaillardia,  marigold, 
phlox,  petunia,  poppy  and  salpiglossis. 

This  is  the  last  month  in  which  the  bulbs  of  canna, 
dahlia  and  gladiolus  should  be  planted;  also  plant: 
Ageratum,  balsam,  carnation,  cosmos,  centaurea, 
coreopsis,  celosia,  daisy,  hollyhock,  snapdragon,  vio- 
let and  zinnia.  Pelargonium  can  be  started  from  cut- 
tings now  and  by  next  spring  will  produce  strong, 
bushy  plants.  It  is  still  time  to  start  late  flowering 
chrysanthemum.  Cuttings  can  be  put  in  from  now 
till  the  middle  of  July,  and  they  will  produce  good 
flowers. 

SEASONABLE  SUGGESTIONS 

Small  greenhouses  in  which  you  are  growing  ferns, 
begonias  and  that  class  of  plants  should  have  a 
heavy  shading  on  the  glass,  and  the  houses  should 
be  sprayed  every  morning  in  bright  weather,  and  on 
very  hot  days  the  woodwork,  paths  and  all  absorbent 
surfaces  sprayed  two  or  three  times  a  day  to  keep 
down  the  temperature,  for  the  nearer  you  can  keep 
the  temperature  of  your  greenhouses  to  70  degrees 
the  better  your  plants  will  do. 

Late  sweet  peas,  in  cool  and  coastal  sections,  are 
now  in  full  bloom  and  the  flowers  should  be  picked 
off,  for  the  forming  of  one  seed  pod  exhausts  the 
plant  more  than  the  production  of  a  hundred  flowers. 
Mulch  the  roots  with  stable  litter  or  clippings  from 
the  lawn  and  spray  the  foliage  at  least  once  a  day. 
The  spraying  should  be  done  in  the  early  morn- 
ing. Do  all  your  watering  in  the  morning 
and  never  spray  your  plants  after  noon  for  they  will 
not  dry  off  before  night,  and  this  may  cause  mildew. 

Many  rose  bushes  have  had  one  crop  of  flowers, 
and  the  long  barren  flower  stems  are  sucking  up 


184  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

the  plant's  vitality  at  the  expense  of  new  flowering 
shoots  that  are  starting  vigorously  from  various 
parts.  Cut  off  these  bygone  stems,  as  they  interfere 
with  food,  light  and  air  necessary  for  the  small  crop 
of  good  blossoms  you  should  yet  garner.  Soon  rest- 
ing time  will  come  for  roses  and  you  should  hasten 
the  maturity  of  the  remaining  flower  crop  as  much 
as  possible.  If  you  are  troubled  with  mildew  use 
sulphur  sprinkled  by  hand  over  vines  and  surface  of 
ground  beneath.  Do  this  on  a  hot  day,  for  it  is  the 
fumes  only,  created  by  the  sun's  heat,  that  destroy 
the  mildew. 

Sulphur  used  in  cool,  cloudy  weather  avails  noth- 
ing, and  the  fumes  rise  best  from  the  heated  surface 
of  the  soil.  Therefore,  spray  the  vines  or  bushes  first 
with  water,  very  lightly,  so  that  sulphur  will  lodge 
and  stick  on  the  sunny  side  of  the  wood,  but  aim  to 
keep  the  soil  surface  from  getting  so  wet  that  sul- 
phur will  not  "fume."  Some  old  country  garden- 
ers put  heated  bricks  beneath  rose  bushes  and  sprin- 
kle sulphur  on  them ;  this  is  an  excellent  practice  if 
one  cares  to  take  the  trouble  and  does  not  get  the 
bricks  too  hot,  for  sulphur  fumes  in  great  volume 
are  injurious  to  all  classes  of  vegetation.  For  this 
reason  scatter  sulphur  very  thinly  and  evenly  or 
foliage  in  some  parts  may  be  damaged  on  hot  days. 

JULY 

As  one  wanders  along  the  highways  and  byways 
during  the  summer  he  is  oft  impressed  with  the  ex- 
quisite beauty  of  some  plant,  shrub  or  tree  in  a  seem- 
ingly neglected  garden,  so  perfectly  in  health  and  at 
home  that  it  seems  as  though  specially  designed  for 
the  place.  At  this  time  out  should  come  the  notebook 
and  pencil  and  down  should  go  the  name  of  such 
plant,  for  here  indeed  is  the  "proof  of  the  pudding." 


IN  CALIFORNIA  185 

In  no  other  way  may  you  so  surely  get  a  list  of  plants 
which  will  endure  to  the  end. 

SOWING  AND  PLANTING 

You  may  still  sow  antirrhinum,  Canterbury  bell, 
centaurea,  cosmos,  lobelia,  pansy  and  stock.  Con- 
tinue sowing  eucalyptus  and  cypress  seeds. 

Great  care  must  be  paid  to  the  watering,  that 
beds  or  boxes  do  not  dry  out,  and  if  the  sun  is  very 
hot  they  may  be  shaded  by  stretching  a  piece  of 
canvas  over  a  wooden  framework  and  placing  this 
over  them,  a  foot  or  more  from  the  ground,  during 
the  hottest  part  of  the  day.  Gradually  remove  this 
covering  until  the  plants  are  perfectly  strong  and 
stocky.  They  are  then  ready  for  transplanting  into 
flats,  boxes  or  pots. 

Carnation,  cosmos,  coreopsis,  candytuft,  cen- 
taurea, daisy,  digitalis,  forget-me-not,  gaillardia, 
marigold,  phlox,  petunia,  salpiglossis,  scabiosa  and 
violet  may  still  be  planted. 

SEASONABLE  SUGGESTIONS 

Those  bulbs  now  in  the  ripening  stage,  should  be 
taken  up  when  the  tops  have  died  down  and  placed 
in  boxes  of  damp  sand  in  a  cool  place  and  allowed  to 
cure  as  the  sand  dries.  Well  pulverized  earth  will 
do  if  you  have  no  sand. 

Pelargoniums  are  now  in  full  bloom.  These  plants 
do  not  require  very  rich  soil  and  should  be  kept  on 
the  dry  side.  If  kept  too  wet  the  foliage  will  shrivel 
up,  and  if  given  too  rich  soil  they  make  all  foliage 
and  no  flowers.  The  foliage  or  flowers  should  never 
get  wet. 

When  through  watering,  do  not  leave  the  hose  at- 
tached to  the  hydrant.  Take  it  off,  coil  it  up  and 
hang  on  a  peg,  stub  of  a  tree,  limb  or  something  suit- 


186  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

able.  With  such  treatment  a  hose  will  last  at  least 
twice  as  long  as  if  left  lying  on  the  ground  full  of 
water. 

Keeping  cut  flowers  for  a  considerable  time  is  very 
easy  at  this  season  if  a  little  care  is  taken.  Every 
day  or  two,  in  addition  to  changing  the  water,  cut  off 
a  quarter  to  half  an  inch  of  the  stem.  This  removes 
the  portion  with  the  pores  closed  by  congealed  sap 
and  allows  the  water  free  access  to  the  stem. 

Insect  pests  are  hatching  every  day  and  must  be 
combated  in  every  way  possible.  While  some  propa- 
gate on  leaf  and  twig  the  more  voracious  sorts  are 
hatched  or  developed  in  some  stage  in  the  soil,  so  that 
frequent  and  thorough  stirring  of  the  surface  will 
destroy  many  of  them  and  also  expose  them  to  the 
predatory  birds  and  garden  toads. 

AUGUST 

During  the  summer  months  when  many  bushes 
and  vines  are  still  covered  with  bloom  there  is  a  dis- 
position among  home  gardeners  to  regard  their  work 
as  finished  and  to  rest  on  their  laurels,  as  it  were. 
There  is  a  tendency  to  neglect  the  flower  garden,  to 
let  it  take  care  of  itself,  and  neglect  now  is  more 
fatal  than  at  any  other  period.  Just  a  little  neglect 
now  means  destruction  to  some  of  the  beautiful 
plants  that  cost  time  and  money. 

Neglect  now  will  give  the  aphis  and  other  insect 
enemies  a  chance  to  get  in  some  very  deadly  work. 
Neglect  in  tying  up  the  long  stalks  of  late  gladiolus 
will  cause  them  to  fall  during  wind  storms.  Neglect 
in  watering  plants  of  all  kinds  will  cause  them  to  dry 
up,  wither  and  die,  defeating  the  object  for  which 
they  were  planted.  Neglect  to  use  the  hoe  will  give 
the  weeds  a  chance  to  grow  and  crowd  out  the  flow- 
ers. In  short,  neglect  of  any  kind  will  undo  much 


IN   CALIFORNIA  187 

of  the  good  work  that  was  done  earlier  in  the  sea- 
son. 

SOWING  AND  PLANTING 

This  is  the  best  month  in  the  year  in  which  to  sow 
hardy  perennials.  Most  varieties  if  sown  this  month 
will  flower  the  next  year.  Also  sow  calceolaria, 
cineraria,  columbine,  calendula,  Canterbury  bell,  cos- 
mos, lobelia,  pansy,  pink,  primula,  petunia  and  ver- 
bena. Continue  growing  eucalyptus  and  cypress 
seeds. 

Those  who  have  shady  beds  should  grow  cinera- 
rias. The  proper  directions  for  sowing  and  the  care 
of  young  seedlings  will  be  found  upon  trade  packets. 
But  remember  that  at  every  stage  of  its  career  the 
cineraria  is  a  cool  weather  plant  and  must  not  be 
exposed  to  full  sunshine  during  the  middle  of  the 
day.  Many  of  the  colors  are  unknown  in  other 
plants  and  consist  of  what  is  known  as  metallic 
shades,  ranging  from  white  to  purple.  While  excel- 
lent as  a  short  season  autumn  bedding  plant  the 
cineraria  is  a  good  subject  for  potting,  and  in  either 
situation  requires  a  loose  rich  soil  and  frequent  feed- 
ings of  weak  liquid  manure.  It  must  be  carefully 
protected  from  plant  lice,  its  greatest  enemy. 

You  may  still  plant  out:  Carnation,  cosmos, 
coreopsis,  candytuft,  centaurea,  digitalis,  daisy, 
gaillardia,  marigold,  phlox,  petunia,  salpiglossis, 
scabiosa  and  violet. 

SEASONABLE  SUGGESTIONS 

Don't  water  roses  this  or  next  month  at  all.  Let 
the  soil  dry  out  and  rest  the  plants. 

House  plants  will  dry  out  fast  these  long  days. 
Watch  them  closely  and  never  let  the  plants  get  wilt- 
ing dry.  Spray  the  foliage  as  often  as  you  can  find 


188  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

time  and  you  will  be  rewarded  with  a  stronger  and 
healthier  growth. 

Chrysanthemums  will  assimilate  all  the  water  you 
may  give  them  from  now  until  the  last  bloom  is 
picked.  Until  the  color  of  the  buds  shows  also  fer- 
tilize heavily.  Neglect  at  this  time  with  water  means 
failure  of  the  flower  crop. 

Dahlias  that  bloomed  early  and  were  cut  down  will 
now  be  coming  on  for  a  fall  crop  of  blossoms.  Those 
cut  down  now,  if  well  watered  and  fertilized,  will 
yield  a  splendid  show  of  color  in  November.  Too 
many  of  our  dahlias  bloom  in  hot  weather,  and  they 
are  by  no  means  a  hot  weather  flower.  Flowers  in 
April  and  May  and  October  and  November  are  by 
far  better  than  those  of  midsummer. 

SEPTEMBER 

The  month  of  September  may  well  be  regarded  as 
one  of  the  most  important  in  the  calendar  of  garden 
operations.  It  is  during  this  period  that  every  owner 
of  a  garden  should  make  preparations  for  the  late 
autumn  and  winter  floral  display. 

Do  not  wait  until  the  planting  time  is  over,  and 
autumn  and  winter  annuals  and  perennials  have 
come  into  flower,  and  you  notice  them  in  your  neigh- 
bor's garden,  to  find  out  that  you  want  them.  Either 
make  your  preparations  to  get  them  in  in  proper  sea- 
son or  save  the  money. 

SEED   SOWING 

Sow  pansy  seed  this  month,  and  another  important 
winter  flowering  bedder  for  putting  in  at  present  is 
stock.  Also  sow:  Columbine,  calendula,  candytuft 
and  forget-me-not. 

A  few  cosmos  seed  sown  at  this  season  will  give 


IN   CALIFORNIA  189 

you  a  fine  show  of  bloom  by  November  and  on  dwarf 
plants  which  require  no  staking. 

A  pinch  of  mignonette  seed  sown  in  September 
will  give  you  an  abundance  of  fine  blooms  right 
through  the  winter.  It  is  hardy,  easily  grown  and 
exceedingly  fragrant.  The  best  variety  to  sow  is 
the  French  variety,  Machet. 

This  is  the  month  for  the  first  sowing  of  winter 
sweet  peas,  and  followed  in  October  by  a  second  one, 
will  give  you  an  abundant  succession  of  cut  flowers 
right  up  to  the  time  when  the  late  flowered  Spencer 
varieties  or  those  of  the  grandiflora  type  begin  to 
produce  blossoms.  We  have  no  winter  and  early 
spring  crop  of  flowers  that  surpasses  the  up-to-date 
strains  of  sweet  peas. 

BULBS 

Commence  planting  hyacinth,  tulip,  anemone  and 
other  Dutch  bulbs  toward  the  end  of  the  month,  also 
amaryllis,  calla,  freesia  and  iris. 

This  is  the  time  of  the  year  to  divide  your  clumps 
of  German  iris.  If  allowed  to  stand  several  seasons 
the  rhizomes  become  crowded  and  the  blooms  subse- 
quently produced  are  small  and  on  short  stems. 

Make  a  planting  during  this  month  of  ranunculus 
and  anemone.  There  is  nothing  finer  in  existence  for 
spring  and  winter  show  than  these  lovely  bulbous 
plants,  and  they  give  more  satisfactory  results  than 
anything  of  like  price  in  the  garden.  Anemone  put 
in  during  the  month  of  September  often  produces 
flowers  at  Christmas. 

Begin  at  once  to  prepare  beds  intended  for  bulbs. 
This  work  should  be  done  several  days  in  advance 
of  the  actual  planting  time.  Dig  them  over  thor- 
oughly and  deeply.  Incorporate  plenty  of  rotted 
manure  and  turn  over  several  times.  The  majority 


190  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

of  bulbous  plants  require  a  light  loamy  soil  which  is 
well  drained.  There  are  few  which  do  well  in  soils 
of  a  heavy  nature. 

BEDDING  PLANTS 

Prick  off  calceolaria  and  primula  sown  last  month, 
into  pots,  and  continue  sowing  same  for  succession. 

Beds  which  have  contained  summer  annuals,  such 
as  asters,  etc.,  may  be  filled  out  with  stock,  Canter- 
bury bell,  centaurea,  sweet  William,  gaillardia,  sal- 
piglossis,  columbine,  antirrhinum,  perennial  co- 
reopsis, foxglove,  pentstemon ;  all  of  which  are  inex- 
pensive and  will  provide  a  bountiful  supply  of  flow- 
ers both  for  garden  ornamentation  and  for  cutting 
purposes. 

Dead  and  dying  flower  stems,  leaves,  etc.,  should 
be  gathered  and  burned  or  composted.  If  allowed  to 
cumber  the  ground  they  will  all  too  soon  begin  to 
harbor  insects,  and  in  the  process  of  decay  produce 
fungous  diseases.  If  one  has  a  place  for  a  compost 
heap,  the  leaves  and  herbaceous  material  may  easily 
be  taken  care  if.  If  burned,  the  ashes  may  be  re- 
turned to  the  soil  with  good  profit,  as  they  contain  a 
considerable  quantity  of  potash  and  still  more  of 
lime,  both  good  substances  to  apply  to  lawn  or  gar- 
den soils. 

AUTUMN  LAWNS 

Don't  forget  that  fall  lawn  planting  may  be  done 
in  September  with  excellent  results.  A  fallacious 
idea  is  somewhat  prevalent  in  California  that  lawns 
are  best  put  in  during  the  winter  months.  When 
sown  at  that  period  there  is  a  natural  germination 
of  all  weed  seeds,  which  entails  a  vast  amount  of 
labor  for  their  removal. 

Sown  at  this  season  blue  grass  and  clover  germ- 


IN   CALIFORNIA  191 

inate  rapidly,  the  former  in  about  eight  to  ten  days 
and  the  latter  in  five  to  six  days.  If  properly  put  in, 
a  dense  bright  green  mat  will  form  that  will  be 
ready  for  cutting  in  six  to  seven  weeks.  It  should 
grow  so  dense  that  it  will  choke  out  in  large  measure, 
and  prevent  the  germination  of,  the  crop  of  winter 
weeds.  In  purchasing  either  blue  grass  or  clover 
seed  insist  upon  having  the  highest  quality. 

TIMELY  PRUNING 

Look  over  Cherokee  rose  hedges  during  this  month 
and  should  they  require  pruning  do  it  at  once.  To 
delay  and  prune  later  is  proper  with  those  roses  of 
the  noisette  type,  such  as  La  Marque,  Reve  d'Or,  etc., 
but  is  fatal  to  best  results  in  the  spring  blooming 
of  the  Cherokees. 

During  this  month  cut  back,  but  not  too  severely, 
hedges  of  lantana,  heliotrope,  geranium,  etc.  With 
many  plants  of  this  character  there  is  a  heavy  crop 
of  seed  during  autumn,  which  saps  their  vitality. 
Trimming  them  at  this  period  removes  the  seed  and 
induces  a  fresh  growth  of  young  shoots,  which  ex- 
tends their  blooming  season  to  the  middle  of  winter. 

OCTOBER 

The  month  of  October  should  be  a  busy  one  in  all 
California  gardens,  for  it  stands  much  in  the  same 
relation  to  us  as  do  April  and  May  in  the  snow- 
bound eastern  states.  Among  the  flowers  it  is  bulb 
month. 

The  dry,  rainless  period  is  nearly  over  and  ere 
long  the  first  rains  of  autumn  will  wake  to  life  every 
dormant  seed,  bulb,  and  plant.  Soon  the  whole 
country  will  be  clothed  with  beauteous  green  and 
brilliant  blossoms.  Gardening  should  be  so  ordered 


192  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

that  cultivated  crops  will  harmonize  and  keep  pace 
with  the  fullness  of  vegetative  life  about  us. 

SEED  SOWING 

Make  a  sowing  of  California  poppy  and  other  na- 
tive seeds  during  this  month,  doing  it  at  this  time 
will  give  them  a  long  growing  season  and  the  full 
advantage  of  the  winter  rains. 

It  is  also  just  the  time  to  sow  hardy  annuals  and 
perennials  for  bedding  plants.  The  list  of  these  is : 
calendula,  Canterbury  bell,  centaurea,  cineraria, 
coreopsis,  columbine,  dianthus,  forget-me-not,  fox- 
glove, larkspur,  lobelia,  mignonette,  pansy,  phlox, 
salpiglossis,  scabiosa,  snapdragon,  stock,  and  sweet 
pea. 

BULBS 

October  is  the  best  month  for  plantings  of  Spanish 
iris,  cyclamen,  freesia,  and  gladiolus  in  the  early 
flowering  varieties,  the  Bride,  Blushing  Bride,  and 
Peachblow.  Also  plant  watsonias,  lilies,  and  all 
those  bulbs  that  are  known  to  gardeners  as  Dutch 
bulbs.  These  are  such  as  anemones,  hyacinths,  nar- 
cissi, ranunculi  and  tulips. 

In  planting  any  of  the  latter  it  will  be  well  to 
drop  a  little  sharp  sand  in  the  hole  before  filling  in 
with  soil.  This  method  will  often  prevent  rot  in  case 
the  soil  is  kept  too  wet.  A  most  important  factor 
of  success  in  the  growing  of  bulbous  plants  is  to 
have  soil  in  a  sweet,  friable  condition.  They  are 
fond  of  plenty  of  manure. 

Arrange  bulb  beds  so  that  you  can  follow  with  suc- 
cessive plantings  during  November  and  December. 
Take  for  example  the  matter  of  planting  narcissi, 
or  daffodils  as  they  are  more  commonly  called.  By 
making  a  first  planting  now,  a  second  in  November 
and  a  third  as  late  as  the  fifteenth  of  December,  you 


IN  CALIFORNIA  193 

can  have  a  constant  succession  of  blooms  from  late 
February  up  to  the  first  of  May. 

Build  the  beds  with  ridges  at  the  sides  so  that  they 
may  be  watered  by  flooding.  This  gives  infinitely 
better  results  than  sprinkling.  Once  bulbs  are 
planted  mulch  the  surface  with  one  inch  to  an  inch 
and  a  half  of  good  fibrous  manure;  this  retards  the 
evaporation  and  tends  to  keep  the  under  soil  cool 
and  moist.  Bulbs  in  general  give  much  better  results 
when  no  surface  cultivation  is  resorted  to.  The 
mulch  referred  to  eliminates  the  necessity  of  culti- 
vation. It  prevents  the  ground  from  either  cracking, 
which  is  the  case  in  soils  of  a  heavy  nature,  or  from 
drying  out  in  those  of  a  lighter  character. 

HERBS,  SHRUBS  AND  TREES 

Plant  out  in  permanent  place  in  the  garden :  Calen- 
dula, cineraria,  columbine,  lobelia,  pansy,  pink,  pri- 
mula, petunia,  and  verbena. 

October  is  the  time  for  planting  evergreen  shrubs 
and  trees,  and  conifers  of  all  sorts  handle  well  at  this 
season.  The  soft  summer  growths  are  now  hardened 
up  and  the  operation  of  transplanting  may  be  done 
without  endangering  the  life  of  the  plant. 

The  mild  days,  with  the  cool  nights  and  mornings 
of  a  California  autumn,  cause  but  little  evaporation 
of  sap  from  the  foliage;  the  new  feeder  roots  put 
forth  at  once,  and  with  the  advent  of  winter  rains 
new  growths  of  stem  and  foliage  spring  forth  with 
surprising  rapidity.  The  moving  at  this  season 
gives  a  well  established  tree  or  shrub  in  a  short  space 
of  time. 

One  of  the  most  important  matters  for  immediate 
consideration  is  attention  to  roses.  The  fall  growths 
begin  to  push  out  during  this  month  and  it  is  time  to 
prune  out  all  the  thin  straggly  growth,  leaving  the 


194  THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

plump,  well-ripened  can'es  which  have  plenty  of 
healthy  eyes  of  the  previous  spring's  growth.  If  you 
are  pruning  dormant  wood  from  rose  bushes  at 
present  you  had  best  make  cuttings  from  it. 

All  the  best  roses  are  borne  on  the  new  quick 
growing  canes  which  spring  from  the  base  of  the 
plant  or  from  the  well  ripened  eyes  a  little  higher  up. 
Mulch  the  beds  with  two  or  three  inches  of  any  well 
rotted  manure  after  pruning.  Then  flood  with  water 
either  by  means  of  basins  around  the  plant  or  by 
trenches  along  the  sides.  Don't  sprinkle  your  plants 
overhead  and  expect  results.  Put  the  water  where 
it  belongs,  at  the  roots,  and  you  will  have  good  flow- 
ers if  you  did  not  force  them  to  grow  during  the  last 
two  months. 

SEASONABLE  SUGGESTIONS 

Many  common  garden  plants  may  easily  be  propa- 
gated in  a  box  of  sand  at  this  time  of  the  year. 
Among  these  are:  begonia,  coleus,  fuchsia,  helio- 
trope, marguerite,  etc.  If  left  sixty  days  later  it 
would  be  impossible  to  root  them  except  in  a  green- 
house. 

For  a  dry,  hot  place  plant  some  of  the  old-fash- 
ioned lavender.  It  will  grow  and  bloom  without 
water  during  our  California  summers  and  is  very 
useful  for  filling  sachets  or  placing  in  bureau  draw- 
ers, not  alone  for  the  perfume  but  to  keep  away 
moths  and  other  insects. 

Just  as  summer  is  closing  is  a  good  time  to  take 
note  of  trees,  shrubs  and  plants  that  have  withstood 
the  hard  conditions  of  summer.  Some  valuable  ob- 
ject lessons  may  be  found  in  every  community  that 
should  prove  a  guide  in  the  selection  of  next  season's 
planting  list.  It  is  not  sufficient  to  take  mental  note 
of  these  points — a  notebook  for  the  purpose  should 
be  carried.  October  is  a  good  time  for  lawn  making. 


IN   CALIFORNIA  195 

NOVEMBER 

Village  improvement  societies  are  now  on  the  alert 
regarding  time,  material  and  manner  of  planting 
school  grounds,  public  squares,  parks  and  streets. 
Now  is  a  good  time  for  all  preliminary  work,  for  soil 
is  easily  worked.  Even  municipalities,  as  well  as 
lesser  communities,  evince  unusual  activity  just  at 
this  season,  for  it  seems  that  with  the  coming  of  the 
rains  all  the  earth  must  be  gay — made  spick  and 
span — the  natural  season  for  festivity  in  California. 

SEED  SOWING 

The  following  seeds  should  be  sown  now  for  a 
good  crop  of  spring  flowers;  antirrhinum  or  snap- 
dragon, clarkia,  candytuft,  eschscholtzia,  or  Califor- 
nia poppy,  Shirley  poppy,  and  poppies  in  variety ;  ten 
weeks  stock,  larkspur,  leptosyne,  Gypsophila  elegans, 
pansy,  saponaria,  lychnis  or  viscaria,  Virginia  stock, 
centaurea  imperialis,  C.  Emperor  William,  calen- 
dula or  pot  marigold,  Prince  of  Orange  and  Meteor. 

It  is  a  very  good  time  to  sow  sweet  peas  now.  It 
brings  them  into  bloom  just  when  they  produce  the 
largest  and  best  flowers.  It  will  pay  to  spade  up  the 
ground  just  as  deeply  as  possible,  even  to  two  feet. 
Dig  in  a  liberal  supply  of  well-rotted  manure,  and 
work  the  soil  over  until  in  a  friable  condition  before 
sowing.  This  gives  not  only  a  good  depth  of  soil,  but 
that  good  drainage  which  is  so  necessary  to  the  suc- 
cessful growth  of  first  class  sweet  peas.  Keep  them 
free  from  weeds  and  the  surface  well  loosened  at  all 
times. 

BULBS 

At  no  other  season  of  the  year  may  so  many  bulbs 
be  planted  with  both  pleasure  and  profit  as  the  few 
weeks  from  now  until  New  Year's  Day.  This  is 


196  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

peculiarly  the  time  for  what  is  known  as  Dutch 
bulbs,  and  so  strongly  do  they  manifest  their  desire 
to  grow  that  they  will  put  forth  leaves  even  in  the 
dry  air  of  the  living-room  if  laid  upon  the  bare  table. 
Planted  in  almost  any  soil,  they  rapidly  spring  into 
life  and  soon  give  fine  heads  or  sprays  of  flowers. 

Anemone,  freesia,  early-flowering  gladiolus,  hya- 
cinth, iris,  ixia,  jonquil,  lily,  montbretia,  narcissus, 
ornithogalum,  ranunculus,  sparaxis  and  tulip  are 
some  of  the  most  popular  bulbs  to  plant  now,  and  all 
may  be  obtained  at  any  seed  store  and  also  of  some 
of  the  florists  and  nurserymen.  Do  not  plant  your 
ranunculus  or  anemone  upside  down ;  plant  ranuncu- 
lus with  the  claws  down  and  the  anemone  with  the 
smoothest  side  down.  This  is  more  easily  distin- 
guished after  they  have  been  soaked  two  hours. 

TIMELY  PROPAGATION 

At  this  time  you  should  take  cuttings  of  soft  wood 
and  tender  herbaceous  plants  such  as :  alternanthera, 
begonia,  coleus,  fuchsia,  heliotrope,  Impatiens  sul- 
tani,  marguerite,  etc.  Bottom  heat  is  not  needed 
though  better  results  can  be  obtained  with  such  a 
convenience. 

Get  a  box  of  clean  sharp  sand,  see  that  the  drain- 
age is  perfect — plenty  of  holes  in  the  bottom,  wet 
the  sand  down  thoroughly,  put  your  cuttings  in  a  slit 
made  with  a  knife  or  thin  paddle,  press  sand  around 
cuttings  and  wet  down.  Watch  them  closely  and 
don't  allow  them  to  dry. 

SEASONABLE  SUGGESTIONS 

Cut  back  pentstemons  this  month  to  within  eight 
inches  of  the  ground  and  they  will  come  up  stronger 
and  bloom  better  next  year. 

Violets  will  shortly  be  at  their  best,  and  the  time 


IN   CALIFORNIA  197 

to  fertilize  for  blooms  is  now.  Give  the  beds  a  liberal 
mulch  of  manure  and  see  that  they  get  plenty  of 
water  without  overdoing  it.  The  rains  should  relieve 
you  of  this  from  now  on. 

Nearly  all  hardy  perennial  flowering  plants  do 
well  if  put  in  at  this  season.  By  planting  now  they 
receive  the  benefit  of  the  winter  rains,  start  new  root 
action,  produce  an  abundance  of  bloom  in  spring,  and 
become  thoroughly  established,  thus  enabling  them 
to  better  withstand  the  heat  of  summer. 

We  are  now  at  the  secondary  period  of  bulb  plant- 
ing, the  most  important  operation  of  all  fall  garden 
work.  With  seasonable  weather  at  hand  this  work 
should  be  prosecuted  with  vigor  if  you  expect  to  ob- 
tain a  full  return  in  a  wealth  of  flowers  from  the 
spring  garden.  We  advise  the  thorough  preparation 
of  the  soil;  dig  the  ground  deeply  and  thoroughly, 
incorporating  a  plentiful  supply  of  well  rotted  man- 
ure. The  better  the  tilth  of  the  soil,  the  more  satis- 
factory will  be  the  results. 

THE  ROSE  GARDEN 

Now  is  the  time  to  attend  to  roses  if  heretofore 
neglected.  Where  the  bushes  have  been  dried  off 
during  the  summer,  for  winter  flowers  all  the  weak 
wood  should  be  cut  away  and  the  stronger  branches 
cut  back  heavily,  as  this  treatment  will  induce 
longer  stems  and  a  better  quality  of  flowers.  Such 
roses  should  then  be  watered  thoroughly. 

Should  the  bushes  be  expected  to  produce  a  crop 
of  bloom,  both  for  winter  and  spring,  it  will  be  found 
best  to  cut  away  only  the  weak  wood  entirely,  and 
the  stronger  growth  just  enough  to  balance  the  plant 
nicely,  and  then  prune  more  heavily  the  latter  part 
of  February.  Proper  treatment  necessarily  varies, 


198  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

according  to  the  harshness  of  winter  in  your  section 
of  the  state. 

Give  the  soil  a  good  dressing  of  well  rotted  manure 
and  spade  under  a  few  inches  only,  for  if  spaded  too 
deeply  the  roots  are  liable  to  be  injured,  and  the 
bushes  will  need  all  the  root  action  possible  to  de- 
velop first-class  flowers.  A  deeper  spading  may  be 
given  in  the  spring. 

DECEMBER 

There  is  no  time  like  the  present  to  give  the  garden 
a  general  overhauling,  to  attend  to  the  manuring 
and  spading  up  of  all  vacant  beds  and  borders. 
After  spading  leave  the  ground  in  a  rough  state, 
that  is,  don't  rake  it  down,  as  the  sun  and  air  will 
do  more  good,  and  it  will  leave  the  ground  in  a  more 
friable  condition  than  if  raked  down  too  smooth. 
Don't  be  afraid  to  enrich  abundantly,  as  the  ground 
will  be  in  better  condition  for  spring  planting. 

SEED  SOWING 

Now  is  the  time  to  plant  sweet  peas.  With  proper 
cultivation  there  is  nothing  that  yields  such  a  boun- 
teous harvest  as  sweet  peas,  and  a  sowing  of  sca- 
biosa  made  at  this  period  will  give  a  splendid  display 
of  bloom  in  early  spring. 

Seeds  of  all  garden  annuals  of  hardy  sorts  may 
safely  be  sown  now,  and  sweet  peas  are  always  on 
the  autumn  and  winter  planting  list.  Specific  sorts 
for  planting  in  the  general  garden  now  are  arctotis, 
dianthus,  phlox,  salvia  and  all  the  "old-fashioned" 
garden  inmates  known  to  eastern  gardens. 

Among  other  seeds  that  can  be  planted  during  De- 
cember, the  plants  of  which  will  give  you  a  fine  dis- 
play of  spring  blossoms,  are  sweet  alyssum,  calen- 
dula, winter  marigold,  California  poppy,  baby  blue- 


IN   CALIFORNIA  199 

eye,  candytuft,  of  which  Emperor  and  hyacinth- 
flowered  are  the  two  best  strains,  forget-me-not, 
larkspur,  in  the  annual  sorts,  mignonette,  pansy, 
salpiglossis,  snapdragon,  stock,  annual  calliopsis, 
foxglove,  and  verbena. 

BULBS 

If  you  would  have  a  display  of  blooms  from  bulb- 
ous plants,  now  is  the  time  to  act.  December  is  the 
last  call  for  bulbs.  If  space  is  limited  and  you  would 
like  to  make  use  of  the  ground  for  spring  blooms, 
all  dormant  bulbs,  dahlia,  for  example,  should  now 
be  taken  up  and  stored  in  a  cool,  dry  place  until 
March  or  April. 

The  anemone,  narcissus,  or  daffodil,  single  and 
double,  in  shades  of  orange,  yellow  and  white,  the 
Dutch  hyacinth,  tulip,  Spanish  iris,  early  and  late 
flowering  gladiolus,  lily,  Roman  hyacinth,  ixia,  ra- 
nunculus, sparaxis,  freesia,  ornithogalum  (Star  of 
Bethlehem),  cyclamen,  montbretia,  and  German  iris 
should  all  be  planted  immediately. 

GENERAL  PLANTING 

Now  is  the  time  to  plant  roses.  Planted  now  they 
will  be  forming  new  roots,  the  tops  will  be  dormant, 
but  with  pulsing  spring  the  buds  will  swell  and  soon 
make  a  growth  that  will  produce  blooms  to  fill  the 
garden  with  fragrance  and  beauty.  All  hardy  peren- 
nials, vines,  ornamental  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs, 
as  well  as  hardy  evergreen  shrubs  and  trees  and 
conifers,  may  be  planted. 

If  you  have  not  yet  planted  pansies,  prepare  a  bed 
of  rich,  light,  well-pulverized  soil  in  a  warm,  sunny 
place  so  that  you  may  have  pansy  blossoms  in  spring 
and  early  summer.  Now  is  a  good  time  to  stir  all 
soil  whether  for  immediate  use  or  otherwise.  Turn 


200  THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 

it  up  and  allow  it  to  get  thoroughly  aired  and  sunned ; 
after  a  time  level  it  down,  and  when  beaten  solid  by 
rains,  spade  up  deeply  again.  If  fertilizer  is  put  in 
at  the  first  spading,  a  well-mixed,  resourceful  soil 
will  be  the  result. 

SEASONABLE  SUGGESTIONS 

Chrysanthemums  may  be  taken  up  and  tempo- 
rarily planted  in  some  waste  piece  of  ground.  Then 
dig  up  the  ground,  enrich  with  well  rotted  manure, 
and  you  are  ready  to  make  a  planting. 

Do  not  be  snipping  off  the  ends  of  branches  on 
deciduous  shrubs  that  are  now  dormant  or  becoming 
so,  or  you  will  rob  the  plants  of  the  best  of  their 
spring's  crop  of  bloom;  they  should  be  pruned  only 
immediately  after  flowering.  Neither  prune  any 
plant  or  vine  that  is  very  tender,  for  the  frost  may 
do  it  for  you,  and  the  growth  so  injured  may  protect 
the  balance  of  the  plant  from  injury  or  death  during 
a  very  cold  spell. 

Now  is  the  time  when  all  clumps  of  cannas,  caladi- 
ums,  etc.,  should  be  taken  up  and  stored  in  a  cool, 
dry  place.  Late  March  or  early  April  will  be  early 
enough  for  replanting.  While  it  is  not  necessary  to 
remove  them  no  advantage  accrues  from  leaving 
them  in  the  soil,  and  if  old  masses  of  roots  are  left 
for  years,  they  do  not  thrive  as  well  as  if  divided. 
It  is  also  advisable,  if  their  room  is  more  desirable 
than  their  presence,  to  so  store  clumps  of  golden- 
rod,  golden  glow  and  other  vigorous,  free-rooting 
perennials. 

Do  not  fertilize  lawns.  The  great  disadvantage  of 
fertilizing  too  early  is  to  force  a  nice  green  growth 
at  the  time  we  are  expecting  our  cold  weather  and 
the  consequence  is  it  makes  a  spurt,  and  when  it 
should  look  nice  in  early  spring  it  stops  growing  and 


IN   CALIFORNIA 


201 


looks  brown.  It  has  been  forced  from  its  natural 
resting  time,  the  tender  growth  is  frozen,  and  it 
takes  its  rest  toward  spring  when  the  fertilizer  has 
exhausted  its  forcing  qualities.  February  and  March 
will  be  found  the  best  time  to  manure  lawns,  and 
from  that  time  there  will  be  a  luxuriant  growth  until 
winter. 


GLOSSARY 


The  following  list  of  scientific  names,  with  definitions,  embraces 
all  those  In  more  common  use.  The  definitions  are  not  all  literal  but 
the  meaning  as  applied  to  plants. 

A,  at  the  beginning  of  words  of  Greek  derivation,  commonly  signi- 
fies a  negative  :  as  aptera  =  wingless  ;  from  a,  without,  and  ptera,  wing ; 
acaulis,  a,  without,  caulls,  stem=stemless. 


acantha,  spine. 

brachy,  short. 

acaulis,  stemless. 

brevifolia,  short-leaved. 

acicularis,  sickleshaped. 

bulbifera,  bulb-bearing. 

aculeata,  spiny. 

acuminata,  taper-pointed. 

caespitosa,  many-headed. 

acuta,  sharp-pointed, 
adeno,  glandular. 

calycina,  cup-shaped, 
campanulata,  bell-shaped. 

afflne,  related. 

Canariensis,  Canary  Islands. 

alata,  winged. 

Candida,  white. 

alba,  white. 

canescens,  hoary. 

alblcans,  whitish, 
albo-lineata,  white»llned. 

Capensis,  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
capillaris,  hair-bearing. 

alnifolia,  alder-leaved. 

capitata,  headed. 

alpestre,  alpine,     rocky. 

cardinalls,  cardinal-red. 

amabiiis,  lovely. 

carnea,  flesh-colored. 

amoena,  pleasing. 

carpa,  fruit. 

amorpha,  formless. 

caudata,  tailed. 

ampla,  large. 

cerifera,  wax-bearing. 

angusta,  narrow, 
aptera,  wingless. 

chlorophylla,  green-leaved. 
'  chrysantha,  yellow  flowered. 

aquatica,  water-loving. 

clliaris,  hair-fringed. 

aquifolla,  holly-leaved, 
arborescens,  tree-like. 

clliata,  silky-haired, 
clnerea,  ash-colored. 

arenaria,  sand-loving. 

circinata,  rolled  upwards. 

argentea,  silvery. 

cltrina,  lemon-yellow. 

argyrea,  silvery. 
arista  ta,  awned.    bearded. 

citrlodora,  lemon-scented, 
clavatus,  club-shaped. 

armata,  armed. 

coccifera,  berry-bearing. 

articulata,  jointed. 

coccinea,  scarlet. 

aspera,  rough. 

coerulea,  blue. 

Atlantlca,  Atlantic. 

colllna,  hill. 

atrosanguinea,  dark-red. 

communls,  common. 

atrovirens,  dark-green. 

concolor,  one-color. 

attenuata,  thin. 

conferta,  dense. 

aurantiaca,  orange-colored. 

congesta,  close-headed. 

aurea,  golden. 

contorta,  twisted. 

auriculata,  eared. 

cordata,  heart-shaped. 

aurita,  eared. 

corlacea,  leathery. 

australis,  southern. 

cornlgera,  horn-bearing. 

azurea,  blue. 

cornuta,  horned. 

coronata,  crowned. 

baccata,  berry-like. 

crassifolia,  thick-leaved. 

baclllarls,  rod-like. 

crenata,  scallop-edged. 

barbata,  barbed. 

cretacea,  chalked. 

bella,  charming. 

Cretan,  Island  of  Crete. 

blcolor,  two-colored. 

Cretlca,  Island  of  Crete. 

blflda,  two-cleft. 

crlspa,  curled. 

blflora,  two-flowered. 

crlstata,  crested. 

blfurcata,  two-forked. 

cucullata,  hooded. 

blplnnata,  twice-pinnate. 

cuneata,  wedge-shaped. 

THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 


203 


cupressina,  cypress-like, 
cyanea,  blue. 

dealbata,  powdery. 

deca-,  ten. 

decandra,  ten-stemmed. 

decipiens,  deceiving. 

decora,  comely. 

decurrens,  prolonged  on  stem. 

decussata,  opposing  pairs. 

def  lexa,  bending. 

demissa,  low. 

denticulata,  toothed. 

dependens,  hanging. 

digitata,  fingered. 

discolor,  various-colored. 

disticha,  two-ranked. 

divaricata,  straggling. 

dulcis,  sweet. 

dumosa,  bushy. 

eburnea,  ivory-like, 
echlnata,  hedge-hog-like, 
edulis,  edible, 
elata,  tall, 
elongata.  trailing, 
emarginata,  notched  at  tip. 
ericoides,  heath-like, 
eriocarpa,  wooly-fruited. 
esculenta.  edible, 
exaltata,  high, 
excelsa,  tall, 
eximea,  excellent. 

falcata,  sickle-shaped. 

farinosa,  mealy. 

fasciculata,  close-clustered. 

fastigiata,  parallel  and  upright. 

ferox,  fierce. 

ferruginea,  rusty. 

ficifolia,  fig-leaved. 

filamentosa,  thready. 

filtfera,  thread-bearing. 

flmbriata,  fringed. 

flabella,  fan-shaped. 

flagella,  whip-shaped. 

flammea.  flery. 

flava,  yellow. 

flexuosa,  waved  ziz-zaggly. 

flore-plena,  double-flowered. 

florlbunda,  free-flowering. 

florida,  florid. 

foetida,  stinking. 

folia,  foliage. 

foliosa,  leafy. 

formosa,  beautiful. 

fragrans,  fragrant. 

frigida,  stiff,    frosty. 

fruticosa,  shrubby. 

fulgens,  glowing,     brilliant. 

funebris,  funereal,     dismal. 

genus,  rank  above  species, 
gigas,  giant. 
glabra.  smooth, 
gladlata,  sword-like. 


glauca,  milky-white, 
glutinosa,  sticky, 
gracile,  slender, 
gracillima,  graceful, 
graminea,  grass-like, 
grandis,  splendid,      great, 
graveolens,  strong-smelling, 
guttata,  spotted. 

hastata,  spear-shaped. 

hederacea,  ivy-like. 

hepta,  seven. 

herbacea,  herb-like,     herbaceov 

heterophylla,  variable-leaved. 

hexa,  six. 

hirsuta,  hairy. 

hirta,  hairy. 

hispida,  hairy. 

hortensis,  garden. 

humilis,  dwarf. 

hystrix,  bristly. 

-ifera,  bearing, 
ignea,  fiery, 
ilicifolia,  holly-leaved, 
imbricata,  overlapping. 
Incisa,  deeply-cut. 
Indica,  Indian, 
indigenous,  native, 
indivisa,  undivided,     simple, 
inermis,  unarmed, 
integrifolia,  entire-leaved. 

juncea,  rush-like. 

labiata,  lipped, 
laciniata,  deeply-cut, 
lacta,  milky. 

laevigata,  smooth-stemmed. 
lanata,  wooly. 
lanceolata,  lance-shaped, 
lasiocarpa,  wooly-fruited. 
latifolia,  broad-leaved, 
laurifolia,  laurel-leaved, 
laxa,  loose. 

leucorrhiza,  white-rooted, 
leucoxylon,  white-wooded, 
lignosus,  woody, 
linearis,  narrow-leaved, 
lineata,  lined, 
lingua,  tongued. 
linifolia,  flax-leaved, 
lobata,  lobed. 
longifolia,  long-leaved, 
longipes,  long-stalked, 
lophanta,  crested, 
luclda,  shiny, 
lunata,  crescent-shaped. 
Lusitanica,  Portugal. 

macro,  large. 

macrophylla,  large-leaved, 
maculata,  spotted, 
majalis,  May. 
major,  greater, 
majus,  large, 
marmora,  marbled. 


204 


THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 


maxima,  largest. 

media,  middle. 

mega,  large. 

megarhiza,  large-rooted. 

melan,  black. 

micro,  small. 

microphylla,  small-leaved. 

miniata,  vermillion. 

minor,  less. 

mlrabilis,  wonderful. 

mltis,  small. 

molle,  soft. 

mollissima,  soft. 

mono-,  one. 

monophylla,  one-leaved. 

montana.  mountain. 

moschata,  musky. 

multl-,  many. 

multiflora,  many-flowered. 

muricata,  short,  hard  pointed. 

mutabilis,  changeable. 

myrio,  many. 

myriophylla,  many-leaves. 

myrtifolia,  myrtle-leaved. 

nana,  dwarf, 
nemorale,  wood, 
neriifolia,  oleander-leaved, 
nervata,  veined, 
nigra,  black, 
nitida,  shining, 
nivea,  snowy, 
nodiflora,  knot-flowered, 
nodosa,  knotty,     knobby, 
nucifera,  nut-bearing, 
nuda,  naked, 
nutans,  nodding. 

ob-,  signifies  inversion. 

obcordata,  heart-shaped  apex. 

obovata,  broad  end  outward. 

obtusa,  blunt 

occidentalis,  western. 

ocellata,  eyed. 

ochra-leuca,  yellowish-white. 

octo-,  eight. 

odorata,  sweet-scented. 

-oides,  like,     similar. 

orlentalis,  eastern. 

ornata,    adorned. 

ovata,  egg-shaped. 

oxygona,  sharp-angled. 

-oxylon,  wood. 

oxypetala,  sharp-petalled. 

pallida,  pale, 
palustre,  marsh, 
paniculata,  panicled. 
papyrlfera,  paper-bearing, 
parviflora,  small-flowered, 
patens,  spreading. 
paucltlora,  few-flowered, 
pectinata,  comb-like, 
pedata,  bird-footed, 
peltata,  stem  in  center, 
pendula,  drooping. 


penta,  five. 

pentaphylla.  flve-leaved. 
Persica,  Persia, 
phylla,  leaf, 
picta,  painted, 
pinnata,  divided, 
platyphylla.  broad-leaved, 
plumosa.  feathery, 
podophylla,  foot-leaved, 
poly-,  many. 

polypodium,  many-footed, 
populifolia,  poplar-leaved, 
primullna,  primrose-yellow, 
princeps,  princely, 
procumbens,  trailing, 
prulnata,  frosted, 
pseudo,  false,     like, 
pubescens,  downy, 
pudica,  chaste. 

pugiouiformis,  dagger-shaped, 
pulchella,  pretty, 
pulchra,  beautiful, 
pulverulenta,  powdery, 
pumila,  small, 
punlcea,  reddish, 
pusilla,  diminutive, 
pygmea,  dwarf. 

quadrl-,  four, 
quinata,  in  fives, 
quinquifolia,  flve-lobed. 

racemosa,  racemed. 
radiata,  radiating, 
radicans,  rooting, 
ramosa,  branched, 
ramosissima,  much-branched, 
reclinata,  curved  downwards, 
reniforme,  kidney-shaped, 
repens,  creeping, 
reticulata,  netted, 
revoluta,  rolled  back, 
rhododendron,  rose-tree, 
rhombifolia,  diamond-leaved, 
ringens,  gaping  open, 
riparia,  river-bank, 
rosea,  rosy, 
rostrata.  beaked, 
rotundifolia,  round-leaved, 
rubens,  reddish, 
rubra,  red. 
rugosa,  wrinkled. 

salicifolia,  willow-leaved, 
sanguinea,  blood-colored, 
sarmentosa.  flexible-twiggy, 
sativa.  cultivated, 
saxitile,  rock, 
scabra,  rough, 
scandens,  climbing, 
scoparia.  broom-like, 
semi-,  half. 

semper,  ever.      always, 
semper-aurea,  ever-golden, 
eemperflorens,  ever-flowering, 
sempervirens,  evergreen. 


IN  CALIFORNIA  205 

senile,  white-haired.  triangulare,  three-angled. 

serotlna,  late.  tricolor,  three-colored. 

serrata,  saw-leaved.  trlfida,  three-cleft. 

serrulata,  saw-leaved.  trlflora,  three-flowered. 

sessile,  stemless.  trlloba,  three-lobed. 

siliqua,  bearing  long  pods.  truncata,  square-cut  tip. 

Slnensis,  Chinese. 

sparsa,  few.  ulmlfolia,  elm-leaved. 

species,  rank  below  genus.  umbraculifera,  umbrella-bearing. 

speciosa,  showy.  undulata.  wavy. 

spectabilis,  showy.  uni-,  one. 

spicata,  spiked.  uniflora,  one-flowered. 

spiralis,  spiral.  urticlfolla,  nettle-leaved. 

stellata,  star-like. 

strlata,  striped.  variety,  rank  below  species. 

stricta,  upright.  velutina,  velvety. 

suaveolens,  sweet-scented.  venosa.  veined. 

subulata,  awl-shaped.  ventrlcosa,  inflated. 

sulphurea,  sulphur-yellow.  venusta,  lovely. 

sylvatica,  of  woods.  vera,  true. 

sylvestris,  of  woods.  verslcolor,  various-colored. 

verticillata,  whorled. 

tenella,  delicate,     small.  vesca,  edible, 

tenuifolia,  narrow-leaved.  vestita,  clothed, 

tenuis,    slender.  viminea,  slender-twiggy, 

tetra-,  four.  violacea,  violet, 

tetrandra,  four-stemmed.  virens,  green, 

tigrinum,  striped.  viridiflora,  green-flowered, 

tlnctoria,  dyer's.  viscosa,  clammy, 

tomentosa,  downy.  vitella,  yellowish, 

torulosa,  twisted.  vittata,  striped, 

toxica,  poison.  vivipara,  plant-bearing, 

toxifera,  poison-bearing.  volubilis,  twining, 

tri,-  three.  vulgaris,  common. 


INDEX 


Aberla    51 

Acacia    38,  39,  54 

Achras  52 

Akebia    58 

Albizzia    39,  48 

Althea    54,56 

Ampelopsls    62 

Annuals,   general 71 

native    72,  73 

exotic  and  garden 74,  78 

Anona    51 

Antlgonon    62 

Ants 153,  155,  158 

Aphis    155,  156,  160 

Aquariums     92 

Araucarla    42 

Arbor    (lllus.)     9 

Arbor-vitae    42,  43 

Arlstolochla    62 

Ash     48,54,55 

Asparagus   58 

pink    48 

Avocado     51 

Backgrounds  for  gardens 21 

Bacteria  for  clover 29 

Bamboo     49,  50 

Barberry    56 

Beaumontla 58 

Bedding  Plants 190 

Beefwood    39,  53 

Begonias    106 

Bermuda  Grass 33 

Big  Tree   40 

Bignonia    58 

Blue  Grass    28 

Borders,  house 84 

Bottle  Brush 54,  55 

Bougalnvillea    58 

Box  Elder 48 

Bridal   Wreath 56 

Broussonetla 48 

Bulbs,    general 109 

Dutch  or  Holland 120,  121  • 

fertilizers  for 121, 122 

see  garden  calendar 161 

Bunya-bunya     42 

Cactus    68,69 

Calendar,    garden 161-201 

Canna    80 

Cape  Chestnut 39 

Carlssa    51 

Carnations    81,  83, 167, 181 

Carob  Tree 39,  55 

Casimlroa    51 

Casuarina 39,  53 

Caterpillars     168 


Cedar,    true 43,  54 

incense    41,  46 

white    43 

red    43,  54,  55 

Port  Orford    45 

Japan    46,  54 

Ceratonla   39,  55 

Cherimoya 51 

Chestnut,   true 48 

cape    39 

Chrysanthemum    143 

propagation 143,  172, 173 

planting 146,  181 

training 146 

staking    147 

fertilizing    148 

disbudding     148 

kinds  of  buds 149 

pot  culture 150 

sorts  to  grow 151 

history 151 

Clover,  for  lawns 27,  29 

Coffee  Tree 54 

Conifers 39-46 

Cotoneaster 56 

Cottonwood 48,  53,  55 

Cryptomerla    46 

Custard   Apple 51 

Cypress    44,  45,  55 

Cytlsus    55 

Dahlias    112, 114 

Deciduous  Trees 47,  48, 169 

Deutzia    56 

Dogwood    56 

Dollchos    59 

Dracena 49 

Elm  48 

Eucalyptus  39,  52-54 

hardy  52,  53 

Eugenia  51 

Evergreen  Trees  38-47 

Evonymus,  shrubby  54 

climbing    59 

Peijoa    52 

Fences,  hedges,  walls 18 

Ferns,   house 101, 104 

Fertilizers,  general    (lllus.)...   25 

lawn     24,25,34,165 

for  roses   134, 135 

mixing   25 

Incompatibility   of 25 

Flcus  macrophylla  39 

pumlla  (repens)    59 

Flowers,  cut 108 

Fog-fruit   30 


THE  GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 


207 


Fuchsia     79,  80 

Garden   Calendar 161-201 

Gardening,    landscape 11 

styles  of 11 

Garden  Seat  (illus.) 9 

Gardens,  formal 19 

wild     67,  68,  83,  84 

cactus   68,  69 

wall     69,  70 

rose 123, 197 

Genista    55 

Geraniums    79,  84 

Ginkgo    41,  48 

Gladioli     117-119 

Gophers   159 

Gourds 63 

Grading,  from  house 18 

Grapes,  evergreen 62 

Green    Fly 155-157,  160 

Grevillea  robusta 39 

Guava    52 

Hackberry   48 

Hanging  Baskets 99, 101 

Hedges,   walls,  fences 18 

Hippeastrums    110,  114 

Honeysuckle    60 

Hopvlne 63 

House  Plants 95, 101,  108 

potting    96,  97 

ferns   101,  104 

palms 104 

Hydrangea    56 

Iris,  general 119, 120 

waterside    94 

Ivies    59 

Jacaranda   39 

Jasmine  60 

Juniper    42,  46,  54 

Kai  Apple 51 

Kentucky  Blue  Grass 28 

Larkspur   80,  81 

Lawns,   general 23,  24, 176 

fertilizers  for 24,  25,  34,  169 

care    of 27 

seed  for 27 

grasses  for 28 

clover    29 

lippia    30,  32 

weeds   in 26,27,33 

witch  grass 33 

devil    grass 
Bermuda   grass 

dandelions  34 

chickweed    34 

sorrel   34 

lime  for 34 

wood  ashes   84 

fertilizing    165, 169, 176 

soils  for 21,22 

planting  season 24 


watering    27 

mowing,  when  . .' 28 

Leptospermum 55 

Libocedrus    41,  46 

Ligustrum   39 

Lilac    56 

Lilies,  garden 115, 116 

water   88,90 

Lippia 30-32 

Locust  Tree 53,  55 

Loquat 52 

Lotus,  Egyptian 91 

Maidenhair    Tree 41,  48 

Mango    51 

Maples   48,  54,  55 

Mesquite    54 

Mildew,   on   Rose 127,128,159 

Mock  Orange 56 

Monkey  Puzzle 42 

More  ton  Bay  Fig 39 

Mulberry,   true 54 

paper    48 

Myoporum 54 

Nerium    .  . 


..    39 
..    39 


Oak,  cork 

live 39 

caterpillars  on 158 

Old-fashioned    Flowers 78 

Oleander    39 

Osage  Orange 54 

Palms    14,  48,  49,  54 

house    104 

misuse    of 12 

Palo  Verde 54 

Parasol  Tree 48 

Passion  vine 60 

Peas,   sweet 75,  76 

Pecan ;   43 

Pelargoniums    79 

Pepper  Tree 39 

Perennials,    herbaceous 76-78 

division  of 177 

Pergola    (illus.) 20 

Persea    51 

Pests  and  Diseases 153 

Philadelphus 56 

Phlox,  perennial 78,  79 

Pine    40,  41,  42,  45,  55 

Pittosporum    39 

Plane   Tree 48,  54 

Planning,    general 7, 18 

what  to  avoid 8 

what  to  grow 10 

open  lawns 12 

massed   planting 14 

avoid  straight  lines 17 

utility    plats 19 

back    yards 20 

roads  and  paths 22 

Plans    (illus.)    13,15,  16 

Planting    Calendar 161,  201 

Plant  Lice 155-157 


208 


THE   GARDEN   BEAUTIFUL 


Plants  for  alkali 81       Solanum   61 

for  sandy  soils 81       Sollya   61 

Platanus    48       Spindle  Tree 54 

Plum,  purple-leaved 54       Splrea 56 

Podocarpus    46       Spruce    40 

Poinsettia    54       Squirrels,    ground 159 

Pomegranate 54       St.  John's  Bread 39,  55 

Ponds    87       Sterculla    39,  48 

Poplars 48,  53-55       Sweet  Shrub 56 

Poppies,    true 74,  75       Sycamore    48,  54 

Privet    39, 54       Syringa    56 

Propagation  by  cuttings 171 

by  division 172       Tacsonia 61 

timely    196       Tamarisk    54,  55 

Terrace  Covers 31 

Quercus  agrlfolia 39       Thuya    42,  43,  54 

suber    39       Trachycarpus    49 

Quince,  flowering 56       Tree  of  Heaven 54,  55 

Trees,  general 35 

Rats   158  splitting   forks 56 

Red   Spider 157,  158,  160  measuring   (illus.) 36 

Redwood 40  planting    37,  168,  169 

Rockeries,    building 65  for  streets 37,  38 

where  to  build 66,  67  evergreen    38-40, 168 

Roses,  garden   123  coniferous 40-46,  1 98 

gardens 123  deciduous     47,  48, 169 

types   of 123,  124  ornamental   fruit 21,  50,  51 

mildew   on 127, 128,  159  for  deserts 53 

summer    treatment 125-127  for  alkaline  soils 54,  55 

winter  treatment 127  see  garden  calendar 161-201 

soils  for 125  citrus  50 

propagation  of 128  pruning   (illus.) 55 

cuttings   of 129       Tulip  Tree 48 

budding   130 

budding   (illus.) 131       Umbrella  Tree 48,  53 

from  seeds 132 

pruning    133,  175,  197       Victoria   90 

fertilizers  for 134, 175, 198       Vines,  deciduous 62,  63 

lists  of . .  > 136-141  evergreen    58-62 

climbing   139-141  misuse  of 64 

history    of 141-142  gourds,  squashes,  etc 63 

red  spider  on 160  pruning    174,  175 

planting    199  on  buildings 57 

heat-resistant    63 

Sapodllla   52       Virginia    Creeper 63 

Sapota   51,  52       Vitis    62 

Scale    Insects 157,  158 

Schinus   molle 39       Walnut   54 

Seed  Sowing 161       Water  Gardens,  general 85 

Sequoia    40       Water    Lilies 88,  90 

Shrubs,    fruiting 51,  52  soils  for 91 

for  deserts 54  pests    93,  94 

deciduous    55,  56       Weigelia   56 

see  garden  calendar 161       Willow 53,  55 

pruning    174       Wire  Vine 60 

evergreen 193       Wistaria 63 

spring-flowering    56       Worms,  in  pots 156 

Silk  Oak 39  cut-worms     156-157 

Slugs  and  Snails 158 

Snowball    56       Yew    46,  47 

Snowberry 56 

Solandra    61       Zapote    52 


3917  'i., 


from  which  it  was  borrowed. 


UC  SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 

A     001  129984     9 


JFORMUL 


Univ» 
So 
L 


